Tag Archives: Gucci

Pre Fall 2017

So Pre Fall landed with a bit of a thud. There wasn’t that much happening on the runways that was terribly interesting.  Perhaps the general lack of inspiring moments came from the designers now showing at different times? The industry has been facing a transition of its own lately where some designers – in an attempt to keep up with the immediate demands of social media addicted clients – are opting to hold off on showing until the moment they are ready to sell. Cutting the wait and allowing the public shop now. You may already be seeing little bags next to the designers name indicating you can buy it “direct from the runway” as opposed to waiting the traditional 3-4 months for promotion and distribution. Resulting in a large gap between shows of the same season. For example, Pre-Fall 2017 began showing as far back as November of 2016 and as recently as last week! Maybe this is why the designers are off their game. They are out of sync with the industry, the customers and the season.

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I love well made, high quality clothes that you can just throw on. No brain required because some days I just can’t. I would like to buy and wear these all today. (See? No patience!)

Nili Lotan

There is a hint of the early 2000’s here with the slip dress and sweater set, but I don’t mind it because it’s looks modern. What’s interesting about that is that if you had slip dresses and sweaters from the nineties, now they would  be validated as timeless and classic pieces. Its simple, chic, sexy and cool.

Ulla Johnson

These feel more like Resort than Pre Fall but regardless of that how cute! Perfect for anything from vacation wear to an afternoon wedding. Young, spirited and like, bouncy? Yeah.

Monse

This collection is interesting because it has an avant-garde attitude yet the clothes themselves are innocuous. They aren’t drastic and attention seeking, in fact they are quite elegant and chic. They’re avant-garde for the cocktail class, in much the same vein as Vivianne Westwood. Plus I love the jewel tones, particularly the yellow and teal blue and especially in those rich fabrics. It’s all very art culture and could define the nouveau high society art scene.

Erdem

In my mind I have classified Erdem as one of the more feminine houses. They tend to use florals regularly and cut more ladylike shapes so working in the seasons colors of pink and blue was no hardship. But I applaud them for taking things further with some volume in the silhouettes and by adding some bolder colors into the collection. While I do love the pale sequins looks, my favorite here is the yellow brocade gown. (I also really want the floral stockings)

Temperley London

I wonder how pissed off Erdem and Temperly were when they realized they both had pastel sequins gowns with floral appliques? That’s one hell of a coincidence. Though my favorite has to be the red and black print dress which is stunning and unique.

Gucci

I would like to order the tiger skirt, the dragon topcoat, the pink chinoiserie print skirt and the red all over print dress. It’s so much but if you can cut though the glare the clothes are so insanely fun and chic. It reminds me of Todd Oldham in a way – the playful unashamed frivolity. It’s wonderful to see all this again – but I still can’t help but feel that the days are numbered when you go this big. I’m going to enjoy it while I can.

J. Medel

More so the ambiance than the actual clothes, although the dresses are pretty. These colors, the dusty shades of blue and gray and the deep red and pink cut into these overtly romantic tiered and ruffled gowns, they are so loud in their softness. They create a mood around them and it’s just lovely. I’m inspired to paint like an old master, Rembrandt or Willem van Aelst. The romance and richness are beautiful.

example of the Dutch painting style


Spring 2017 RTW

Is it just me or did the Spring offerings look more like Resort than the layerable looks we usually get for the season of crisp mornings and drizzly afternoons? The Pajama trend was still abound even though it has had a pretty good ride last year. There we plenty of light floaty dresses and thin tunics over palazzo pants – Resort right? Perhaps many designers are simply adding their resort items to the Spring lineup, or they just said fuck it and went for full summer wardrobes. Not sure, but it definitely felt off balance.

Hellessy

What I really love about these two looks is that I could probably wear them. No problem. Like, tomorrow. They would layer easily and they look comfortable and fluid. They could be accessorized with long necklaces, cropped jackets, sweaters, boots or sandals. They look easy, simple, but well made and quite lovely. Wrap ’em up!

hellessy

Stella Jean

Clothes for Carrie Bradshaw’s  hypothetical art school dropout little sister to wear on her vacation to Tahiti. Sex in the City had one of the best costumers in the business, Patricia Field and she is probably the reason why so many designers style their offerings in odd combinations and layers. I loved it then, when it was totally jarring in some instances and completely dumbfoundingly brilliant in others, and I love it here now. These clothes are playful, they are whimsical and they make me want to get crazy. Bravo.

stella-jean

Gary Graham

Ever since I became aware of Gary Graham I have become an increasingly bigger fan. The clothes are interesting. The styling is decidedly cool girl where the clothes could border on being old lady hippie. The way they walk that line fascinates me and keeps me coming back to see what they have next. This time out there is a nifty group of dusty florals and bohemian made at home feeling silhouettes. Simple shapes, layered in interesting ways that result in something I’d expect to see on Lisa Bonet. Who is awesome btw. I wonder if she wears this designer?

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Pringle of Scotland

I’m not really into plaid this year but when I come back around I’m going to think these are fantastic. Love when plaid is used in atypical ways like this draped lilting chiffon fabric. The stripes are great too in the design of the print and the choices of layering.

pringle-of-scotland

John Galliano

This season just as last season, there is a little hint of what we used to see in the lavish couture when Galliano was the head of Dior. Those were the days of Dangerous Liaisons esque drama with undertones of the Marquis De Sade. They were captivating. The wrapped and slung leather belts styled over the light floaty dresses are provocative yet tame enough to be accessible. The signature draping skills are in full force across shoulders and hips creating beauty in shape and form. Finally there’s a sprinkling of menswear that adds the edgy contrast that brings the cool factor. So good.

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Libertine

It’s hit and miss with Libertine as sometimes the embellishments don’t seem justified by the design. When it works though I’m a fan. Especially when they antagonize the Queen. Where would the English be without Punk Rock? My favorites here are the Union Jack dress and cardigan and the black silk slip dress. Love the contradiction of sexy and snarky.

libertine

Alexander McQueen

What’s so captivating about this collection is that there are some many different inspirations happening all at once. Yet they all work together to create a striking and fresh Frankenstein. There seems to be some tribal, some India, some Hasidic Jew, some punk and some English heritage all carefully worked into this new creation. It’s so fitting that this cultural mash up come at a time when we are having a global cultural clash of sorts with refugees and new leaders wreaking havoc. To see how it can all come together into something totally new and how it can all compliment each other. Maybe I’m getting too in my head, but that’s what I see here and its fucking awesome.

alexander-mcqueen

Haider Ackermann

Impeccable tailoring. Edgy. Coolest designer out there. It’s not out of the question that I may find myself staring a Haider Ackermann fan club. This man inspires such awe and devotion, he delivers time and again and it’s always contemporary yet stays relevant over time. These are forever clothes. We love you Hay ay der, oh yes we do-oo, we love you Hay ay der, and will be true…

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Cushnie et Ochs

Ba-Bam! Wow, someone call Chrissy Teigen cause these dresses are edgy and foxy all at the same time.

cushnie-et-ochs

Maticevski

Once again the play with volume is masterful. Like a sculptor who knows his medium, this designer has the ability to craft shapes that transcend clothes and become wearable art. After looking at this collection it’s difficult to appreciate other designers collections. The works shown here take your head out of the fashion bubble and into the gallery. It’s easy to see that this will become a new and exciting minimalist movement that will set the tone for the post embellishment era that is upcoming and inevitable.

maticevski

Antonio Marras

These outfits are striking. They immediately bring to mind a 1950’s socialite who set the trends. When she arrived at the party all the other ladies whispered their jealous disapprovals yet secretly wished they had the guts to wear something that different and ultimately fabulous.

