Tag Archives: Grunge

Pre Fall 2016

It’s going to be so sad around here when the embellishment trend is over. It’s getting so gloriously out of hand that its doom is assured. Fashion cannot, will not tolerate anything to go too far for too long. Soon it we be a big swing toward *minimalism and modernity, wha wha wha.

Enjoying this as much as I do it’s fun to see what I think is an influence coming from the reemergence of Cuba into the consciousness. There are so many beautiful bold colors and patterns shown by the likes of Valentino and Andrew Gn. Then there is the ongoing extravaganza happening over at Gucci. It’s so fun to see all these designers just pile it on. This is also apparently the time to stock up on those grunge era floral dresses as they are in just about every other collection. I am enjoying it while it lasts!

*(Although as I go though the images I am realizing that I included a few that could be described as just that – minimal and modern, and they look great. I guess what I mean to say is the trend that seems to have stolen the spotlight is embellishments while other houses will always continue to follow their own point of view. As they should.)

Here are my favorites from Pre Fall 2016…

 Jil Sander

This is more of the slouch look that I really have been enjoying from the past year. This is also minimalist and modern – but that is the Jil Sander aesthetic so they would likely rather shutter their doors than stitch on a single sequins. I really like this though, the wide trouser is easy and cool and the coat is like a modern New Yorkers idea of a Navaho blanket coat. It’s cool girl – but it’s also easily cool woman. Now that is refreshing.

 Jil Sander

Adam Lippes

Moving on here we see a touch of the inevitable leopard jacket that almost everyone seems to be showing these days. Hey – a perennial favorite – no complaints here. I like this group because it’s full of essential separates and solid staples. It feels very collegiate sophisticate. A good solid base for a young woman just building a wardrobe.

Adam Lippes

 Michael Kors

Always super wearable and distinctly American in the best way. Kors has this unique ability to channel the best styles from eras of American fashion and funnel them into modern looks. I love a printed trouser because I love clothes that do the work for you. With a good print you can easily print match or just go with a basic solid on top and still look stylish. The dress is versatile which is the mainstay of sportswear, add a little jacket or cardigan and you can wear the hell out of it. The coat is a great cut, and would be just as cool for evening as dressed down with jeans. Good old American sportswear I tell ya.

 Michael Kors

 No. 21

I have been waiting for the floral dress to come back for so long. It really feels like we haven’t seen this since the 1990’s grunge era. I had at least 6 and loved to wear them more than any other look since then. I wish I still had them but sadly I actually wore through my favorite ones and must have sold the others. In any case about 10 years ago I was looking everywhere for a simple long dress that I could layer and wear with boots or sandals and there weren’t any. ANYWHERE. So hooray for the return of the printed floral dress. I love the classic colors here, and the pleating feels cool and swingy. The babydoll dress and coat are respectively charming and studenty. (I like to add the letter “y” to words.) The coat has that look like a fashion student would love it (in the best way) because it is actually pretty cool. The last look is a nice marriage of both and I dig it.

 No. 21

 Rochas

More of that grunge influence in the styling and the “house dress” element. Love the colors and the florals being mixed with plaids and leopard. These combos are an all time favorite ever since I saw my first Ralph Lauren campaign. The slouchy coats are hip and easy, and that thigh slit is genus. The gold dress is just the right amount of frumpy, kind of like,”It’s so ugly it’s cool” right? The leopard coat is a nice one for sure. I particularly like the print itself as the color is less golden and more beige. The last dress has got a little break at the floor like a men’s trouser and that’s a pretty nifty detail.

 Rochas

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

I included this one more for the ideas. The first dress is really feminine and pretty just begging to be worn with a masculine element like boots or a mens jacket/moto jacket. Just not a fan of the print. Same with the skirt next to it, I love the shape, the lightweight fabric and pairing it with the plaid shirt, just don’t like the print. The final look features a skirt that is probably one of the best skirts I have ever seen. I love the extra long length, the pleats down the front, the tie at the side, it is the epitome of cool girl. The possiblilites of looks is endless: a simple white beater and boots with a leather jacket or layer on a slouchy ivory sweater or tuck in a loose silk blouse sloppily and pair it with a strappy flat sandal. I just want it.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Erdem

Now these prints I love.

