First of all I want to acknowledge the addition of varied size models on the runways of such designers as Prabal Gurung, Tracy Reece and Christian Sirano. This is a positive step toward normalizing the impossible size standards in the industry. When you hear of size 0 models being told they are too big simply because either the designer has a fetish or they are trying to save money on cutting expensive fabrics, it’s disturbing to say the very least. There have been designers like Jean Paul Gualtier who have used “regular” people in conjunction with models, but that always seemed more of a gimmick as they often did not sell their clothing in a range of sizes beyond 10. Now we actually have the possibility of adding more sizes into designer collections. I know how frustrating it was for myself and my customers to love a garment, or the aesthetic of a line but have to tell them that they simply didn’t cut anything above a size 10/12. So if you’re 5 pounds over-size 12 – you’re too fat. Bullshit. I hope to see more designers follow suit and offer sizing that includes more people and alienates less. Considering the fashion industry has a tendency to follow trends – I think it’s only a matter of time.
Once again Graham has delivered an oddball bohemian vibe. He sticks to his subdued color palette shown here in Victorian style patterns. Small patterns in soft colors on light fabrics with the anchor of black. I love the insets of lace and pattern in the draped dresses and the modern slouch pant. It all feels sort of dreamy and gypsy like, true to form for Gary Graham.
Hello 1999 – 2004. This is a Courtney Love love letter. The embellished slip dresses, the 1970’s vintage style leather jackets, the double faced satins in bright and pastel shades of blues and pinks… I cannot help but grin when seeing all of this because this is exactly the type of thing we were making in house at enexile when we had the brick and mortar shop from 1999-2007. We made chinoiserie print A-line ball skirts, brocade coats, satin skirts and hand dyed, hand embellished vintage and one of kind slip dresses. This collection is nostalgic no doubt, but it also feels like we are going down a similar road to Heidi Slimane when he took over at St Laurent and went all Disco/ sleaze /teddyboy/ punk. No doubt it will kill with the kiddies, but I don’t imagine many who have been there once are going to go back, especially it they still have the originals in their closet, like I do!
Diesel Black Gold
Well if we needed any more evidence of the sturdy revival of the grunge era this is it. An obvious nod to Mark Jacobs’ Perry Ellis epic Grunge manifesto. I had to include something that honors a moment that helped contribute to my own eclectic personal style.
This is right on my wavelength at the moment. In the last 6 months I have been working on a project which is heavily chinoiserie influenced and have been researching images of cranes as a result. Images exactly like the ones peppered through this collection. There also seems to be a hint of a peruvian or gypsy influence which is interesting and makes sense with the colors and varied fabrics. There was a lot to choose from and many different silhouettes happening but overall I got the sense that it was modern day chinoiserie in modern shapes and styles.
I want to say that this collection is an interesting take on the 90’s slip dress. A deconstructed yet modernised version of the softer side of the grunge era, highlighted by the ever present monkey boots. But there is more here than just that. It has got serious streetwear attitude and what they are wearing potential. It’s feminine and tough – which makes it sexy in a very cool, casual way.
Heres what I love about Libertine: they always play up color, there is always a bit of mischief and they love to go over the top with graphics. My favorites as always are the sequins, the mildly cheeky and the items that aren’t so loud you can’t wear them on a regular rotation without them defining you. Basically the practical pieces, (at least practical by libertine standards) that you can wear easily on their own. Like the sequin dress or flashy coat with jeans. Meanwhile always knowing that whenever it strikes your fancy you could wear the sequins and the patterns and the tat all at once! It’s liberating. heh
There is a reason the French coined the perfect elusive term, “Je ne sais pas” Christian Dior is solidly back to upholding and representing this phrase for French fashion. There is a coolness and edge that is decidedly and impossibly French. Dior hasn’t been this cool since Galliano.
Dries Van Noten
Noten consistently cultivates colors and prints into collections of the most impressively unique and chic pieces around. The cuts and shapes are always soft and easy, nothing strained or tight – it’s so much easier to be cool and graceful when you aren’t tied up in your clothes. It’s also so refreshing to view his collections as they always stand apart from whatever the trends are, the latest thing the hottest whatever. It doesn’t touch him. He doesn’t need a gimmick when he has this much style. Thankfully for the rest of us he shares.
Oscar De la Renta
This collection impressed me more for the designers ability to channel De La Renta himself, than for the clothes. They have captured the essence of the old house perfectly while adding in a fresh, original and modern evolution for the line.
Maticevski straddle the line between abstract and refined. The clothes are always pushing forward through the exploration of volume and form. This time there were some looks that really didn’t work but you can see the progress being made. They are inventors, pioneers and always fascinating.
Dolce & Gabbana
After clicking through countless uninspired or conversely overwrought collections I was beginning to think that this season was wrapping up with a thud. But then I saw this. Dolce & Gabanna has never let me down and this was no exception. This collection was full of bright colors and pattern, timeless black suits, sequins covered flashes of brilliance and chic feminine dresses. And the shoes! You will never see the models in the same shoe on this runway as every shoe is considered a part of the overall look, never an afterthought. There are no afterthoughts! The bags, the jewelry all fit the theme of the outfit. I have seen other designers try but no one can do what they do, no one can replicate the magic world they have created.