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For Restless Sleepers

So this is a line of Pajamas. I didn’t get that right away because of the big PJ trend that’s been happening, but once I caught on it was like, GENUS! I fully intend to become a eccentric old lady who slinks about her elegant apartment admiring her collections from her travels and THESE will be my uniform. Not that I wouldn’t wear them now nor that I wouldn’t want every single one, because I do. I just couldn’t live in them as I plan on doing later. I wonder if they do layaway?

for-restless-sleepers

Dries Van Noten

There is a decidedly 1930’s feel to the clothes but I cant put my finger on why my mind goes there. Perhaps the yellows and oranges against the creamy white and blueback? It has a vintage postcard feel that is so French and intriguing. That lovely serene woman with impeccable style and uniqueness. Je ne sais quoi indeed.

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Dolce & Gabbana

Before there was Alessandro Michele there were Domenico and Stefano. These designers have set the bar for playful, sexy, bright and spectacular. And they do it again and again and again. The have a seemingly endless well from which to draw inspiration. They have never let me down when it comes to dealing out showstopper piece after piece of elaborately decorated garments bags and shoes. There will always be roses, there will always be corsets and there will always be black lace and gold trim. You can count on it.  It’s like coming home to a baroque embellished yet quaint village in Sicily for a glass of vino and a dance.

dolce-gabbana

Gucci

I said that I would no longer get angry at Gucci for having so much damn fun with this historic house, but my immediate response is NO! Stop it!

Why? Why does it freak me out so much every time? I know it’s going to be madness and color and ridiculous animal sweaters with stripes and sequin and on and on. Maybe it’s because it feels like a cheap Harajuku brand, or that it’s haphazard and ultimately doomed to become a cliché? A cheap thrill? Yet it endures still. I think it’s because I love over the top, stripes and sequins and color and rhinestones and tat and glory and I can’t stand to see it abused with abandon. Knowing it can’t possibly continue on at this breakneck pace. People will tire of it, the novelty will wear off and that will be that. (sigh) I’ll be so sad to see it go. It’s just so fucking fun to watch, and I really do love those bags and shoes and printed skirts with skull butterflies and sequin tigers and starbursts and beads and satin ruby red bows on celadon green skirts….*passes out*

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Men’s Spring 2017

My new neighbor is a 20 something man who is a model and in a band. He is gone for months at a time on tours so I guess his group has some success. He is definitely what I would refer to as a hipster, but in the most endearing way. You see he’s a bit awkward and decidedly geeky. When I see him he’s always dressed in bright colors wearing high-water pants and shrunken tee shirts with narrow jackets and occasionally glasses. I would classify his style as fitting with the new Gucci aesthetic and I get it. It’s pretty adorable because he’s such an earnest fellow. Normally I would say menswear should be more simple, clean and cool. But he makes me smile and I’m always curious to see what he’s put together. Honestly though not many over the age of 26 could pull off that style, but you gotta be you, no matter the age.  Fashion is really the easiest and most accessible form of self-expression. You fly your flag to seek your tribe. That’s why it’s so important.

Here are my favorites from the Menswear Spring 2017 collections.

Gucci

I can see now that fighting against the new Gucci aesthetic is a waste of energy. I am finally at the point where I know what it’s going to be and that they have no intention of puling back on the excess. Okay, so it’s a new and very different Gucci now. Gone are the days of Tom Ford and his sleek sexy vibe.

Tom Ford for Gucci

Gone is the era of the 1980’s preppy god.

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It’s a new dawn and the sun is rising to reveal satin and tat in all its gaudy glory.

So here we go:

Gucci

Alexander McQueen

I really like the Spanish style embroideries used on the jackets here. It’s difficult to add embellishments to menswear and not have it get gaudy or too feminine (see above). Usually I would say it’s just for the rocker type but here with the provenance of the Spanish heritage it remains dignified. I’m sure this will appeal to the younger, more hip type but if you were a more mature fellow, I think you could pull off one of these beautifully tailored jackets for an elegant, yet relaxed affair. The key here is to dress it down. I also like the designed prints on the suits because they always stand out and look very special.

Alexander McQueen

Haider Ackermann

Here’s what I hear in my head while looking through his collections,  Haider Ackermann is the coolest. I hear it on a loop in a sing songy way. It’s automatic. Ackermann will never be confused for any other designer. What he does is so distinctive and pure. It’s inspired and fascinating. The use of color is brilliant in that it’s at once unexpected and then totally natural. Of course those pants would have to be teal blue! His man is always on the cutting edge without ever getting tired or overplayed. This is just an eclectic fellow with confidence who exhudes style.

haider-ackermann

Dries Van Noten

Mr. Ackermann and Mr. Noten are really the two designers who are leading the way for the next generation with their vision and their laser focus point of view. This is what true designers do. They create a world and let us glimpse it. They offer you wonderful options that allow us to just pay a price to buy a form of self expression. They are taking the hard work out of expressing yourself by showing you a wholly different perspective. Noten always seems to know just when to shift gears and does so from say – the fitted to the relaxed – with ease. The colors as always are just as important to the design as the cut and fabrication, and all work in total harmony. Noten, in true French fashion takes risks and always has a dynamic and unique perspective.

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Ann Demeulemeester

Yet another very cool French design house, Demeulemeester always has an edge that inspires admiration and yet still feels accessible. You don’t have to be a model or a fashion guy to wear these clothes…well the stripes might be a challenge for the regular Joe. There are some pieces here that would work for anyone and add that little something that says – hey, I know what I’m doing.

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Valentino

I always have a sort of “meh” response when I see a military inspired collection these days – especially if it takes the canvas and fatigues approach as opposed to the more exciting Napoleon era Galliano approach. But here Valentino has really borrowed with refinement and if anyone could elevate camouflage they can. They have designed these clothes to be investment pieces that you can wear like jeans; the solid zip up jacket and the olive overcoat  feel easy and rather timeless. A clean collection that has just enough to stand out.

valentino

Louis Vuitton

Vuitton by way of Vivian Westwood? They feature Sid Vicious’ famous lock necklace – which immediately played the scene from Sid and Nancy in my head “Oh cool!” says Sid as Nancy clasps the lock around his neck, “where’s the key?”

“What key?”

Sid bursts into laughter. I’ve seen that movie waaaaay too many times.

sid and nancy

I used to have this poster on the back of my bedroom door. Mom didn’t care for it.

 

 

Aside from that there are also the infamous Fur sweaters.

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Westwood and McLaren

Who is this new designer? As it turns out Kim Jones is indeed a collector of Westwood and McLaren’s and he has pulled some serious inspiration from them here – which is naturally my favorite influence of this show. There is  also some African influence which makes for an very unlikely juxtaposition. Punk and African that is, unless you were to reflect on the roots of Ska which is Jamaican but probably the closest association.  That’s just the music though and I don’t recall seeing any Rude Boys sporting Zebra Print. However despite all the confusion the Animal Print Creepers and  briefcase are perfectly awesome.

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Resort 2017

Not sure what to make of the Resort collections. It has always been a season that is up for interpretation and here it continues to be like California Architecture – a mix of all styles.  Choosing favorites becomes even harder  because I am choosing between drastically different types of collections.  Some are chic and breezy for a vacation while others are showing outerwear and brocade. I tend to lean toward the more warm weather wear for this season as it just feels like the more natural definition of RESORT. That being said here are my favorites.