The first dress is just as simply pretty as it is ripe to be paired with a masculine element. It is so ready to be worn as a grunge dress just add boots and a leather jacket or oversized cardigan. The next looks are all about the print. Love dark colors contrasting against pastels.

Erdem

Just Cavalli

The First dress is a great throw it on to cover all sins dress – everyone needs one of those. The rest is just straight up grunge for the modern gal. The red leather insert on that jacket is clean and makes it special. The floral dress is just right, not too fussy or frilly, just enough length and transformable through accessories. Some good staples here.

Just Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli

Overall very costumey when styled all together like this. It’s as if you fell into an Aerosmith/Stevie Knicks acid laced smoothie. There are certainly some pieces you could cherry pick out of here that are amazing.  The jackets alone are outstanding and have so much potential of being your new favorite thing. The rest is just for fun.

Roberto Cavalli Roberto Cavalli

Gucci

Did someone say fuuuuun??? Yeah I know I hate that term unless you are talking to toddlers but really what else can I say? This is fucking fun. Here is a continuation of the theme from the last collection with the snakes and the trompe l’oeil… It’s iconic and great for the new designer to make his mark but I hope he moves on soon before it all starts to look like one long collection. That being said, whenever a designer goes full imaginarium there is always some amazing work to snatch up if you can. I am reminded of the original Moschino and his iconic surreal collections. These are investment pieces. And the gold pleated skirt is just really awesome and I really want it.

Roberto Cavalli

 Andrew Gn

Here is that Cuban look I was mentioning earlier. The colors, the styling and the vintage feel all take me to Cuba. I really love the sweet feminine designs with the bold colors. There is an energy to these clothes that is very unique. I especially love the lace inset blouses, they are so delicate and bold at the same time. Its exciting, truly.

 Andrew Gn

Valentino

Yet another stunning collection from Valentino. Full of energy and fantasy. The first group of looks have an Asian ethereal feel that is so calming yet have the energy of motion. Like a meditation by the water. I love the painterly colors – you don’t often see such colors, (for example in the skirt) in textiles they are more often seen used by artists. Subtle and powerful. The dresses are so lovely that it doesn’t bother me that they are the same silhouette and the same see through dress that has been done to death over the last few seasons. If you were going to wear one – wear one of these. The second group must be more of the Asian theme because of the dragon, but I just saw Cuba. The vibrant colors and graphic use of stars and explosive imagery. It is more in your face power as opposed to the earlier looks’ more subtle strength. I love these all, just inspiring!

Valentino Valentino

Advertisements

Resort 2016

Resort is what is on the floor right now. Hard to resolve for those trapped indoors by the east coast snowstorm – a dream of sandy beaches and glistening sun dappled pools… For most, these clothes are something they are going to be saving for the Spring or for when the airports reopen! I realize of course that Resort is a small showing. A tease of what’s to come. Something to tide us over in that otherwise dull shopping season that hits after Christmas and before the first glint of Springtime. It can be just for fun or it can be a chance to fill in some gaps in your wardrobe left by a good Spring cleaning. Whatever the case, these are our favorites from the 2016 collections.

Kaufmanfranco

Clean. This is really kinda a great approach to Resort because it is seasonless. This could be worn in Spring as is, Summer as is, Fall with a cropped jacket, Winter with a coat. Great for travel as it could easily dress up with heels and makeup or down with sandals and sunglasses. All around versatility, really can’t ask for more than that.

A Kaufmanfranco

Chloe

Love the length. Love the detail at the neck. Love the styling.

Chloé Resort

Burberry

Doing what they do best; the Raincoat. These were my favorites of the collection. I always say, do not undervalue the coat as it is often the only part of your outfit others will see.

The red is a perfect shade of crimson. The ivory lace is so charming. The graphic is vibrant and dramatic. Something for everyone here.

Burberry Prada

So this is one of those collections that is more of a preview for what will be coming up. I love mixed prints and these are really creative and artistically styled. On their own they aren’t that intriguing – but the styling makes for a really fascinating and artsy gal.  I think this girl is someone who is confident and creative. She also might be a giant pain in the ass, but perhaps that’s just the models’ expressions. In any case, I do think the clothes look fun to wear.

 Prada

 Lanvin

There is nothing particularity special here. I just love a floral floaty dress worn unexpectedly.

