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Resort 2019

When I think Resort I think Vacation. When it’s in the context of fashion I think Glamorous, Chic – Jet Setting Vacation! Some designers satisfy my parameters and others go off that beaten path and use this mid-season as an opportunity to preview their latest vision. Some do both. But I must say that I do tend to lean heavily in favor of those that fulfil my glamour fantasy, especially if it’s set in the south of France or on some fantastic voyage through exotic tropical islands… Bon Voyage!

Altuzarra

I have been a sucker for a landscape print ever since I first saw them plastered all over the 1994 Collection by Todd Oldham. These are perfect for resort. I immediately want to grab those killer cat eye glasses and hop on a plane to Antigua.

Todd Oldham

 

Johanna Ortiz

Resort was invented so that Ortiz could shine. Her collections always feel like a curated wardrobe for the sophisticated jetsetter. She embodies the idea of resort with tropical and chintz prints, off shoulders and ruffles, cottons and billowing silks. I especially love that she has incorporated the fringed shawl into the dresses this time because as much as I love them they feel like a slip sliding burden when you try to wear them. Here you get the look without having to think about where you’re going to hang it when you sit down to dinner.

Dice Kayek

I didn’t want to like this. Many of the dresses in this collection look like party dresses for 5 year olds.  But then as I flipped through the images I liked it more and more. The volume is something I really expected to see more of by now and when I do see it I really appreciate the shapes and sculpture. It’s different from what everyone else is doing and that is refreshing. Plus there are a few that are downright charming like the sleeveless black dress which is really versatile and the white ruffled number which has playful lightness.

Dennis Basso

These colors, they are not my favorite.  Especially when you block them like in the chevron dress or the color blocked furs. Too much pastel all together just conjures bunny rabbits and colored eggs. I cannot be alone in this thinking. However, blush tones and pale blues when alone or dramatically contrasting with charcoal gray or deep reds, plums, or navy – DIVINE! So I can see my way to acceptance when these colors are used.  The luxe fabrics, laces, florals and sequins are always a favorite and here they are done tastefully and with a touch of innovation to keep it from getting too “pretty”. The jacket for instance, with the  elbow length sleeve and the cascading floral embroidery feels so special, a great balance of modern and vintage. Or the floral print dress worn over the lace long sleeve shirt – the drama that it brings – takes that dress from pretty to edgy with that single pairing. There seem to be a lot of dusty florals in the collections this season which I can’t help but think are coming from the world of interior décor. They are reminiscent of the large floral wall coverings I’ve seen in the last few years, normally interiors take their cues from the runway…perhaps the lines are blurring between the two worlds.

 


Floral wallpaper “murals” have been trending for the last few years

Erdem

Again here are the florals. A friend of mine once told me that her favorite era of fashion was in the 1970’s when they revived the 1930’s. That’s just how this feels and if I was to make an educated guess – and why not – I’d say that this collection was either inspired by or photographed by the incomparable Paolo Roversi. His aestertic is always dusty muted tones and romantic ultra feminine looks tempered with mystique. Or similarly Sarah Moon another photography virtuoso. The inclusion of yellow ochre and olive green velvet ribbons and caramel and burgundy leather accessories shout out to the 1970’s, along with a the wide lapel jacket in leopard fur. The 30’s is represented in the silhouettes’ long narrow lines, dusty color palette and Erdem signature florals. These two eras combine so well that I can’t help but consider the similar political and cultural revolutions that were happening in those decades. They both had a sexual revolution, both were bucking societal restrictions and listening to scandalous new music, Jazz (30s) and Hard Rock(70’s). I’m certain there are many other common undercurrents that could relate the two which make their pairing here even more provocative.


Sara Moon

Paolo Roversi

Zac Pozen

The beautiful sculpted garments that are the signature style of Zac Pozen are distinctive. He has a way of draping fabric and tailoring that is truly an art form. These women become moving sculpture. Resort or not, it is incredible.