Antonio Marras

What I love about this aside from the sense of nostalgia, is the way the patterns are mixed and sewn. The dresses have a certain old timey feel that appeals to my desire to play dress up.

antonio marras

ADEAM

As a big cardigan fan I can’t help but have a visceral response to cardigans looking cool and not conservative. Others often remark I look like a librarian or a teacher when sporting one of my many handy, lightweight layering pieces. So to see the cardigan shine here (not through embellishment or pattern) is pretty nifty. I also find the use of shape and proportion intriguing. The wide trousers, which are becoming more and more prevalent on runways are extreme yet still classic.  They choose a  pinstripe which is unusual for resort but it’s brilliant here where it acts as a more sophisticated seersucker. The touches of girlishness seen in the bows and flounces are paired with the more masculine stripe resulting in an easy, chic vibe.

adeam

Elizabeth and James

This is truly a Resort collection. Wherever these girls are going I want to go too. This is elegant, breezy, sophisticated and cool. I’m feeling Belize, Cannes, the Spanish Rivera? A glistening aqua pool overlooking a magnificent vista. Sign me up – and pack these clothes.

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Nina Ricci

Ricci strikes the perfect balance between modern cool girl and retro 1930’s cool girl.

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Markus Lupfer

This looks more like Markus Lupfer for Target. It’s a decidedly commercial outing but that’s okay with me. Particularly for the resort season where you are supposedly shopping to supplement your transitional wardrobe or for a tropical vacation. Ahh the good old days when flying was a glamorous and exciting endeavor,  not like being on a city bus. Anywaaaaaaay, these are all solid items that work for either requirement. The palm print is a long time favorite of mine and I am pleased to see it come back into fashion. Showing it in navy/black is a nice variation on the classic green/white combo.

markus-lupfer

Anna Sui

I guess I would consider my personal style somewhere between gothic and bohemian. With that in mind this collection offers some very wearable and practical items for either my pseudo goth vacation, or just a nifty new dress or cardigan to blend into that eclectic closet of mine. Love the nod to grunge in the dresses but not quite sure I could ever wear a choker again. Like a former hippie swearing off bellbottoms or a yuppie rejecting shoulder pads, sometimes you just can’t/won’t go back.

anna-sui

Di$count Universe Australia

So apparently I need to go to Australia and get a job working with these two chicks. They are having entirely too much fun down there and it is blasted all over these clothes. The cut on the pink blazer is perfection and the leather shirt/jacket whatever that is – covered in studs is so obvious I cant believe I haven’t seen it before. The boots are outrageous and the color combinations are dead on. Rock and roll is alive and well in the upside-down.

dicount-universe-australia

Gucci

Here is what resort looks like when you give absolutely no fucks about what season you are designing for. I continue my love hate relationship (one sided) with the latest incarnation of this iconic house. The embellishments are getting even more insane to the point where I almost get angry about the gall of this guy! How dare he pile it on with total abandon, doesn’t he know where he works? Its like a slap in the face to the history of the house. A once elegant and daresay preppy powerhouse is now known for its insane hipster/dork gaudiness. It irks me to see the association because it’s just too drastic, but I cannot look away. Worn all together makes me want to cover my ears it’s so loud but if you pull out items on their own they are just. so. cool. ARRRRGH! SO COOOOOOOL. Green leopard coat? Yes. Silk printed skirt? Yep. Sneaky snake and floral printed spring dress? Uh huh. Tartan, leopard, stripes, cats, tigers, roses? Yes! I give up! You win Mr. Alessandro Michele. As if I stood a chance…

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Fall 2016 Review

We really get to have the best time drooling over the fall collections. It is by far the biggest blowout of the year. The collections present complete wardrobes laced with epic backstories. Layers of sweaters and skirts, boots, jackets and coats and the gowns! Hooray for gowns;  impossibly extravagant gowns, clean sleek gowns, embellished, layered, draped and dramatic – this is their time.  This is fashions bright shining moment where designers bring us their earnest best. Day to evening, including outfits for every possible circumstance. The nail-biting, the ulcers and the sleepless nights all come down to that runway and it’s so exciting. There is so much to see this year, so much variation and so much great work that it was very difficult to edit it down to just these few.

Damir Doma

Deconstruction had its trendy heyday about a decade ago so when we see it nowadays, you know the designer is a true devotee. This is their aesthetic not just a gimmick. And here it really shows. The use of the technique is thoughtful and designed which keeps it looking elevated and not shabby. The layering is beautifully done and enhances the garments’ proportions. While the color palette of black and white, neutral and utilitarian is true to the genre. My favorites are the jacket and coats, especially the white which compliments the all black uniform underneath with a hip result. (The shoes and jewelry are cool too.)

damir-doma

Aganovich

Aganovich gets me again. It’s still in need of refinement – there is something that is keeping it looking like design school level – not quite elevated enough yet. But they are definitely on to something and I’m still waiting to see them evolve…

aganovich

Maticevski

The silhouettes shown in this collection are amazing. The volume is done with such precision that it doesn’t overwhelm the model even when that seems impossible. The proportions are perfect, the fit is impeccable, the result is ultra feminine and chic.

maticevski

Moschino

I love the subdued jewel tones and the theatric elements of this collection. Jeremy Scott is known for his unapologetic designs which are usually more satirical and pop culture centric. The pop culture collections don’t interest me much but this one gets me solely on its charred dresses. (Although the day of the dead tails are cool on their own) The Dresses themselves are pretty but then he stets them on fire and they are suddenly tragic and punk all at the same time. No doubt this is a very fun show to attend and though the theatrics and sparkle got me, but the rest of the collection was just meh.

moschino

Paule Ka

If you are in your 20’s and in search of the perfect cocktail dress than Paule ka has got you covered. Well crafted and cut just right to evoke a playful simple charm.

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Les Copians

Who wants to be snuggly, adorable and chic as that girl walking on the bridge over the left bank in Paris on a drizzly fall afternoon? I do!

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Alberta Ferretti

The dusty colors and soft fabrics are lovely. The first dress is delightfully unusual in the combination of its metallic base and matte rusty-red detail. There is a sense of antique to the whole group that evokes nostalgia for feminine softness. It’s romantic and poetic and I find that irresistible. I love when the clothes transport you to another time and place.

alberta ferretti

Erdem

So gloves have been making a comeback. Talk about nostalgia. They often look baggy and sloppy to me, and God forbid they be spandex ((chills)). I love these three looks though, despite the gloves. This is a confident woman and she means business. Erdem always has florals and this print is one of the coolest they have done. The metallic and the green against the matte black background is dangerously close to looking upholstery yet reads as very sophisticated here, especially in the Asian style dress. The coat is borderline muppet but is saved by the graphic pattern of the fur. The shoes are fantastic too!erdem

Antonio Marras

There is something very unique about this designer. Nothing he does looks derivative – at least of nothing I’ve ever seen. He has such an original point of view that I can’t help but be intrigued. Where does he get his ideas? How does he come to his design resolutions? The choices are not obvious. They are in fact distinctive in their obliqueness. Whoa, I am overdosing on the vocabulary words. Just goes to show what an inspiration a unique perspective can be.

antonio marras

Gucci

It’s still an embellishment bonanza over at Gucci and I can’t say I don’t like it. There are SO MANY IDEAS here, it’s insane. It’s as if the designer has just been holding all of these colors and patterns and images in his head until he finally just exploded all over the workroom. There is chinoiserie, there is disco, there is every conceivable era from the 1900’s all the way through to 2015. What can be said? There are pieces I love here and there and little jems hidden amongst the Where’s Waldoesque chaos. I cannot imagine wearing it all together but mixed into a wardrobe, paired with some basics. For example a black camisole with those sequins pants would still stand out without going over the top. Or the Jacquard coat with good old jeans.  And it may sound crazy but that tiger bag could be an everyday item. At least it would be if I got my hands on it.

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Roberto Cavalli

I love this interpretation of bohemian. It feels very authentic and not like costume for once. It’s decadent and full of rich fabrics, sensual textures and jewel tones. The teal blue with the deep green is such a stunning and rich combination. And who can forget the stunning yellow Beyoncé gown which is now iconic?

