Tag Archives: Joseph

Men’s Fall 2016 Review

Men’s has been heading the way of more relaxed styles as a reaction to all the skinny suits and skinny jeans of the last big trend. Yet now we seem to be coming to find a tidy balance between the exaggerated and oversized, and the impossibly snug. This is great time in fashion when the trends aren’t swinging too far to one aesthetic. Sprinkle in a bit of Edwardian and Gothic and we’ve got Fall 2016. Here are our favorites.

Joseph

So here we have the moderate version of that slouch look. It’s an easy fitting pant with an easy fitting sweater and yes, an easy fitting jacket. It’s laid back, it’s cool and it’s surely a hell of a lot more comfortable than skinny jeans. (Always love a tuxedo pant.)

 Joseph
Costume National

I like how they have taken a bit of that Edwardian, Edgar Allen Poe Goth trend that is resurfacing and relaxed its often rigid aesthetic. You still have the costumey Edwardian vibe with the silk stripe pant and velvet vest but they aren’t quite so heavy nor so strict. The gothic peeks out in the form of pointy boots and zippers at the knee. Not too much, not too far, just right to work into an existing wardrobe.

 Costume National

Joseph Abboud

Here is an admittedly more subtle and decidedly English country version of the Edwardian trend. The Pants again are a bit more relaxed and the sweaters are easy. Love the relaxed feel of it all even in the velvet tuxedo.

 Joseph Abboud

Greg Lauren

Athleisure meets Ralph. The black on black vest and undershirt are a nice choice, keeping the vest from getting too hipster.  Then the jacket and loooooong shirt combo make a cool, albeit tough to pull off look.

Greg Lauren

Dolce & Gabanna

A really nice mix of the Italian houses’ signature flowers and appliques with the Edwardian influence. Love that leather jacket and excited to see a elegant little wallet chain. Believe it or not these pants are loose by D&G standards!

Dolce & Gabbana

 John Galliano

A little peek at the dandy with the flowers at the end. This is a cool guy who wants something distinctly different yet not gimmicky. Like most guys I know. The jacket and coat are just that, with distinctive design details which are enough to make them unique yet not subscribe to any trend nor specific era.

 John Galliano

Dries Van Noten

The French can thank Noten for keeping their name at the top when it comes to forward fashion. He often seems to take a cue from historic costume but always manages to completely make it his own. There has been a eastern influence in his work of late and here we see it again in the silhouette, the wrapped skirt and the buttoned up jacket of the worker. I don’t know if the embellishments are from a military or regal base. At face value though, they are very intriguing shapes and add a unique element of flair to the impeccably cut jackets.

 Dries Van Noten

Alexander McQueen

Edwardian Gothic is right in Burtons wheelhouse. She is a master at all things punk and Gothic especially if she has the freedom to make it a little femme at the same time. The prints are a gothic girls dream, all floral and butterflies in glorious black and white. The suits are so cool and the possibilities of mixing into a wardrobe are making my inner goth giddy. The long narrow black coats are stunning, especially the silver paisley. Finally, that rose print coat is like a dream come true. Oh that I had all the money in the world to spend on sublime flowery gothic fashion!

 Alexander McQueen

 Roberto Cavalli

This collection is like a smorgasbord of what is being shown by Gucci, St. Laurent and Marc Jacobs. Whether that is a good thing I don’t know, but I like what all those designers have been doing and I like what I see here too. Mostly the mash up of prints in dark colors and embellished velvet. The slouchy PJ’s and the leopard fur are all good fun. Not digging the chucks and the Aerosmith scarves but still some good buys here – mostly for me though, not so much my man.

 Roberto Cavalli

Haider Ackermann

Oh my God, a Misfits and Bauhaus mashup.

Misfits meet bauhaus

Ackerman answers to his own muse. This is not exactly on trend though it is undeniably gothic. This is rock and roll history in all its glammed out, hairless, skinny boy glory. These are rock and roll clothes and if you aren’t rock and roll at heart you just won’t understand and that is just fine.  If everyone liked it, it wouldn’t be special which is probably why it’s always leaned to the extreme – to keep the others out. When I started this review I had praised the designers for staying more toward the middle of the road on trends so I get the irony of closing on a totally extreme collection. I never said middle of the road was my favorite – just the most reasonable.

