Tag Archives: Dolce and Gabbana

Fall 2017 Favorites

 

When the first of the Fall 2017 shows stared rolling out I was excited to see that the colors I had been obsessing over the last few months were represented. Plenty of burnt orange, mustard yellow and navy blue playing together among the collections. And gold – gold was everywhere, especially paired with black, (which takes me back to my jr high dance so I don’t know about that one) There also seems to be more mixing of textures such as satins and wools paired together.  I was surprised however when the Paris collections began and there was a dominance of baby blue and pink. Weren’t those the colors for last year? I can’t figure that out other than perhaps they warmed up to the idea(?) though the French are not known for following so it’s perplexing. Regardless, there is always immense diversity which is the very best part. So many choices. Isn’t it wonderful to have CHOICES!

I also can’t help but notice a deliberate pandering to the millennial crowd. Heres a tip – putting Doc Martins on the model does not transform that dress. Nor does that tired slouchy knit hat or the alternately so ugly it’s cool socks with sandals trick. Just make the clothes and leave out the gimmicks please.

Alice + Olivia

I always want to love Alice + Olivia because in theory it very much my personal taste. A little rockabilly and a little cheeky with some sparkle and girlishness all mixed together. Yet oftentimes the collection seems to just miss the mark. This time around there were a more than a few that hit and it’s my pleasure to add them to the seasons list of favorites. Particularly the camo set minus the pants whose length is bothersome, but the top and jacket are awesome. See what I mean?  Just a little off. The bird skirt is great too though I’d prefer it with a tank, cropped jacket and a hip slung belt. The white sweater and skirt are perfect and I would put that on right now, go get some coffee and be admired for my easy cool style.The two dresses are lovely especially the last A-line allover print which is one of my favorite of the season so far. So nice to have a dress that you can’t see thorough!

 

Fay

I must say that I like this because it looks like my wardrobe from when I was in my early 20’s. Plaid bondage pants that I used to wear with oversized sweaters, box pleat mini skirts with cropped jackets. Snake skin pants – if I could’ve found a snake skin jacket a’la Nick Cage in Wild at Heart I would have been all over it.

This reemerging of the trends from 20 years ago goes back to a post I wrote regarding the cycle of fashion, where I theorized that the designers now taking over the houses are looking back to their youth for inspiration on their current collections. This is how we end up revisiting eras 20-30 years later. It simply takes that long for most designers to work their way up to the top, and when they do, they are nostalgic for a simpler time.

 

Cinq A Sept

I love the colors and prints and the way they have been styled to compliment each other in such a creative and unexpected way. Like the sky blue and brown coat with the blueberry and black dress or the peach cardigan with the bubblegum pink and burnt orange dress. There is such life in these colors that the clothes really become like candy to the eye.

 

Dice Kayek

There aren’t many designers playing with volume right now – at least not as many as there should be. Volume feels like the next big thing so I’m interested to see more from this designer going forward.

 

Gary Graham

Although this particular collection isn’t my style, I think it’s distinctive and uniquely cool. The layering of knits with brocades and leather is intriguing and unexpected yet it works. The prints are all working together with textures and embellished pieces to create this modern bohemian vibe that is very provocative. My favorite is the first look where the embellished shirts are layered together and dressed down with the casual pant. so much is happening but none of it fights – it’s so harmonic. Such a distinct voice here. Love that.

 

Jil Sander Navy

Wait…This is Jil Sander? But it didn’t bore me out of my chair. Intriguing.

 

Ann Demeulemeester

What can I say other than they are designing for the modern day goth. This is the goth aesthetic. Romantic, dramatic, emotional dark and complicated. The teenage goth in me can’t help but love that. I also love that when they do incorporate color they tend to use it as a dutch painter might – contrasting deep hues with barely there tints. Now that may not be what others see. Perhaps they see modern in the consistent black and white palette, or maybe edgy due to the interesting draping and choices of textures and creative styling. Demeulemeester straddles a line where costume meets contemporary always resulting in a performance worth catching.