One of the best things about this collection is the styling. It is an excellent guide for how to dress something down. Yes, you can dress down sequins and you can dress down gowns. It can be one of the coolest cool girl secrets you’ll ever learn. The second look featuring the belted beaded gown paired with boots and a scarf is the perfect example. That dress on its own could go to the Oscars, but how many people are going to the Oscars… Styled this way, dressed down it can go out to cocktails or even an afternoon of shopping and a late lunch. Brilliant!

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Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Somehow Vivienne Westwood is always doing classic Vivienne Westwood. She has such a singular point of view which is never obstructed by trends or outside influence. It’s always just coming out of her head. It is so cool in there. I love that she shows slouchy yet tailored and masterly draped clothes time and time again. While not everything she designs is easily wearable, these four looks sure are.

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John Galliano

Ooooh there is a little glimpse of the Galliano dandy from the days of Dior. The cheeky Louis XIV rapscallion. Obviously not with the decadence of Dior Couture. This is more of a wearable – I’m guessing from the shoes – street style dandy perhaps? But those dresses do have the same feel as the stunning concoctions he showed on those ladies of the court in the 1990’s.

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Central Saint Martins

So these are student designs from the St Martins college, I don’t know who the designer is. That is a shame because these dresses are lovely and do not look like student work at all. The draping and cutting is perfect and in these shapes that it not easy to do. It takes a deft hand. Hope to see more from this designer – whoever they are!central saint martins

 

Rochas

I think my favorite thing about this collection is the color story. I’m dying to see burnt orange, teal blue and emerald green, navy and mustard yellow.  Here is more of a muted version of those colors, but I’ll take it. So satisfying! I also love the first three dresses because they require little thought, no special underwear or accessories. You could just throw it on and go.

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Nina Ricci

I wasn’t sure I needed to include these dresses because they aren’t really anything special, yet here they are, included. Is it that they are kind of simple? We have definitely seen them before. Perhaps it’s that they are wearable party clothes. Most anyone could wear these shapes and these styles. They aren’t exclusive to a thin girl, a busty girl, a cool girl or a conservative. From left to right they are clean, playful, a bit flashy and a bit sexy. Wouldn’t one of these work for that night out you have coming up? I think so, and you would look really good. Easy! That’s why they are included.

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Rodarte

The first time I saw this collection I thought, “My dream prom come true. A stunning, elevated, gothic prom complete with fishnets and live orchids.”

When I was editing the post I looked at this same collection and thought “Were they going for 1930’s French hooker?”

What a difference a few months makes! In either case I still really like these looks, they are so overdone in the best possible way. All the elements have been worked out and come together in the looks. Even with so much piled on there isn’t anything completing for attention. You get to see it all because it’s cohesive.

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Haider Ackermann

This collection looks as if it is starting to borrow a bit from the menswear line – which  I love because as much as I like the menswear collection for men, I love it more for me! So this works out very nicely, very nicely indeed. Plus the added bonus of the very cool striped dresses mixed in amongst the infamously cool Ackermann cropped jackets. The colors as always are a perfect palette of brushed metallics, earthy base tones (in this case green) and a shock of electric color (here it’s pink). Do you want to look edgy and still be the picture of sophistication and impeccable taste? Do you want to look cool without looking trendy? I sure as hell do. My adoration for Ackermann is not secret and he does it true to form every single time.

haider ackermann 10-haider-ackermann

Alexander McQueen

I just recently watched the Documentary The First Monday in May ( I highly recommend it btw) and there is a section of the film devoted to The Met’s Alexander McQueen exhibit. I marveled at the images. I realized that I had adjusted to Burton’s vision of McQueen and had almost forgotten his genus. He was a master at showing beauty and nature in all its rough and raw glory. He reveled in Natures brutality and was fascinated by her adaptiveness and fierceness.  Burton is less dramatic and less in touch with that sense of awe and wonder for the world and now I feel almost disappointed. But is that fair? How do you follow a man who left no traceable path. He was truly inspired in the most pure form.

This collection by Burton for McQueen shows that she does honor his roots as best she or anyone most likely could. There are elements of romance, punk and natures wonderful display here and they are altogether cool and modern and spectacular. But I cant help but wonder how Alexander would have done it.

alexander mcqueen 11-alexander-mcqueen

Dries Van Noten

So many designers this season and the previous few actually, have been showing pajama sets and leopard prints. So it’s nothing unusual or particularly exciting to see them here. What makes this collection stand out from all the rest is class. The word “classy” has always stuck in my craw a bit because only classless folk use the term “classy”. It’s really more of a slang term so it seems to negate the credibility of the compliment simply due to the perspective of the user. Here though it feels like a perfect fit because so many of the pajama looks and leopard prints being shown by other designers are a trendy version: a rock and roll version, a club version or a quirky hipster version.  These clothes on the other hand, look elegant and expensive. They are high fashion, not trendy and marketable. No cheap commodities here – oh no. These are the clothes one aspires to wear. To be that park avenue woman who represents strength, intelligence and CLASS.

dries van noten dries-van-noten

Valentino

My first thought in seeing this collection is “Oh my god finally some new silhouettes from Valentino!” Without question Valentino has positioned itself as the bellwether for high fashion. Most every designer has elements (let’s be kind and say) inspired by what has been shown on the empirically impressive runway at Valentino. We can trace the illusion dress, the long fitted gown, the narrow shoulder and the turtleneck seen of late all back to this house. Not to mention the entire embellishment trend. They have been showing variation on these established powerhouse designs for at least 6 seasons now so it’s refreshing to see some new offerings that go in an entirely different direction. I love these fuller flyaway skirts and the lightness they bring. In fact lightness seems to be the theme of this collection which features feathers and clouds as motifs. The illusion dress has run it’s course so I’m excited to see where they go from here.

valentino

 

 

 

 

 

 


Pre Fall 2016

It’s going to be so sad around here when the embellishment trend is over. It’s getting so gloriously out of hand that its doom is assured. Fashion cannot, will not tolerate anything to go too far for too long. Soon it we be a big swing toward *minimalism and modernity, wha wha wha.

Enjoying this as much as I do it’s fun to see what I think is an influence coming from the reemergence of Cuba into the consciousness. There are so many beautiful bold colors and patterns shown by the likes of Valentino and Andrew Gn. Then there is the ongoing extravaganza happening over at Gucci. It’s so fun to see all these designers just pile it on. This is also apparently the time to stock up on those grunge era floral dresses as they are in just about every other collection. I am enjoying it while it lasts!

*(Although as I go though the images I am realizing that I included a few that could be described as just that – minimal and modern, and they look great. I guess what I mean to say is the trend that seems to have stolen the spotlight is embellishments while other houses will always continue to follow their own point of view. As they should.)

Here are my favorites from Pre Fall 2016…

 Jil Sander

This is more of the slouch look that I really have been enjoying from the past year. This is also minimalist and modern – but that is the Jil Sander aesthetic so they would likely rather shutter their doors than stitch on a single sequins. I really like this though, the wide trouser is easy and cool and the coat is like a modern New Yorkers idea of a Navaho blanket coat. It’s cool girl – but it’s also easily cool woman. Now that is refreshing.

 Jil Sander

Adam Lippes

Moving on here we see a touch of the inevitable leopard jacket that almost everyone seems to be showing these days. Hey – a perennial favorite – no complaints here. I like this group because it’s full of essential separates and solid staples. It feels very collegiate sophisticate. A good solid base for a young woman just building a wardrobe.

Adam Lippes

 Michael Kors

Always super wearable and distinctly American in the best way. Kors has this unique ability to channel the best styles from eras of American fashion and funnel them into modern looks. I love a printed trouser because I love clothes that do the work for you. With a good print you can easily print match or just go with a basic solid on top and still look stylish. The dress is versatile which is the mainstay of sportswear, add a little jacket or cardigan and you can wear the hell out of it. The coat is a great cut, and would be just as cool for evening as dressed down with jeans. Good old American sportswear I tell ya.

