Tag Archives: Dice Kayek

Spring 2019 RTW

The buyer must be sweating it this season. As runway after runway sees models stomping down in experimental looks, abstract conceptualism and other evidence of designers either playing with fabric manipulation, expressing political opinions and outrage, going neo modernist and anything else you can think of. The idea of expression at any cost is rampant even when the cost is wearability and sellability. Neiman Marcus, Bergdorfs and even Nordstrom are going to be wringing their hands looking for the glamour for their society ladies and the wardrobes for the modern woman. Combing through all the art looking for viable fashion. In a retail environment where businesses are closing left and right can designers really afford to be artists and revolutionaries? I would argue there needs to be a balance of art and commerce where the designers that are steadfast will be seeing the rewards while the myriad others who let expression overcome practicality fall to the wayside. With so many voices screaming and clawing to be heard it all drowns each other out. Hopefully next season some of these will soften and try to incorporate their point of view into the clothes with more savvy, after all isn’t it the reflection of our times that turns clothes into fashion in the first place? But then again what better reflection of our current cultural climate than chaos?

Nili Lotan

Nothing exciting here, no newest and latest, no cutting edge or attitude. Just wearable, well made clothes that everyone can wear in real life. Practical and good. Thank God someone is doing it.

Carolina Herrera

There is a classic 1940s Hollywood glamour to this collection that is irresistible. The full skirted dresses, the bright colors and silky fabrics all harken back to the era of I Love Lucy when they were in Hollywood. Lounging by the pool and sneaking around the Beverly Hills hotel looking for movie stars. A fitting retro collection from the new designer, as Herrera has always been synonymous with classic, sophisticated glamour.

Petar Petrov

This is the first time I have taken notice of this designer and I’m hoping I haven’t missed too much. These clothes are wearable, they look comfortable, they are practical and they have a chic ease to them that make them extremely versatile. Who doesn’t need that in their wardrobe?

Libertine

At Libertine more is always more. This season was no exception. Patches made it onto just about everything – even stockings which has got to be a first – and pattern and color were on everything. I usually tend to like their less appliqued items and go for the more artistic pieces. This time my favorites were the painterly pieces and colorful graphic prints. How awesome would it be to pick one standout piece to add to your wardrobe from each season, have a curated collection of Libertine in the closet? A girl can dream – in color!

Moschino

I’m not including this collection because I love the clothes. More often than not Jeremy Scott goes way too gimmicky and overboard but this time… Genius. The idea of making the sketch – literally making the sketch is brilliant. I don’t doubt that these items will be highly sought after and collectible for may years to come. This is an iconic collection. Bravo.

Dice Kayek

Sure there is a doll clothes reference here, but the silhouettes are so lovely. The bright satins and crisp edged sinuous lines are striking and feminine yet strong. I love this resolution of ultra feminine shapes and strong defined edges. The curves of the full ruffles, waves of fabric and the conflict of those elements is masterfully controlled.

Paco Rabanne

As a longtime fan of the national dress of India this collection is a delight. It feels like the designer has taken that strong influence and sprinkled in some grunge shapes and styling and created a hip, fun and youthful collection showcasing the rich textures and colors of India. So great!

Kes

This is the first time I’ve noticed this designer, and it’s not that the clothes are that special, but as a group there is something so effortless and just cool about them. There is an understated confidence happening that feels inviting. For some reason I see the cool girl in these clothes – the Lisa Bonet  type. That girl who just knows exactly who she is and doesn’t need nor does she care to explain.

Ann Demeulemeester

This collection was full of fluid, flowing and dramatic pieces that have a dark romance. The styling is always theatrical but underneath all the theatre, the pieces are there. The stars of the show are the long button down shirts which work as dresses, jackets and…shirts! Remarkably practical and functional items that add a touch of that romance while allowing comfort and ease. There are also some breathtaking long lightweight coats that are perfect for adding instant drama.

Rochas

Good solid collection of uptown, chic clothing for the evolved fashionable woman. Some interesting silhouette tweaking as in the pale blush dress with the bows, and the LBD that make them feel modern yet classic.