Hiader Ackermann

SO I have to admit I was disappointed to see a predominance of black this season from Ackermann. I adore when he uses color but here there was only a small touch of blue – vibrant though it was. He did have his own take on the black and gold trend which was masterful, naturally. where the gold was painted in like a vein along a few choice garments and it was powerfully chic. Still a myriad of impressively tailored shapes and of course the exquisite jackets. There are 2 looks in here from the menswear show that I had to include because those pants are killer and that teal blue velvet is stunning.

 

 

Maticevski

My take on this designer to date has been that they are about silhouette and volume. That is still true, but now they are crossing into sculptural design and the result is at times breathtaking. There are two looks in this collection – the white gown with the high slit and the black gown – that are so sculptural that the model in clothes actually looks like a sculpture. When fashion and art meet it isn’t always pretty, nor does it need to be by any means! But here truly, it is nothing short of beautiful.

Dolce & Gabbana

It’s funny how when I see the Dolce and Gabbana collections now I can’t help but think of what is showing at Gucci. There is certainly a shared affinity there, yet when I see Dolce I hear myself saying (out loud to no one) “See! This is how you do it!” There is a restraint at Dolce that has come with experience. They have the ideas and they know they have a lifetime to share them. They don’t have Gucci’s urgency to shove them all into a few dozen looks every season. I never would have used the word restraint in the same sentence as Dolce and Gabbana prior to this, just goes to show that context is everything. In any case, this is how it’s done. Allover sequins and insanely embellished accessories can be sophisticated and womanly. They don’t have to be hipster and loud. Adjust the volume back to 10, it doesn’t always need to go to 11.

Gucci

Well this time they take a bit of a Wes Anderson turn. I’m realizing that the Anderson type has always been there and feel silly that I didn’t notice before. Maybe now the dust is settling I can see the sweatbands and peter pan collars of The Royal Tenenbaums. In my defense there is just so much to see. There is less however of the trompe l’oiel, the snakes and crabs. Still animals though and still sequins, florals, prints and plaids, stripes and trimmings and satin and bows. It’s a lot. I still like all the glorious pattern mixing and over embellishment, but truthfully the excitement is wearing off. There is no more shock, no surprises. Now that wouldn’t even factor in to a collection normally, but when you start out so big and you keep at it, it can either get stale and the novelty wears off, or you go bigger or change it up drastically. So far it seems they are headed for the first of those. But we’ll see. Perhaps there is something up Michele’s sleeve…

 

Naeem Khan

Oh my god if Liza and Cher had a lovechild. These are some far out spangly getups. I especially enjoy that Khan really went for it with the styling too. Just because the dress in covered in beads and feathers doesn’t mean you can load on piles of necklaces and enormous earrings good Lord! That being said though there are some gowns in here that I could see showing up in a museum one day, like the one with the (is that a) bee belt. That’s a work of art.  It takes a big personality to pull off one of these outfits.  If you can, please do because we need this kind of go big glamour in our fashion.

Marchesa

I love the Celadon green, the cherry red, the chinoiserie, the trims of velvet ribbon and the fringe. It’s old Hollywood spit shined and dolled up. Hard to resist all that shimmer and shine.

Rochas

I really like this collection. The palette is paired down to basics and the prints are bold yet filtered into simple shapes. They are simply elegant and chic, with some great options for holiday.

Christian Dior

I was surprised to see the theme of outer space coming up so often during the shows. It’s not often spaceships as it is more celestial. It’s hard to make a spaceship chic. But here was more of a continuation from the tarot influenced collection of last season, with more of a focus on the moon and stars. Normally I would lean more in favor of the sparkly, embellished options, but here I really enjoyed the solid offerings. Where the cuts and shapes were the stars – no pun intended. The shapes brought to mind what Dior became famous for, new silhouettes and divine tailoring. These harken back to a time of simplicity and elegance with out all the fuss and tat. Perhaps seeing season after season of glittering sheer dresses covered in applique of everything from animals to, well spaceships, has taken its toll. These modern, clean elegant pieces say so much more and have more substance.

Alberta Ferretti

Pretty Pretty Pretty!!! A sucker for a flowing floaty dress. The colors are soft but there is a mystique to these clothes, like they are hiding a secret about the wearer. Film Noir clothes if Noir was in the 1930’s instead of the 40’s.

J. Mendel

From the first look I sucked in my breath. Oooohh! I love this. Love the textures together and the tiers and the black beading on the navy it all seemed so regal. The looks are grand and elegant and you can sense the richness and quality. These are heirloom garments.