 

Christian Dior

I have been the loving the new designer at Christian Dior. This collection is not my favorite but it was undeniably beautiful and clearly inspired. As I was going through looks I started to get a very strong 2010’s Valentino vibe and kept thinking this is so like what Valentino was doing before the lady designer left. It was then I had a forehead slap moment. Wait, was the new Christian Dior designer the sorely missed  female designer of the Valentino team that turned that house around a decade ago? I feel pretty dumb that it took me this long to realize that my favorite half of that infamous duo was now turning around another great house, Christian Dior. Her name is Maria Grazia Chiuri and it all seems so obvious to me now. When she left Valentino you could tell right away, the house just lost it’s luster and hasn’t been nearly the bellweather since she’s moved on. The amazing embroideries, the botanical and mystical themes that celebrate heritage and culture are all Chiuri. That was always my favorite part, now it’s my favorite part of Dior.

Valentino 2015 under Chiuri

 

 


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Pre Fall 2018

This new frontier of showing collections is driving me crazy. Used to be there was a set schedule of when the collections would roll out so you’d know when to check the postings of the shows. Fashion weeks dictated the blocks of time, you could count on Fall fashion to be over a series of 3-4 weeks; New York, Paris, London,  Milan etc. Now with so many designers showing off runway, through lookbooks, galleries or private events, it’s anything goes. Fall can show anytime of year – same with Resort, Pre-Fall, Spring and so on until I’m not sure what season I’m looking at until I read the fine print. Not to mention running the risk of missing something incredible because I wasn’t checking in that day. Hopefully soon there will be a resolution to create some order amongst the chaos because I cannot be the only one who feels they may be missing out and certainly the designers cannot afford to be missed! The result I’m afraid is a rather patchy group of blog posts, where I may have missed some, or posted too early for others, leaving me only the option of adding updates to posts as necessary. SO all that being said, here is Pre Fall 2018!

 

Ermanno Scervino

There are two personas that resonate with me here, the ultra feminine, lacy, floaty dresses and the punk rock leopard and plaid. They have somehow combined the two and added in a military nod for good measure and come up with one kooky collection. I cant say I really get what they are going for, perhaps duality? I’m sure they have a whole explanation but it’s not entirely clear from the outside. It does however have some pieces that I love including almost all of those girly dresses and overcoats.

Sacai

This collection was striking. Each look was a collage of fabrics and prints, texture and shape. They garments have been arranged as if the designer had pieces that he was moving about until he found the right balance – always asymmetric. The eye is forced to move the way it would looking at a piece art with excellent composition.

Michael Kors

I am a fan of the rose print. Not gonna lie, especially when it’s mixed with an animal print. The lengths here are also right on, leaving a blurred line between day and evening which for sportwear is key.

 

Andrew GN

I look forward to seeing what GN is going to bring to the table each season. My favorite collections are always the ones with the heavy ethnic reference. Much like the former incarnation of Valentino in the early 2010’s there is always a sort of Russian doll or Eastern European traditional costume element in the clothes that I find kinda irresistible. It’s the modern take of either the traditional sihlouette; like a peasant sleeve or a print; like this oversized rose here as a lace applique – that feels like an honoring of cultures long past. A connecting of generations, a respect for tradition in a disposable fast fashion world.

Delpozo

First of all – STYLING! The styling of this collection is so wonderfully fantastical and reminiscent of classic painted portraiture. Does this creative styling make me like the clothes more…YES, yes it does. Give that photographer a raise. This collection isn’t really what you’d normally find on our page. But its undeniably good. The color story is playful and charming while also managing to be sophisticated. The shapes are structured yet soft and feminine. The contrast isn’t just in the dynamic pallette, but in the fabrications and silhouettes. So maybe this is our style after all, we do love a clever contrast.

Sachin & Babi

This is clean and modern feeling despite all the sequin and fringe. There is a hero in the styling here, where the modern is played up through hair and accessories making the clothes feel more sophisticated and elegant. The killer here has to be the white topped sleeveless gown with the embellishments. Perfect balance of modern utilizing the geometric shape and glamour with those deep colored stone embellishments. Stunning, a best piece of the season.

