Tag Archives: Dolce & Gabanna

Men’s Fall 2016 Review

Men’s has been heading the way of more relaxed styles as a reaction to all the skinny suits and skinny jeans of the last big trend. Yet now we seem to be coming to find a tidy balance between the exaggerated and oversized, and the impossibly snug. This is great time in fashion when the trends aren’t swinging too far to one aesthetic. Sprinkle in a bit of Edwardian and Gothic and we’ve got Fall 2016. Here are our favorites.

Joseph

So here we have the moderate version of that slouch look. It’s an easy fitting pant with an easy fitting sweater and yes, an easy fitting jacket. It’s laid back, it’s cool and it’s surely a hell of a lot more comfortable than skinny jeans. (Always love a tuxedo pant.)

 Joseph
Costume National

I like how they have taken a bit of that Edwardian, Edgar Allen Poe Goth trend that is resurfacing and relaxed its often rigid aesthetic. You still have the costumey Edwardian vibe with the silk stripe pant and velvet vest but they aren’t quite so heavy nor so strict. The gothic peeks out in the form of pointy boots and zippers at the knee. Not too much, not too far, just right to work into an existing wardrobe.

 Costume National

Joseph Abboud

Here is an admittedly more subtle and decidedly English country version of the Edwardian trend. The Pants again are a bit more relaxed and the sweaters are easy. Love the relaxed feel of it all even in the velvet tuxedo.

 Joseph Abboud

Greg Lauren

Athleisure meets Ralph. The black on black vest and undershirt are a nice choice, keeping the vest from getting too hipster.  Then the jacket and loooooong shirt combo make a cool, albeit tough to pull off look.

Greg Lauren

Dolce & Gabanna

A really nice mix of the Italian houses’ signature flowers and appliques with the Edwardian influence. Love that leather jacket and excited to see a elegant little wallet chain. Believe it or not these pants are loose by D&G standards!

Dolce & Gabbana

 John Galliano

A little peek at the dandy with the flowers at the end. This is a cool guy who wants something distinctly different yet not gimmicky. Like most guys I know. The jacket and coat are just that, with distinctive design details which are enough to make them unique yet not subscribe to any trend nor specific era.

 John Galliano

Dries Van Noten

The French can thank Noten for keeping their name at the top when it comes to forward fashion. He often seems to take a cue from historic costume but always manages to completely make it his own. There has been a eastern influence in his work of late and here we see it again in the silhouette, the wrapped skirt and the buttoned up jacket of the worker. I don’t know if the embellishments are from a military or regal base. At face value though, they are very intriguing shapes and add a unique element of flair to the impeccably cut jackets.

 Dries Van Noten

Alexander McQueen

Edwardian Gothic is right in Burtons wheelhouse. She is a master at all things punk and Gothic especially if she has the freedom to make it a little femme at the same time. The prints are a gothic girls dream, all floral and butterflies in glorious black and white. The suits are so cool and the possibilities of mixing into a wardrobe are making my inner goth giddy. The long narrow black coats are stunning, especially the silver paisley. Finally, that rose print coat is like a dream come true. Oh that I had all the money in the world to spend on sublime flowery gothic fashion!

 Alexander McQueen

 Roberto Cavalli

This collection is like a smorgasbord of what is being shown by Gucci, St. Laurent and Marc Jacobs. Whether that is a good thing I don’t know, but I like what all those designers have been doing and I like what I see here too. Mostly the mash up of prints in dark colors and embellished velvet. The slouchy PJ’s and the leopard fur are all good fun. Not digging the chucks and the Aerosmith scarves but still some good buys here – mostly for me though, not so much my man.

 Roberto Cavalli

Haider Ackermann

Oh my God, a Misfits and Bauhaus mashup.

Misfits meet bauhaus

Ackerman answers to his own muse. This is not exactly on trend though it is undeniably gothic. This is rock and roll history in all its glammed out, hairless, skinny boy glory. These are rock and roll clothes and if you aren’t rock and roll at heart you just won’t understand and that is just fine.  If everyone liked it, it wouldn’t be special which is probably why it’s always leaned to the extreme – to keep the others out. When I started this review I had praised the designers for staying more toward the middle of the road on trends so I get the irony of closing on a totally extreme collection. I never said middle of the road was my favorite – just the most reasonable.

Haider Ackermann


Spring 2016

So many questions…

You’d think that designers who have longevity – wait, not all designers that have longevity – but some of them at least, would be pleased to see the revival of a look that they were responsible for. Like Armani – who you’d think could blow the doors off of the 1980’s revival seeing as he is the designer who led the way in the 1980’s. He was the top designer at that time who brought us the power suit. Is Armani thinking, “I know this – I can do this in my sleep, lets show these kids how its done!”? Then there is Marc Jacobs who was famously ousted from Perry Ellis immediately after showing his “grunge” collection (ironically his most influential)  which IS ALL OVER THE RUNWAYS now. From the super trendy St Laurent to the Italian powerhouse Roberto Cavalli. Is Jacobs thinking that this epic revival is his for the taking? Should he give derivative Slamine a run for his money? Or are they over it? As designers it is their job to move forward so do they just shrug and say its nice to see that I’ve made a mark on the industry? One that can be felt all over again, all these years later?  Which then implies it will continue to resonate in the decades to come as it will surely play out again and again in subsequent revivals.