 

Maticevski

This designer has been a favorite for some time for their voluminous shapes and lovely exaggerated ruffles. Ruffles aren’t often modern feeling but the manipulation is so subtle and feels so natural – like water over rocks or fabric caught in an uplifting breeze yet the fabrics are not light and full of actual movement they are stable – like a moment stopped in time. The result is like a visual poem.

Givenchy

There have been a few changes over at Givenchy where this time last year it was being designed by Ricardo Tisci.  He designed a bit on the dark side with themes like Vampires and Victorians and has always had a gothic undertone – in some of those cases overtone. He was a visionary and designed intricate, edgy, luxury garments that more than qualified him as a master. This newer designer, Clare Waight Keller, still has an edge to her design yet it’s not quite edgy and definitely not gothic. Personally I miss the drama of Tisci’s collections but I cannot dispute the fact that Keller is good. Maybe even better than good. Her Givenchy may not have the drama but it does have the glamour and upholds the sense that this woman – the Givenchy woman – is a woman of status and distinction. The star of this collection is the genus crystal shrug/cap/caplet whatever it is, little layering piece. I have never seen that before and it’s certainly a piece that is versatile (if you are in the high society world) while still being special. Looking forward to seeing what other genius pieces she will design.

Dries Van Noten

What can I say about Noten that I haven’t already gushed? That he is my idea of the quintessential French designer – always chic, always totally unique and not giving a shit about trends. Always perfectly balanced design regarding proportion and fit. Always a strong point of view with a stunning use of color and print. Here again, he pulls off the definition of “jen ne se quios” with cool confidence.

Haider Ackermann

As a woman who has always borrowed from the wardrobes of men this collection totally spoke to me. The looks were designed to be shared between the men and women and were designed to work for either. The prints were beautiful yet masculine, the cuts modern and perfectly tailored as usual except this time with a few more straight lines in the jackets and pants. Which only makes them look even more modern. The pops of bright yellow and green along with the ever-present black and white and the hint of a metallic seem to be a signature of late and come together seamlessly, no pun intended.

Oscar de la Renta

Hooooow can I express how much I love what is happening at the house of Oscar? It is everything that got me excited about fashion in the first place. It is clothing that is transformative. In the tradition of the great houses of Paris in the heyday of couture, these garments are simultaneously elegant, expressive, sophisticated and exquisitely crafted. These are clothes that those who are lucky enough to own them – or even borrow will instantly realize what an experience it can be to be dressed in the best of the best. The feeling of confidence, pride and transformation.



Resort 2019

When I think Resort I think Vacation. When it’s in the context of fashion I think Glamorous, Chic – Jet Setting Vacation! Some designers satisfy my parameters and others go off that beaten path and use this mid-season as an opportunity to preview their latest vision. Some do both. But I must say that I do tend to lean heavily in favor of those that fulfil my glamour fantasy, especially if it’s set in the south of France or on some fantastic voyage through exotic tropical islands… Bon Voyage!

Altuzarra

I have been a sucker for a landscape print ever since I first saw them plastered all over the 1994 Collection by Todd Oldham. These are perfect for resort. I immediately want to grab those killer cat eye glasses and hop on a plane to Antigua.

Todd Oldham

 

Johanna Ortiz

Resort was invented so that Ortiz could shine. Her collections always feel like a curated wardrobe for the sophisticated jetsetter. She embodies the idea of resort with tropical and chintz prints, off shoulders and ruffles, cottons and billowing silks. I especially love that she has incorporated the fringed shawl into the dresses this time because as much as I love them they feel like a slip sliding burden when you try to wear them. Here you get the look without having to think about where you’re going to hang it when you sit down to dinner.

Dice Kayek

I didn’t want to like this. Many of the dresses in this collection look like party dresses for 5 year olds.  But then as I flipped through the images I liked it more and more. The volume is something I really expected to see more of by now and when I do see it I really appreciate the shapes and sculpture. It’s different from what everyone else is doing and that is refreshing. Plus there are a few that are downright charming like the sleeveless black dress which is really versatile and the white ruffled number which has playful lightness.

