Tag Archives: Elie Saab

Resort 2016

Resort is what is on the floor right now. Hard to resolve for those trapped indoors by the east coast snowstorm – a dream of sandy beaches and glistening sun dappled pools… For most, these clothes are something they are going to be saving for the Spring or for when the airports reopen! I realize of course that Resort is a small showing. A tease of what’s to come. Something to tide us over in that otherwise dull shopping season that hits after Christmas and before the first glint of Springtime. It can be just for fun or it can be a chance to fill in some gaps in your wardrobe left by a good Spring cleaning. Whatever the case, these are our favorites from the 2016 collections.

Kaufmanfranco

Clean. This is really kinda a great approach to Resort because it is seasonless. This could be worn in Spring as is, Summer as is, Fall with a cropped jacket, Winter with a coat. Great for travel as it could easily dress up with heels and makeup or down with sandals and sunglasses. All around versatility, really can’t ask for more than that.

A Kaufmanfranco

Chloe

Love the length. Love the detail at the neck. Love the styling.

Chloé Resort

Burberry

Doing what they do best; the Raincoat. These were my favorites of the collection. I always say, do not undervalue the coat as it is often the only part of your outfit others will see.

The red is a perfect shade of crimson. The ivory lace is so charming. The graphic is vibrant and dramatic. Something for everyone here.

Burberry Prada

So this is one of those collections that is more of a preview for what will be coming up. I love mixed prints and these are really creative and artistically styled. On their own they aren’t that intriguing – but the styling makes for a really fascinating and artsy gal.  I think this girl is someone who is confident and creative. She also might be a giant pain in the ass, but perhaps that’s just the models’ expressions. In any case, I do think the clothes look fun to wear.

 Prada

 Lanvin

There is nothing particularity special here. I just love a floral floaty dress worn unexpectedly.

 Lanvin

Rebecca Taylor

I chose this seemingly innocuous floral dress for the detail at the shoulder and the placement of the all the elements. All are hitting in a very flattering way. I also think the slits in the skirt coupled with the abundance of fabric are a very nice way to create movement. It makes it seem very ethereal.  Bonus – It is lined! Hooray for reality.

Rebecca Taylor

Elie Saab

I like the scarves with these as they add some drama. The use of a palm frond in the prints is great too. For some reason I have always had an affinity for the palm print you see on beachy rattan chair cushions, it’s so cheezy yet I love it. I also like the use of black which makes them a little tougher, more rocker chic. Pretty darn cool for florals.

Elie Saab

Carolina Herrera

This! This dress is instant classic. The shape of the skirt is perfect with just enough fullness to make it dramatic without being a ball gown pouf. The color is sophisticated which is very Herrera, and the oversized print is almost cool like Andy Warhol. It’s more than just pretty. But it is definitely pretty too.

Carolina Herrera

 Gucci

So I’m still not sold on the gimmicks being used by the new designer Alessandro Michele. They are distracting and unnecessary and frankly don’t vibe with the chic Gucci aesthetic. Yet another of these houses who are desperate to get the young customer into the stores at any cost, even the dignity of their label. If this wasn’t under the Gucci label I would like it much more. That being said I really do like the colors, the nod to chinoiserie (even though it seems kinda done already) and I even like the corsages of fabric flowers which are charming in their tattiness. I could live without the ruffles and tiers which seem like bad 1970’s prom details. And as I said before the styling is a distracting and unnecessary mess.

 Gucci

Givenchy

I don’t like the Easter colors. At all. no. What I love are the rosaries and the netted lace and the tassels and the chains, oh my!

The pinstripes on that suit are chains. That is such a cool idea (she says like a jealous fashion student) and I can’t imagine how long it took to tack those down. I’ll bet it sparkles and weighs a ton. Niiiiiiiice.

Givenchy

Valentino

This selection shown below from the collection is almost a big as most designers entire Resort offering. Leave it to Valentino to show a diabolical 82 looks. HOW do they deliver?