It seems to me that the overall feel of  Spring 2016 (and then again in the just completed Fall 2016 collections) is Revival. And no era has been spared. The top designers are going from the 60’s all the way to the 00’s. Sure, someone is always doing an homage but when the majority of the top designers are looking back to go forward….that’s a big shift. Perhaps they have fatigued on all the “half and half” looks and the origami draping. Do they need a break from the desperately overdone, overworked and tortured looks meant to break new ground?  Now they just want to relax and make something they love inspired by a favorite bygone era? I think that having a break from trying to be the designer of the future will allow them to relax and clear their minds. When you stop trying so hard that is usually where inspiration is found.  My prediction for next year is that these same designers – now revitalized – are going to be pushing forward with fury. The collections for 2017 are going to be modern and clean and the silhouettes will be shapeless, straight and simple. None of the layering of pattern and costume frivolities we see now.

In a nutshell for Spring 2016 we see the beginnings of a huge trend of Fur, Leopard and Patent Leather with a gothic undertone all which carry into the Fall. Here are our favorites.

Mui Mui

So happy to see the bold prints and mixing of textures in this collection which first caught my eye in the 1990’s Prada collections. The purple print is my favorite because it  looks like it would feel joyful to wear. I also love the trench coat layered over the dress and the wide lapel double breasted coats (also a 90’s staple). They have a nice nipped in waist and are the perfect length both at the sleeve and the hem for ease of wear and practicality. This is the first hint at the gothic makeup trend there will be much more of to come.

 Miu MiuA.F. Vandevorst

I love a cool girl. The fitted striped pants are understated which is not easy to achieve in a striped pant. The result is instant effortless cool points, the belt is soooooooo coooool like a punk rock cummerbund then paired with the elevated blazer is a nice touch of class. The dress has that papery drape that would usually annoy me but I find myself thinking it looks really clean and sharp here – perhaps its all attitude? Hmmm. The last – those killer embellished  pants layered under the black embellished dress (?) is great because you can feel the weight of it, the way the metal embellishments effect the hang and that when she walks she can’t help but feel powerful, like an armor. It’s all so cool.

A.F. Vandevorst

Haider Ackermann

Ackermann is my current favorite designer. He must be, because he has done deconstructed neon pants and I like it. The fact that he would put neon yellow with ice blue velvet is enough to know that this guy knows what the fuck he is doing. The obvious quality of the work and the materials support the design so that he can accomplish deconstruction without losing any luxury. The pastels play off the bright colors so naturally that I wonder why it never occurred to me before. I love that – when a design is so successful that I have an ah-ha moment.  The signature cropped jacket is always spot on and the leather is supple and chic. Ackermann continues to inspire.

aa Haider Ackermann

Yang Li

Big flowy dresses are always on my list. Whenever the weather gets warm and breezy I have an innate desire for long fluid fabrics that will billow when I walk. It just feels good. These speak to that desire. The white swingy jacket, the black maxi dress, the florals with the full skirts and that jacket with the train are all easy to wear and make you want to parade down the sidewalk in the sunshine. The gothic color palette is unexpected with floral so naturally I love that too.

aaa Yang Li

Etro

Here is  more of that same feeling but with a vintage and exotic vibe. These are more of a lounge around drinking tea in the solarium just off the manicured gardens while discussing the trivialities of politics. Who’s in??? Tra la la!

aaaa etro

Anna Sui

Anna Sui always has a strong retro vibe to her collections, which is probably why she is one of my favorites. Especially when she taps into the 20’s 30’s or 40’s. This time it was a late 1930’s nod full of her signature prints and dusty tone color palate. I especially love the charmingly old Hollywood retro swimming costumes in the colorful prints. And the floral print floaty dresses are always welcome. Fair Warning: Generally, whenever florals are really popular there is always like a 10 year backlash where they are impossible to find so here our chance to stock up.

 Anna Sui

Had to include the final sequin look because it is a remake of an iconic costume worn by Barbara Stanwyck in the very funny 1941’s farce, Ball of Fire

Annex - Stanwyck, Barbara (Ball of Fire)_04

Temperly London

More resort-y springtime faire on the runways at Temperly London. I used to say that I thought this was the perfect designer for Kate Middleton, though now they seem to have evolved into more of a relaxed silhouette. More and more they are heading toward looser fits. I love the soft pink and black combo that they always seem to go back to – it’s charming in its innocent femininity without being cloyingly sweet. Always a sucker for a palm print, I like it here in conjunction with the English rose motif which keeps the palm from getting too trendy. The peasant dress out first is a nice introduction to the story of the collection and charming on its own. The blazer is not my favorite,  I’d prefer a lightweight knitted ivory pullover in its place with a low slung belt. A robe is the new covetable item especially when the sleeve and hem are long, as they are here. The Sheer beach dress has perfect pattern placement and the sequins jumper with the addition of the rosary is so cool.  Relaxed chic for Spring.

Temperly London

Alexander McQueen

Right off I have got to announce how much I love the redcoats juxtaposed to the soft rose print florals. All the details are beautiful from the touches of fringe to the tiny covered buttons and the eyelash festooned metallic lace. Burton has reigned in the ruffles and peek a boos from the last few collections and it looks like she has really gotten to the meat of it here. This is more restrained and better edited which makes it so much more balanced and accessible. The jewelry is STUNNING and so badass – I love the heavy chain and the boldness. It’s at once pretty, cool, soft and strong.

