This new frontier of showing collections is driving me crazy. Used to be there was a set schedule of when the collections would roll out so you’d know when to check the postings of the shows. Fashion weeks dictated the blocks of time, you could count on Fall fashion to be over a series of 3-4 weeks; New York, Paris, London, Milan etc. Now with so many designers showing off runway, through lookbooks, galleries or private events, it’s anything goes. Fall can show anytime of year – same with Resort, Pre-Fall, Spring and so on until I’m not sure what season I’m looking at until I read the fine print. Not to mention running the risk of missing something incredible because I wasn’t checking in that day. Hopefully soon there will be a resolution to create some order amongst the chaos because I cannot be the only one who feels they may be missing out and certainly the designers cannot afford to be missed! The result I’m afraid is a rather patchy group of blog posts, where I may have missed some, or posted too early for others, leaving me only the option of adding updates to posts as necessary. SO all that being said, here is Pre Fall 2018!
There are two personas that resonate with me here, the ultra feminine, lacy, floaty dresses and the punk rock leopard and plaid. They have somehow combined the two and added in a military nod for good measure and come up with one kooky collection. I cant say I really get what they are going for, perhaps duality? I’m sure they have a whole explanation but it’s not entirely clear from the outside. It does however have some pieces that I love including almost all of those girly dresses and overcoats.
This collection was striking. Each look was a collage of fabrics and prints, texture and shape. They garments have been arranged as if the designer had pieces that he was moving about until he found the right balance – always asymmetric. The eye is forced to move the way it would looking at a piece art with excellent composition.
I am a fan of the rose print. Not gonna lie, especially when it’s mixed with an animal print. The lengths here are also right on, leaving a blurred line between day and evening which for sportwear is key.
I look forward to seeing what GN is going to bring to the table each season. My favorite collections are always the ones with the heavy ethnic reference. Much like the former incarnation of Valentino in the early 2010’s there is always a sort of Russian doll or Eastern European traditional costume element in the clothes that I find kinda irresistible. It’s the modern take of either the traditional sihlouette; like a peasant sleeve or a print; like this oversized rose here as a lace applique – that feels like an honoring of cultures long past. A connecting of generations, a respect for tradition in a disposable fast fashion world.
First of all – STYLING! The styling of this collection is so wonderfully fantastical and reminiscent of classic painted portraiture. Does this creative styling make me like the clothes more…YES, yes it does. Give that photographer a raise. This collection isn’t really what you’d normally find on our page. But its undeniably good. The color story is playful and charming while also managing to be sophisticated. The shapes are structured yet soft and feminine. The contrast isn’t just in the dynamic pallette, but in the fabrications and silhouettes. So maybe this is our style after all, we do love a clever contrast.
Sachin & Babi
This is clean and modern feeling despite all the sequin and fringe. There is a hero in the styling here, where the modern is played up through hair and accessories making the clothes feel more sophisticated and elegant. The killer here has to be the white topped sleeveless gown with the embellishments. Perfect balance of modern utilizing the geometric shape and glamour with those deep colored stone embellishments. Stunning, a best piece of the season.
Oscar De La Renta
I love what is happening at La Renta, there is a definite honoring of the house and it’s done with such vision! There are modern cuts and shapes in modern fabrics that express both grace, elegance and a little humor. This is exactly how a modern version of a classic house should be run. Follow the original ideals while always moving them forward. The tulle dresses are charming and the separates are high style sophisticate. Love!
I am loving the new design direction at Christian Dior. This is the first time since Galliano that the line has been so memorable. This particular collection feels distinguished – as Dior ought to be – and yet youthful. This time there is a touch of that 1960’s London, Mary Quaint style, in the shoes and caps. It’s youthful but in a retro way which is refreshing as most designers appeal to the party girl youthmarket via slick party dresses and overt sexiness. Dior here, feels fresh and bright while retaining a sense of dignity.