Dennis Basso

These colors, they are not my favorite.  Especially when you block them like in the chevron dress or the color blocked furs. Too much pastel all together just conjures bunny rabbits and colored eggs. I cannot be alone in this thinking. However, blush tones and pale blues when alone or dramatically contrasting with charcoal gray or deep reds, plums, or navy – DIVINE! So I can see my way to acceptance when these colors are used.  The luxe fabrics, laces, florals and sequins are always a favorite and here they are done tastefully and with a touch of innovation to keep it from getting too “pretty”. The jacket for instance, with the  elbow length sleeve and the cascading floral embroidery feels so special, a great balance of modern and vintage. Or the floral print dress worn over the lace long sleeve shirt – the drama that it brings – takes that dress from pretty to edgy with that single pairing. There seem to be a lot of dusty florals in the collections this season which I can’t help but think are coming from the world of interior décor. They are reminiscent of the large floral wall coverings I’ve seen in the last few years, normally interiors take their cues from the runway…perhaps the lines are blurring between the two worlds.

 


Floral wallpaper “murals” have been trending for the last few years

Erdem

Again here are the florals. A friend of mine once told me that her favorite era of fashion was in the 1970’s when they revived the 1930’s. That’s just how this feels and if I was to make an educated guess – and why not – I’d say that this collection was either inspired by or photographed by the incomparable Paolo Roversi. His aestertic is always dusty muted tones and romantic ultra feminine looks tempered with mystique. Or similarly Sarah Moon another photography virtuoso. The inclusion of yellow ochre and olive green velvet ribbons and caramel and burgundy leather accessories shout out to the 1970’s, along with a the wide lapel jacket in leopard fur. The 30’s is represented in the silhouettes’ long narrow lines, dusty color palette and Erdem signature florals. These two eras combine so well that I can’t help but consider the similar political and cultural revolutions that were happening in those decades. They both had a sexual revolution, both were bucking societal restrictions and listening to scandalous new music, Jazz (30s) and Hard Rock(70’s). I’m certain there are many other common undercurrents that could relate the two which make their pairing here even more provocative.


Sara Moon

Paolo Roversi

Zac Pozen

The beautiful sculpted garments that are the signature style of Zac Pozen are distinctive. He has a way of draping fabric and tailoring that is truly an art form. These women become moving sculpture. Resort or not, it is incredible.

 

Christian Dior

I have been the loving the new designer at Christian Dior. This collection is not my favorite but it was undeniably beautiful and clearly inspired. As I was going through looks I started to get a very strong 2010’s Valentino vibe and kept thinking this is so like what Valentino was doing before the lady designer left. It was then I had a forehead slap moment. Wait, was the new Christian Dior designer the sorely missed  female designer of the Valentino team that turned that house around a decade ago? I feel pretty dumb that it took me this long to realize that my favorite half of that infamous duo was now turning around another great house, Christian Dior. Her name is Maria Grazia Chiuri and it all seems so obvious to me now. When she left Valentino you could tell right away, the house just lost it’s luster and hasn’t been nearly the bellweather since she’s moved on. The amazing embroideries, the botanical and mystical themes that celebrate heritage and culture are all Chiuri. That was always my favorite part, now it’s my favorite part of Dior.

Valentino 2015 under Chiuri

 

 


Fall 2017 Favorites

When the first of the Fall 2017 shows stared rolling out I was excited to see that the colors I had been obsessing over the last few months were represented. Plenty of burnt orange, mustard yellow and navy blue playing together among the collections. And gold – gold was everywhere, especially paired with black, (which takes me back to my jr high dance so I don’t know about that one) There also seems to be more mixing of textures such as satins and wools paired together.  I was surprised however when the Paris collections began and there was a dominance of baby blue and pink. Weren’t those the colors for last year? I can’t figure that out other than perhaps they warmed up to the idea(?) though the French are not known for following so it’s perplexing. Regardless, there is always immense diversity which is the very best part. So many choices. Isn’t it wonderful to have CHOICES!

I also can’t help but notice a deliberate pandering to the millennial crowd. Heres a tip – putting Doc Martins on the model does not transform that dress. Nor does that tired slouchy knit hat or the alternately so ugly it’s cool socks with sandals trick. Just make the clothes and leave out the gimmicks please.

