Coats. There is an abundance of fantastic Coats. I can say there is at least one from each collection listed below I would kill for – and in several case many more than just one. You see a fantastic coat is the best investment (if your climate requires) because often times you wear it more than any other piece in your wardrobe. Many times it will be the only part of an outfit the world will see – therefore making the importance of its statement (of lack therof) even more so. This abundance of fantastic coats is no doubt the result of the epic shift we have seen happen in the last 2 years in menswear where for the first time in the mainstream womenswear is influencing menswear. About time really as menswear has been assisting the ladies since the 1920’s! Up until recently, rock and roll was the only place a guy could find outrageous togs – but now there are velvet and sequins and lace and satin, glitter and glam and embroidery and beading, color and print and texture across the board. It’s a good time to be a guy.
I like this because I could see myself dressing like this as a man. The 3/4 narrow coats in plaid speak to my affinity for 1950’s era London Fog staples. The pants come both pegged or wide – depending on your mood. The creeper toed shoes that harken back to and go well with the zoot suit-y wallet chain that I still like the look of despite its past as a played out trend from the 1990’s. All in all I like the exaggerated length when its long, and the exaggerated width when its slouchy and the overall feeling of comfort. These clothes look as comfortable as they look cool. How I aspire to be.
I like these Frankenstein jackets, a lot. We’ve seen the leather sleeves thing before but I can’t recall seeing the same treatment among the tweeds and the bomber jacket. Such a simple idea yet it looks so clever. It’s practically punk in it’s DYI.
There is a definite Rock and Roll thing happening over at the house of B and you know I cannot resist any genuine respect for the culture of rockers. They were the first ones to legitimize outrageous dressing and freedom from gender barriers. These clothes are nothing new but they are nicely made and built to last. So if you are looking for a long term old school punk rock piece that you can live in then here’s your chance. That plaid coat with the leopard collar would be my personal choice!
Etro has always been a favorite because they have built a brand based on colorful patterns and diverse textures. They skillfully mix and play with pattern and texture in a way that is inspiring. Here they do it again – just as they always have. Some standouts are guess what … the Coats! There are some beauties here, my favorite being the blue butterfly on the fair fellow. Where many houses are trying to apply this technique to keep up with the trends set by brands like Gucci and ACNE – Etro already masters it. It must be gratifying for them to see their aesthetic become all the rage so they can really shine.
Ford delivers again in his promise to personally dress all the men of the world as suave motherfuckers. This is to say, in his own image. All the suits are tailored to perfection and come in luxurious fabrics from rich textured wools to eye catching shiny silks. Some beautifully considered leather jackets are added this season in classic black and white, I’m certain they are the finest leathers available. When I think of Tom Ford I think of dashing men checking their cuffs with a tug and giving a knowing wink.
This collection felt very 1930’s which was a transitional time in mens fashion. The pants were loose yet tailored, the suits were getting flashy and there was a feeling of whimsy. This collection has charming touches of art deco in the velvet suit collars and polo sweaters (the game not the collar). Then there are the quintessential D&G hallmarks of brocade and glitter – there was so much sequins in this show it brought a tear to my eye. I’m not sure how many men would wear a sequin coat (god bless them bc they should!) but I know a hell of a lot of women, myself included who would kill for these patterned sequin jackets and coats and sweaters… The costume element is strong – perhaps a bit too strong but there are always collectible and covetable pieces that can be found among the pomp and circumstance. (emerald green striped and sequin velvet smoking jacket? Yes please!) And as always the shoes and accessories are phenomenal!
If the idea in fashion is to take a bit of whats trending and sprinkle it over your aesthetic in order to stay current is the key then Demeulemeester has got it all figured out. There has been a turn toward punk and grunge revival lately and obviously houses like Brunello Cucinelli or Armani aren’t going to even try to hop on that one, but if you are Demeulemeester and you already have a foot in that door then why not? This season they have moved seamlessly (sorry) from the previous seasons pirate/18th century poet to pirate/punk rocker. The button cuff pant is still here but feels less costume when paired with the high ankle boot and the draping shirts feel less dramatic with a long jacket. It all really works here.
You can always count on McQueen to outshine all the others. Here we see exquisitely tailored suits in bright flower prints and oversize plaids which are a standard for Burton. Among boxy cut leathers and painterly prints she sneaks in a few choice lace print patterns that seem to speak toward those lace curtains you’d find at your Mom’s house. The last few coats with the beaded wings are breathtakingly beautiful and the final chandelier jackets are art pieces. Standout McQueen – you simply cannot do any less.