Tag Archives: Bottega Veneta

Men’s Fall 2015

There was a notable shift on the runways for Fall 2015, from the prevailing “classic” man (the not too muscular debonair James Bond type) to more of a younger much more hip man. It really felt like the new poster boy for “Sexy” this season was The Geek. He was all over the runways in snug pants and black rimmed glasses, sometimes he was muscular and sometimes he was skinny. Either way he was everywhere. I get it, but it feels a bit late. I’m frankly surprised that this trend is just now becoming so popular with the designers because it really feels like this look was relevant a few seasons, if not years ago. It should have hit when Portlandia first came out, when popular music started including Banjos and Accordions. It feels passé, so for this post I skipped it.

The next most spotted type was the now super mainstream Rocker guy. Now it’s true that the Rocker look is a weakness of mine. I see it as one of the mainstays of cool because it is seasonless and timeless. And though I couldn’t resist pinning many of those looks, the sad fact was that none of them really said anything new. Just more tight leather pants – more lean shiloettes, more pointy shoes. Nothing that really made me say, “YES!” So for the first time ever – I’m not even going to include any in this post – I still love you John Varvatos, but Haider Ackermann is my new boyfriend.

Which leads me to the look that I feel is really refreshing. If you have been a follower or reader of this blog then you know my position on trends and how silly and predictable they are. Its been tight pants, tighter pants and tight little slim cut suits for so long. Naturally the most interesting and again REFRESHING thing on those catwalks was the slouchy, easy look of what I can best describe as The Slouch (it’s terrible I know). I have obviously struggled with what to call this look. It is definitely a reaction to the skintight dominance of the last decade – much the way it must have been in the 1980’s after the fit and flare decade of the 1970’s. Up to this point it has been Haider Ackermann in the forefront of this evolution though clearly more designers are staring to follow suit. Here are my favorites from Fall 2015 starting with one of the most pragmatic designers out there, Marc Jacobs:

Marc Jacobs

Time to relax and enjoy having some room to breathe in your trousers fellas. You have earned it. Now all you hip young things can strut with a swing in your step. These pants weighted down by a sharp looking cuff will have a nice little swish when you walk. You will actually feel the cool coming off you. Love the ease, the drape and especially the flat front. (Definitely no need to bring back the pleat front trouser thanks) This guy looks comfortable and cool despite the look of distain on his face which I don’t really get, I mean you don’t have to smile but c’mon. What a sad sac.  Geez

Marc Jacobs

Joseph

I had to throw this in because this image  really kind of says it all. The styling and the attitude are right there. Not a fan of the collarless coat but other than that, Yeah.

Joseph - Bag

Bottega Veneta

What I love about this is the modern day Englishman I get  from these looks. I realize it’s an Italian house and I get Italian as well. But at first glance I thought of 1900’s era street clothes and I dig it. I think it’s so charming and different from anything we have seen lately. This is probably the first double breasted blazer that makes me wonder why they were forsaken.

Bottega Veneta

Berluti

Here again is that same kind of look, the wooly blazer the hook laced boot, the fitted coat. They all have a rumpled, everyman 1900’s feel that is charming. Paired with the easy soft trousers it all feels so chic.

Berluti

Moncler Gamme Bleu

I have to include Moncler Gamme Bleu. Thom Browne always does something different and interesting and totally without regard to trends. I love him for this. Here is my order: I would like one pair of the pants on the first model and the jacket and pants from both other models. I would wear the hell out of these. I think the inset stripe through the leg it so cool and sexy, and these crazy, loud, over the top blazers are so in your face they cannot be denied. Love love love – for me that is. I don’t know too many men who could pull these off, but I’d love to meet them.

Moncler Gamme Bleu

Dries Van Noten

Another great visionary designer at Van Noten. I was really excited to see the Asian influence that I have been inspired by on this runway in Paris.  Chinoiserie has been my latest obsession and this is just right. The totally modern interpretation of the classic Chinese costume. The suit is especially successful in it’s wearability. The jackets turned inside out is such a clever way to style them and I am so curious as to how they look from the outside even though I totally took them at face value before I realized the trick. The plaid pants are really cool in that they evoke a bondage pant, punk rock Asain hybrid of sorts. and the Silk jacket and shirt in the center are just hard to pin down – it’s like sloppy elegance? Provocative and totally inspired.