Reem Acra

The play of textures and volume while done with luxe rich fabrics and jewels is nothing short of regal. These garments evoke an aura of royalty in their execution of cut and form and fabrication. The fabrics are heavy and dense and you can imagine the decadent feel of them. The way she has created her shapes which have a avant-garde origin yet somehow seem completely organic. Only a master of draping can take volume to this extreme yet have it look so sophisticated with not a hint of pretentiousness. If you have ever had the opportunity to wear something from Reem Acra than you know these clothes are transformative. I can only imagine how amazing this collection would feel to wear. Queen for a day indeed.

 

 

 

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Spring 2017 RTW

Is it just me or did the Spring offerings look more like Resort than the layerable looks we usually get for the season of crisp mornings and drizzly afternoons? The Pajama trend was still abound even though it has had a pretty good ride last year. There we plenty of light floaty dresses and thin tunics over palazzo pants – Resort right? Perhaps many designers are simply adding their resort items to the Spring lineup, or they just said fuck it and went for full summer wardrobes. Not sure, but it definitely felt off balance.

Hellessy

What I really love about these two looks is that I could probably wear them. No problem. Like, tomorrow. They would layer easily and they look comfortable and fluid. They could be accessorized with long necklaces, cropped jackets, sweaters, boots or sandals. They look easy, simple, but well made and quite lovely. Wrap ’em up!

hellessy

Stella Jean

Clothes for Carrie Bradshaw’s  hypothetical art school dropout little sister to wear on her vacation to Tahiti. Sex in the City had one of the best costumers in the business, Patricia Field and she is probably the reason why so many designers style their offerings in odd combinations and layers. I loved it then, when it was totally jarring in some instances and completely dumbfoundingly brilliant in others, and I love it here now. These clothes are playful, they are whimsical and they make me want to get crazy. Bravo.

stella-jean

Gary Graham

Ever since I became aware of Gary Graham I have become an increasingly bigger fan. The clothes are interesting. The styling is decidedly cool girl where the clothes could border on being old lady hippie. The way they walk that line fascinates me and keeps me coming back to see what they have next. This time out there is a nifty group of dusty florals and bohemian made at home feeling silhouettes. Simple shapes, layered in interesting ways that result in something I’d expect to see on Lisa Bonet. Who is awesome btw. I wonder if she wears this designer?

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Pringle of Scotland

I’m not really into plaid this year but when I come back around I’m going to think these are fantastic. Love when plaid is used in atypical ways like this draped lilting chiffon fabric. The stripes are great too in the design of the print and the choices of layering.

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John Galliano

This season just as last season, there is a little hint of what we used to see in the lavish couture when Galliano was the head of Dior. Those were the days of Dangerous Liaisons esque drama with undertones of the Marquis De Sade. They were captivating. The wrapped and slung leather belts styled over the light floaty dresses are provocative yet tame enough to be accessible. The signature draping skills are in full force across shoulders and hips creating beauty in shape and form. Finally there’s a sprinkling of menswear that adds the edgy contrast that brings the cool factor. So good.

john-galliano

Libertine

It’s hit and miss with Libertine as sometimes the embellishments don’t seem justified by the design. When it works though I’m a fan. Especially when they antagonize the Queen. Where would the English be without Punk Rock? My favorites here are the Union Jack dress and cardigan and the black silk slip dress. Love the contradiction of sexy and snarky.

libertine

Alexander McQueen

What’s so captivating about this collection is that there are some many different inspirations happening all at once. Yet they all work together to create a striking and fresh Frankenstein. There seems to be some tribal, some India, some Hasidic Jew, some punk and some English heritage all carefully worked into this new creation. It’s so fitting that this cultural mash up come at a time when we are having a global cultural clash of sorts with refugees and new leaders wreaking havoc. To see how it can all come together into something totally new and how it can all compliment each other. Maybe I’m getting too in my head, but that’s what I see here and its fucking awesome.

alexander-mcqueen

Haider Ackermann

Impeccable tailoring. Edgy. Coolest designer out there. It’s not out of the question that I may find myself staring a Haider Ackermann fan club. This man inspires such awe and devotion, he delivers time and again and it’s always contemporary yet stays relevant over time. These are forever clothes. We love you Hay ay der, oh yes we do-oo, we love you Hay ay der, and will be true…