What can I say really? Time and again they are the bellwether for most other designers. Because of Valentino, runways are littered with long, narrow, sheer, beaded dresses in floral or ethnic designs. There are countless nipped in, lean, embroidered and embellished jackets and coats. Their influence is undeniable. Here it is so apparent why. They make impeccably cut garments that are detailed beautifully and artfully over and over again. When they do simple – it is flawless, when they go big – it is show stopping. My favorites of these favorites are the pajama romper ( and I hate rompers) the gilded coat at the end and the blue dress with the jewel toned and pale flowers.

Breathtaking and Covetable.

Valentino Valentino


Couture Fall 2015

Couture is less and less each year. Will it ever come back? Will we miss it if it goes away? Is it sustainable? It feels like many designers have taken the drama and theatre once reserved for the couture world into Ready to Wear. The opulence no longer reserved for bespoke. We see conceptual collections on the Fall and Spring runways as a matter of fact these days which kind of leaves the couture world out to dry. There was a time where Ready to Wear was strictly business, but an evolution – perhaps a revolution has begun and there seems no way around the inevitable. So let’s revel in the hand labored glory and decadence before it is gone forever. (At least in the commercial houses) Perhaps there will be personal designers hired by those who can afford it to make custom wardrobes, then we will have come full circle won’t we? I mean, we have boutique cheese shops now right? Full circle.

Alexis Mabille

This was less of a collection and more of a showcase. Perfect for couture. A wardrobe – I love when the designers do this because you get a full portrait of the customer. In this case literally as the models are likely customers who have been photographed beautifully in impeccable fantastical gowns.

I would pay money to see what happens with those beads on the first dress when she moves.

I love the colors together and the placement in the lace gown. Ice blue and cranberry are so dynamic and here they are so masterfully layered  – it’s exquisite. (I don’t think I have ever used that word here before). Then in the last that mossy green velvet ombre against the fleshy pale pink is totally inspiring. The crystal beading just pushes it over the top into total decadence. I feel moved when I look at this – it is like a Dutch painting. Masterful work yet these are just my three favorites, see them all here > Alexis Mabille
Alexis Mabille

Elie Saab

Here is an example of a designer who has taken the look of couture to Ready to Wear. Saab’s gowns in this collection would fit into any of his Ready to Wear groups easily. There is only the difference of the work involved and naturally the resulting cost. These are all beautiful gowns which will hopefully never be worn by a real housewife yet that seems inevitable too.

Elie Saab

Giambattista Valli

This one look was a standout – not just for the color but for the flawless draping. It is perfect. Perfect, timeless, flattering, strong, sexy, dynamic, stunning. Shoes? YES! Yes YEs YES

Giambattista Valli 2

I had to include these detail shots because they are just so beautiful and artisanal.

The last shot appeared in my pinterest feed and I was blown away by that cloudlike silhouette.

Giambattista Valli

Schiaparelli

Schiaparelli has become my hands down favorite couturier over the years. The back catalog of the house is intoxicating and full of surrealism. They stay true to the house and always offer some playful surrealist nods which are much appreciated, while also making modern costumes for extremely exclusive and damn lucky women. There are moments of ooh and ahh’s that are truly earned here.

Schiaparelli

Valentino

I feel bad saying it but I don’t think Valentino has ever been better than it is now. This collection is more of a full offering which seems crazy and downright foolish in this economic environment yet they do it every time. There were 59 looks in this collection. That’s a lot for a Ready to Wear collection let alone couture. They must be killing it financially to sustain this. Good for them – the clothes are truly special and I have said many times that they are the new vintage pieces. Designed for today, tomorrow, the future, the past. These are heirloom garments. The first group was my favorite featuring the Greco Roman Velvet gowns and jewelry. Audrey Hepburn could wear these as easily as your friends’ stylish Mother. The latter of the group aren’t as accessible and go back to that couture as costume idea but the they are stunning and exotic and luxury personified.