 Alexander McQueen

 Antonio Marras

This group is decidedly European. There is that thing about this designer that is akin to when you see a person from Germany (or some western European country) at a coffee shop and you can tell they are not an American. There is just something inherently different about them. These clothes have that indescribable thing and it’s really intriguing. The colors are unusual together, warm grey with gold, pink, ivory and crimson red. I love all the embellishments on the dresses and the makeup and styling are kind of like what you may see in an old oil portrait painting framed in some heavily carved gold frame. This whole group  has mystique. I love that.

 Antonio Marras

Dolce & Gabanna

Dolce and Gabanna time! Bring on the colors, the embellishments, the lace, the corsets and the sexy. They always have some roses, some religion and some sequins so I always love something. This time it’s the flowers that were my favorites, along with the pajama theme that most designers are showing.  There are plenty of more is more moments here and I just chose some of the ones that caught my eye especially though I assure you there were tons to choose from.

Dolce & Gabanna 1 Dolce & Gabanna 2 Dolce & Gabanna

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

These are some romantic, billowy, spring and summer dresses. I love how the fabrics are light enough to layer but have enough weight to behave as a dress not just a nightgown. Obviously some clever layering would be necessary in the case of sheer dresses, but this brings the opportunity for brightly colored slips or light colored blouses – loosely knit cardigans…there is fun to be had. Just what I want on a hot sunny day with a big hat and cool drink.

 Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

 Valentino

Though the theme is not my favorite there is always stunning work done at the house of Valentino these days. I could not reasonably do a review without acknowledging the masterful craftsmanship and immense creativity of this team.

 Valentino

Gucci

Were do I begin?? There is so much happening in this collection and as a more is more subscriber, it’s hard to deny that my eyes are dancing. The colors are like a bowl of shiny hard shelled candies. The fabrics like they came from Diana Vreeland’s apartment, the details are cheeky and irresistibly playful. The trompe l’oeil ruffles are genius. I always applaud when a designer gives you a collection that you can own a piece of and be satisfied. Here you could have that bag, that shake charm shoe or just a ring and feel like you have a bit of the fantasy. This is purely due to the fact that the theme is so cultivated and merchandised for point of sale. I’m sure the investors are slapping each other on the back right now seeing dollar signs,  this collection is so easy to shop.

Gucci Gucci

Shoes!

So speaking of things we can buy, shoes! Shoes!! Shoes!!! We had to include these few from the runways.

J Crew

J Crew Gingham and Madras 1950’s inspired sandals! YES!

Miu Miu 1

Mui Mui Snakeskin T-Straps and blood red patent leather heels. Love the ankle ties too.

Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta does Vamp. Oh Yeaaaaaaaah

Marc Jacobs

I have discussed how excited I was to see what Jacobs would do once he had his own house to play in again. Having thrown off the shackles of Vuitton and it’s expectations, what delicious creations he would be able to unleash. Well this collection was just what I hoped for. The overall theme of the circus, the burlesque, the fantasy, he went there all the way and clearly had a blast. It’s so enjoyable as the viewer when you can see the fun that was had while they were designing. How each idea led to the next – the energy is kinetic and inspiring to behold. I love the colors, the fuschia and gold and the blood red and silver. The navy and burgundy and white! The details are abundant and make each piece beg the viewer to get a closer look. This is the best, most fun part of fashion – this is what sells the tickets to take the ride.

Marc Jacobs hh Marc Jacobs

Lanvin

The final collection by Alber Elbaz and it’s as if he decided to show us how it was all done. The revealing of the underwork is nothing but genius. There is so much meticulous crafted beauty shown here it is sad to think that this is the end. Lanvin has personified French fashion and this collection simply shows us why. Master craftsmanship, fierce attention to cut and form, and the highest of taste levels. Glamorous and elegant meet when stitched with lace and sequins, satin and wool. Breathtaking.

Lanvin

 Dries Van Noten

How fitting to end this review with French Designers. The Paris shows are arguably the most innovative. They innovate while maintaining a level of taste which is not as easy to accomplish as it may look. Noten has been at the top of the industry along with Valentino, Ackermann, McQueen and a handful of others when it comes to designing innovative and fresh collections that are legitimately wearable. Not to mention dramatic, yet poised and even downright practical at times. This collection is full of color and texture and pattern at every turn yet somehow it doesn’t look jumbled. Noten is an excellent stylist as well as designer which is why the collections always look so accessible. I love the evolution of the Chinoiserie influence in the prints. It is still there, on his mind from the last season but it’s morphing into the next idea and that is the best kid of tease in fashion. What will he do next???

Indeed.

z Dries Van Noten
 Dries Van Noten
zDries Van Noten 1


Men Spring 2016

Has 2015 been this looooooong of a year?? These collections seem like they are from ages ago. I’m finally getting a chance to sit down and work on the review and most of the images don’t even resonate anymore. I’m really surprised by that. Usually I don’t flip a switch that quickly, maybe it’s just because this year has indeed been a long one with some major changes. Experiences can shift your point of view, proof is right here. But I’m going to stick to my guns on this and show the majority of the looks I had picked way back in September.

Gucci

So I had been really excited about Chinoiserie this time last year. I even had a chinoiserie themed Christmas tree.  I painstakingly hand made at least 75 paper cranes that were glittered and tucked into the branches of the tree, the garlands, the wreaths and all. It was my obsession. To see some of the Fall 2015 and forward collections featuring that same idea was really satisfying. Even 3 months ago I was still thrilled to see these exquisite bird and branch patterned fabrics and embellishments.