Oscar De La Renta

I love what is happening at La Renta, there is a definite honoring of the house and it’s done with such vision! There are modern cuts and shapes in modern fabrics that express both grace, elegance and a little humor. This is exactly how a modern version of a classic house should be run. Follow the original ideals while always moving them forward. The tulle dresses are charming and the separates are high style sophisticate. Love!

Christian Dior

I am loving the new design direction at Christian Dior. This is the first time since Galliano that the line has been so memorable. This particular collection feels distinguished – as Dior ought to be – and yet youthful. This time there is a touch of that 1960’s London, Mary Quaint style, in the shoes and caps. It’s youthful but in a retro way which is refreshing as most designers appeal to the party girl youthmarket via slick party dresses and overt sexiness. Dior here, feels fresh and bright while retaining a sense of dignity.

 


Mens Spring 2018

I wasn’t even going to do a Men’s post for this season because as it was rolling out I wasn’t seeing anything that really inspired a post. But then I saw the Dolce & Gabbana Collection, and Haider Ackermann, and then Rick Owens and I thought well, I have to write about this.

Ann Demeulemeester

There is always a sort of Marque De Sade, 18th century poet vibe happening over at Ann Demeulemeester and this time was no exception. Although this time there is also a swashbuckling 1970’s seduction element. It can get costumey but for the right guy this really does hit the mark. He’s a theatrical type for certain with a romantic confidence. Plus these are prime steal from your man clothes, seriously, they’d look so good on me.

Alexander McQueen

In this collection there weren’t a whole lot of Spring clothes and even less for Summer but I find myself overlooking this glaring offence in the name of outstanding fashion. But then again an argument could be made that they are in London after all and I guess the Spring there is chilly so wearing a wool coat isn’t out of the question. Or you could just say it’s fashion, its Alexander McQueen, they can do whatever they want! The result of throwing convention out the window (and who better than the house of McQueen to do so?) are some very cool and unique clothes. The leather jumpsuit is biker chic at its very best and the string draped jackets are works of art. Sure they’d catch on every table you walk by but hey – how cool does it look?!

 

Rick Owens

I don’t usually include Owen’s work because honestly I don’t think its very wearable. His designs fall more in the realm of art and are conceptual and storytelling. His shows are experiences that don’t typically translate when posting runway stills. But this time is different. His vision for this collection was about man finding order in nature. Hoping to make his place and therefore find immortality. The evolution of the clothes was a way of showing a rise to understanding and eventually the civilization of men. Profound stuff for fashion yet it’s pulled off here with beauty at its core. This is what caught my attention, the beauty. The pants in particular are draped so – ugh – words! The are billowy and soft and light while still somehow full, formed and perfectly cultivated.  Owens was able to master the fabrics like a surfer riding a wave. He gets it here so perfectly that it’s almost moving. At least for me. And the cropped jackets are fit beautifully with long lean arms and trim waists, the result being a stunning silhouette of fit and fullness. I was blown away. Am.

 

Berluti

I’m clicking through the Berluti collection and I’m wondering why I’m liking it so much. Don’t get me wrong, Berluti has always been a well made collection but it’s usually lacking charisma. Not this time though, with each look I became more and more intrigued. The pants are cut with just the right amount of cool guy drape and sit in just the right spot on the hips. The jackets are sleek and clean and expertly tailored, just the right amount of design so that you don’t really even notice it – this is what makes clothes, staples. Timeless. Then I got to the end of the show and it all became clear. The last photo showed the designer, Haider Ackermann. Of course! The master of cool menswear has harnessed his flair just enough to make it more commercial for his new endeavor. He did a great job, totally wearable and tons of investment pieces. I’m sure Berluti will be thrilled.

