Tag Archives: Dior

Couture Fall 2017

I didn’t even bother to do a review of Couture last season because there were so few offerings and of them not enough favorites to warrant a post. Typically Fall has more players and also more looks per show, so this time around we are in business! Here are the favorites from Fall 2017.

Iris van Herpen

How cool is this? It makes me think of 3D printing. Art in fashion goes hand in hand with couture and this is such a beautiful expression of line and form.

Schiaparelli

This is the show I look forward to the most during couture. They have always been a couture titian because they lean toward the artistic side while still being wearable. There is always a nod to surrealism which somehow goes hand in hand with couture in my mind. Perhaps because its such an easy transition from surreal to avant garde which also seems to find an outlet in couture. It was Picasso who was honored this time around which was not as interesting to me but I’m sure will find an audience with the buyers. It also features some beautiful an unexpected color combinations like this burnt orange and burgundy. And I loved the addition of the ultra sheer, net opera gloves. This group did not have as many of the exciting surrealist moments but I still enjoyed the masterly crafted gowns and moments of artistic expression when they came.

Dior

There is something happening over at Dior that is silently exciting. Its been a real snooze over there ever since the ousting of Galliano but in the last few seasons a new designer has taken the helm and is slowly breathing life back into the line. The clothes are reserved and not flashy at all which is why I say, “silent” there is nothing loud here. It’s all very graceful and elegant, sophisticated and refined. It’s beautiful and I’m so excited to see more and more. These full skirted coats are an affectionate nod to classic Dior. Dior was all about playing up the feminine while maintaining grace. These full coats have graceful movement and feminine sensibilities which makes them perfect. These are going to start a big trend over the next few seasons. There were many other reworked looks from the archives  including the epic petal ball gown from the 1950’s shown here in grays with ruffles rather than beads, not a success for me but the reference is distinct. There are also pinched waists in fitted jackets and draped, off shoulders here and there. So much respect for the history of the house which I love to see. It’s not so much about some new hot shot designer as it is revitalizing the integrity of a revered and beloved label. I suspect Dior will be the new Bellwether now that Valentino has run out of steam.

 

 

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Fall 2014 Couture Review

Its a well known fact that couture has suffered in the last few decades. The glorious wealth that was the lifeblood of the houses has dwindled dramatically. Those houses that have continued to offer a couture collection do so cautiously and as a result couture is no longer the showcase it once was. Sure there have always been elegant sophisticated offerings but historically couture represented the high art of fashion.  The evolution has been of the fittest and we have seen the shows become more for the clients and less for the designer. Sad for the artists but good for the investor.  It seems that the transition from fantasy to reality has changed the perception a bit as well. At least for myself who now sees a couture purchase as a commitment and an investment.  More so than ever, it is about truly outstanding garments that do one or both of the following things: Make a statement and Encapsulate a persona.

Giambattista Valli

Old Hollywood meet young Hollywood. It’s not often where you see clothes that would work on such different types as Rihanna and Cate Blanchett – but here they are. This is “Hollywood” in the most flattering meaning possible. These are Lucille Ball by the pool in her heyday or Claudette Colbert gliding into 21 for dinner with her latest producer. I love this. Gorgeous!

Giambattista Valli

Elie Saab

Saab always shows red carpet gowns and dresses in both couture and Ready to Wear. He has it down to a science and is instantly recognizable by any in the know. This dress however is practically a departure from the beaded intricate looks for which he is known. This ombre firecracker is stunningly simple, dramatic, sophisticated and daring.  Normally I would shy away from something as telling of an era like ombre, (which could end up being the synthesizer of fashion trends) but here it is done with such subtlety that it looks natural. Lovely.

Elie Saab

Ulyana Sergeenko

German Bombshell. This is like if Disney did a spy thriller. Totally dramatic, totally sexy, pure fantasy. Modern Day Garbo with just the right amount of edge. The fetish folks will dig it, the Retro Girls will covet it and the glamourous will applaud it. Someone call Dita Von Tease!

Ulyana Sergeenko

Armani Prive

Speaking of fetish right? There seems to be an element of the underground being celebrated in this collection. The fishnet swing coat and rhinestone encrusted netting are so elevated here that they almost slip under the radar. The result is a suspiciously kinky and sexy story from the usually tame Armani. Not a beige in the bunch nor a pastel to be seen.  And those shoes – the shoes are devastating! Such a great interpretation. It’s wonderful to see this genre being given an elegant treatment.

Armani Privé

Dior

I will never look at Dior with the googly eyes I had for them when it was designed by Galliano – no matter what he was an incredible creative.  That being said, I can almost see his influence (at long last) creeping in with the addition of these frock coats. Perhaps someone over there is looking into the archives? Nonetheless, these coats – the fantastical frocks and the practical navy’s, are great. They hold their own despite not really seeming to belong to the same collection. Maybe the frock coats are just an example of the evolution which led to the modern navy looks on the left? I’m not sure the path but the outcome offers some lovely, totally chic staples. That first coat is so solid and so necessary that it’s like a smack in the forehead.  And the second – there is so much personality in that coat that you don’t even need the girl.

Dior

Valentino

Couture! This is what it is all about. Range.

This collection has the clean modern looks on which you would be confidant spending thousands of dollars. This white off shoulder is so thoughtfully cut that you can see they knew just how to get out of the way that fabric. One of the hardest things in design is to just let the medium speak – let it become it’s most beautiful manifestation without complicating it to satisfy your ego.

Valentino 1

Then there are the fantasy looks – the dreamy romantics you hope to see gliding down the runways so you can sigh longingly at the beauty.

Valentino 2

Finally they wrap it up with this stellar intricately beaded and encrusted gown that just leaves you breathless. This is couture.  Stand up and applaud – this is the real deal.

Valentino 3

As always feedback would be appreciated 😉

Until next time – Cheers!