 Lanvin

Rebecca Taylor

I chose this seemingly innocuous floral dress for the detail at the shoulder and the placement of the all the elements. All are hitting in a very flattering way. I also think the slits in the skirt coupled with the abundance of fabric are a very nice way to create movement. It makes it seem very ethereal.  Bonus – It is lined! Hooray for reality.

Rebecca Taylor

Elie Saab

I like the scarves with these as they add some drama. The use of a palm frond in the prints is great too. For some reason I have always had an affinity for the palm print you see on beachy rattan chair cushions, it’s so cheezy yet I love it. I also like the use of black which makes them a little tougher, more rocker chic. Pretty darn cool for florals.

Elie Saab

Carolina Herrera

This! This dress is instant classic. The shape of the skirt is perfect with just enough fullness to make it dramatic without being a ball gown pouf. The color is sophisticated which is very Herrera, and the oversized print is almost cool like Andy Warhol. It’s more than just pretty. But it is definitely pretty too.

Carolina Herrera

 Gucci

So I’m still not sold on the gimmicks being used by the new designer Alessandro Michele. They are distracting and unnecessary and frankly don’t vibe with the chic Gucci aesthetic. Yet another of these houses who are desperate to get the young customer into the stores at any cost, even the dignity of their label. If this wasn’t under the Gucci label I would like it much more. That being said I really do like the colors, the nod to chinoiserie (even though it seems kinda done already) and I even like the corsages of fabric flowers which are charming in their tattiness. I could live without the ruffles and tiers which seem like bad 1970’s prom details. And as I said before the styling is a distracting and unnecessary mess.

 Gucci

Givenchy

I don’t like the Easter colors. At all. no. What I love are the rosaries and the netted lace and the tassels and the chains, oh my!

The pinstripes on that suit are chains. That is such a cool idea (she says like a jealous fashion student) and I can’t imagine how long it took to tack those down. I’ll bet it sparkles and weighs a ton. Niiiiiiiice.

Givenchy

Valentino

This selection shown below from the collection is almost a big as most designers entire Resort offering. Leave it to Valentino to show a diabolical 82 looks. HOW do they deliver?

What can I say really? Time and again they are the bellwether for most other designers. Because of Valentino, runways are littered with long, narrow, sheer, beaded dresses in floral or ethnic designs. There are countless nipped in, lean, embroidered and embellished jackets and coats. Their influence is undeniable. Here it is so apparent why. They make impeccably cut garments that are detailed beautifully and artfully over and over again. When they do simple – it is flawless, when they go big – it is show stopping. My favorites of these favorites are the pajama romper ( and I hate rompers) the gilded coat at the end and the blue dress with the jewel toned and pale flowers.

Breathtaking and Covetable.

Valentino Valentino


A Holiday Revival

Since the holidays unrelenting approach I have been busy.

Too busy as it seems to tend to this poor neglected blog. This is my bleated effort to stay current until I can finish the upcoming “Fall 2015 Review”, (which is embarrassingly late at this point). I have made reference to our Fashion Manifesto a few times in previous posts. It is one of the very first posts on our original blog (located over at blogger) and it was written back when I had time to spare. I keep thinking about it as I peruse the Pre-Fall 2015 look books and see shot after shot of Retro influences. So I thought since I don’t have the time now – nor do I foresee time becoming available until after the holiday blitzkrieg – that a revival of the good old gal was in order. In the meantime if you find you want to keep up with the enexile “feed” (sorry) you can always follow us on Pinterest – where we have TONS of inspiration organized into teeny digital boards.

I Hope you enjoy it and  Happy Holidays from enexile – Cheers!

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Historic Style


This is what I do best.
Clothes, fashion, styling, accessorizing, merchandising. I love it all. But I don’t love the trends, never have, though what is wonderful about fashion comes from the trends and after all they can be fun. I see the necessity, trends introduce the masses to new ideas and show variations of style, which is what I love about “fashion”, STYLE. I love to tell strangers that I dig their shoes, hat, top… whatever. Everyone loves a compliment, and when I get one from a stranger, it makes my day. We all like to think that we have style. I always thought that style was something you were born with, but as I’ve gotten older I really feel that though it can be innate (in a blessed few) it can also be developed. I have known several people who were uninspired, but after being exposed to good tailoring, good fit, flattering cuts etc – took to fashion gradually – and developed a real sense of personal style. So I encourage everyone I know to experiment, to try new things. If you’re spending any money at all on clothes, then you might as well spend it wisely. Style does not have to come with a huge price tag, fashion might but style  (once developed) can come from thrifting, discount stores, or high end boutiques. As long as you know what works for you. Then you can decide how much you want to invest in your wardrobe.

