Tag Archives: Dennis Basso

Resort 2019

When I think Resort I think Vacation. When it’s in the context of fashion I think Glamorous, Chic – Jet Setting Vacation! Some designers satisfy my parameters and others go off that beaten path and use this mid-season as an opportunity to preview their latest vision. Some do both. But I must say that I do tend to lean heavily in favor of those that fulfil my glamour fantasy, especially if it’s set in the south of France or on some fantastic voyage through exotic tropical islands… Bon Voyage!

Altuzarra

I have been a sucker for a landscape print ever since I first saw them plastered all over the 1994 Collection by Todd Oldham. These are perfect for resort. I immediately want to grab those killer cat eye glasses and hop on a plane to Antigua.

Todd Oldham

 

Johanna Ortiz

Resort was invented so that Ortiz could shine. Her collections always feel like a curated wardrobe for the sophisticated jetsetter. She embodies the idea of resort with tropical and chintz prints, off shoulders and ruffles, cottons and billowing silks. I especially love that she has incorporated the fringed shawl into the dresses this time because as much as I love them they feel like a slip sliding burden when you try to wear them. Here you get the look without having to think about where you’re going to hang it when you sit down to dinner.

Dice Kayek

I didn’t want to like this. Many of the dresses in this collection look like party dresses for 5 year olds.  But then as I flipped through the images I liked it more and more. The volume is something I really expected to see more of by now and when I do see it I really appreciate the shapes and sculpture. It’s different from what everyone else is doing and that is refreshing. Plus there are a few that are downright charming like the sleeveless black dress which is really versatile and the white ruffled number which has playful lightness.

Dennis Basso

These colors, they are not my favorite.  Especially when you block them like in the chevron dress or the color blocked furs. Too much pastel all together just conjures bunny rabbits and colored eggs. I cannot be alone in this thinking. However, blush tones and pale blues when alone or dramatically contrasting with charcoal gray or deep reds, plums, or navy – DIVINE! So I can see my way to acceptance when these colors are used.  The luxe fabrics, laces, florals and sequins are always a favorite and here they are done tastefully and with a touch of innovation to keep it from getting too “pretty”. The jacket for instance, with the  elbow length sleeve and the cascading floral embroidery feels so special, a great balance of modern and vintage. Or the floral print dress worn over the lace long sleeve shirt – the drama that it brings – takes that dress from pretty to edgy with that single pairing. There seem to be a lot of dusty florals in the collections this season which I can’t help but think are coming from the world of interior décor. They are reminiscent of the large floral wall coverings I’ve seen in the last few years, normally interiors take their cues from the runway…perhaps the lines are blurring between the two worlds.

 


Floral wallpaper “murals” have been trending for the last few years

Erdem

Again here are the florals. A friend of mine once told me that her favorite era of fashion was in the 1970’s when they revived the 1930’s. That’s just how this feels and if I was to make an educated guess – and why not – I’d say that this collection was either inspired by or photographed by the incomparable Paolo Roversi. His aestertic is always dusty muted tones and romantic ultra feminine looks tempered with mystique. Or similarly Sarah Moon another photography virtuoso. The inclusion of yellow ochre and olive green velvet ribbons and caramel and burgundy leather accessories shout out to the 1970’s, along with a the wide lapel jacket in leopard fur. The 30’s is represented in the silhouettes’ long narrow lines, dusty color palette and Erdem signature florals. These two eras combine so well that I can’t help but consider the similar political and cultural revolutions that were happening in those decades. They both had a sexual revolution, both were bucking societal restrictions and listening to scandalous new music, Jazz (30s) and Hard Rock(70’s). I’m certain there are many other common undercurrents that could relate the two which make their pairing here even more provocative.


Sara Moon

Paolo Roversi

Zac Pozen

The beautiful sculpted garments that are the signature style of Zac Pozen are distinctive. He has a way of draping fabric and tailoring that is truly an art form. These women become moving sculpture. Resort or not, it is incredible.

 

Christian Dior

I have been the loving the new designer at Christian Dior. This collection is not my favorite but it was undeniably beautiful and clearly inspired. As I was going through looks I started to get a very strong 2010’s Valentino vibe and kept thinking this is so like what Valentino was doing before the lady designer left. It was then I had a forehead slap moment. Wait, was the new Christian Dior designer the sorely missed  female designer of the Valentino team that turned that house around a decade ago? I feel pretty dumb that it took me this long to realize that my favorite half of that infamous duo was now turning around another great house, Christian Dior. Her name is Maria Grazia Chiuri and it all seems so obvious to me now. When she left Valentino you could tell right away, the house just lost it’s luster and hasn’t been nearly the bellweather since she’s moved on. The amazing embroideries, the botanical and mystical themes that celebrate heritage and culture are all Chiuri. That was always my favorite part, now it’s my favorite part of Dior.