Gucci
Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Dolce & Gabanna

This is more of the Italian version but in the same vain. I love the Pajama influence in the suit, it goes with my whole slouch theory from last season.

Dolce & Gabanna

Marc Jacobs

Speaking of last season, here is that same drip of a model from Jacobs Fall outing. What’s the deal Jacobs?

These pants are what it’s all about – these are very similar to the drop dead killer pants that started my obsession with Haider Ackermann (see below).

Marc Jacobs

Third pair…Still love this.

Haider Ackermann Spring 2015

Haider Ackermann Spring 2015

Haider Ackermann

Speak of the devil. In this new season Ackermann evolves the Asain influence. The center look most notably as well as other moments through the collection. This one was my favorite though, it is very wearable despite the potentially costume-y nod to traditional robes. Leave it to Ackermann to push forward with the idea successfully all the while making the designing seem effortless. The other two looks reference a 1980’s hipster which could go so very wrong yet it doesn’t. It looks cool enough to make me question why I would ever turn my back on a drop shoulder coat.

Haider Ackermann

Ermenegildo Zegna

More oversized, softened styles here and I’m really surprised that I love the colors. Normally all these pastels would be a huge turn off.  The coats themselves feel very 1960’s business man but the colors are so humble that you get this charming kind of sheepish he’s a gentleman but he’s earnest? I need a thesaurus and a poet to help me express myself here. I just find it charming in a rosy cheek kind of way. I try – I do.

Ermenegildo Zegna

Lanvin

In keeping with the theme, here are some more exaggerated shapes – note I don’t say “baggy” which would be a direct reference to the 1980’s. (Despite the model in gray bearing a striking resemblance to Al Pacino in Scarface) These are carefully tailored clothes, simply cut wider and fuller but the lines are still strong. Nothing sloppy here which makes all the difference. This red coat is outstanding I would share it (maybe) and wear it!

Lanvin

John Varvatos

Consistent. Varvatos delivers for his customer there is no doubt. This man will always have a sharp new suit every season that will be clean, fitted, and cool. If he wants to get crazy there is a version of the oversized coat thrown in there too. It’s so nice to have a designer at this level – in this rock and roll world who just gives you what you want.

John Varvatos

Roberto Cavalli

This collection actually looks more like his womenswear than what he usually delivers for the guys. I was a little surprised that the silhouette was so lean when he usually goes more broad – more beefy if you will. I know there is a new designer for the women’s, I don’t know if the men’s has been taken over as well but it does feel different. The women’s latest collection was horrible and felt like a very different house. In fact it’s the similarity to the original womenswear that leads me to believe that this was still by Cavalli’s hand. In any case I do like the clothes but more for me! Hah!

Roberto Cavalli

Thom Browne

Thank God for Thom Browne! Circling back to the chinoiserie influence by way of Edwardian gothic! I think this is incredible. By far the most stunning collection of the season. These are art. This is art.

Thom Browne


Fall 2015: Womens Ready to Wear Review

 

So here’s the thing about seasons where designers are of overwhelmingly like mind. In this case it was a full on 1970’s reboot. If you have been looking for a great vintage 1970’s piece or a have been missing that iconic element from your wardrobe, then this is the time to strike. Here you have many of the best designers in the world competing to create the most modern and desirable reinvention of a 1970’s era look. A defining piece – an attempt by some the best design minds out there to evoke the spirit of an era. You can now take your pick of printed miniskirts and flowing floral maxi’s. Don’t get bogged down in the revisitation of a seemingly wrung out moment in our history, (eh hem) shop it instead and move on.

Overall Fall 2015  offered many options for real wearable clothes. And it was these wearable pieces that drew my eye, more so than the flashier artistic fare. Which is so unlike me considering my magpie tendencies. As a result there was a very large pool to choose from and a very diverse final group for this review.  It’s always tricky to find a fluid order in which to present our favorites and with all that in mind this season was harder than most. So I went with a cross of casual to formal and good to excellent. I hope that makes sense, there are just so many of them!

Hope you like them as much as we do.

David Michael

As I was saying, wearable. The styling here is so cool. A little Parisian and a little American art school student. There is a wardrobe of go to pieces here and you gotta love that.

 David Michael

 

 Issa

Here’s some of that 1970’s reboot I was talking about up there. The deep V, the Maxi, the Fringe and the gold arm bands. They took the influence and really just updated it and left it alone. This is such a simple looking pair of dresses which is exactly why you could wear them forever and just about anywhere, in any way.

 Issa

Michael Kors

Kors seems to share my affinity for the 1930’s, perhaps because it was a time of such elegance and softness. Looking at these I just think, how charming. I love that Kors always has a little sparkle in there and that the clothes are always feminine. The black beaded frock is oddly slouchy in way that feels modern, if that makes any sense. I suppose that could be the female version of The Slouch that I have been promoting in the menswear collections. Yet here at the end is this very tailored suit dress that I also love because it looks so sharp and sophisticated. I can’t say I really followed the story of this collection – but I do love the pieces.

Michael Kors

Chloe

Without even realizing it I guess I really have jumped on the slouch bandwagon. (Someone more clever than me really needs to coin a proper phrase people, suggestions are welcome!)  The exaggerations here don’t stop at the length, if they did you could just call it Maxi. They also have floppy collars, extended sleeves and dropped waists.  They are oversized yet slim, not boxy – or else you could call them retro 1980’s. I especially love the soft floral dress but would rather wear it for summer than fall.  I wish the plaid coat was solid because the plaid makes it have too much going on. The brown sweater dress with the skinny tie and the military coat with the soft poet shirt underneath are both solid.

