Its a well known fact that couture has suffered in the last few decades. The glorious wealth that was the lifeblood of the houses has dwindled dramatically. Those houses that have continued to offer a couture collection do so cautiously and as a result couture is no longer the showcase it once was. Sure there have always been elegant sophisticated offerings but historically couture represented the high art of fashion. The evolution has been of the fittest and we have seen the shows become more for the clients and less for the designer. Sad for the artists but good for the investor. It seems that the transition from fantasy to reality has changed the perception a bit as well. At least for myself who now sees a couture purchase as a commitment and an investment. More so than ever, it is about truly outstanding garments that do one or both of the following things: Make a statement and Encapsulate a persona.
Old Hollywood meet young Hollywood. It’s not often where you see clothes that would work on such different types as Rihanna and Cate Blanchett – but here they are. This is “Hollywood” in the most flattering meaning possible. These are Lucille Ball by the pool in her heyday or Claudette Colbert gliding into 21 for dinner with her latest producer. I love this. Gorgeous!
Saab always shows red carpet gowns and dresses in both couture and Ready to Wear. He has it down to a science and is instantly recognizable by any in the know. This dress however is practically a departure from the beaded intricate looks for which he is known. This ombre firecracker is stunningly simple, dramatic, sophisticated and daring. Normally I would shy away from something as telling of an era like ombre, (which could end up being the synthesizer of fashion trends) but here it is done with such subtlety that it looks natural. Lovely.
German Bombshell. This is like if Disney did a spy thriller. Totally dramatic, totally sexy, pure fantasy. Modern Day Garbo with just the right amount of edge. The fetish folks will dig it, the Retro Girls will covet it and the glamourous will applaud it. Someone call Dita Von Tease!
Speaking of fetish right? There seems to be an element of the underground being celebrated in this collection. The fishnet swing coat and rhinestone encrusted netting are so elevated here that they almost slip under the radar. The result is a suspiciously kinky and sexy story from the usually tame Armani. Not a beige in the bunch nor a pastel to be seen. And those shoes – the shoes are devastating! Such a great interpretation. It’s wonderful to see this genre being given an elegant treatment.
I will never look at Dior with the googly eyes I had for them when it was designed by Galliano – no matter what he was an incredible creative. That being said, I can almost see his influence (at long last) creeping in with the addition of these frock coats. Perhaps someone over there is looking into the archives? Nonetheless, these coats – the fantastical frocks and the practical navy’s, are great. They hold their own despite not really seeming to belong to the same collection. Maybe the frock coats are just an example of the evolution which led to the modern navy looks on the left? I’m not sure the path but the outcome offers some lovely, totally chic staples. That first coat is so solid and so necessary that it’s like a smack in the forehead. And the second – there is so much personality in that coat that you don’t even need the girl.
Couture! This is what it is all about. Range.
This collection has the clean modern looks on which you would be confidant spending thousands of dollars. This white off shoulder is so thoughtfully cut that you can see they knew just how to get out of the way that fabric. One of the hardest things in design is to just let the medium speak – let it become it’s most beautiful manifestation without complicating it to satisfy your ego.
Then there are the fantasy looks – the dreamy romantics you hope to see gliding down the runways so you can sigh longingly at the beauty.
Finally they wrap it up with this stellar intricately beaded and encrusted gown that just leaves you breathless. This is couture. Stand up and applaud – this is the real deal.
As always feedback would be appreciated 😉
Until next time – Cheers!