Valentino

Zuhair Murad

Another example – like Saab – of a designers whos couture looks and RTW could be interchanged. The theme here was celestial and at times got a bit too Disney for me. These three felt the most successful because they didn’t get too tied to the theme. These three evolved into inspired and inspiring.

Zuhair Murad


Couture 2015

Here we are again between Pre Fall and the blitzkrieg that is Fall. The notorious Couture shows in all their decadent glory. Not much I can say that I haven’t said before so lets just jump right on in.

Elie Saab

Couture is at the core of Elie Saab. The collection had many beautiful offerings worthy of adoration but this one stood out. The choice of the soft dove gray made it feel antique without looking like a doily. It is sexy and demure at the same time somehow, which is so intriguing. I love the handkerchief drape from the waist, how it carries the top down through the gown. It’s so delicate that it’s angelic. Lovely.

Elie Saab

Alexis Mabille

Okay, so yes the first dress is a bit Beauty Pageant with the sequins and the sweetheart neckline but hear me out. That gather in the center at the waist is very dynamic, it takes the taste level and the elegance to where the inventor of sequin probably intended. Get that lady on the phone ’cause she needs to see this. The second dress is Madame Butterfly dramatic. I love the fit and flare of the skirt with the almost casual drape of the neckline. I do wish the collar was a bit more narrow but it’s couture! They can fix that for you Madame! The sleeves are all drama and the colors are head turners. I’m sure the fashion police would tear this to shreds but I cannot resist the impact of those bright flowers and that huge scarlet lined sleeve.

Alexis Mabille

Ulyana Sergeenko

This is so – dare I say it? FUN. I usually hate when people use “Fun” as a verb but I am stuck here. These are just costume enough to be kitschy, and just real enough to be remarkable. I see Dita Von Tease.

 These are modern day Costume, albeit in the way that fashion is referred to historically as costume. They may not be modern but they are definitely charming and whimsical and yes, fun. All things that are absolutely appropriate for the genre of Couture.

Ulyana Sergeenko

Schiaparelli

 The collection as a whole harkens back to the days when continental women of means would go to their (design) house of choice to have their wardrobe created for the season. Can you image being able to go your favorite designer to have your measurements taken, then asked what your plans were for the season??

Oh a weekend at a friend’s château in the south of France followed by a month at the Paris apartment. A 2 week tour of Egyptian ruins, then a quick jaunt over to the Swiss Alps to visit my aunt at her Chalet… la de dah.

This feels like it has been designed for a charming, quirky yet cosmopolitan lady of leisure. Dare to Dream. You see – this is what couture is meant to do. This collection takes you there.

Schiaparelli

This green dress in particular is the one that everyone would remember. It’s the type of dress that you hand down to your daughters, generation after generation. It’s fantastic.

Schiaparelli 2

Valentino

These first two Valentino gowns in Velvet are very simple and very perfect. A simple couture gown should live forever, these will do that.

Valentino 1

I love the heavy traditional ethnic embroideries, especially on the boots where it is more unexpected. This is very much in the vain of the new Valentino where ethnic is the new modern. The colorful embroideries on the first look are what you can call bang for your buck . By definition “Couture” is hand sewn, if all that embroidery is hand sewn I cannot imagine how long it must have taken to complete. The result then is truly a work of very expensive folk art.

The second dress with the lace hearts is fascinating somehow. The lightness is intriguing and the lacework is truly spectacular.

The boots are killers and I am certain we will see knock offs of “embroidered” boots all over the market soon. It’s pretty remarkable that Valentino has managed to make something as demure as embroidery so egdy and yeah, cool.

Valentino

Zuhair Murad

…aaaand the Oscar goes to…

The little girl in me who wanted to be a “muse” after I first saw Xanadu squealed when I saw these. Not that they look like anything from that which is one of the best rollerskating mythos based 80’s movies of all time….But that these are gowns that are to be worn by this mytical creature. These are ethereal, twinkly, provocative, goddess gowns for the ages. Oh yeah, and the last look…its pants. Someone call Kate Hudson! Oh my God.