Chloe

Gary Graham

I was really taken with this collection. It is indescribably ethnic, which makes it seem mysterious. Therefore the woman wearing the clothes becomes mysterious, where is she from? what does she do? It’s just statement piece after statement piece which is so hard to style all together and not look like its totally overdone. It is a deft hand that can pull off this feat and they have done it marvelously here. I love the draped luxurious velvet with the contrast of the ethnic stripe simple skirt. The severity of the wool cropped jacket with the must be historic costume influenced sleeve detail. Is that two leather jackets or one? I really hope its one because it is so much more interesting.  I don’t know very much about this designer but looking back I found looks I’ve pinned here and there over the last few seasons. This is the first season he has really turned my head though and I hope to see more like this going forward.

 Gary Graham

 

 

Haider Ackermann

This collection is ripe in 1980’s references but in such a fresh and totally transformative way. Ackermann is so far ahead of the game when it comes to setting the standard for what is next – what is hip.  He has taken the forbidden shoulder pad and make it look strong again. Here it is clean and modern, practically like a dare to be questioned.  And he shows how you can take that coat and pair it soft, like with the maxi skirt or sharp with the pant.

As you scroll down notice how he mixes practical and flashy – business with pleasure. He shows you how it’s done because he is the master of styling and leaves it to the customer to choose where she fits into this wardrobe. So many women are present here in various offerings. You could walk the streets of Paris, Rome, Barcelona, New York, Moscow, Madrid, Dublin, etc – it’s all here!  If you dissected this collection and looked at it piece by piece you could mix and match so many types of real women – it’s just that good.  It’s suddenly so easy to be strong, modern and unabashedly female.

 Haider Ackermann 1

 

G Haider Ackermann 5

G Haider Ackermann 2

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Only Westwood can make draping look punk.

 Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Dries Van Noten

I was still hoping to see some Chinoiserie amongst the collections and this season there were some direct influences, which was a treat. Most notably by Dries Van Noten. His take on the Asian influence is so unexpected. There is this ever-present Olive Drab that serves to highlight the beauty of the colors while giving you a clue as to where the shapes are coming from. He takes you back and forth from the extravagance of say, the silk coat and then shows you it in drab. Then turns around and shows you the  communist worker (?) uniform at the end but tied with the over the top embellished overskirt. Perhaps he is showing us that he is inspired by the utility, where the opulence perhaps it is to show that each have their beauty?

Whatever the case, you know I am in it for the embellished opulence. The prints are tribute to the Asian art that inspires them. Take a look at the back of the skirt in the last frame – the one with the beaded and sequins trees and pagoda scene. Oh my God I love that.

 

H Dries Van Noten 1

 These two tops are like art in the way the fringe creates the movement of the wind and water. And I had to acknowledge the shoes!

 Dries Van Noten

Marc Jacobs

This collection is the next generation version of Jacob’s Louis Vuitton Fall 2013 Collection.

Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Fall 2013

If that was the 1930’s up to the 50’s  then this picks right up where he left off in the 50’s and takes us all the way to the 1970’s. He had more of that story to tell and I am so glad that he has brought this  look over to his line. After he left Vuitton it went back to being just another label showing nice designer clothes – fine. But Jacobs brought theater to the collections, not just the shows but the story of the clothes. He was selling you a moment in time – our time – through his eyes. This is something he seems to always do for the houses in which he works but never seemed to do for his own brand. I’m so glad to see him putting his full force behind his name where it belongs. No more giving his best to someone else. This group has a similar story to that of the Vuitton  in the colors and prints, the furs and the jackets, the treatments with beading, the coats and woolen plaid’s and I love it. I loved it then too – in fact it was my favorite of the season.

 Marc Jacobs

I love how these dresses both have insets of sheer netting. It adds so much softness and depth to the story of the dress. These clothes all tell stories of the women who wear them – like they were each designed for just that one woman.

Marc Jacobs

Temperly London

This was one of my favorite collections of the season. This is a departure for Temperly which usually go more, hmm – English? They always seem to be a perfect designer for Kate Middleton – yet this does not work for Kate. So that’s my whole basis of that opinion… Meanwhile, I love the scarves most of all. The rich colored embroidered double faced satin, the sequins with fringe and the silk embroidered are all highly coveted. This is a scarf people – finally! This may be the harbinger of the end of days for that bunchy drape of cotton gauze that’s been wrapping the necks of trendsetters for far too many a season. The choice of this mixture of blues is also wonderful and uplifting. And of course I always love a shit ton of sequins.

 Temperley London

Temperley London

Alexander McQueen

I have to admit that I was disappointed with most of the McQueen collection this season. The smocking of the lace over and over was such a turn off, ick. But there were some bits in there that I really liked and the design is always good – just not always successful. The pink and black are classic and have the clash of feminine and dark at its core so what’s not to love in that choice? The Victorian influence is played with very thoughtfully and came to some really interesting conclusions like the peek a boo button front and the tattered layered coat. You can see there is a lot of story here and that’s always hard to resist although it’s not always enough to make you want to be a part of it. (Again that smocking is just – eww.) The pleated skirt is so pretty, and the boots are spectacular. How do I not have these boots?!? The tattered ruffled coat is really a showstopper and I would love to have it and just wear it as a day-to-day cause it just does all the work for you.  The last coat too, it’s not really remarkable but I still want it.