Givenchy

Here are some cool options for the guy who is on the fence about wearing the outrageous pieces from Gucci. There are some stunning items here, most notably the shiny print trousers and metallic suits, which could be mixed into a more conservative wardrobe without too much blowback or concern over being trendy. Not to mention the sprinkling of some sequins shawl collared evening jackets that would certainly be in danger of being stolen by ones lady friend. A little flash never hurt anyone, particularly when it’s as impeccably tailored and crafted as Givenchy.

Dolce & Gabbana

My longstanding favorite designer never fails to deliver on the quintessential Italian flair. These fellows are decked out to impress with all their flash and machismo and somehow D & G can marry those two elements and not feel cheesy. These garments are fitted with ease, (not overly tight like Versace) allowing them to remain at once – Gentlemen. Flashy Gentlemen, but still having class. This is a man who brings humor and charm to the table, he definitely can’t take himself too seriously. There has to be a sense of fun, after all Dolce & Gabbana is all about playing dress up. Particularly love the sparkly collar tuxedos because sometimes you just want a little bit more dazzle. 

 


Open for business!

After a long hiatus we are thrilled to announce that our e commerce website is open for business! Available now are Mens and Womens jewelry and accessories, a small collection of home accessories and a few one of kind paintings by myself, Heather Koszyk. Please drop by and have a look, we’d love to get your feedback!

And check in every now and then as we will be adding a vintage and estate jewelry department as well as a vintage clothing department. Plus we are hoping to add a few more designers to our catalog so there is a lot more to come, Cheers!

 


Resort 2017

Not sure what to make of the Resort collections. It has always been a season that is up for interpretation and here it continues to be like California Architecture – a mix of all styles.  Choosing favorites becomes even harder  because I am choosing between drastically different types of collections.  Some are chic and breezy for a vacation while others are showing outerwear and brocade. I tend to lean toward the more warm weather wear for this season as it just feels like the more natural definition of RESORT. That being said here are my favorites.

Antonio Marras

What I love about this aside from the sense of nostalgia, is the way the patterns are mixed and sewn. The dresses have a certain old timey feel that appeals to my desire to play dress up.

antonio marras

ADEAM

As a big cardigan fan I can’t help but have a visceral response to cardigans looking cool and not conservative. Others often remark I look like a librarian or a teacher when sporting one of my many handy, lightweight layering pieces. So to see the cardigan shine here (not through embellishment or pattern) is pretty nifty. I also find the use of shape and proportion intriguing. The wide trousers, which are becoming more and more prevalent on runways are extreme yet still classic.  They choose a  pinstripe which is unusual for resort but it’s brilliant here where it acts as a more sophisticated seersucker. The touches of girlishness seen in the bows and flounces are paired with the more masculine stripe resulting in an easy, chic vibe.

adeam

Elizabeth and James

This is truly a Resort collection. Wherever these girls are going I want to go too. This is elegant, breezy, sophisticated and cool. I’m feeling Belize, Cannes, the Spanish Rivera? A glistening aqua pool overlooking a magnificent vista. Sign me up – and pack these clothes.

elizabeth-and-james

Nina Ricci

Ricci strikes the perfect balance between modern cool girl and retro 1930’s cool girl.

nina-ricci

Markus Lupfer

This looks more like Markus Lupfer for Target. It’s a decidedly commercial outing but that’s okay with me. Particularly for the resort season where you are supposedly shopping to supplement your transitional wardrobe or for a tropical vacation. Ahh the good old days when flying was a glamorous and exciting endeavor,  not like being on a city bus. Anywaaaaaaay, these are all solid items that work for either requirement. The palm print is a long time favorite of mine and I am pleased to see it come back into fashion. Showing it in navy/black is a nice variation on the classic green/white combo.

markus-lupfer

Anna Sui

I guess I would consider my personal style somewhere between gothic and bohemian. With that in mind this collection offers some very wearable and practical items for either my pseudo goth vacation, or just a nifty new dress or cardigan to blend into that eclectic closet of mine. Love the nod to grunge in the dresses but not quite sure I could ever wear a choker again. Like a former hippie swearing off bellbottoms or a yuppie rejecting shoulder pads, sometimes you just can’t/won’t go back.