 Michael Kors

 No. 21

I have been waiting for the floral dress to come back for so long. It really feels like we haven’t seen this since the 1990’s grunge era. I had at least 6 and loved to wear them more than any other look since then. I wish I still had them but sadly I actually wore through my favorite ones and must have sold the others. In any case about 10 years ago I was looking everywhere for a simple long dress that I could layer and wear with boots or sandals and there weren’t any. ANYWHERE. So hooray for the return of the printed floral dress. I love the classic colors here, and the pleating feels cool and swingy. The babydoll dress and coat are respectively charming and studenty. (I like to add the letter “y” to words.) The coat has that look like a fashion student would love it (in the best way) because it is actually pretty cool. The last look is a nice marriage of both and I dig it.

 No. 21

 Rochas

More of that grunge influence in the styling and the “house dress” element. Love the colors and the florals being mixed with plaids and leopard. These combos are an all time favorite ever since I saw my first Ralph Lauren campaign. The slouchy coats are hip and easy, and that thigh slit is genus. The gold dress is just the right amount of frumpy, kind of like,”It’s so ugly it’s cool” right? The leopard coat is a nice one for sure. I particularly like the print itself as the color is less golden and more beige. The last dress has got a little break at the floor like a men’s trouser and that’s a pretty nifty detail.

 Rochas

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

I included this one more for the ideas. The first dress is really feminine and pretty just begging to be worn with a masculine element like boots or a mens jacket/moto jacket. Just not a fan of the print. Same with the skirt next to it, I love the shape, the lightweight fabric and pairing it with the plaid shirt, just don’t like the print. The final look features a skirt that is probably one of the best skirts I have ever seen. I love the extra long length, the pleats down the front, the tie at the side, it is the epitome of cool girl. The possiblilites of looks is endless: a simple white beater and boots with a leather jacket or layer on a slouchy ivory sweater or tuck in a loose silk blouse sloppily and pair it with a strappy flat sandal. I just want it.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Erdem

Now these prints I love.

The first dress is just as simply pretty as it is ripe to be paired with a masculine element. It is so ready to be worn as a grunge dress just add boots and a leather jacket or oversized cardigan. The next looks are all about the print. Love dark colors contrasting against pastels.

Erdem

Just Cavalli

The First dress is a great throw it on to cover all sins dress – everyone needs one of those. The rest is just straight up grunge for the modern gal. The red leather insert on that jacket is clean and makes it special. The floral dress is just right, not too fussy or frilly, just enough length and transformable through accessories. Some good staples here.

Just Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli

Overall very costumey when styled all together like this. It’s as if you fell into an Aerosmith/Stevie Knicks acid laced smoothie. There are certainly some pieces you could cherry pick out of here that are amazing.  The jackets alone are outstanding and have so much potential of being your new favorite thing. The rest is just for fun.

Roberto Cavalli Roberto Cavalli

Gucci

Did someone say fuuuuun??? Yeah I know I hate that term unless you are talking to toddlers but really what else can I say? This is fucking fun. Here is a continuation of the theme from the last collection with the snakes and the trompe l’oeil… It’s iconic and great for the new designer to make his mark but I hope he moves on soon before it all starts to look like one long collection. That being said, whenever a designer goes full imaginarium there is always some amazing work to snatch up if you can. I am reminded of the original Moschino and his iconic surreal collections. These are investment pieces. And the gold pleated skirt is just really awesome and I really want it.

Roberto Cavalli

 Andrew Gn

Here is that Cuban look I was mentioning earlier. The colors, the styling and the vintage feel all take me to Cuba. I really love the sweet feminine designs with the bold colors. There is an energy to these clothes that is very unique. I especially love the lace inset blouses, they are so delicate and bold at the same time. Its exciting, truly.

 Andrew Gn

Valentino

Yet another stunning collection from Valentino. Full of energy and fantasy. The first group of looks have an Asian ethereal feel that is so calming yet have the energy of motion. Like a meditation by the water. I love the painterly colors – you don’t often see such colors, (for example in the skirt) in textiles they are more often seen used by artists. Subtle and powerful. The dresses are so lovely that it doesn’t bother me that they are the same silhouette and the same see through dress that has been done to death over the last few seasons. If you were going to wear one – wear one of these. The second group must be more of the Asian theme because of the dragon, but I just saw Cuba. The vibrant colors and graphic use of stars and explosive imagery. It is more in your face power as opposed to the earlier looks’ more subtle strength. I love these all, just inspiring!

Valentino Valentino


Spring 2016

So many questions…

You’d think that designers who have longevity – wait, not all designers that have longevity – but some of them at least, would be pleased to see the revival of a look that they were responsible for. Like Armani – who you’d think could blow the doors off of the 1980’s revival seeing as he is the designer who led the way in the 1980’s. He was the top designer at that time who brought us the power suit. Is Armani thinking, “I know this – I can do this in my sleep, lets show these kids how its done!”? Then there is Marc Jacobs who was famously ousted from Perry Ellis immediately after showing his “grunge” collection (ironically his most influential)  which IS ALL OVER THE RUNWAYS now. From the super trendy St Laurent to the Italian powerhouse Roberto Cavalli. Is Jacobs thinking that this epic revival is his for the taking? Should he give derivative Slamine a run for his money? Or are they over it? As designers it is their job to move forward so do they just shrug and say its nice to see that I’ve made a mark on the industry? One that can be felt all over again, all these years later?  Which then implies it will continue to resonate in the decades to come as it will surely play out again and again in subsequent revivals.

It seems to me that the overall feel of  Spring 2016 (and then again in the just completed Fall 2016 collections) is Revival. And no era has been spared. The top designers are going from the 60’s all the way to the 00’s. Sure, someone is always doing an homage but when the majority of the top designers are looking back to go forward….that’s a big shift. Perhaps they have fatigued on all the “half and half” looks and the origami draping. Do they need a break from the desperately overdone, overworked and tortured looks meant to break new ground?  Now they just want to relax and make something they love inspired by a favorite bygone era? I think that having a break from trying to be the designer of the future will allow them to relax and clear their minds. When you stop trying so hard that is usually where inspiration is found.  My prediction for next year is that these same designers – now revitalized – are going to be pushing forward with fury. The collections for 2017 are going to be modern and clean and the silhouettes will be shapeless, straight and simple. None of the layering of pattern and costume frivolities we see now.

In a nutshell for Spring 2016 we see the beginnings of a huge trend of Fur, Leopard and Patent Leather with a gothic undertone all which carry into the Fall. Here are our favorites.

Mui Mui

So happy to see the bold prints and mixing of textures in this collection which first caught my eye in the 1990’s Prada collections. The purple print is my favorite because it  looks like it would feel joyful to wear. I also love the trench coat layered over the dress and the wide lapel double breasted coats (also a 90’s staple). They have a nice nipped in waist and are the perfect length both at the sleeve and the hem for ease of wear and practicality. This is the first hint at the gothic makeup trend there will be much more of to come.

 Miu MiuA.F. Vandevorst

I love a cool girl. The fitted striped pants are understated which is not easy to achieve in a striped pant. The result is instant effortless cool points, the belt is soooooooo coooool like a punk rock cummerbund then paired with the elevated blazer is a nice touch of class. The dress has that papery drape that would usually annoy me but I find myself thinking it looks really clean and sharp here – perhaps its all attitude? Hmmm. The last – those killer embellished  pants layered under the black embellished dress (?) is great because you can feel the weight of it, the way the metal embellishments effect the hang and that when she walks she can’t help but feel powerful, like an armor. It’s all so cool.