  Alexander McQueen

Valentino

So this was a near total departure from what we have seen from the Valentino design team. Where there were once a multitude of peasant style prints and embellishments of hand crafted lace and embroideries there stands neat clean black and white. And I still dig it. They are just so damn good – they took geometric and op art and reinterpreted it to fit their esthetic. It feels like they have reinvented the 1960’s without being derivative. Sure there are these fucking perfect zip front patent go-go boots and a classic retro handbag but really this still looks like the new Valentino more than it does a 1960’s rehash. This is how it’s done. Once again they are making the new vintage collectible clothing without a doubt.

Valentino

The collection was not without the now signature embellishments despite the whole first act of the show, and we did still see some stunning prints and inspired beaded gowns that defy you to stop looking closer.

 Valentino

Then at the end they wrapped it up with some deceptively simple gowns that I just had to include because they are in arguably chic and indisputably editorial.

 Valentino

Givenchy

The first five looks here are actually from the Men’s Fall 2015 collection. I was so looking forward to what we would see when it came to the women’s collection. This offered a promise of something mysterious and lovely. It is at the heart of gothic, at least where my gothic heart lies. It is dark and feminine which to me suggests the power of the female and I find that so intriguing. The first have some crazy vampire references which I find unnecessary but nonetheless they help to illustrate the point of the feminine being strong and forceful. When the actual women’s collection showed it went more toward a statement on culture and costume which lost some of the previous message that got me so excited. It wasn’t as interesting for me and the facial jewelry was so elaborate  that it overshadowed the clothes. A disappointment – but I still have these first 5…

 Givenchy

 Naeem Khan

This designer has been one of my favorites for a while now and it’s definitely because he loves color, sparkle and a flowy silhouette. I always look forward to his collections. Now, not all of it is great as sometimes its get a bit pageantry or country music awards show for my taste – but I think that comes with the territory. I love the Indian influence that is ever-present in the colors and embellishments. Here I was really excited to see the lace pant under the sheer skirt. It doesn’t look that great here but I love the idea of it and if it were me I would have repeated the idea in many other looks. How have I not seen this before? The next look is just such a show stopper – c’mon. It’s rock and roll royalty wear. As if Ziggy Stardust and Hollywood had a baby (Ziggy would love Hollywood). The ombre number is just pretty. What can I say?  It is fluid and soft and probably feels amazing to wear. All the while doing the figure a huge favor in the cut, who doesn’t want that?? Then the black slit with the embroidered sleeves!  So elegant and exotic. I imagine this woman holding a drink at a party and just letting those sleeves billow as she takes a sip. I love the drama. Theater! I love all this wearable costume.  It’s dress up for big girls.

 Naeem Khan

Luisa Beccaria

Here we have a good old-fashioned 1940’s reference. This collection reads more like the wardrobe for a character in a big Hollywood film set in that era. That’s fine by me. This is at least the third time I have mentioned drama and theater isn’t it? Sometimes when you let yourself get into the costume side of things it makes it fun again – breathes new life into clothes and reminds you that our clothes can be a character – they can be dramatic and curated. Don’t we strive to curate a wardrobe for ourselves? Maybe we aren’t all a 1940’s siren but dressing up is fun. These are some serious fun.

 Luisa Beccaria

If you wanted to claim these were vintage – it would be no problem. She employs the comfort of new techniques and fabrics with a vintage look.

Luisa Beccaria

 Dolce & Gabanna

As soon as I saw the rose pattern I flashed on an eagerly anticipated episode of 120 Minutes on MTV hosted by Robert Smith sometime in the early 1990’s. My high school hero wore a black shirt covered in roses that instantly inspired my all black gothic wardrobe to allow for dark and romantic. That shirt is burned on my brain. As it turned out, he had two – a white with roses and the black he wore on that show. I taped it on my VCR that night but god only knows where that tape has gone… a victim of my fathers efficiency I suppose. None the less my memory has held on to it and seeing these roses on the runways of my favorite high school designer is like some sort of cosmic full circle. The parallel universe where my high school self is sitting up late watching MTV and clipping pages from Bazaar is feeling elated upon this marriage. I love these rose dresses. I have been waiting for them.

 Dolce & Gabanna

This is the only image I could find of Mr. Smith in that Rose shirt – I wish it was clearer.

LThe Cure Never Enough

Meanwhile, the rest of the show had a mother/family theme which was charming.  Who that has ever been pregnant wouldn’t dream of a Dolce maternity dress???

There are beautiful simple shifts and fitted, sexy buttoned up coats which are paired with incredibly sexy shoes and meticulous accessories.  Oh Dolce and Gabanna – how I love you so.

 Dolce & Gabanna

Marchesa Notte

These are just so pretty. I mean really, these are so pretty. The shade of red is perfect. Perfect Red. The placement of the patterns and lace is perfect. They are cut to flatter and they really do. Young Hollywood? Cocktail party? Big date? This is what stunning looks like. Here is that killer dress.

Marchesa Notte

Zuhair Murad

This is not my favorite even though it is at the end. It just seemed to be the most formal. Not that much at first view right? More sheer, more black, more beads, blah blah blah. Except there is a conceptual coolness in that sheer. The first dress has a frenetic Japanese brush painting artistic thing happening that just makes it really unique among the masses of sheer beaded black gowns. The black and white ball gown evokes beauty among chaos, which is pretty provocative for a ball gown. The last one is just so vampy and exotic and sexy and wow. The belt keeps it from being too delicate and makes it more commanding. I dig that. It’s all crafted. They all have a mood and that’s impressive.