anna-sui

Di$count Universe Australia

So apparently I need to go to Australia and get a job working with these two chicks. They are having entirely too much fun down there and it is blasted all over these clothes. The cut on the pink blazer is perfection and the leather shirt/jacket whatever that is – covered in studs is so obvious I cant believe I haven’t seen it before. The boots are outrageous and the color combinations are dead on. Rock and roll is alive and well in the upside-down.

dicount-universe-australia

Gucci

Here is what resort looks like when you give absolutely no fucks about what season you are designing for. I continue my love hate relationship (one sided) with the latest incarnation of this iconic house. The embellishments are getting even more insane to the point where I almost get angry about the gall of this guy! How dare he pile it on with total abandon, doesn’t he know where he works? Its like a slap in the face to the history of the house. A once elegant and daresay preppy powerhouse is now known for its insane hipster/dork gaudiness. It irks me to see the association because it’s just too drastic, but I cannot look away. Worn all together makes me want to cover my ears it’s so loud but if you pull out items on their own they are just. so. cool. ARRRRGH! SO COOOOOOOL. Green leopard coat? Yes. Silk printed skirt? Yep. Sneaky snake and floral printed spring dress? Uh huh. Tartan, leopard, stripes, cats, tigers, roses? Yes! I give up! You win Mr. Alessandro Michele. As if I stood a chance…

gucci-1

gucci

 

 


Is instant internet access to fashion shows hurting the business?

D&G Selfie

“Selfie” Collection Dolce & Gabanna Spring 2015

When writing my review of Men’s Spring 2016, I mentioned how I was no longer really into chinoiserie as much as I had been when I had seen the collections posted online back in September. That I had moved on to a new obsession since then, which made it difficult for me to write a review on favorites I no longer felt as passionate about. This got me thinking about the public’s accessibility to the collections. The photos are uploaded almost instantly to the internet these days. This means that anyone can see the new trends, styles and influences at the same time as the buyers and the press. This is a meaningful new development. When the fashion calender was concieved it was set up to show the collections 6 months in advance in order to allow time for;

  • All buyers to set appointments to view and order the product
  • The Designer to conceive and photograph their campaigns for press
  • Edit where necessary and produce the ordered product (allowing time for corrections in production)
  • Deliver product to the stores

This idea works fine when the publics’ first glimpse hits the magazine stands at roughly the same time as the clothes are hitting the stores. But now with the internet there are countless websites where you can see the newest designs coming down the runway hours after the buyers and press. Which begs the following questions;

Do we really need the magazines to hit the stands?

Do we want to wait those 6 months for delivery of product to stores?

I can tell you that personally I have moved on from most trends by the time they actually make it to the stores. I want what I am seeing as soon as I see it. When you see famous people, wealthy clients, jetsetters and the like strutting around in special rush orders does it still feel as exciting to get those same clothes in the store 5 months after others have already worn them? Is fashion moving too fast for it’s own good? Is fashion making its own trends obsolete before they even get to market – to the consumer? Is this new way of business sustainable?

 

 


Pre Fall 2014 Ready To Wear – Favorites

The last month has been a whirlwind of Look books Runways and Presentations starting with Pre Fall 2014 – then Menswear 2014 (which is still happening) then Couture and now BAMFall 2014 Ready to Wear. Whew! There hasn’t been time to catch our breath let alone set aside time to get these posts organized and logged. But a few stolen moments here and there and we will dive right in with our Best of the Pre Fall shows for 2014. This group is paired down to just the true standouts as time is of the essence here and we just didn’t have enough to do a more elaborate and thorough review.  Nonetheless here it is – Enjoy!

Burberry brings it with romantic and feminine jewel tones that make you wonder why anyone would ever wear pastels.

Burberry brings it with romantic and feminine jewel tones that make you wonder why anyone would ever wear pastels.

Altuzarra carried over the feel from the very inspired looks of the Sring 2014 Collection and did so seamlessly. Still sexy and wearable and with a beachy ease. Love this. And we love the burnt orange and navy, feels like a perfect fit for Pre Fall.