Only Couture ; )

Zuhair Murad


Fall 2014 Couture Review

Its a well known fact that couture has suffered in the last few decades. The glorious wealth that was the lifeblood of the houses has dwindled dramatically. Those houses that have continued to offer a couture collection do so cautiously and as a result couture is no longer the showcase it once was. Sure there have always been elegant sophisticated offerings but historically couture represented the high art of fashion.  The evolution has been of the fittest and we have seen the shows become more for the clients and less for the designer. Sad for the artists but good for the investor.  It seems that the transition from fantasy to reality has changed the perception a bit as well. At least for myself who now sees a couture purchase as a commitment and an investment.  More so than ever, it is about truly outstanding garments that do one or both of the following things: Make a statement and Encapsulate a persona.

Giambattista Valli

Old Hollywood meet young Hollywood. It’s not often where you see clothes that would work on such different types as Rihanna and Cate Blanchett – but here they are. This is “Hollywood” in the most flattering meaning possible. These are Lucille Ball by the pool in her heyday or Claudette Colbert gliding into 21 for dinner with her latest producer. I love this. Gorgeous!

Giambattista Valli

Elie Saab

Saab always shows red carpet gowns and dresses in both couture and Ready to Wear. He has it down to a science and is instantly recognizable by any in the know. This dress however is practically a departure from the beaded intricate looks for which he is known. This ombre firecracker is stunningly simple, dramatic, sophisticated and daring.  Normally I would shy away from something as telling of an era like ombre, (which could end up being the synthesizer of fashion trends) but here it is done with such subtlety that it looks natural. Lovely.

Elie Saab

Ulyana Sergeenko

German Bombshell. This is like if Disney did a spy thriller. Totally dramatic, totally sexy, pure fantasy. Modern Day Garbo with just the right amount of edge. The fetish folks will dig it, the Retro Girls will covet it and the glamourous will applaud it. Someone call Dita Von Tease!

Ulyana Sergeenko

Armani Prive

Speaking of fetish right? There seems to be an element of the underground being celebrated in this collection. The fishnet swing coat and rhinestone encrusted netting are so elevated here that they almost slip under the radar. The result is a suspiciously kinky and sexy story from the usually tame Armani. Not a beige in the bunch nor a pastel to be seen.  And those shoes – the shoes are devastating! Such a great interpretation. It’s wonderful to see this genre being given an elegant treatment.

Armani Privé

Dior

I will never look at Dior with the googly eyes I had for them when it was designed by Galliano – no matter what he was an incredible creative.  That being said, I can almost see his influence (at long last) creeping in with the addition of these frock coats. Perhaps someone over there is looking into the archives? Nonetheless, these coats – the fantastical frocks and the practical navy’s, are great. They hold their own despite not really seeming to belong to the same collection. Maybe the frock coats are just an example of the evolution which led to the modern navy looks on the left? I’m not sure the path but the outcome offers some lovely, totally chic staples. That first coat is so solid and so necessary that it’s like a smack in the forehead.  And the second – there is so much personality in that coat that you don’t even need the girl.

Dior

Valentino

Couture! This is what it is all about. Range.

This collection has the clean modern looks on which you would be confidant spending thousands of dollars. This white off shoulder is so thoughtfully cut that you can see they knew just how to get out of the way that fabric. One of the hardest things in design is to just let the medium speak – let it become it’s most beautiful manifestation without complicating it to satisfy your ego.

Valentino 1

Then there are the fantasy looks – the dreamy romantics you hope to see gliding down the runways so you can sigh longingly at the beauty.

Valentino 2

Finally they wrap it up with this stellar intricately beaded and encrusted gown that just leaves you breathless. This is couture.  Stand up and applaud – this is the real deal.

Valentino 3

As always feedback would be appreciated 😉

Until next time – Cheers!