When I think Resort I think Vacation. When it’s in the context of fashion I think Glamorous, Chic – Jet Setting Vacation! Some designers satisfy my parameters and others go off that beaten path and use this mid-season as an opportunity to preview their latest vision. Some do both. But I must say that I do tend to lean heavily in favor of those that fulfil my glamour fantasy, especially if it’s set in the south of France or on some fantastic voyage through exotic tropical islands… Bon Voyage!
I have been a sucker for a landscape print ever since I first saw them plastered all over the 1994 Collection by Todd Oldham. These are perfect for resort. I immediately want to grab those killer cat eye glasses and hop on a plane to Antigua.
Resort was invented so that Ortiz could shine. Her collections always feel like a curated wardrobe for the sophisticated jetsetter. She embodies the idea of resort with tropical and chintz prints, off shoulders and ruffles, cottons and billowing silks. I especially love that she has incorporated the fringed shawl into the dresses this time because as much as I love them they feel like a slip sliding burden when you try to wear them. Here you get the look without having to think about where you’re going to hang it when you sit down to dinner.
I didn’t want to like this. Many of the dresses in this collection look like party dresses for 5 year olds. But then as I flipped through the images I liked it more and more. The volume is something I really expected to see more of by now and when I do see it I really appreciate the shapes and sculpture. It’s different from what everyone else is doing and that is refreshing. Plus there are a few that are downright charming like the sleeveless black dress which is really versatile and the white ruffled number which has playful lightness.
These colors, they are not my favorite. Especially when you block them like in the chevron dress or the color blocked furs. Too much pastel all together just conjures bunny rabbits and colored eggs. I cannot be alone in this thinking. However, blush tones and pale blues when alone or dramatically contrasting with charcoal gray or deep reds, plums, or navy – DIVINE! So I can see my way to acceptance when these colors are used. The luxe fabrics, laces, florals and sequins are always a favorite and here they are done tastefully and with a touch of innovation to keep it from getting too “pretty”. The jacket for instance, with the elbow length sleeve and the cascading floral embroidery feels so special, a great balance of modern and vintage. Or the floral print dress worn over the lace long sleeve shirt – the drama that it brings – takes that dress from pretty to edgy with that single pairing. There seem to be a lot of dusty florals in the collections this season which I can’t help but think are coming from the world of interior décor. They are reminiscent of the large floral wall coverings I’ve seen in the last few years, normally interiors take their cues from the runway…perhaps the lines are blurring between the two worlds.
Again here are the florals. A friend of mine once told me that her favorite era of fashion was in the 1970’s when they revived the 1930’s. That’s just how this feels and if I was to make an educated guess – and why not – I’d say that this collection was either inspired by or photographed by the incomparable Paolo Roversi. His aestertic is always dusty muted tones and romantic ultra feminine looks tempered with mystique. Or similarly Sarah Moon another photography virtuoso. The inclusion of yellow ochre and olive green velvet ribbons and caramel and burgundy leather accessories shout out to the 1970’s, along with a the wide lapel jacket in leopard fur. The 30’s is represented in the silhouettes’ long narrow lines, dusty color palette and Erdem signature florals. These two eras combine so well that I can’t help but consider the similar political and cultural revolutions that were happening in those decades. They both had a sexual revolution, both were bucking societal restrictions and listening to scandalous new music, Jazz (30s) and Hard Rock(70’s). I’m certain there are many other common undercurrents that could relate the two which make their pairing here even more provocative.
The beautiful sculpted garments that are the signature style of Zac Pozen are distinctive. He has a way of draping fabric and tailoring that is truly an art form. These women become moving sculpture. Resort or not, it is incredible.
I have been the loving the new designer at Christian Dior. This collection is not my favorite but it was undeniably beautiful and clearly inspired. As I was going through looks I started to get a very strong 2010’s Valentino vibe and kept thinking this is so like what Valentino was doing before the lady designer left. It was then I had a forehead slap moment. Wait, was the new Christian Dior designer the sorely missed female designer of the Valentino team that turned that house around a decade ago? I feel pretty dumb that it took me this long to realize that my favorite half of that infamous duo was now turning around another great house, Christian Dior. Her name is Maria Grazia Chiuri and it all seems so obvious to me now. When she left Valentino you could tell right away, the house just lost it’s luster and hasn’t been nearly the bellweather since she’s moved on. The amazing embroideries, the botanical and mystical themes that celebrate heritage and culture are all Chiuri. That was always my favorite part, now it’s my favorite part of Dior.