Tag Archives: Louis Vuitton

Men’s Spring 2017

My new neighbor is a 20 something man who is a model and in a band. He is gone for months at a time on tours so I guess his group has some success. He is definitely what I would refer to as a hipster, but in the most endearing way. You see he’s a bit awkward and decidedly geeky. When I see him he’s always dressed in bright colors wearing high-water pants and shrunken tee shirts with narrow jackets and occasionally glasses. I would classify his style as fitting with the new Gucci aesthetic and I get it. It’s pretty adorable because he’s such an earnest fellow. Normally I would say menswear should be more simple, clean and cool. But he makes me smile and I’m always curious to see what he’s put together. Honestly though not many over the age of 26 could pull off that style, but you gotta be you, no matter the age.  Fashion is really the easiest and most accessible form of self-expression. You fly your flag to seek your tribe. That’s why it’s so important.

Here are my favorites from the Menswear Spring 2017 collections.

Gucci

I can see now that fighting against the new Gucci aesthetic is a waste of energy. I am finally at the point where I know what it’s going to be and that they have no intention of puling back on the excess. Okay, so it’s a new and very different Gucci now. Gone are the days of Tom Ford and his sleek sexy vibe.

Tom Ford for Gucci

Gone is the era of the 1980’s preppy god.

gucci-1980s

It’s a new dawn and the sun is rising to reveal satin and tat in all its gaudy glory.

So here we go:

Gucci

Alexander McQueen

I really like the Spanish style embroideries used on the jackets here. It’s difficult to add embellishments to menswear and not have it get gaudy or too feminine (see above). Usually I would say it’s just for the rocker type but here with the provenance of the Spanish heritage it remains dignified. I’m sure this will appeal to the younger, more hip type but if you were a more mature fellow, I think you could pull off one of these beautifully tailored jackets for an elegant, yet relaxed affair. The key here is to dress it down. I also like the designed prints on the suits because they always stand out and look very special.

Alexander McQueen

Haider Ackermann

Here’s what I hear in my head while looking through his collections,  Haider Ackermann is the coolest. I hear it on a loop in a sing songy way. It’s automatic. Ackermann will never be confused for any other designer. What he does is so distinctive and pure. It’s inspired and fascinating. The use of color is brilliant in that it’s at once unexpected and then totally natural. Of course those pants would have to be teal blue! His man is always on the cutting edge without ever getting tired or overplayed. This is just an eclectic fellow with confidence who exhudes style.

haider-ackermann

Dries Van Noten

Mr. Ackermann and Mr. Noten are really the two designers who are leading the way for the next generation with their vision and their laser focus point of view. This is what true designers do. They create a world and let us glimpse it. They offer you wonderful options that allow us to just pay a price to buy a form of self expression. They are taking the hard work out of expressing yourself by showing you a wholly different perspective. Noten always seems to know just when to shift gears and does so from say – the fitted to the relaxed – with ease. The colors as always are just as important to the design as the cut and fabrication, and all work in total harmony. Noten, in true French fashion takes risks and always has a dynamic and unique perspective.

dries-van-noten

Ann Demeulemeester

Yet another very cool French design house, Demeulemeester always has an edge that inspires admiration and yet still feels accessible. You don’t have to be a model or a fashion guy to wear these clothes…well the stripes might be a challenge for the regular Joe. There are some pieces here that would work for anyone and add that little something that says – hey, I know what I’m doing.

ann-demeulemeester

Valentino

I always have a sort of “meh” response when I see a military inspired collection these days – especially if it takes the canvas and fatigues approach as opposed to the more exciting Napoleon era Galliano approach. But here Valentino has really borrowed with refinement and if anyone could elevate camouflage they can. They have designed these clothes to be investment pieces that you can wear like jeans; the solid zip up jacket and the olive overcoat  feel easy and rather timeless. A clean collection that has just enough to stand out.

valentino

Louis Vuitton

Vuitton by way of Vivian Westwood? They feature Sid Vicious’ famous lock necklace – which immediately played the scene from Sid and Nancy in my head “Oh cool!” says Sid as Nancy clasps the lock around his neck, “where’s the key?”

“What key?”

Sid bursts into laughter. I’ve seen that movie waaaaay too many times.

sid and nancy

I used to have this poster on the back of my bedroom door. Mom didn’t care for it.

 

 

Aside from that there are also the infamous Fur sweaters.

westwood

Westwood and McLaren

Who is this new designer? As it turns out Kim Jones is indeed a collector of Westwood and McLaren’s and he has pulled some serious inspiration from them here – which is naturally my favorite influence of this show. There is  also some African influence which makes for an very unlikely juxtaposition. Punk and African that is, unless you were to reflect on the roots of Ska which is Jamaican but probably the closest association.  That’s just the music though and I don’t recall seeing any Rude Boys sporting Zebra Print. However despite all the confusion the Animal Print Creepers and  briefcase are perfectly awesome.

louis-vuitton


Men Spring 2016

Has 2015 been this looooooong of a year?? These collections seem like they are from ages ago. I’m finally getting a chance to sit down and work on the review and most of the images don’t even resonate anymore. I’m really surprised by that. Usually I don’t flip a switch that quickly, maybe it’s just because this year has indeed been a long one with some major changes. Experiences can shift your point of view, proof is right here. But I’m going to stick to my guns on this and show the majority of the looks I had picked way back in September.

Gucci

So I had been really excited about Chinoiserie this time last year. I even had a chinoiserie themed Christmas tree.  I painstakingly hand made at least 75 paper cranes that were glittered and tucked into the branches of the tree, the garlands, the wreaths and all. It was my obsession. To see some of the Fall 2015 and forward collections featuring that same idea was really satisfying. Even 3 months ago I was still thrilled to see these exquisite bird and branch patterned fabrics and embellishments.