Valentino 2015 under Chiuri

 

 


Spring 2018

First of all I want to acknowledge the addition of varied size models on the runways of such designers as Prabal Gurung, Tracy Reece and Christian Sirano. This is a positive step toward normalizing the impossible size standards in the industry. When you hear of size 0 models being told they are too big simply because either the designer has a fetish or they are trying to save money on cutting expensive fabrics, it’s disturbing to say the very least. There have been designers like Jean Paul Gualtier  who have used “regular” people in conjunction with models, but that always seemed more of a gimmick as they often did not sell their clothing in a range of sizes beyond 10. Now we actually have the possibility of adding more sizes into designer collections. I know how frustrating it was for myself and my customers to love a garment, or the aesthetic of a line but have to tell them that they simply didn’t cut anything above a size 10/12. So if you’re 5 pounds over-size 12 – you’re too fat. Bullshit. I hope to see more designers follow suit and offer sizing that includes more people and alienates less. Considering the fashion industry has a tendency to follow trends – I think it’s only a matter of time.

 

Gary Graham

Once again Graham has delivered an oddball bohemian vibe. He sticks to his subdued color palette shown here in Victorian style patterns. Small patterns in soft colors on light fabrics with the anchor of black. I love the insets of lace and pattern in the draped dresses and the modern slouch pant. It all feels sort of dreamy and gypsy like, true to form for Gary Graham.

Coach 1941

Hello 1999 – 2004. This is a Courtney Love love letter. The embellished slip dresses, the 1970’s vintage style leather jackets, the double faced satins in bright and pastel shades of blues and pinks… I cannot help but grin when seeing all of this because this is exactly the type of thing we were making in house at enexile when we had the brick and mortar shop from 1999-2007. We made chinoiserie print A-line ball skirts, brocade coats, satin skirts and hand dyed, hand embellished vintage and one of kind slip dresses. This collection is nostalgic no doubt, but it also feels like we are going down a similar road to Heidi Slimane when he took over at St Laurent and went all Disco/ sleaze /teddyboy/ punk. No doubt it will kill with the kiddies, but I don’t imagine many who have been there once are going to go back, especially it they still have the originals in their closet, like I do!

 

Diesel Black Gold

Well if we needed any more evidence of the sturdy revival of the grunge era this is it. An obvious nod to Mark Jacobs’ Perry Ellis epic Grunge manifesto. I had to include something that honors a moment that helped contribute to my own eclectic personal style.

Vivienne Tam

This is right on my wavelength at the moment. In the last 6 months I have been working on a project which is heavily chinoiserie influenced and have been researching images of cranes as a result. Images exactly like the ones peppered through this collection. There also seems to be a hint of a peruvian or gypsy influence which is interesting and makes sense with the colors and varied fabrics. There was a lot to choose from and many different silhouettes happening but overall I got the sense that it was modern day chinoiserie in modern shapes and styles.

Oliver Theyskens

I want to say that this collection is an interesting take on the 90’s slip dress. A deconstructed yet modernised version of the softer side of the grunge era, highlighted by the ever present monkey boots. But there is more here than just that. It has got serious streetwear attitude and what they are wearing  potential. It’s feminine and tough – which makes it sexy in a very cool, casual way.

Libertine

Heres what I love about Libertine:  they always play up color, there is always a bit of mischief and they love to go over the top with graphics. My favorites as always are the sequins, the mildly cheeky and the items that aren’t so loud you can’t wear them on a regular rotation without them defining you. Basically the practical pieces, (at least practical by libertine standards) that you can wear easily on their own. Like the sequin dress or flashy coat with jeans. Meanwhile always knowing that whenever it strikes your fancy you could wear the sequins and the patterns and the tat all at once! It’s liberating. heh

Christian Dior

There is a reason the French coined the perfect elusive term, “Je ne sais pas” Christian Dior is solidly back to upholding and representing this phrase for French fashion. There is a coolness and edge that is decidedly and impossibly French. Dior hasn’t been this cool since Galliano.

Dries Van Noten

Noten consistently cultivates colors and prints into collections of the most impressively unique and chic pieces around. The cuts and shapes are always soft and easy, nothing strained or tight – it’s so much easier to be cool and graceful when you aren’t tied up in your clothes. It’s also so refreshing to view his collections as they always stand apart from whatever the trends are, the latest thing the hottest whatever. It doesn’t touch him. He doesn’t need a gimmick when he has this much style. Thankfully for the rest of us he shares.

Oscar De la Renta

This collection impressed me more for the designers ability to channel De La Renta himself, than for the clothes. They have captured the essence of the old house perfectly while adding in a fresh, original and modern evolution for the line.

Maticevski

Maticevski straddle the line between abstract and refined. The clothes are always pushing forward through the exploration of volume and form. This time there were some looks that really didn’t work but you can see the progress being made. They are inventors, pioneers and always fascinating.

Dolce & Gabbana

After clicking through countless uninspired or conversely overwrought collections I was beginning to think that this season was wrapping up with a thud. But then I saw this. Dolce & Gabanna has never let me down and this was no exception. This collection was full of bright colors and pattern, timeless black suits, sequins covered flashes of brilliance and chic feminine dresses. And the shoes! You will never see the models in the same shoe on this runway as every shoe is considered a part of the overall look, never an afterthought. There are no afterthoughts! The bags, the jewelry all fit the theme of the outfit. I have seen other designers try but no one can do what they do, no one can replicate the magic world they have created.