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Cushnie et Ochs

Ba-Bam! Wow, someone call Chrissy Teigen cause these dresses are edgy and foxy all at the same time.

cushnie-et-ochs

Maticevski

Once again the play with volume is masterful. Like a sculptor who knows his medium, this designer has the ability to craft shapes that transcend clothes and become wearable art. After looking at this collection it’s difficult to appreciate other designers collections. The works shown here take your head out of the fashion bubble and into the gallery. It’s easy to see that this will become a new and exciting minimalist movement that will set the tone for the post embellishment era that is upcoming and inevitable.

maticevski

Antonio Marras

These outfits are striking. They immediately bring to mind a 1950’s socialite who set the trends. When she arrived at the party all the other ladies whispered their jealous disapprovals yet secretly wished they had the guts to wear something that different and ultimately fabulous.

antonio-marras

For Restless Sleepers

So this is a line of Pajamas. I didn’t get that right away because of the big PJ trend that’s been happening, but once I caught on it was like, GENUS! I fully intend to become a eccentric old lady who slinks about her elegant apartment admiring her collections from her travels and THESE will be my uniform. Not that I wouldn’t wear them now nor that I wouldn’t want every single one, because I do. I just couldn’t live in them as I plan on doing later. I wonder if they do layaway?

for-restless-sleepers

Dries Van Noten

There is a decidedly 1930’s feel to the clothes but I cant put my finger on why my mind goes there. Perhaps the yellows and oranges against the creamy white and blueback? It has a vintage postcard feel that is so French and intriguing. That lovely serene woman with impeccable style and uniqueness. Je ne sais quoi indeed.

dries-van-noten

Dolce & Gabbana

Before there was Alessandro Michele there were Domenico and Stefano. These designers have set the bar for playful, sexy, bright and spectacular. And they do it again and again and again. The have a seemingly endless well from which to draw inspiration. They have never let me down when it comes to dealing out showstopper piece after piece of elaborately decorated garments bags and shoes. There will always be roses, there will always be corsets and there will always be black lace and gold trim. You can count on it.  It’s like coming home to a baroque embellished yet quaint village in Sicily for a glass of vino and a dance.

dolce-gabbana

Gucci

I said that I would no longer get angry at Gucci for having so much damn fun with this historic house, but my immediate response is NO! Stop it!

Why? Why does it freak me out so much every time? I know it’s going to be madness and color and ridiculous animal sweaters with stripes and sequin and on and on. Maybe it’s because it feels like a cheap Harajuku brand, or that it’s haphazard and ultimately doomed to become a cliché? A cheap thrill? Yet it endures still. I think it’s because I love over the top, stripes and sequins and color and rhinestones and tat and glory and I can’t stand to see it abused with abandon. Knowing it can’t possibly continue on at this breakneck pace. People will tire of it, the novelty will wear off and that will be that. (sigh) I’ll be so sad to see it go. It’s just so fucking fun to watch, and I really do love those bags and shoes and printed skirts with skull butterflies and sequin tigers and starbursts and beads and satin ruby red bows on celadon green skirts….*passes out*

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Menswear Spring 2015 Review

This season offered up mostly the usual fashiony mix: the crazy and totally ridiculous, the tried and true, the daring newcomers, the avant-garde and the rockers. Within fashion in general the menswear designers have a much harder go of it because frankly most men aren’t interested in most of what’s on the runway. Even the self proclaimed stylish man will usually stick with his specific look, be it a suit and tie gent, a jeans and tee type – what have you… This is why as a retailer we tend to lean toward more wearable real life clothes that function and aren’t too costumey. Although every now and then even that stable stylish fellow wants something flashy – a statement item, so we keep a look out for that too!  With that in mind, here are the picks from the runways of Spring 2015.

Diesel – Black Gold

 Not quite the rocker not quite the hipster. Diesel has come back in the last few years and has really found it’s customer. The clothes are interesting, wearable and unique. They really fill a hole in the market for the man who wants to dress cool and do it quietly. Plus a casual tuxedo pant is always welcome.