Altuzarra carried over the feel from the very inspired looks of the Spring 2014 Collection and did so seamlessly. Still sexy and wearable with a beachy ease. Love this. And we love the burnt orange and navy, feels like a perfect fit for Pre Fall.

Belstaff continues to put forth cool beautifully made chic clothes you would wear everyday if you could afford to. Right? Amazing. Yes

Belstaff continues to put forth cool, beautifully made, chic clothes you would wear everyday if you could afford to. Right? Amazing. Yes

Zac Pozen designs for a Modern day Marilyn Monroe, no doubt. There is equally less doubt that any woman who would wear a dress would want to look like this wearing it. No doubt. He is consistanly showing gorgeously tasilored form fitting andf enhancing garments that just make you sigh overwhelmed with romance.

Zac Pozen designs for a modern day Marilyn Monroe, no doubt. There is equally less doubt that any woman who would wear a dress would want to look like this wearing it. No doubt. He is consistently showing gorgeously tailored, form fitting and enhancing garments that just make you sigh overwhelmed with romance. Sigh

This is what we love to see from Donna Karen, easy and cool sportswear. Pieces you can pick up and add to your wardrobe with no effort made to make them fit in. They just work, they are timeless.

This is what we love to see from Donna Karen, easy and cool sportswear. Pieces you can pick up and add to your wardrobe with no effort made to make them fit in. They just work, they are timeless. Next!

I'm pretty sure this is the first time we have included Antonio Berardi in a post...Here's why we did this time. That skirt. That silhouette is a knockdown kockover knockout. Boom.

I’m pretty sure this is the first time we have included Antonio Berardi in a post…Here’s why we did this time. That skirt. That silhouette is a knockdown kockover knockout. Boom. (And the red underside – AWESOME!!!)

The Olsens twins are all over  this right? As former and possible latter Seattlilites the whole Grunge look is like a charming stain we leave on the wall because it adds character to an otherwise just pretty wallpaper. the star here is that plaid shirtdress , the possibilities of that one item are endless. that one's going in the essentials.

The Olsen twins are all over this right? This is from one of their less expensive lines called Elizabeth and James named for their siblings. As former and possible latter Seattleites the whole Grunge look is like a charming stain we leave on the wall because it adds character to an otherwise just pretty wallpaper. The star here is that plaid shirtdress , the possibilities of that one item are endless. That one’s going in the essentials.

The design team that has taken over Valentino have had their work cut out for them for sure. They have truly taken the Lable in a new direction, but I say NEW delicately as they are truly one of the few designers who are making ready to wear that is Couture inessence. These garments atre so esquisite (I never say esquisite) that tey are destined to be vintage pieces of great importance and value in the future. They are the New VINTAGE. That's fucking impressive.

The design team that has taken over Valentino have had their work cut out for them for sure. They have truly taken the label in a new direction, but I say NEW delicately as they are truly one of the few designers who are making ready to wear that is Couture in essence. These garments are so exquisite (I never say exquisite) that they are destined to be vintage pieces of great importance and value in the future. They are the New VINTAGE. That’s fucking impressive.

Roberto Cavalli. I probably say this every time but you either Love or Hate Cavalli. But he certianlly doesn't care if you hate him that's apparent due to the confidence of his designs. He is everything we want to see from Milan. you want color? You want Prints? Do you want to own a room the minute you walk into it? Yeah, DONE.

Roberto Cavalli. I probably say this every time but you either Love or Hate Cavalli. But he certainly doesn’t care if you hate him that’s apparent due to the confidence of his designs. He is everything we want to see from Milan. you want color? You want Prints? Do you want to own a room the minute you walk into it? Yeah, DONE.

Francesco Scognamiglio. I don't know if this is a first for us with this designer - it's hard to keep track honestly. But these pieces were just captivating in their delicacy and feminity. They are cool and sexy and strong while still being coquettish and demure. ???? Bravo. For the mystery of Woman.