  Fashion presents itself in the form of trends – which are basically reactions to the last big thing. If “skinny jeans” are popular – you better believe the “full leg pant” will be on the runway next season. “Short is in“ ? Hell no … by the time people are wearing “short” at the mall – it’ll be all about “long“. So don’t bother. My advice is to take advantage of the trends (when the stores are stocked with options) to get the best piece for your long term wardrobe. If short is in, then here is your chance to invest in the short skirts or dresses that your wardrobe has been lacking. If you have style then you won’t care what is “in” and you’ll wear your favorite mini when everyone else says it’s “out“. Most likely it’s not the people that are on trend, but the people who are wearing what is “out“, (and WEARING IT WELL) that are the ones designers look to for inspiration. Be one who inspires, that is something to aspire to, and it will NEVER go out of style.


Speaking of never going out of style, here are my thoughts on what has been born from trend – yet has become timeless over the decades. I have kept fashion journals, I guess you could call them since high school and anything that I clipped from a magazine in 1989 that I look at today and still love – that is what I consider good design, good fashion and ultimately a good investment. These are my favorites from each decade…

From 1900 to 2010, here are my picks:

1900The Corset – at the time if you DIDN’T wear one you would have been shunned by proper society, yet ironically now it is considered risque. What a fantastic evolution. I certainly don’t suggest that you wear a corset everyday, but they are a beautiful piece when worked into a dress or jacket. They have never gone out of style.

The Original, the Modern and the Dolce & Gabbana

 

 

1910The Gowns -Now, obviously they had dresses prior to the 1910’s, but not yet like this. These were “gowns” not big fussy evening ensembles. This was a glorious era for intricately beaded, laced and trimmed gowns. If you look at old drawings of gowns from this decade, they are clear blueprints for the red carpet gowns of the generations that follow.

1920The Beads – beaded gowns, beaded bags, piles of long layered beaded necklaces. We can thank the flappers for all that beaded glory. Love it!!

 

From Coco Chanel to Louis Vuitton 2011

 

 

1930The Bias. The Bias cut was a revolution that hit in the 1930’s and draping was reborn. Fashion was changed forever, and my favorite example of the era manifested not in the evening wear, but in the nightgowns. Nothing says romance more to me than the silk nightgowns from the 1930’s, bias cut with touches of lace are so feminine, and just as sexy now as ever. I collect them fiercely whenever I can.

Jean Harlow to Donna Karen Spring 2011

Jean Harlow to Donna Karen Spring 2011

 

 

1940 – So much to offer – how does one thing stand out?
First and foremost is the amazing and classic hairstyles. Some of the most iconic looks come from the era of limited shampoo! Ironic. Veronica Lake, Rita Hayworth and many more of the glamour icons were featured in this decade. Versions of these hairstyles can be found easily in the decades that followed.

Veronica Lake and her iconic hairstyle

Veronica Lake and her iconic hairstyle

For clothing, this is a toss up between the Platform Shoe, and the Structured Suit. The Platform Shoe has been victimized by fashion many times over the years (hello 70’s – UGH!) but is best in it’s classic state – the platform peep toe is a definite classic. The structured suit for women will always be a staple, and we can thank the 40’s for some beautiful originals.

Carmen Miranda and her platforms, some lovely 1940's ladies off to work in their modern suits, and Dita Von Tease rocking the whole look today.

Carmen Miranda and her platforms, some lovely 1940’s ladies off to work in their modern suits, and Dita Von Tease rocking the whole look today.

 

 

1950 – Again I am torn, this time between the makeup and the clothing. First the classic 1950’s makeup. The big black false eyelashes, liquid liner and simple red lip are perfection. They will always look clean and fresh while looking youthful and feminine. For clothing – HANDS DOWN ICONIC – the blue jeans and the leather biker jacket. (Thank you Marlon Brando in “The Wild One”)

Who's a more perfect example of 1950's makeup than Marilyn?

Who’s a more perfect example of 1950’s makeup than Marilyn?