Zuhair Murad

So to sum up, the favorites were inspired by the past and the present. There was wearable drama and clothes that beckon you to dress up. To be cool and playful, feminine and strong. Always good things to be. Until next time – Cheers!


Spring 2015

The collections for Spring 2015 didn’t really speak to me. I was looking for some 90’s era, grunge floral dresses mixed with bohemian layered lightweight separates. I hoped to see chinoiserie inspired prints and loads of color. Once again there were showings of entire white collections, entire black collections, beige, neutral etc. Though not was I was looking forward to – there were some great looks among those pallid palettes that I had to include. Not many designers were tapped into my frequency this season but thankfully there were a few.

Bottega Veneta

Being a cardigan kind of gal from way back it’s hard to pass these up. Effortless is always chic and it’s pretty clear why when you check out the styling here.

1 Bottega Veneta

Haider Ackermann

Now definitely a favorite designer. The styling is so important here yet it’s only as successful as the drape and proportion. The clothes are all cut to the exact right length to layer agreeably. The result is dialed in perfectly. This shade of pink was a color pick from Spring 2013 – still a favorite.

 1 Haider Ackermann

Etro

So here are some prints and some boho. More southwest than what I like for sure but Etro always does such an impressive job of layering prints. There are pieces in here, the white jacket, the blue button front dress the floaty skirt and the top of the white dress…These are all pieces you could work into a wardrobe and they look like things that would feel great to wear on a warm spring day. They evoke a feeling of Springtime. That’s probably what I like the most here.

2 Etro

Anna Sui

This is more what I was hoping for. The Asian inspired prints, the floaty fabrics and girly yet rock and roll attitude. (The boots are stellar.)

3 Anna Sui !

St. Laurent

I’m realizing as I’m clicking through the St Laurent Collection that I’m having a hard time with the head to toe looks – and a better response to the detail images. I suppose because head to toe they look like costumes from some low budget 70’s film starring Debbie Harry and Marc Bolan. It’s so damned derivate – it’s almost 70’s punk plagiarism. In fact I think that’s exactly what it is. A totally intact time capsule – a time machine for the hipster fashionistas of the now. They love this shit. Despite my condemnation I admit once again that he’s got me with some of this. I cannot turn my back on rock and roll so yes, I’d take a piece or two (or five)  here and there. It is straight up fashion victims who will wear this as shown – God help all those “it” girls to have some perspective.

3 St Laurent

Temperly London

I love the 1920 / 1930’s nod to nightgowns here. The colors, the fabrics, the rhinestones. It’s Hollywood glamour. I’d wear the dress with a cropped sharp blazer for evening or a shrunken leather jacket for day. The short robe over a beater and jeans, the sheer robe over a graphic slip dress or a camisole and cigarette pants. So much fun could be had with these pieces. I love them.

3 Temperly London 1

Ermanno Scervino

These work for different reasons. The shorts are cool because they look like 1930’s tap shorts – a little cheeky (no pun intended) and a little sparkly. The dress looks ethereal while still looking modern ,(two typically opposing distinctions) and the frosted sleeves of that beautifully draped jacket are just serious magpie bait. That is all.

5 Ermanno Scervino

Tory Birch

I love that this is linen, that it is simple and most of all that it has a big fucking sparkly feather across the front. Totally impractical but I like it anyway.

5 Tory birch

Alberta Ferretti

More nightgown inspired dresses. I will always include these despite how many times I see them because they will always represent the classic romanticism that we need from time to time. It cannot all be modern – it just can’t.

6 Alberta Ferretti

Mary Katrantzou

This was a really cool collection inspired very literally by the ocean. I love the intricate and beautifully crafted details. The colors are so soft and feminine yet hit with that contrast of black…stunning. The pleats and the lace, and sheers over the prints – love love love.

6 Mary Katrantzou 1

Diane Von Furstenburg

This. The chinoiserie I was hoping for. This coat is flawless. The fit through the shoulder is so soft and clean, the collar is just right, the length, the nipped in waist. Perfect. Love!

7 DVF

 Undercover

Hieronymus Bosch.  I would be surprised if every art student hadn’t had a love affair with the works of Bosch when they first discovered him. His fantastical creatures, disturbing and glorious yet depicted so storybook-like. He was truly connected to a dream though his hands. The images once seen stay forever with the viewer. When I saw this collection roll out I got increasing excited because what a challenge to tackle.  If you are going to dare to involve such a beloved artists’ work with your own you really take a huge risk. This could have gone in so many directions… Ultimately I think they took a tame perspective and it works. They paid tribute to the fantasy and the beauty without making it inaccessible.

8 Undercover

Dolce & Gabanna 

When I first became a fan of Dolce & Gabanna I was a fashion obsessed pre teen. It was the 1990’s and they were running their Chelsea Girls inspired ad campaign. I was hooked immediately and I have not been anble to free myself from their grip ever since – nor would I care to.

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1992 Ad Campaign

This collection is like a touchstone. It has elements of all the things that I have loved them for over all these years. The corsets, the religion, the Italian heroine, all topped with crowns! This is so the epitome of Dolce & Gabanna. Glorious!

9 D & G 1 9 D & G 2 9 D & G 3 9 D & G 4

Gareth Pugh

These three looks are sophisticated, startling, and evocative. I dream of seeing that harlequin dress spin. It is my favorite dress of the season.