Francesco Scognamiglio. I don’t know if this is a first for us with this designer – it’s hard to keep track honestly. But these pieces were just captivating in their delicacy and femininity. They are cool and sexy and strong while still being coquettish and demure. ???? Bravo. For the mystery of Woman.

 


Spring 2014 Review

Of the seasons offerings there were some collections that were the true standouts. Though they seemed to have come primarily from the usual suspects including most noteably Cavalli, Ackerman and Altuzarra. Those designers included, here are some of our favorite looks from the Spring 2014 runways in order of apperance:

Nicole Miller

Maybe I am a bit biased as Ms. Miller is a fellow alumni of the Rhode Island School of Design but probably not, this collection was just really well edited. Editing is key when you are dealing with Prints and Miller is one of few designers known for her use of them. Personally I love prints because they do so much of the work  for you (of looking clever and cool) especially if they are well chosen and deliberately cut, as they are here. Not to mention that I am a undying fan of stripes mixed with florals. Here Miller shows and inspired mix of prints and thoughtfully added embellishments which result in pieces that really stand out. The styling of this collection was great also. I love the first dress here and put it as one of my top 5 favorite looks of the season as it is not only timeless but charming as hell.

Nicole Milller

Altuzarra

Gorgeous metallic and easy yet sexy silhouettes made this collection feel fresh and modern without the usual uptight notions typically associated with modern. It’s like a genus cross between the beachy washed linens look we are seeing all over the home furnishings market crossed with a revamped 1990’s power suit. I love this, so cool. So so cool.

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Jenny Packham

Anyone familiar with our blog knows that I am a die hard classic Hollywood fan. I can never resist a collection that takes it’s inspiration from that era of screen goddesses and handsome smart asses Sigh…  This collection had a decidedly Katherine Hepburn in The Philadelphia Story vibe going on and I think it’s just lovely. It’s soft and floaty and feminine but with the Hepburn styling gives a nod to a gal with guts.

Packham

Michael Kors

The quintessential American Sportswear king. Every collection looks like it’s designed for a weekend in the Hamptons. This season he nailed it again with effortless chic topped with sunglasses on her head and and a wink in her eye. As with Packham I love the nod to the 1940’s here with the exaggerated shoulder on the jacket and the inspired love for the housedress… What can I say really, he just knows his customer so well and it shows season after season.

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kors

Marchesa

This design team is perhaps known best for their Bridal collection or maybe for the starlets who wear their gowns on the red carpet. Their designs are at once feminine and intriguing. Thier shows are always fun to see because they constantly send out new silhouettes and new visions while maintaining their distinct point of view. This group was very eclectic and included elements of fringe, lace, beading, tulle you name it. My favorite looks are this one with the bohemian fringe skirt and the stunning gothic floral dress with the wrapped ribbons. So pretty yet powerful.

Marchesa

Temperly London

Temperly London holds a soft spot in my heart for always delivering classic, ladylike charm with a decidedly English sensibility. I am always reminded of Audrey Hepburn when I view their collections.  It seems they should be the go to designer for Kate Middleton as they epitomize the classic English lady while staying inspired and current. This collection was more bold than those of late, almost seeming to channel Roberto Cavalli with the print choices while staying true in the silhouette to the lady that they design for.

T London

Burberry

Now these two looks may not seem to warrant a feature in my best of for Spring 2014 due to the simplicity of the design, but the basic top and loud skirt combo is a go to look personally and I just had to throw them in here. I’m actually not a fan of the graphic print on the lace but I can appreciate the irony of putting a bold black and white on what is traditionally a soft fabric. I do love irony…

Burerry

Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli is the frick to my obsession with Dolce and Gabbana‘s frack. I love Cavalli for all that he is, a wild print obsessed suit designing madman who has perfected his vision to the point where you either love him or hate him. I love him. I have yet to see a collection from this man that has let me down. Though this collection was not all about his beloved prints, it had more of a focus on texture. He showed a group of awesome sheer knit dresses that could be rock and roll or park avenue chic depending on the styling.  There were also gorgeous beaded slip dresses that were slung with luxe fur stoles in a way that looked like an out the door afterthought. His woman always looks like she doesn’t have to try to be the most stunning in the room – she just can’t help but be. Perfection!