Alice + Olivia

I always want to love Alice + Olivia because in theory it very much my personal taste. A little rockabilly and a little cheeky with some sparkle and girlishness all mixed together. Yet oftentimes the collection seems to just miss the mark. This time around there were a more than a few that hit and it’s my pleasure to add them to the seasons list of favorites. Particularly the camo set minus the pants whose length is bothersome, but the top and jacket are awesome. See what I mean?  Just a little off. The bird skirt is great too though I’d prefer it with a tank, cropped jacket and a hip slung belt. The white sweater and skirt are perfect and I would put that on right now, go get some coffee and be admired for my easy cool style.The two dresses are lovely especially the last A-line allover print which is one of my favorite of the season so far. So nice to have a dress that you can’t see thorough!

 

Fay

I must say that I like this because it looks like my wardrobe from when I was in my early 20’s. Plaid bondage pants that I used to wear with oversized sweaters, box pleat mini skirts with cropped jackets. Snake skin pants – if I could’ve found a snake skin jacket a’la Nick Cage in Wild at Heart I would have been all over it.

This reemerging of the trends from 20 years ago goes back to a post I wrote regarding the cycle of fashion, where I theorized that the designers now taking over the houses are looking back to their youth for inspiration on their current collections. This is how we end up revisiting eras 20-30 years later. It simply takes that long for most designers to work their way up to the top, and when they do, they are nostalgic for a simpler time.

 

Cinq A Sept

I love the colors and prints and the way they have been styled to compliment each other in such a creative and unexpected way. Like the sky blue and brown coat with the blueberry and black dress or the peach cardigan with the bubblegum pink and burnt orange dress. There is such life in these colors that the clothes really become like candy to the eye.

 

Dice Kayek

There aren’t many designers playing with volume right now – at least not as many as there should be. Volume feels like the next big thing so I’m interested to see more from this designer going forward.

 

Gary Graham

Although this particular collection isn’t my style, I think it’s distinctive and uniquely cool. The layering of knits with brocades and leather is intriguing and unexpected yet it works. The prints are all working together with textures and embellished pieces to create this modern bohemian vibe that is very provocative. My favorite is the first look where the embellished shirts are layered together and dressed down with the casual pant. so much is happening but none of it fights – it’s so harmonic. Such a distinct voice here. Love that.

 

Jil Sander Navy

Wait…This is Jil Sander? But it didn’t bore me out of my chair. Intriguing.

 

Ann Demeulemeester

What can I say other than they are designing for the modern day goth. This is the goth aesthetic. Romantic, dramatic, emotional dark and complicated. The teenage goth in me can’t help but love that. I also love that when they do incorporate color they tend to use it as a dutch painter might – contrasting deep hues with barely there tints. Now that may not be what others see. Perhaps they see modern in the consistent black and white palette, or maybe edgy due to the interesting draping and choices of textures and creative styling. Demeulemeester straddles a line where costume meets contemporary always resulting in a performance worth catching.

Hiader Ackermann

SO I have to admit I was disappointed to see a predominance of black this season from Ackermann. I adore when he uses color but here there was only a small touch of blue – vibrant though it was. He did have his own take on the black and gold trend which was masterful, naturally. where the gold was painted in like a vein along a few choice garments and it was powerfully chic. Still a myriad of impressively tailored shapes and of course the exquisite jackets. There are 2 looks in here from the menswear show that I had to include because those pants are killer and that teal blue velvet is stunning.

 

 

Maticevski

My take on this designer to date has been that they are about silhouette and volume. That is still true, but now they are crossing into sculptural design and the result is at times breathtaking. There are two looks in this collection – the white gown with the high slit and the black gown – that are so sculptural that the model in clothes actually looks like a sculpture. When fashion and art meet it isn’t always pretty, nor does it need to be by any means! But here truly, it is nothing short of beautiful.