Dries Van Noten

Haider Ackermann

Even though this collection is not the epitome of the Slouch (ugh – I have got to do better), Ackermann was certainly the first. Check out the breakout collection from last year. Here is the evolution and it is such  eye candy. The colors are rich as are the textures and the fabrics. As always the styling is everything particularly with Ackermann.  I don’t know that the clothes would make any sense if you didn’t see them presented in the designers’ vision. This man is Johnny Depp in his heyday. The thrown together expensive luxury of it all.  You can imagine the story of this man and it is romantic and captivating. This is totally brilliant and I want it all.

Haider Ackermann


Spring 2015

The collections for Spring 2015 didn’t really speak to me. I was looking for some 90’s era, grunge floral dresses mixed with bohemian layered lightweight separates. I hoped to see chinoiserie inspired prints and loads of color. Once again there were showings of entire white collections, entire black collections, beige, neutral etc. Though not was I was looking forward to – there were some great looks among those pallid palettes that I had to include. Not many designers were tapped into my frequency this season but thankfully there were a few.

Bottega Veneta

Being a cardigan kind of gal from way back it’s hard to pass these up. Effortless is always chic and it’s pretty clear why when you check out the styling here.

1 Bottega Veneta

Haider Ackermann

Now definitely a favorite designer. The styling is so important here yet it’s only as successful as the drape and proportion. The clothes are all cut to the exact right length to layer agreeably. The result is dialed in perfectly. This shade of pink was a color pick from Spring 2013 – still a favorite.

 1 Haider Ackermann

Etro

So here are some prints and some boho. More southwest than what I like for sure but Etro always does such an impressive job of layering prints. There are pieces in here, the white jacket, the blue button front dress the floaty skirt and the top of the white dress…These are all pieces you could work into a wardrobe and they look like things that would feel great to wear on a warm spring day. They evoke a feeling of Springtime. That’s probably what I like the most here.

2 Etro

Anna Sui

This is more what I was hoping for. The Asian inspired prints, the floaty fabrics and girly yet rock and roll attitude. (The boots are stellar.)

3 Anna Sui !

St. Laurent

I’m realizing as I’m clicking through the St Laurent Collection that I’m having a hard time with the head to toe looks – and a better response to the detail images. I suppose because head to toe they look like costumes from some low budget 70’s film starring Debbie Harry and Marc Bolan. It’s so damned derivate – it’s almost 70’s punk plagiarism. In fact I think that’s exactly what it is. A totally intact time capsule – a time machine for the hipster fashionistas of the now. They love this shit. Despite my condemnation I admit once again that he’s got me with some of this. I cannot turn my back on rock and roll so yes, I’d take a piece or two (or five)  here and there. It is straight up fashion victims who will wear this as shown – God help all those “it” girls to have some perspective.

3 St Laurent

Temperly London

I love the 1920 / 1930’s nod to nightgowns here. The colors, the fabrics, the rhinestones. It’s Hollywood glamour. I’d wear the dress with a cropped sharp blazer for evening or a shrunken leather jacket for day. The short robe over a beater and jeans, the sheer robe over a graphic slip dress or a camisole and cigarette pants. So much fun could be had with these pieces. I love them.

3 Temperly London 1

Ermanno Scervino

These work for different reasons. The shorts are cool because they look like 1930’s tap shorts – a little cheeky (no pun intended) and a little sparkly. The dress looks ethereal while still looking modern ,(two typically opposing distinctions) and the frosted sleeves of that beautifully draped jacket are just serious magpie bait. That is all.

5 Ermanno Scervino

Tory Birch

I love that this is linen, that it is simple and most of all that it has a big fucking sparkly feather across the front. Totally impractical but I like it anyway.

5 Tory birch

Alberta Ferretti

More nightgown inspired dresses. I will always include these despite how many times I see them because they will always represent the classic romanticism that we need from time to time. It cannot all be modern – it just can’t.