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cavalli

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Ann Demeulemeester

As I’m sure you can tell by now I am a fan of the designers who take their inspiration from a sort of   “muse mash up”. I can’t resist the provocative results of a dreamlike clash of seemingly random ideas. This is illustrated perfectly in the following collection. While the styling is very Season of the Witch – the look is really more of an English Redcoat Soldier ( a la Adam Ant ) meets Art Neuveau obsessed art school undergrad. Demeulemeester is often provocative like this in her inspiration and I hope to see more and more of her specific point of view.

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Haider Ackermann

I have become obsessed with this designer in the last few seasons and cannot get enough. He has a cool factor that results from the impeccable tailoring, modern fabrics, crazy outside the box silhouettes – it goes on and on. This designer is leading the way as far as wearable forward fashion. Let me say that again – WEARABLE forward fashion. Where unlike his conceptual counterparts who put the concept before all else – Ackerman never fails to find the perfect balance between concept and content which inevitably results in harmoniously forward fashion. He is my pick for designer to watch.

haider

haider 2

Valentino

 The new designers at Valentino have a very different woman in mind when they are designing. She’s not the sexy and sophisticated lady in red for whom Garavani was designing. Instead she is mostly outfitted in an assortment of highly embellished floor length dresses which typically feature high collars, bound waistlines and long narrow sleeves. The silhouette has gone from sleek and sexy to demure and fitted, it’s not bad, just….different. The name Valentino no longer conjures images of a starlet in Red on the Red Carpet whose gown sweeps up to an oversize bow or seduces with a  plunging back. The new Valentino woman looks more of a mysterious foreign girl from a bygone era. In this past collection she seems to be a mix of Russian and Peruvian (?) I guess her secret is still safe, but for certain she wears meticulously crafted garments that are truly exceptional.

Valentino

Prada

This has Hipster written all over it ( note the kitten head coat ) but that’s in line with fashion’s favorite muse…the street. This reminds me of the infamous grunge collection from Marc Jacobs in the early 90’s. He was crucified for putting floral granny maxi’s and baby dolls with doc martins and flannels. Here, Muccia has put bright wrapping paper print coats with crochet stockings and 60’s sunglasses granny style. High fashion often steals from the hip and this time the hip are likely those bespeckled girls who crochet by day and DJ by night. The self proclaimed nerds are now the new It girl, at least at the house of Prada.

prada

Zadig & Voltaire

If you cross hipster and Rock you get these guys. I like this designer because the clothes are affordable – by runway standards at least- and they transition easily and effortlessly from the runway to the street. Most of what they present could easily find a functional role in just about any modern girls wardrobe. Good investment pieces that don’t require a freakin’ loan, Hoo Ray!

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Belstaff

If you’ve got unlimited resources and you want a beautiful, cool as hell Leather jacket or pants than here’s the designer for you.  Season after season they consistently roll out amazingly crafted items. They have created a ubercool world of impossibly chic moto style that I’m sure most of us wish we could live in. Just check out the link to their site above to see what I mean.

Belstaff


Welcome to enexile

Welcome to our new home here at WordPress.

We have had a blog here : enexile@blogspot.com  since 2011 and encourage anyone who may be interested to check out our archives.

Enexile was a brick in mortar self proclaimed “rock n roll” boutique located in Seattle WA. from 1999 -2007. In 2007 we shut the doors and headed south to Savannah GA. to appease our Gypsy tendencies. However, just after I – the owner – settled in and began to look around for the right location to reopen the shop, the economy crashed. Thinking it best at that point to wait until the economy improved, we went online and have been here ever since. Please check out our wares at www.enexile.com. You can also follow us on Facebook and Pinterest! Thanks for the support – long live Rock n Roll in fashion! Cheers!

-Heather Koszyk