Spring 2014 Review

Of the seasons offerings there were some collections that were the true standouts. Though they seemed to have come primarily from the usual suspects including most noteably Cavalli, Ackerman and Altuzarra. Those designers included, here are some of our favorite looks from the Spring 2014 runways in order of apperance:

Nicole Miller

Maybe I am a bit biased as Ms. Miller is a fellow alumni of the Rhode Island School of Design but probably not, this collection was just really well edited. Editing is key when you are dealing with Prints and Miller is one of few designers known for her use of them. Personally I love prints because they do so much of the work  for you (of looking clever and cool) especially if they are well chosen and deliberately cut, as they are here. Not to mention that I am a undying fan of stripes mixed with florals. Here Miller shows and inspired mix of prints and thoughtfully added embellishments which result in pieces that really stand out. The styling of this collection was great also. I love the first dress here and put it as one of my top 5 favorite looks of the season as it is not only timeless but charming as hell.

Nicole Milller

Altuzarra

Gorgeous metallic and easy yet sexy silhouettes made this collection feel fresh and modern without the usual uptight notions typically associated with modern. It’s like a genus cross between the beachy washed linens look we are seeing all over the home furnishings market crossed with a revamped 1990’s power suit. I love this, so cool. So so cool.

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Jenny Packham

Anyone familiar with our blog knows that I am a die hard classic Hollywood fan. I can never resist a collection that takes it’s inspiration from that era of screen goddesses and handsome smart asses Sigh…  This collection had a decidedly Katherine Hepburn in The Philadelphia Story vibe going on and I think it’s just lovely. It’s soft and floaty and feminine but with the Hepburn styling gives a nod to a gal with guts.

Packham

Michael Kors

The quintessential American Sportswear king. Every collection looks like it’s designed for a weekend in the Hamptons. This season he nailed it again with effortless chic topped with sunglasses on her head and and a wink in her eye. As with Packham I love the nod to the 1940’s here with the exaggerated shoulder on the jacket and the inspired love for the housedress… What can I say really, he just knows his customer so well and it shows season after season.

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Marchesa

This design team is perhaps known best for their Bridal collection or maybe for the starlets who wear their gowns on the red carpet. Their designs are at once feminine and intriguing. Thier shows are always fun to see because they constantly send out new silhouettes and new visions while maintaining their distinct point of view. This group was very eclectic and included elements of fringe, lace, beading, tulle you name it. My favorite looks are this one with the bohemian fringe skirt and the stunning gothic floral dress with the wrapped ribbons. So pretty yet powerful.

Marchesa

Temperly London

Temperly London holds a soft spot in my heart for always delivering classic, ladylike charm with a decidedly English sensibility. I am always reminded of Audrey Hepburn when I view their collections.  It seems they should be the go to designer for Kate Middleton as they epitomize the classic English lady while staying inspired and current. This collection was more bold than those of late, almost seeming to channel Roberto Cavalli with the print choices while staying true in the silhouette to the lady that they design for.

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Burberry

Now these two looks may not seem to warrant a feature in my best of for Spring 2014 due to the simplicity of the design, but the basic top and loud skirt combo is a go to look personally and I just had to throw them in here. I’m actually not a fan of the graphic print on the lace but I can appreciate the irony of putting a bold black and white on what is traditionally a soft fabric. I do love irony…

Burerry

Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli is the frick to my obsession with Dolce and Gabbana‘s frack. I love Cavalli for all that he is, a wild print obsessed suit designing madman who has perfected his vision to the point where you either love him or hate him. I love him. I have yet to see a collection from this man that has let me down. Though this collection was not all about his beloved prints, it had more of a focus on texture. He showed a group of awesome sheer knit dresses that could be rock and roll or park avenue chic depending on the styling.  There were also gorgeous beaded slip dresses that were slung with luxe fur stoles in a way that looked like an out the door afterthought. His woman always looks like she doesn’t have to try to be the most stunning in the room – she just can’t help but be. Perfection!

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Ann Demeulemeester

As I’m sure you can tell by now I am a fan of the designers who take their inspiration from a sort of   “muse mash up”. I can’t resist the provocative results of a dreamlike clash of seemingly random ideas. This is illustrated perfectly in the following collection. While the styling is very Season of the Witch – the look is really more of an English Redcoat Soldier ( a la Adam Ant ) meets Art Neuveau obsessed art school undergrad. Demeulemeester is often provocative like this in her inspiration and I hope to see more and more of her specific point of view.

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Haider Ackermann

I have become obsessed with this designer in the last few seasons and cannot get enough. He has a cool factor that results from the impeccable tailoring, modern fabrics, crazy outside the box silhouettes – it goes on and on. This designer is leading the way as far as wearable forward fashion. Let me say that again – WEARABLE forward fashion. Where unlike his conceptual counterparts who put the concept before all else – Ackerman never fails to find the perfect balance between concept and content which inevitably results in harmoniously forward fashion. He is my pick for designer to watch.

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Valentino

 The new designers at Valentino have a very different woman in mind when they are designing. She’s not the sexy and sophisticated lady in red for whom Garavani was designing. Instead she is mostly outfitted in an assortment of highly embellished floor length dresses which typically feature high collars, bound waistlines and long narrow sleeves. The silhouette has gone from sleek and sexy to demure and fitted, it’s not bad, just….different. The name Valentino no longer conjures images of a starlet in Red on the Red Carpet whose gown sweeps up to an oversize bow or seduces with a  plunging back. The new Valentino woman looks more of a mysterious foreign girl from a bygone era. In this past collection she seems to be a mix of Russian and Peruvian (?) I guess her secret is still safe, but for certain she wears meticulously crafted garments that are truly exceptional.

Valentino

Prada

This has Hipster written all over it ( note the kitten head coat ) but that’s in line with fashion’s favorite muse…the street. This reminds me of the infamous grunge collection from Marc Jacobs in the early 90’s. He was crucified for putting floral granny maxi’s and baby dolls with doc martins and flannels. Here, Muccia has put bright wrapping paper print coats with crochet stockings and 60’s sunglasses granny style. High fashion often steals from the hip and this time the hip are likely those bespeckled girls who crochet by day and DJ by night. The self proclaimed nerds are now the new It girl, at least at the house of Prada.

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Zadig & Voltaire

If you cross hipster and Rock you get these guys. I like this designer because the clothes are affordable – by runway standards at least- and they transition easily and effortlessly from the runway to the street. Most of what they present could easily find a functional role in just about any modern girls wardrobe. Good investment pieces that don’t require a freakin’ loan, Hoo Ray!

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Belstaff

If you’ve got unlimited resources and you want a beautiful, cool as hell Leather jacket or pants than here’s the designer for you.  Season after season they consistently roll out amazingly crafted items. They have created a ubercool world of impossibly chic moto style that I’m sure most of us wish we could live in. Just check out the link to their site above to see what I mean.

Belstaff

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