Tag Archives: Alexis Mabille

Couture Fall 2015

Couture is less and less each year. Will it ever come back? Will we miss it if it goes away? Is it sustainable? It feels like many designers have taken the drama and theatre once reserved for the couture world into Ready to Wear. The opulence no longer reserved for bespoke. We see conceptual collections on the Fall and Spring runways as a matter of fact these days which kind of leaves the couture world out to dry. There was a time where Ready to Wear was strictly business, but an evolution – perhaps a revolution has begun and there seems no way around the inevitable. So let’s revel in the hand labored glory and decadence before it is gone forever. (At least in the commercial houses) Perhaps there will be personal designers hired by those who can afford it to make custom wardrobes, then we will have come full circle won’t we? I mean, we have boutique cheese shops now right? Full circle.

Alexis Mabille

This was less of a collection and more of a showcase. Perfect for couture. A wardrobe – I love when the designers do this because you get a full portrait of the customer. In this case literally as the models are likely customers who have been photographed beautifully in impeccable fantastical gowns.

I would pay money to see what happens with those beads on the first dress when she moves.

I love the colors together and the placement in the lace gown. Ice blue and cranberry are so dynamic and here they are so masterfully layered  – it’s exquisite. (I don’t think I have ever used that word here before). Then in the last that mossy green velvet ombre against the fleshy pale pink is totally inspiring. The crystal beading just pushes it over the top into total decadence. I feel moved when I look at this – it is like a Dutch painting. Masterful work yet these are just my three favorites, see them all here > Alexis Mabille
Alexis Mabille

Elie Saab

Here is an example of a designer who has taken the look of couture to Ready to Wear. Saab’s gowns in this collection would fit into any of his Ready to Wear groups easily. There is only the difference of the work involved and naturally the resulting cost. These are all beautiful gowns which will hopefully never be worn by a real housewife yet that seems inevitable too.

Elie Saab

Giambattista Valli

This one look was a standout – not just for the color but for the flawless draping. It is perfect. Perfect, timeless, flattering, strong, sexy, dynamic, stunning. Shoes? YES! Yes YEs YES

Giambattista Valli 2

I had to include these detail shots because they are just so beautiful and artisanal.

The last shot appeared in my pinterest feed and I was blown away by that cloudlike silhouette.

Giambattista Valli

Schiaparelli

Schiaparelli has become my hands down favorite couturier over the years. The back catalog of the house is intoxicating and full of surrealism. They stay true to the house and always offer some playful surrealist nods which are much appreciated, while also making modern costumes for extremely exclusive and damn lucky women. There are moments of ooh and ahh’s that are truly earned here.

Schiaparelli

Valentino

I feel bad saying it but I don’t think Valentino has ever been better than it is now. This collection is more of a full offering which seems crazy and downright foolish in this economic environment yet they do it every time. There were 59 looks in this collection. That’s a lot for a Ready to Wear collection let alone couture. They must be killing it financially to sustain this. Good for them – the clothes are truly special and I have said many times that they are the new vintage pieces. Designed for today, tomorrow, the future, the past. These are heirloom garments. The first group was my favorite featuring the Greco Roman Velvet gowns and jewelry. Audrey Hepburn could wear these as easily as your friends’ stylish Mother. The latter of the group aren’t as accessible and go back to that couture as costume idea but the they are stunning and exotic and luxury personified.

Valentino

Zuhair Murad

Another example – like Saab – of a designers whos couture looks and RTW could be interchanged. The theme here was celestial and at times got a bit too Disney for me. These three felt the most successful because they didn’t get too tied to the theme. These three evolved into inspired and inspiring.

Zuhair Murad


Couture 2015

Here we are again between Pre Fall and the blitzkrieg that is Fall. The notorious Couture shows in all their decadent glory. Not much I can say that I haven’t said before so lets just jump right on in.

Elie Saab

Couture is at the core of Elie Saab. The collection had many beautiful offerings worthy of adoration but this one stood out. The choice of the soft dove gray made it feel antique without looking like a doily. It is sexy and demure at the same time somehow, which is so intriguing. I love the handkerchief drape from the waist, how it carries the top down through the gown. It’s so delicate that it’s angelic. Lovely.

Elie Saab

Alexis Mabille

Okay, so yes the first dress is a bit Beauty Pageant with the sequins and the sweetheart neckline but hear me out. That gather in the center at the waist is very dynamic, it takes the taste level and the elegance to where the inventor of sequin probably intended. Get that lady on the phone ’cause she needs to see this. The second dress is Madame Butterfly dramatic. I love the fit and flare of the skirt with the almost casual drape of the neckline. I do wish the collar was a bit more narrow but it’s couture! They can fix that for you Madame! The sleeves are all drama and the colors are head turners. I’m sure the fashion police would tear this to shreds but I cannot resist the impact of those bright flowers and that huge scarlet lined sleeve.

Alexis Mabille

Ulyana Sergeenko

This is so – dare I say it? FUN. I usually hate when people use “Fun” as a verb but I am stuck here. These are just costume enough to be kitschy, and just real enough to be remarkable. I see Dita Von Tease.

 These are modern day Costume, albeit in the way that fashion is referred to historically as costume. They may not be modern but they are definitely charming and whimsical and yes, fun. All things that are absolutely appropriate for the genre of Couture.

Ulyana Sergeenko

Schiaparelli

 The collection as a whole harkens back to the days when continental women of means would go to their (design) house of choice to have their wardrobe created for the season. Can you image being able to go your favorite designer to have your measurements taken, then asked what your plans were for the season??

Oh a weekend at a friend’s château in the south of France followed by a month at the Paris apartment. A 2 week tour of Egyptian ruins, then a quick jaunt over to the Swiss Alps to visit my aunt at her Chalet… la de dah.

This feels like it has been designed for a charming, quirky yet cosmopolitan lady of leisure. Dare to Dream. You see – this is what couture is meant to do. This collection takes you there.

Schiaparelli

This green dress in particular is the one that everyone would remember. It’s the type of dress that you hand down to your daughters, generation after generation. It’s fantastic.

Schiaparelli 2

Valentino

These first two Valentino gowns in Velvet are very simple and very perfect. A simple couture gown should live forever, these will do that.

Valentino 1

I love the heavy traditional ethnic embroideries, especially on the boots where it is more unexpected. This is very much in the vain of the new Valentino where ethnic is the new modern. The colorful embroideries on the first look are what you can call bang for your buck . By definition “Couture” is hand sewn, if all that embroidery is hand sewn I cannot imagine how long it must have taken to complete. The result then is truly a work of very expensive folk art.

The second dress with the lace hearts is fascinating somehow. The lightness is intriguing and the lacework is truly spectacular.

The boots are killers and I am certain we will see knock offs of “embroidered” boots all over the market soon. It’s pretty remarkable that Valentino has managed to make something as demure as embroidery so egdy and yeah, cool.

Valentino

Zuhair Murad

…aaaand the Oscar goes to…

The little girl in me who wanted to be a “muse” after I first saw Xanadu squealed when I saw these. Not that they look like anything from that which is one of the best rollerskating mythos based 80’s movies of all time….But that these are gowns that are to be worn by this mytical creature. These are ethereal, twinkly, provocative, goddess gowns for the ages. Oh yeah, and the last look…its pants. Someone call Kate Hudson! Oh my God.

Only Couture ; )

Zuhair Murad