NOBODY is cooler than Brando

NOBODY is cooler than Brando

 

 

1960The boots. Love a great pair of knee high boots! This is also the birth of the mini skirt. Two looks that will forever be in style, regardless of trends. Find me a man who doesn’t love a woman in a mini! (Not that we dress to please men – just stating a fact)

1960s boots

 

 

1970 – So many wonderful fashion moments happened in this era despite the events of the decade. Here are the highlights for me: (all the runway looks are of like minded Balmain Spring and Fall 2011 respectively)

The Americana – the 70’s are responsible for most all of the looks that have become associated with the badassery of America, the American flag jean Jacket, the aviator sunglasses, the beat up leather pants – basically anything worn in “Easy Rider” (I realize easy rider came out in ‘69 – but it’s fashion impact hit in the 70’s for sure)
americana

Punk – One of fashion’s greatest muses. Tight leather, brightly colored hair cut wildly, metal as an accessory, I could go on…but I know you get it.

punk collage

Glam – Which I personally credit to David Bowie. Thank you David Bowie for your contribution to fashion and music and all culture in general.

glam collage
1980Goth! The era where punk meets sweet misery, and Goth is born amongst the neon and Lucite in a moment of fashion history. A personal favorite of mine as I was walking proof in my teens. I love to see Goth revived over and over on the runways – though black has never been “out” in my wardrobe…

(Top) Siouxie and The Banshees circa 1980, compared to (Left) Givency 2009 and this shot of  the Chanel Runway 2011.

(Top) Siouxie and The Banshees circa 1980, compared to (Left) Givenchy 2009 and this shot of the Chanel Runway 2011.

 

 

1990Grunge. I said it! I’ll never get tired of the juxtaposition of feminine and tough. We saw it here first when the baby doll dress was paired defiantly with army boots and plaid was given it’s 15 minutes of fame. Beat up jeans were reborn at ridiculous prices for the trendy (but dirt cheap for those who actually had kept their jeans – perfect example of how fashion always repeats.)

Marc Jacobs did grunge most famously (left) in Vogue 1992

Marc Jacobs did grunge most famously (left) in Vogue 1992

 

 

2000 – This admittedly is a tough one. It’s so close that it’s hard to have perspective. But here is my best bet. The hipster…much of what the hipsters wore in the millennium was retro with a twist, which will continue to define the hip in their future manifestations as it has in the former. But there are always a few new ideas that come about in the mix that help tie that particular group to their decade. In the case of the “Y” generation hipster, the most sustainable ( to use a term from their era ) were:
1.The side slung belt, or the layering of belts. Textured, colored whatever…the belt was a necessity worn off center or backwards, often layered 2 or 3 deep. This look still works for me, and I think it’s
a keeper.

The band "The Kills" is a shining example of hipster styling

The band “The Kills” is a shining example of hipster styling

 

2. The Vest. Now I know what your saying…the vest is by no means new. It’s been around FOREVER, but the way it was vested…now here me out. Yes, we saw the vest over the tee in the 80’s on the likes of Debbie Gibson (who ruined hats in the 80‘s also BTW) but she wasn‘t the only one. They were worn open, loose, over tee shirts with big breast pockets, paired with bike shorts (UGH!!) and to make it even worse – baggy socks and patent leather shoes tied with a bow! TRAGIC. I was one of the guilty, I did it too and I am ashamed. After this trendy application I never thought vests could make a comeback, but come 2000 the hipsters proved me wrong! It was done well by the Y-Gen, they took the vest and gave it proper distinction by choosing the tweeds, the worn leathers, the dignified vests. Coupled with the hipster trademark thin tee and skinny pant ( and belts) maybe throw in a few jumbled necklaces, one of those loosely slung scarves and viola! Hipster! The point is that the vest triumphed, and I for one was impressed at it’s cool rebirth. I now give the vest it’s proper due. The Vest…Is cool.

vest collage

So all this leads me to the point.

Hang onto those skinny jeans – they will be back in 6 to 8 years. Hold onto everything actually – if it still fits, keep it – it’ll come back in style, and if it’s a good solid well made piece it’ll be a shining example of timeless. I guarantee this to be true. In fact, I challenge you to make a fashion time capsule, take all the clothes you feel are not in style, (if this is an issue for you at all, really you should just wear what you like and not worry about it) and put it in a box for 10-12 years and trust me, those pieces will be cool again. In some cases, you will be considered fashion forward! The only issue then will be if YOU have moved on, not fashion.