Diesel Black Gold

Costume National

I love that somehow these suits look both painfully 1970’s pimp and/or Mick Jagger while also looking super suave for that guy you know who charms all the ladies with his David Addison crooked smile. These suits are for the Motown loving, sly fox,  cool cat that the world needs more of. That purple suit is just killing me with cockiness – in a good way.

Costume national

Miharayasuhiro

This I had to include because I am nostalgic and all I see here is Duckie from Pretty in Pink who is probably the most originally styled character in a movie ever. If you don’t get this reference then immediately stop reading this and go watch the movie.

If you are still reading, then I love the distress on this blazer. Its effin awesome.

Miharayasuhiro

Lanvin

The styling is a problem – the neck scarves are a bit alienating I’d say. But the clothes fit so well, the shoes are great – I love the messenger bag (really the only bag I see as reasonable for stylish men to carry as a  “man purse”). The pants are narrow without being tight, the jackets are slim without sacrificing ease – these clothes look comfortable right? The first rule of cool – be (or at least look) comfortable.

Lanvain

St Laurent

So here’s where the pants are too tight- they look uncomfortable (camel toe) so that’s right out. What I love here and cannot get enough of is the idea of seeing these embroidered jackets in person and being blown away. There is no question that these jackets are amazing quality and fit perfectly – this is St Laurent after all. To have any one of these would be like the signature item in the rock god wardrobe and that is just freaking irresistible. My eyes literally have stars in them looking at these. Rock and F IN Roll man.

Saint Laurent

Dolce and Gabanna

Dolce and Gabanna menswear is hit and miss for me. The same aesthetic that kills it for the women’s wear , The lusty Sicilian siren – often times is just cheesy when interpreted for men. Though the last few showings have felt less like Versace and more like La Dolce Vita and I am glad for it. The bullfighter was undoubtedly the inspiration here and as always with Dolce, they show tons of looks.  Many just to support the theme, yet amongst the frivolity were some solid numbers. For example, these first two suits are really refreshing. The vest is classic looking paired with the 3/4 jacket and the polka dot in grey and black seems very sophisticated despite the whimsy of the dots. The dashing fellow in the 3rd shot is wearing a great alternative to the black tie basic black and finally the jacquard slippers are just so cocky they are hard to deny. I love the world these two designers have created and the fun that they have decorating it is apparent in their shows.

D & G

Valentino

The Valentino men’s seems like a cross between Prada and Burberry. It’s playful like Prada yet traditionally cut like Burberry. I like this cross because often times the look of the Prada outfit is quirky and cool – but the cut of the garments can be alienating. Where as Burberry has got the fit that most anyone can wear but they typically don’t get as playful. So here is a great mix. The plaids are almost cheeky and the floral embroidered suit is fun. I hate “fun” as an adjective but really… I can see a cool cat wearing those tulip pants with a beater and a black cardigan. Any of these suits can be dressed down in this way and look fantastic.

Valentino

Haider Ackerman

I have become an official fan. In my last men’s review I pointed out how Ackerman ‘s show looked like an 80’s reinterpretation. I belive I mentioned “Men Without Hats” Well here again I see a total 80’s reference via the slouchy blazers, the pastel satins, the pegged pants and dropped trousers- it’s all here and it’s awesome. Ackerman does something magical when he interprets an era. He finds the best bits and exploits the hell out of them while somehow making it look totally easy. This all looks like he just put pen to paper and it flowed like a poem. The silks, the colors, the layers, it’s all so lovely. In fact it’s enviable for the women – I would steal all of these clothes the second my man turned his back. And I stand behind my prediction from that last post. This is the new hipster look.

Haider Ackerman

Belstaff

First this model is not doing these clothes any favors.

 Belstaff are all about classic, expertly crafted, functional biker clothes which are not necessarily made for bikers. They never let me down and if you have some money to drop on a piece you will wear and keep forever then they are your go to designer. They have that leather jacket you have always wanted, the great sweater, the everyday pant. Stellar and reliable.

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John Varvatos

The king.

If rock and roll prayed for a designer then Varvatos would be it’s answer. These clothes are for the self respected rocker or the man who just knows what it feels like to be admired for his confidence and style. I don’t really feel that there is anything to say other than : more please.

J varvatos

Thank you so much for stopping by! We’ll see you for couture 2014…