Menswear Spring 2015 Review

This season offered up mostly the usual fashiony mix: the crazy and totally ridiculous, the tried and true, the daring newcomers, the avant-garde and the rockers. Within fashion in general the menswear designers have a much harder go of it because frankly most men aren’t interested in most of what’s on the runway. Even the self proclaimed stylish man will usually stick with his specific look, be it a suit and tie gent, a jeans and tee type – what have you… This is why as a retailer we tend to lean toward more wearable real life clothes that function and aren’t too costumey. Although every now and then even that stable stylish fellow wants something flashy – a statement item, so we keep a look out for that too!  With that in mind, here are the picks from the runways of Spring 2015.

Diesel – Black Gold

 Not quite the rocker not quite the hipster. Diesel has come back in the last few years and has really found it’s customer. The clothes are interesting, wearable and unique. They really fill a hole in the market for the man who wants to dress cool and do it quietly. Plus a casual tuxedo pant is always welcome.

Diesel Black Gold

Costume National

I love that somehow these suits look both painfully 1970’s pimp and/or Mick Jagger while also looking super suave for that guy you know who charms all the ladies with his David Addison crooked smile. These suits are for the Motown loving, sly fox,  cool cat that the world needs more of. That purple suit is just killing me with cockiness – in a good way.

Costume national

Miharayasuhiro

This I had to include because I am nostalgic and all I see here is Duckie from Pretty in Pink who is probably the most originally styled character in a movie ever. If you don’t get this reference then immediately stop reading this and go watch the movie.

If you are still reading, then I love the distress on this blazer. Its effin awesome.

Miharayasuhiro

Lanvin

The styling is a problem – the neck scarves are a bit alienating I’d say. But the clothes fit so well, the shoes are great – I love the messenger bag (really the only bag I see as reasonable for stylish men to carry as a  “man purse”). The pants are narrow without being tight, the jackets are slim without sacrificing ease – these clothes look comfortable right? The first rule of cool – be (or at least look) comfortable.

Lanvain

St Laurent

So here’s where the pants are too tight- they look uncomfortable (camel toe) so that’s right out. What I love here and cannot get enough of is the idea of seeing these embroidered jackets in person and being blown away. There is no question that these jackets are amazing quality and fit perfectly – this is St Laurent after all. To have any one of these would be like the signature item in the rock god wardrobe and that is just freaking irresistible. My eyes literally have stars in them looking at these. Rock and F IN Roll man.

Saint Laurent

Dolce and Gabanna

Dolce and Gabanna menswear is hit and miss for me. The same aesthetic that kills it for the women’s wear , The lusty Sicilian siren – often times is just cheesy when interpreted for men. Though the last few showings have felt less like Versace and more like La Dolce Vita and I am glad for it. The bullfighter was undoubtedly the inspiration here and as always with Dolce, they show tons of looks.  Many just to support the theme, yet amongst the frivolity were some solid numbers. For example, these first two suits are really refreshing. The vest is classic looking paired with the 3/4 jacket and the polka dot in grey and black seems very sophisticated despite the whimsy of the dots. The dashing fellow in the 3rd shot is wearing a great alternative to the black tie basic black and finally the jacquard slippers are just so cocky they are hard to deny. I love the world these two designers have created and the fun that they have decorating it is apparent in their shows.

D & G

Valentino

The Valentino men’s seems like a cross between Prada and Burberry. It’s playful like Prada yet traditionally cut like Burberry. I like this cross because often times the look of the Prada outfit is quirky and cool – but the cut of the garments can be alienating. Where as Burberry has got the fit that most anyone can wear but they typically don’t get as playful. So here is a great mix. The plaids are almost cheeky and the floral embroidered suit is fun. I hate “fun” as an adjective but really… I can see a cool cat wearing those tulip pants with a beater and a black cardigan. Any of these suits can be dressed down in this way and look fantastic.

Valentino

Haider Ackerman

I have become an official fan. In my last men’s review I pointed out how Ackerman ‘s show looked like an 80’s reinterpretation. I belive I mentioned “Men Without Hats” Well here again I see a total 80’s reference via the slouchy blazers, the pastel satins, the pegged pants and dropped trousers- it’s all here and it’s awesome. Ackerman does something magical when he interprets an era. He finds the best bits and exploits the hell out of them while somehow making it look totally easy. This all looks like he just put pen to paper and it flowed like a poem. The silks, the colors, the layers, it’s all so lovely. In fact it’s enviable for the women – I would steal all of these clothes the second my man turned his back. And I stand behind my prediction from that last post. This is the new hipster look.

Haider Ackerman

Belstaff

First this model is not doing these clothes any favors.

 Belstaff are all about classic, expertly crafted, functional biker clothes which are not necessarily made for bikers. They never let me down and if you have some money to drop on a piece you will wear and keep forever then they are your go to designer. They have that leather jacket you have always wanted, the great sweater, the everyday pant. Stellar and reliable.

Belstaff 1

John Varvatos

The king.

If rock and roll prayed for a designer then Varvatos would be it’s answer. These clothes are for the self respected rocker or the man who just knows what it feels like to be admired for his confidence and style. I don’t really feel that there is anything to say other than : more please.

J varvatos

Thank you so much for stopping by! We’ll see you for couture 2014…

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