Dolce & Gabbana

It’s funny how when I see the Dolce and Gabbana collections now I can’t help but think of what is showing at Gucci. There is certainly a shared affinity there, yet when I see Dolce I hear myself saying (out loud to no one) “See! This is how you do it!” There is a restraint at Dolce that has come with experience. They have the ideas and they know they have a lifetime to share them. They don’t have Gucci’s urgency to shove them all into a few dozen looks every season. I never would have used the word restraint in the same sentence as Dolce and Gabbana prior to this, just goes to show that context is everything. In any case, this is how it’s done. Allover sequins and insanely embellished accessories can be sophisticated and womanly. They don’t have to be hipster and loud. Adjust the volume back to 10, it doesn’t always need to go to 11.

Gucci

Well this time they take a bit of a Wes Anderson turn. I’m realizing that the Anderson type has always been there and feel silly that I didn’t notice before. Maybe now the dust is settling I can see the sweatbands and peter pan collars of The Royal Tenenbaums. In my defense there is just so much to see. There is less however of the trompe l’oiel, the snakes and crabs. Still animals though and still sequins, florals, prints and plaids, stripes and trimmings and satin and bows. It’s a lot. I still like all the glorious pattern mixing and over embellishment, but truthfully the excitement is wearing off. There is no more shock, no surprises. Now that wouldn’t even factor in to a collection normally, but when you start out so big and you keep at it, it can either get stale and the novelty wears off, or you go bigger or change it up drastically. So far it seems they are headed for the first of those. But we’ll see. Perhaps there is something up Michele’s sleeve…

 

Naeem Khan

Oh my god if Liza and Cher had a lovechild. These are some far out spangly getups. I especially enjoy that Khan really went for it with the styling too. Just because the dress in covered in beads and feathers doesn’t mean you can load on piles of necklaces and enormous earrings good Lord! That being said though there are some gowns in here that I could see showing up in a museum one day, like the one with the (is that a) bee belt. That’s a work of art.  It takes a big personality to pull off one of these outfits.  If you can, please do because we need this kind of go big glamour in our fashion.

Marchesa

I love the Celadon green, the cherry red, the chinoiserie, the trims of velvet ribbon and the fringe. It’s old Hollywood spit shined and dolled up. Hard to resist all that shimmer and shine.

Rochas

I really like this collection. The palette is paired down to basics and the prints are bold yet filtered into simple shapes. They are simply elegant and chic, with some great options for holiday.

Christian Dior

I was surprised to see the theme of outer space coming up so often during the shows. It’s not often spaceships as it is more celestial. It’s hard to make a spaceship chic. But here was more of a continuation from the tarot influenced collection of last season, with more of a focus on the moon and stars. Normally I would lean more in favor of the sparkly, embellished options, but here I really enjoyed the solid offerings. Where the cuts and shapes were the stars – no pun intended. The shapes brought to mind what Dior became famous for, new silhouettes and divine tailoring. These harken back to a time of simplicity and elegance with out all the fuss and tat. Perhaps seeing season after season of glittering sheer dresses covered in applique of everything from animals to, well spaceships, has taken its toll. These modern, clean elegant pieces say so much more and have more substance.

Alberta Ferretti

Pretty Pretty Pretty!!! A sucker for a flowing floaty dress. The colors are soft but there is a mystique to these clothes, like they are hiding a secret about the wearer. Film Noir clothes if Noir was in the 1930’s instead of the 40’s.

J. Mendel

From the first look I sucked in my breath. Oooohh! I love this. Love the textures together and the tiers and the black beading on the navy it all seemed so regal. The looks are grand and elegant and you can sense the richness and quality. These are heirloom garments.

Reem Acra

The play of textures and volume while done with luxe rich fabrics and jewels is nothing short of regal. These garments evoke an aura of royalty in their execution of cut and form and fabrication. The fabrics are heavy and dense and you can imagine the decadent feel of them. The way she has created her shapes which have a avant-garde origin yet somehow seem completely organic. Only a master of draping can take volume to this extreme yet have it look so sophisticated with not a hint of pretentiousness. If you have ever had the opportunity to wear something from Reem Acra than you know these clothes are transformative. I can only imagine how amazing this collection would feel to wear. Queen for a day indeed.