6 Alberta Ferretti

Mary Katrantzou

This was a really cool collection inspired very literally by the ocean. I love the intricate and beautifully crafted details. The colors are so soft and feminine yet hit with that contrast of black…stunning. The pleats and the lace, and sheers over the prints – love love love.

6 Mary Katrantzou 1

Diane Von Furstenburg

This. The chinoiserie I was hoping for. This coat is flawless. The fit through the shoulder is so soft and clean, the collar is just right, the length, the nipped in waist. Perfect. Love!

7 DVF

 Undercover

Hieronymus Bosch.  I would be surprised if every art student hadn’t had a love affair with the works of Bosch when they first discovered him. His fantastical creatures, disturbing and glorious yet depicted so storybook-like. He was truly connected to a dream though his hands. The images once seen stay forever with the viewer. When I saw this collection roll out I got increasing excited because what a challenge to tackle.  If you are going to dare to involve such a beloved artists’ work with your own you really take a huge risk. This could have gone in so many directions… Ultimately I think they took a tame perspective and it works. They paid tribute to the fantasy and the beauty without making it inaccessible.

8 Undercover

Dolce & Gabanna 

When I first became a fan of Dolce & Gabanna I was a fashion obsessed pre teen. It was the 1990’s and they were running their Chelsea Girls inspired ad campaign. I was hooked immediately and I have not been anble to free myself from their grip ever since – nor would I care to.

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1992 Ad Campaign

This collection is like a touchstone. It has elements of all the things that I have loved them for over all these years. The corsets, the religion, the Italian heroine, all topped with crowns! This is so the epitome of Dolce & Gabanna. Glorious!

9 D & G 1 9 D & G 2 9 D & G 3 9 D & G 4

Gareth Pugh

These three looks are sophisticated, startling, and evocative. I dream of seeing that harlequin dress spin. It is my favorite dress of the season.

10 Gareth Pugh

Tom Ford

Wow.

If those are indeed sheer and sequin striped jeans on the first model then just show me where to pay. Why are these not a staple? Like blue jeans or leather pants?? Best pants of the year – hands down. The coat also modern and cool and billowy and sexy and yes please. And yesssssss – black sequin cape ensemble!?!? Killing me!! Rock and Roll meet drama! Hooray!

10 Tom FOrd

Lanvin

Dragon Print Pants and Snakeskin bag. Boom.

11 lanvin

Gucci

Chinoiserie! Thank you Gucci for answering my prayer. And not just Chinoisere, ohhh nooo – they did beaded, mixed patterns chinoiserie. They did femme fatale disco chinoiserie! YES! This is so fantastic – I’m sure Ana Sui is dying over these… They are GEORGOUS!

12 Gucci 1

Erdem

I have heard (on Project Runway from Nina Garcia) that green is the worst selling color in fashion. Considering how flattering it is that surprises me. How could this green be a hard sell I wonder?

I love seeing the Asian inspiration of course, not to mention the floaty feminine draping and delicate details – all shown in colorful prints. These dresses are lovely – just what I was hoping for.

13 Erdem

~Sidebar~

So I couldn’t help but notice that Valentino is heavily influencing designers. The silhouette and exotic peasant persona that they single handedly introduced seasons ago has trickled down to so many other collections. Here are just a few that cannot be disputed…

Tadashi Shoji, Erdem and Honor

14 Val Rip

Valentino

The pinnacle. They are still so far ahead of everyone else here. They continued to use traditional cultural prints. Here they have evolved from the previous eastern European style to more of a Spanish? I can’t put my finger on it but it’s charming yet graphic and the colors are perfect. Then the move to the mystical ocean theme? I’m not sure how they got from one to the other but when you are showing  79 looks you can tell a hell of a long story. The coral painted jacket is surprisingly elegant. The embellished dresses are like stunning costumes from a glamorous old movie. They defy an era.  Classic Beauty. They have done it again.

Valentino 1 Valentino 7 Valentino 8

I have been furiously pinning from Pre Fall and it seems there are a lot of the bohemian looks I was hooing to see in Spring. Until then though – check us out on Pinterest. See you soon, Cheers!!