10 Gareth Pugh

Tom Ford

Wow.

If those are indeed sheer and sequin striped jeans on the first model then just show me where to pay. Why are these not a staple? Like blue jeans or leather pants?? Best pants of the year – hands down. The coat also modern and cool and billowy and sexy and yes please. And yesssssss – black sequin cape ensemble!?!? Killing me!! Rock and Roll meet drama! Hooray!

10 Tom FOrd

Lanvin

Dragon Print Pants and Snakeskin bag. Boom.

11 lanvin

Gucci

Chinoiserie! Thank you Gucci for answering my prayer. And not just Chinoisere, ohhh nooo – they did beaded, mixed patterns chinoiserie. They did femme fatale disco chinoiserie! YES! This is so fantastic – I’m sure Ana Sui is dying over these… They are GEORGOUS!

12 Gucci 1

Erdem

I have heard (on Project Runway from Nina Garcia) that green is the worst selling color in fashion. Considering how flattering it is that surprises me. How could this green be a hard sell I wonder?

I love seeing the Asian inspiration of course, not to mention the floaty feminine draping and delicate details – all shown in colorful prints. These dresses are lovely – just what I was hoping for.

13 Erdem

~Sidebar~

So I couldn’t help but notice that Valentino is heavily influencing designers. The silhouette and exotic peasant persona that they single handedly introduced seasons ago has trickled down to so many other collections. Here are just a few that cannot be disputed…

Tadashi Shoji, Erdem and Honor

14 Val Rip

Valentino

The pinnacle. They are still so far ahead of everyone else here. They continued to use traditional cultural prints. Here they have evolved from the previous eastern European style to more of a Spanish? I can’t put my finger on it but it’s charming yet graphic and the colors are perfect. Then the move to the mystical ocean theme? I’m not sure how they got from one to the other but when you are showing  79 looks you can tell a hell of a long story. The coral painted jacket is surprisingly elegant. The embellished dresses are like stunning costumes from a glamorous old movie. They defy an era.  Classic Beauty. They have done it again.

Valentino 1 Valentino 7 Valentino 8

I have been furiously pinning from Pre Fall and it seems there are a lot of the bohemian looks I was hooing to see in Spring. Until then though – check us out on Pinterest. See you soon, Cheers!!


Men’s Fall 2014 Review

Men’s certianlly isn’t as fun as women’s. The more outrageous the Menswear the more silly it usually seems. Where with women’s outrageous can be art – the gateway to the next big trend and so on.  My take is that men’s should be real, should make the Man the best version of himself – whether that’s a rocker, a gentleman or a dandy for example. That in mind, here are the standouts from the Fall 2014 runways:

 

Belstaff

The quintessential Biker from whatever era – the best of all? This man wears only the finest. This is the top of the line for Leather and the styling is dead on.  Another great showing.

 

 

Belstaff

 Haider Ackerman

This is a total throwback to the 80’s for me. When I first saw this I flashed on Men without Hats – Safety Dance… anyone else? But then I realized, I don’t mind as a matter of fact these guys look  pretty cool in that, I don’t care I just threw this together way. Not for everyone, but I see the next hipster here.

Haider ackerman

 

Alexander McQueen

Another revival here. The rocker will like this and so will the hipster. It’s classic punk from the vantage of a suburban bedroom window. Familiar and comforting in a way, not to mention extremely high quality. If your looking for your last shredded sweater look no further! (anyone else see Nick Cage from Valley Girl?)

McQueen

Shoes

So lets take a break here and look at one of the accessories that are easiest for men. Shoes can do so much to an ensemble. They are often beloved by their owners when they find that perfect pair and for good reason. Shoes can notoriously say a lot about their wearer. Here are some cool characters we spotted this season.

Dolce & Gabanna

D & G

Saint Laurent, Prada, Bottega Veneta and  Thom Browne

shoes

Ralph Lauren

The Great Gatsby. This is simply beautiful. Lauren has clearly taken from the 30’s 3 piece here, which are my favorites because this is a man who is DRESSED. The collection also showed some nice looking clean casual pieces that make good solid staples in any man’s wardrobe.

 

ralph Lauren

Roberto Cavalli

Lets forget about the headbands here. That red jacket is such a standout and the snake print coat is so cool you should have to pass a coolness test to wear it. I don’t get the styling here at all, but who cares. Those 2 pieces are amazing.

Cavalli

Saint Laurent

So people have been going gaga over this new designer for Saint Laurent and I really honestly don’t get it. It’s derivative  and not really in a very successful way. Both the Men’s and Women’s lack polish and lack class. It all seems very sleazy and at the price you are paying that just doesn’t compute. So – yeah – I don’t get all the accolades. That all being said, these are Rocker clothes, and I cannot resist the rocker. Period.

St laurent

I think it’s obvious to see that many designers can’t put down that torch they have for the past. Many creative people began noticing the world in fine detail at the time of puberty. Whatever they saw at that crucial time has burned into their psyche the same way a first taste of rock and roll does to a musician – that Chuck Berry or The Beatles will always be an influence on thier style. Here we see it is no different for fashion. It’s probably the explanation for why fashion goes in 30 year cycles. As the preeminent designers at the time will likely be in their 30’s or 40’s doing throwbacks to their youth – making that era come alive all over again for a new crop of aspiring artists. SO are we doomed to repeat fashion over and over every 30 years? I don’t think doomed is the right word…

Certainly in Menswear, the classics are classic for good reason.