A.F. Vandevorst

Haider Ackermann

Ackermann is my current favorite designer. He must be, because he has done deconstructed neon pants and I like it. The fact that he would put neon yellow with ice blue velvet is enough to know that this guy knows what the fuck he is doing. The obvious quality of the work and the materials support the design so that he can accomplish deconstruction without losing any luxury. The pastels play off the bright colors so naturally that I wonder why it never occurred to me before. I love that – when a design is so successful that I have an ah-ha moment.  The signature cropped jacket is always spot on and the leather is supple and chic. Ackermann continues to inspire.

aa Haider Ackermann

Yang Li

Big flowy dresses are always on my list. Whenever the weather gets warm and breezy I have an innate desire for long fluid fabrics that will billow when I walk. It just feels good. These speak to that desire. The white swingy jacket, the black maxi dress, the florals with the full skirts and that jacket with the train are all easy to wear and make you want to parade down the sidewalk in the sunshine. The gothic color palette is unexpected with floral so naturally I love that too.

aaa Yang Li

Etro

Here is  more of that same feeling but with a vintage and exotic vibe. These are more of a lounge around drinking tea in the solarium just off the manicured gardens while discussing the trivialities of politics. Who’s in??? Tra la la!

aaaa etro

Anna Sui

Anna Sui always has a strong retro vibe to her collections, which is probably why she is one of my favorites. Especially when she taps into the 20’s 30’s or 40’s. This time it was a late 1930’s nod full of her signature prints and dusty tone color palate. I especially love the charmingly old Hollywood retro swimming costumes in the colorful prints. And the floral print floaty dresses are always welcome. Fair Warning: Generally, whenever florals are really popular there is always like a 10 year backlash where they are impossible to find so here our chance to stock up.

 Anna Sui

Had to include the final sequin look because it is a remake of an iconic costume worn by Barbara Stanwyck in the very funny 1941’s farce, Ball of Fire

Annex - Stanwyck, Barbara (Ball of Fire)_04

Temperly London

More resort-y springtime faire on the runways at Temperly London. I used to say that I thought this was the perfect designer for Kate Middleton, though now they seem to have evolved into more of a relaxed silhouette. More and more they are heading toward looser fits. I love the soft pink and black combo that they always seem to go back to – it’s charming in its innocent femininity without being cloyingly sweet. Always a sucker for a palm print, I like it here in conjunction with the English rose motif which keeps the palm from getting too trendy. The peasant dress out first is a nice introduction to the story of the collection and charming on its own. The blazer is not my favorite,  I’d prefer a lightweight knitted ivory pullover in its place with a low slung belt. A robe is the new covetable item especially when the sleeve and hem are long, as they are here. The Sheer beach dress has perfect pattern placement and the sequins jumper with the addition of the rosary is so cool.  Relaxed chic for Spring.

Temperly London

Alexander McQueen

Right off I have got to announce how much I love the redcoats juxtaposed to the soft rose print florals. All the details are beautiful from the touches of fringe to the tiny covered buttons and the eyelash festooned metallic lace. Burton has reigned in the ruffles and peek a boos from the last few collections and it looks like she has really gotten to the meat of it here. This is more restrained and better edited which makes it so much more balanced and accessible. The jewelry is STUNNING and so badass – I love the heavy chain and the boldness. It’s at once pretty, cool, soft and strong.

 Alexander McQueen

 Antonio Marras

This group is decidedly European. There is that thing about this designer that is akin to when you see a person from Germany (or some western European country) at a coffee shop and you can tell they are not an American. There is just something inherently different about them. These clothes have that indescribable thing and it’s really intriguing. The colors are unusual together, warm grey with gold, pink, ivory and crimson red. I love all the embellishments on the dresses and the makeup and styling are kind of like what you may see in an old oil portrait painting framed in some heavily carved gold frame. This whole group  has mystique. I love that.

 Antonio Marras

Dolce & Gabanna

Dolce and Gabanna time! Bring on the colors, the embellishments, the lace, the corsets and the sexy. They always have some roses, some religion and some sequins so I always love something. This time it’s the flowers that were my favorites, along with the pajama theme that most designers are showing.  There are plenty of more is more moments here and I just chose some of the ones that caught my eye especially though I assure you there were tons to choose from.

Dolce & Gabanna 1 Dolce & Gabanna 2 Dolce & Gabanna

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

These are some romantic, billowy, spring and summer dresses. I love how the fabrics are light enough to layer but have enough weight to behave as a dress not just a nightgown. Obviously some clever layering would be necessary in the case of sheer dresses, but this brings the opportunity for brightly colored slips or light colored blouses – loosely knit cardigans…there is fun to be had. Just what I want on a hot sunny day with a big hat and cool drink.

 Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

 Valentino

Though the theme is not my favorite there is always stunning work done at the house of Valentino these days. I could not reasonably do a review without acknowledging the masterful craftsmanship and immense creativity of this team.

 Valentino

Gucci

Were do I begin?? There is so much happening in this collection and as a more is more subscriber, it’s hard to deny that my eyes are dancing. The colors are like a bowl of shiny hard shelled candies. The fabrics like they came from Diana Vreeland’s apartment, the details are cheeky and irresistibly playful. The trompe l’oeil ruffles are genius. I always applaud when a designer gives you a collection that you can own a piece of and be satisfied. Here you could have that bag, that shake charm shoe or just a ring and feel like you have a bit of the fantasy. This is purely due to the fact that the theme is so cultivated and merchandised for point of sale. I’m sure the investors are slapping each other on the back right now seeing dollar signs,  this collection is so easy to shop.

Gucci Gucci

Shoes!

So speaking of things we can buy, shoes! Shoes!! Shoes!!! We had to include these few from the runways.

J Crew

J Crew Gingham and Madras 1950’s inspired sandals! YES!

Miu Miu 1

Mui Mui Snakeskin T-Straps and blood red patent leather heels. Love the ankle ties too.

Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta does Vamp. Oh Yeaaaaaaaah

Marc Jacobs

I have discussed how excited I was to see what Jacobs would do once he had his own house to play in again. Having thrown off the shackles of Vuitton and it’s expectations, what delicious creations he would be able to unleash. Well this collection was just what I hoped for. The overall theme of the circus, the burlesque, the fantasy, he went there all the way and clearly had a blast. It’s so enjoyable as the viewer when you can see the fun that was had while they were designing. How each idea led to the next – the energy is kinetic and inspiring to behold. I love the colors, the fuschia and gold and the blood red and silver. The navy and burgundy and white! The details are abundant and make each piece beg the viewer to get a closer look. This is the best, most fun part of fashion – this is what sells the tickets to take the ride.

Marc Jacobs hh Marc Jacobs

Lanvin

The final collection by Alber Elbaz and it’s as if he decided to show us how it was all done. The revealing of the underwork is nothing but genius. There is so much meticulous crafted beauty shown here it is sad to think that this is the end. Lanvin has personified French fashion and this collection simply shows us why. Master craftsmanship, fierce attention to cut and form, and the highest of taste levels. Glamorous and elegant meet when stitched with lace and sequins, satin and wool. Breathtaking.

Lanvin

 Dries Van Noten

How fitting to end this review with French Designers. The Paris shows are arguably the most innovative. They innovate while maintaining a level of taste which is not as easy to accomplish as it may look. Noten has been at the top of the industry along with Valentino, Ackermann, McQueen and a handful of others when it comes to designing innovative and fresh collections that are legitimately wearable. Not to mention dramatic, yet poised and even downright practical at times. This collection is full of color and texture and pattern at every turn yet somehow it doesn’t look jumbled. Noten is an excellent stylist as well as designer which is why the collections always look so accessible. I love the evolution of the Chinoiserie influence in the prints. It is still there, on his mind from the last season but it’s morphing into the next idea and that is the best kid of tease in fashion. What will he do next???