Haider Ackermann


Men’s Fall 2015

There was a notable shift on the runways for Fall 2015, from the prevailing “classic” man (the not too muscular debonair James Bond type) to more of a younger much more hip man. It really felt like the new poster boy for “Sexy” this season was The Geek. He was all over the runways in snug pants and black rimmed glasses, sometimes he was muscular and sometimes he was skinny. Either way he was everywhere. I get it, but it feels a bit late. I’m frankly surprised that this trend is just now becoming so popular with the designers because it really feels like this look was relevant a few seasons, if not years ago. It should have hit when Portlandia first came out, when popular music started including Banjos and Accordions. It feels passé, so for this post I skipped it.

The next most spotted type was the now super mainstream Rocker guy. Now it’s true that the Rocker look is a weakness of mine. I see it as one of the mainstays of cool because it is seasonless and timeless. And though I couldn’t resist pinning many of those looks, the sad fact was that none of them really said anything new. Just more tight leather pants – more lean shiloettes, more pointy shoes. Nothing that really made me say, “YES!” So for the first time ever – I’m not even going to include any in this post – I still love you John Varvatos, but Haider Ackermann is my new boyfriend.

Which leads me to the look that I feel is really refreshing. If you have been a follower or reader of this blog then you know my position on trends and how silly and predictable they are. Its been tight pants, tighter pants and tight little slim cut suits for so long. Naturally the most interesting and again REFRESHING thing on those catwalks was the slouchy, easy look of what I can best describe as The Slouch (it’s terrible I know). I have obviously struggled with what to call this look. It is definitely a reaction to the skintight dominance of the last decade – much the way it must have been in the 1980’s after the fit and flare decade of the 1970’s. Up to this point it has been Haider Ackermann in the forefront of this evolution though clearly more designers are staring to follow suit. Here are my favorites from Fall 2015 starting with one of the most pragmatic designers out there, Marc Jacobs:

Marc Jacobs

Time to relax and enjoy having some room to breathe in your trousers fellas. You have earned it. Now all you hip young things can strut with a swing in your step. These pants weighted down by a sharp looking cuff will have a nice little swish when you walk. You will actually feel the cool coming off you. Love the ease, the drape and especially the flat front. (Definitely no need to bring back the pleat front trouser thanks) This guy looks comfortable and cool despite the look of distain on his face which I don’t really get, I mean you don’t have to smile but c’mon. What a sad sac.  Geez

Marc Jacobs

Joseph

I had to throw this in because this image  really kind of says it all. The styling and the attitude are right there. Not a fan of the collarless coat but other than that, Yeah.

Joseph - Bag

Bottega Veneta

What I love about this is the modern day Englishman I get  from these looks. I realize it’s an Italian house and I get Italian as well. But at first glance I thought of 1900’s era street clothes and I dig it. I think it’s so charming and different from anything we have seen lately. This is probably the first double breasted blazer that makes me wonder why they were forsaken.

Bottega Veneta

Berluti

Here again is that same kind of look, the wooly blazer the hook laced boot, the fitted coat. They all have a rumpled, everyman 1900’s feel that is charming. Paired with the easy soft trousers it all feels so chic.

Berluti

Moncler Gamme Bleu

I have to include Moncler Gamme Bleu. Thom Browne always does something different and interesting and totally without regard to trends. I love him for this. Here is my order: I would like one pair of the pants on the first model and the jacket and pants from both other models. I would wear the hell out of these. I think the inset stripe through the leg it so cool and sexy, and these crazy, loud, over the top blazers are so in your face they cannot be denied. Love love love – for me that is. I don’t know too many men who could pull these off, but I’d love to meet them.

Moncler Gamme Bleu

Dries Van Noten

Another great visionary designer at Van Noten. I was really excited to see the Asian influence that I have been inspired by on this runway in Paris.  Chinoiserie has been my latest obsession and this is just right. The totally modern interpretation of the classic Chinese costume. The suit is especially successful in it’s wearability. The jackets turned inside out is such a clever way to style them and I am so curious as to how they look from the outside even though I totally took them at face value before I realized the trick. The plaid pants are really cool in that they evoke a bondage pant, punk rock Asain hybrid of sorts. and the Silk jacket and shirt in the center are just hard to pin down – it’s like sloppy elegance? Provocative and totally inspired.

Dries Van Noten

Haider Ackermann

Even though this collection is not the epitome of the Slouch (ugh – I have got to do better), Ackermann was certainly the first. Check out the breakout collection from last year. Here is the evolution and it is such  eye candy. The colors are rich as are the textures and the fabrics. As always the styling is everything particularly with Ackermann.  I don’t know that the clothes would make any sense if you didn’t see them presented in the designers’ vision. This man is Johnny Depp in his heyday. The thrown together expensive luxury of it all.  You can imagine the story of this man and it is romantic and captivating. This is totally brilliant and I want it all.

Haider Ackermann