Couture 2015

Here we are again between Pre Fall and the blitzkrieg that is Fall. The notorious Couture shows in all their decadent glory. Not much I can say that I haven’t said before so lets just jump right on in.

Elie Saab

Couture is at the core of Elie Saab. The collection had many beautiful offerings worthy of adoration but this one stood out. The choice of the soft dove gray made it feel antique without looking like a doily. It is sexy and demure at the same time somehow, which is so intriguing. I love the handkerchief drape from the waist, how it carries the top down through the gown. It’s so delicate that it’s angelic. Lovely.

Elie Saab

Alexis Mabille

Okay, so yes the first dress is a bit Beauty Pageant with the sequins and the sweetheart neckline but hear me out. That gather in the center at the waist is very dynamic, it takes the taste level and the elegance to where the inventor of sequin probably intended. Get that lady on the phone ’cause she needs to see this. The second dress is Madame Butterfly dramatic. I love the fit and flare of the skirt with the almost casual drape of the neckline. I do wish the collar was a bit more narrow but it’s couture! They can fix that for you Madame! The sleeves are all drama and the colors are head turners. I’m sure the fashion police would tear this to shreds but I cannot resist the impact of those bright flowers and that huge scarlet lined sleeve.

Alexis Mabille

Ulyana Sergeenko

This is so – dare I say it? FUN. I usually hate when people use “Fun” as a verb but I am stuck here. These are just costume enough to be kitschy, and just real enough to be remarkable. I see Dita Von Tease.

 These are modern day Costume, albeit in the way that fashion is referred to historically as costume. They may not be modern but they are definitely charming and whimsical and yes, fun. All things that are absolutely appropriate for the genre of Couture.

Ulyana Sergeenko

Schiaparelli

 The collection as a whole harkens back to the days when continental women of means would go to their (design) house of choice to have their wardrobe created for the season. Can you image being able to go your favorite designer to have your measurements taken, then asked what your plans were for the season??

Oh a weekend at a friend’s château in the south of France followed by a month at the Paris apartment. A 2 week tour of Egyptian ruins, then a quick jaunt over to the Swiss Alps to visit my aunt at her Chalet… la de dah.

This feels like it has been designed for a charming, quirky yet cosmopolitan lady of leisure. Dare to Dream. You see – this is what couture is meant to do. This collection takes you there.

Schiaparelli

This green dress in particular is the one that everyone would remember. It’s the type of dress that you hand down to your daughters, generation after generation. It’s fantastic.

Schiaparelli 2

Valentino

These first two Valentino gowns in Velvet are very simple and very perfect. A simple couture gown should live forever, these will do that.

Valentino 1

I love the heavy traditional ethnic embroideries, especially on the boots where it is more unexpected. This is very much in the vain of the new Valentino where ethnic is the new modern. The colorful embroideries on the first look are what you can call bang for your buck . By definition “Couture” is hand sewn, if all that embroidery is hand sewn I cannot imagine how long it must have taken to complete. The result then is truly a work of very expensive folk art.

The second dress with the lace hearts is fascinating somehow. The lightness is intriguing and the lacework is truly spectacular.

The boots are killers and I am certain we will see knock offs of “embroidered” boots all over the market soon. It’s pretty remarkable that Valentino has managed to make something as demure as embroidery so egdy and yeah, cool.

Valentino

Zuhair Murad

…aaaand the Oscar goes to…

The little girl in me who wanted to be a “muse” after I first saw Xanadu squealed when I saw these. Not that they look like anything from that which is one of the best rollerskating mythos based 80’s movies of all time….But that these are gowns that are to be worn by this mytical creature. These are ethereal, twinkly, provocative, goddess gowns for the ages. Oh yeah, and the last look…its pants. Someone call Kate Hudson! Oh my God.

Only Couture ; )

Zuhair Murad

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