Indeed.

z Dries Van Noten
 Dries Van Noten
zDries Van Noten 1


Resort 2016

Resort is what is on the floor right now. Hard to resolve for those trapped indoors by the east coast snowstorm – a dream of sandy beaches and glistening sun dappled pools… For most, these clothes are something they are going to be saving for the Spring or for when the airports reopen! I realize of course that Resort is a small showing. A tease of what’s to come. Something to tide us over in that otherwise dull shopping season that hits after Christmas and before the first glint of Springtime. It can be just for fun or it can be a chance to fill in some gaps in your wardrobe left by a good Spring cleaning. Whatever the case, these are our favorites from the 2016 collections.

Kaufmanfranco

Clean. This is really kinda a great approach to Resort because it is seasonless. This could be worn in Spring as is, Summer as is, Fall with a cropped jacket, Winter with a coat. Great for travel as it could easily dress up with heels and makeup or down with sandals and sunglasses. All around versatility, really can’t ask for more than that.

A Kaufmanfranco

Chloe

Love the length. Love the detail at the neck. Love the styling.

Chloé Resort

Burberry

Doing what they do best; the Raincoat. These were my favorites of the collection. I always say, do not undervalue the coat as it is often the only part of your outfit others will see.

The red is a perfect shade of crimson. The ivory lace is so charming. The graphic is vibrant and dramatic. Something for everyone here.

Burberry Prada

So this is one of those collections that is more of a preview for what will be coming up. I love mixed prints and these are really creative and artistically styled. On their own they aren’t that intriguing – but the styling makes for a really fascinating and artsy gal.  I think this girl is someone who is confident and creative. She also might be a giant pain in the ass, but perhaps that’s just the models’ expressions. In any case, I do think the clothes look fun to wear.

 Prada

 Lanvin

There is nothing particularity special here. I just love a floral floaty dress worn unexpectedly.

 Lanvin

Rebecca Taylor

I chose this seemingly innocuous floral dress for the detail at the shoulder and the placement of the all the elements. All are hitting in a very flattering way. I also think the slits in the skirt coupled with the abundance of fabric are a very nice way to create movement. It makes it seem very ethereal.  Bonus – It is lined! Hooray for reality.

Rebecca Taylor

Elie Saab

I like the scarves with these as they add some drama. The use of a palm frond in the prints is great too. For some reason I have always had an affinity for the palm print you see on beachy rattan chair cushions, it’s so cheezy yet I love it. I also like the use of black which makes them a little tougher, more rocker chic. Pretty darn cool for florals.

Elie Saab

Carolina Herrera

This! This dress is instant classic. The shape of the skirt is perfect with just enough fullness to make it dramatic without being a ball gown pouf. The color is sophisticated which is very Herrera, and the oversized print is almost cool like Andy Warhol. It’s more than just pretty. But it is definitely pretty too.

Carolina Herrera

 Gucci

So I’m still not sold on the gimmicks being used by the new designer Alessandro Michele. They are distracting and unnecessary and frankly don’t vibe with the chic Gucci aesthetic. Yet another of these houses who are desperate to get the young customer into the stores at any cost, even the dignity of their label. If this wasn’t under the Gucci label I would like it much more. That being said I really do like the colors, the nod to chinoiserie (even though it seems kinda done already) and I even like the corsages of fabric flowers which are charming in their tattiness. I could live without the ruffles and tiers which seem like bad 1970’s prom details. And as I said before the styling is a distracting and unnecessary mess.

 Gucci

Givenchy

I don’t like the Easter colors. At all. no. What I love are the rosaries and the netted lace and the tassels and the chains, oh my!

The pinstripes on that suit are chains. That is such a cool idea (she says like a jealous fashion student) and I can’t imagine how long it took to tack those down. I’ll bet it sparkles and weighs a ton. Niiiiiiiice.

Givenchy

Valentino

This selection shown below from the collection is almost a big as most designers entire Resort offering. Leave it to Valentino to show a diabolical 82 looks. HOW do they deliver?

What can I say really? Time and again they are the bellwether for most other designers. Because of Valentino, runways are littered with long, narrow, sheer, beaded dresses in floral or ethnic designs. There are countless nipped in, lean, embroidered and embellished jackets and coats. Their influence is undeniable. Here it is so apparent why. They make impeccably cut garments that are detailed beautifully and artfully over and over again. When they do simple – it is flawless, when they go big – it is show stopping. My favorites of these favorites are the pajama romper ( and I hate rompers) the gilded coat at the end and the blue dress with the jewel toned and pale flowers.

Breathtaking and Covetable.

Valentino Valentino


Men Spring 2016

Has 2015 been this looooooong of a year?? These collections seem like they are from ages ago. I’m finally getting a chance to sit down and work on the review and most of the images don’t even resonate anymore. I’m really surprised by that. Usually I don’t flip a switch that quickly, maybe it’s just because this year has indeed been a long one with some major changes. Experiences can shift your point of view, proof is right here. But I’m going to stick to my guns on this and show the majority of the looks I had picked way back in September.

Gucci

So I had been really excited about Chinoiserie this time last year. I even had a chinoiserie themed Christmas tree.  I painstakingly hand made at least 75 paper cranes that were glittered and tucked into the branches of the tree, the garlands, the wreaths and all. It was my obsession. To see some of the Fall 2015 and forward collections featuring that same idea was really satisfying. Even 3 months ago I was still thrilled to see these exquisite bird and branch patterned fabrics and embellishments.

Gucci
Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Dolce & Gabanna

This is more of the Italian version but in the same vain. I love the Pajama influence in the suit, it goes with my whole slouch theory from last season.

Dolce & Gabanna

Marc Jacobs

Speaking of last season, here is that same drip of a model from Jacobs Fall outing. What’s the deal Jacobs?

These pants are what it’s all about – these are very similar to the drop dead killer pants that started my obsession with Haider Ackermann (see below).

Marc Jacobs

Third pair…Still love this.

Haider Ackermann Spring 2015

Haider Ackermann Spring 2015

Haider Ackermann

Speak of the devil. In this new season Ackermann evolves the Asain influence. The center look most notably as well as other moments through the collection. This one was my favorite though, it is very wearable despite the potentially costume-y nod to traditional robes. Leave it to Ackermann to push forward with the idea successfully all the while making the designing seem effortless. The other two looks reference a 1980’s hipster which could go so very wrong yet it doesn’t. It looks cool enough to make me question why I would ever turn my back on a drop shoulder coat.

Haider Ackermann

Ermenegildo Zegna

More oversized, softened styles here and I’m really surprised that I love the colors. Normally all these pastels would be a huge turn off.  The coats themselves feel very 1960’s business man but the colors are so humble that you get this charming kind of sheepish he’s a gentleman but he’s earnest? I need a thesaurus and a poet to help me express myself here. I just find it charming in a rosy cheek kind of way. I try – I do.

Ermenegildo Zegna

Lanvin

In keeping with the theme, here are some more exaggerated shapes – note I don’t say “baggy” which would be a direct reference to the 1980’s. (Despite the model in gray bearing a striking resemblance to Al Pacino in Scarface) These are carefully tailored clothes, simply cut wider and fuller but the lines are still strong. Nothing sloppy here which makes all the difference. This red coat is outstanding I would share it (maybe) and wear it!

Lanvin

John Varvatos

Consistent. Varvatos delivers for his customer there is no doubt. This man will always have a sharp new suit every season that will be clean, fitted, and cool. If he wants to get crazy there is a version of the oversized coat thrown in there too. It’s so nice to have a designer at this level – in this rock and roll world who just gives you what you want.

John Varvatos

Roberto Cavalli

This collection actually looks more like his womenswear than what he usually delivers for the guys. I was a little surprised that the silhouette was so lean when he usually goes more broad – more beefy if you will. I know there is a new designer for the women’s, I don’t know if the men’s has been taken over as well but it does feel different. The women’s latest collection was horrible and felt like a very different house. In fact it’s the similarity to the original womenswear that leads me to believe that this was still by Cavalli’s hand. In any case I do like the clothes but more for me! Hah!

Roberto Cavalli

Thom Browne

Thank God for Thom Browne! Circling back to the chinoiserie influence by way of Edwardian gothic! I think this is incredible. By far the most stunning collection of the season. These are art. This is art.

Thom Browne


Spring 2015

The collections for Spring 2015 didn’t really speak to me. I was looking for some 90’s era, grunge floral dresses mixed with bohemian layered lightweight separates. I hoped to see chinoiserie inspired prints and loads of color. Once again there were showings of entire white collections, entire black collections, beige, neutral etc. Though not was I was looking forward to – there were some great looks among those pallid palettes that I had to include. Not many designers were tapped into my frequency this season but thankfully there were a few.

Bottega Veneta

Being a cardigan kind of gal from way back it’s hard to pass these up. Effortless is always chic and it’s pretty clear why when you check out the styling here.

1 Bottega Veneta

Haider Ackermann

Now definitely a favorite designer. The styling is so important here yet it’s only as successful as the drape and proportion. The clothes are all cut to the exact right length to layer agreeably. The result is dialed in perfectly. This shade of pink was a color pick from Spring 2013 – still a favorite.

 1 Haider Ackermann

Etro

So here are some prints and some boho. More southwest than what I like for sure but Etro always does such an impressive job of layering prints. There are pieces in here, the white jacket, the blue button front dress the floaty skirt and the top of the white dress…These are all pieces you could work into a wardrobe and they look like things that would feel great to wear on a warm spring day. They evoke a feeling of Springtime. That’s probably what I like the most here.

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Anna Sui

This is more what I was hoping for. The Asian inspired prints, the floaty fabrics and girly yet rock and roll attitude. (The boots are stellar.)

3 Anna Sui !

St. Laurent

I’m realizing as I’m clicking through the St Laurent Collection that I’m having a hard time with the head to toe looks – and a better response to the detail images. I suppose because head to toe they look like costumes from some low budget 70’s film starring Debbie Harry and Marc Bolan. It’s so damned derivate – it’s almost 70’s punk plagiarism. In fact I think that’s exactly what it is. A totally intact time capsule – a time machine for the hipster fashionistas of the now. They love this shit. Despite my condemnation I admit once again that he’s got me with some of this. I cannot turn my back on rock and roll so yes, I’d take a piece or two (or five)  here and there. It is straight up fashion victims who will wear this as shown – God help all those “it” girls to have some perspective.

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Temperly London

I love the 1920 / 1930’s nod to nightgowns here. The colors, the fabrics, the rhinestones. It’s Hollywood glamour. I’d wear the dress with a cropped sharp blazer for evening or a shrunken leather jacket for day. The short robe over a beater and jeans, the sheer robe over a graphic slip dress or a camisole and cigarette pants. So much fun could be had with these pieces. I love them.

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Ermanno Scervino

These work for different reasons. The shorts are cool because they look like 1930’s tap shorts – a little cheeky (no pun intended) and a little sparkly. The dress looks ethereal while still looking modern ,(two typically opposing distinctions) and the frosted sleeves of that beautifully draped jacket are just serious magpie bait. That is all.

5 Ermanno Scervino

Tory Birch

I love that this is linen, that it is simple and most of all that it has a big fucking sparkly feather across the front. Totally impractical but I like it anyway.

5 Tory birch

Alberta Ferretti

More nightgown inspired dresses. I will always include these despite how many times I see them because they will always represent the classic romanticism that we need from time to time. It cannot all be modern – it just can’t.

6 Alberta Ferretti

Mary Katrantzou

This was a really cool collection inspired very literally by the ocean. I love the intricate and beautifully crafted details. The colors are so soft and feminine yet hit with that contrast of black…stunning. The pleats and the lace, and sheers over the prints – love love love.

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Diane Von Furstenburg

This. The chinoiserie I was hoping for. This coat is flawless. The fit through the shoulder is so soft and clean, the collar is just right, the length, the nipped in waist. Perfect. Love!

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 Undercover

Hieronymus Bosch.  I would be surprised if every art student hadn’t had a love affair with the works of Bosch when they first discovered him. His fantastical creatures, disturbing and glorious yet depicted so storybook-like. He was truly connected to a dream though his hands. The images once seen stay forever with the viewer. When I saw this collection roll out I got increasing excited because what a challenge to tackle.  If you are going to dare to involve such a beloved artists’ work with your own you really take a huge risk. This could have gone in so many directions… Ultimately I think they took a tame perspective and it works. They paid tribute to the fantasy and the beauty without making it inaccessible.

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Dolce & Gabanna 

When I first became a fan of Dolce & Gabanna I was a fashion obsessed pre teen. It was the 1990’s and they were running their Chelsea Girls inspired ad campaign. I was hooked immediately and I have not been anble to free myself from their grip ever since – nor would I care to.

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1992 Ad Campaign

This collection is like a touchstone. It has elements of all the things that I have loved them for over all these years. The corsets, the religion, the Italian heroine, all topped with crowns! This is so the epitome of Dolce & Gabanna. Glorious!

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Gareth Pugh

These three looks are sophisticated, startling, and evocative. I dream of seeing that harlequin dress spin. It is my favorite dress of the season.

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Tom Ford

Wow.

If those are indeed sheer and sequin striped jeans on the first model then just show me where to pay. Why are these not a staple? Like blue jeans or leather pants?? Best pants of the year – hands down. The coat also modern and cool and billowy and sexy and yes please. And yesssssss – black sequin cape ensemble!?!? Killing me!! Rock and Roll meet drama! Hooray!

10 Tom FOrd

Lanvin

Dragon Print Pants and Snakeskin bag. Boom.

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Gucci

Chinoiserie! Thank you Gucci for answering my prayer. And not just Chinoisere, ohhh nooo – they did beaded, mixed patterns chinoiserie. They did femme fatale disco chinoiserie! YES! This is so fantastic – I’m sure Ana Sui is dying over these… They are GEORGOUS!

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Erdem

I have heard (on Project Runway from Nina Garcia) that green is the worst selling color in fashion. Considering how flattering it is that surprises me. How could this green be a hard sell I wonder?

I love seeing the Asian inspiration of course, not to mention the floaty feminine draping and delicate details – all shown in colorful prints. These dresses are lovely – just what I was hoping for.

13 Erdem

~Sidebar~

So I couldn’t help but notice that Valentino is heavily influencing designers. The silhouette and exotic peasant persona that they single handedly introduced seasons ago has trickled down to so many other collections. Here are just a few that cannot be disputed…

Tadashi Shoji, Erdem and Honor

14 Val Rip

Valentino

The pinnacle. They are still so far ahead of everyone else here. They continued to use traditional cultural prints. Here they have evolved from the previous eastern European style to more of a Spanish? I can’t put my finger on it but it’s charming yet graphic and the colors are perfect. Then the move to the mystical ocean theme? I’m not sure how they got from one to the other but when you are showing  79 looks you can tell a hell of a long story. The coral painted jacket is surprisingly elegant. The embellished dresses are like stunning costumes from a glamorous old movie. They defy an era.  Classic Beauty. They have done it again.

Valentino 1 Valentino 7 Valentino 8

I have been furiously pinning from Pre Fall and it seems there are a lot of the bohemian looks I was hooing to see in Spring. Until then though – check us out on Pinterest. See you soon, Cheers!!