Gucci
Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Dolce & Gabanna

This is more of the Italian version but in the same vain. I love the Pajama influence in the suit, it goes with my whole slouch theory from last season.

Dolce & Gabanna

Marc Jacobs

Speaking of last season, here is that same drip of a model from Jacobs Fall outing. What’s the deal Jacobs?

These pants are what it’s all about – these are very similar to the drop dead killer pants that started my obsession with Haider Ackermann (see below).

Marc Jacobs

Third pair…Still love this.

Haider Ackermann Spring 2015

Haider Ackermann Spring 2015

Haider Ackermann

Speak of the devil. In this new season Ackermann evolves the Asain influence. The center look most notably as well as other moments through the collection. This one was my favorite though, it is very wearable despite the potentially costume-y nod to traditional robes. Leave it to Ackermann to push forward with the idea successfully all the while making the designing seem effortless. The other two looks reference a 1980’s hipster which could go so very wrong yet it doesn’t. It looks cool enough to make me question why I would ever turn my back on a drop shoulder coat.

Haider Ackermann

Ermenegildo Zegna

More oversized, softened styles here and I’m really surprised that I love the colors. Normally all these pastels would be a huge turn off.  The coats themselves feel very 1960’s business man but the colors are so humble that you get this charming kind of sheepish he’s a gentleman but he’s earnest? I need a thesaurus and a poet to help me express myself here. I just find it charming in a rosy cheek kind of way. I try – I do.

Ermenegildo Zegna

Lanvin

In keeping with the theme, here are some more exaggerated shapes – note I don’t say “baggy” which would be a direct reference to the 1980’s. (Despite the model in gray bearing a striking resemblance to Al Pacino in Scarface) These are carefully tailored clothes, simply cut wider and fuller but the lines are still strong. Nothing sloppy here which makes all the difference. This red coat is outstanding I would share it (maybe) and wear it!

Lanvin

John Varvatos

Consistent. Varvatos delivers for his customer there is no doubt. This man will always have a sharp new suit every season that will be clean, fitted, and cool. If he wants to get crazy there is a version of the oversized coat thrown in there too. It’s so nice to have a designer at this level – in this rock and roll world who just gives you what you want.

John Varvatos

Roberto Cavalli

This collection actually looks more like his womenswear than what he usually delivers for the guys. I was a little surprised that the silhouette was so lean when he usually goes more broad – more beefy if you will. I know there is a new designer for the women’s, I don’t know if the men’s has been taken over as well but it does feel different. The women’s latest collection was horrible and felt like a very different house. In fact it’s the similarity to the original womenswear that leads me to believe that this was still by Cavalli’s hand. In any case I do like the clothes but more for me! Hah!

Roberto Cavalli

Thom Browne

Thank God for Thom Browne! Circling back to the chinoiserie influence by way of Edwardian gothic! I think this is incredible. By far the most stunning collection of the season. These are art. This is art.

Thom Browne


A Holiday Revival

Since the holidays unrelenting approach I have been busy.

Too busy as it seems to tend to this poor neglected blog. This is my bleated effort to stay current until I can finish the upcoming “Fall 2015 Review”, (which is embarrassingly late at this point). I have made reference to our Fashion Manifesto a few times in previous posts. It is one of the very first posts on our original blog (located over at blogger) and it was written back when I had time to spare. I keep thinking about it as I peruse the Pre-Fall 2015 look books and see shot after shot of Retro influences. So I thought since I don’t have the time now – nor do I foresee time becoming available until after the holiday blitzkrieg – that a revival of the good old gal was in order. In the meantime if you find you want to keep up with the enexile “feed” (sorry) you can always follow us on Pinterest – where we have TONS of inspiration organized into teeny digital boards.

I Hope you enjoy it and  Happy Holidays from enexile – Cheers!

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Historic Style


This is what I do best.
Clothes, fashion, styling, accessorizing, merchandising. I love it all. But I don’t love the trends, never have, though what is wonderful about fashion comes from the trends and after all they can be fun. I see the necessity, trends introduce the masses to new ideas and show variations of style, which is what I love about “fashion”, STYLE. I love to tell strangers that I dig their shoes, hat, top… whatever. Everyone loves a compliment, and when I get one from a stranger, it makes my day. We all like to think that we have style. I always thought that style was something you were born with, but as I’ve gotten older I really feel that though it can be innate (in a blessed few) it can also be developed. I have known several people who were uninspired, but after being exposed to good tailoring, good fit, flattering cuts etc – took to fashion gradually – and developed a real sense of personal style. So I encourage everyone I know to experiment, to try new things. If you’re spending any money at all on clothes, then you might as well spend it wisely. Style does not have to come with a huge price tag, fashion might but style  (once developed) can come from thrifting, discount stores, or high end boutiques. As long as you know what works for you. Then you can decide how much you want to invest in your wardrobe.

  Fashion presents itself in the form of trends – which are basically reactions to the last big thing. If “skinny jeans” are popular – you better believe the “full leg pant” will be on the runway next season. “Short is in“ ? Hell no … by the time people are wearing “short” at the mall – it’ll be all about “long“. So don’t bother. My advice is to take advantage of the trends (when the stores are stocked with options) to get the best piece for your long term wardrobe. If short is in, then here is your chance to invest in the short skirts or dresses that your wardrobe has been lacking. If you have style then you won’t care what is “in” and you’ll wear your favorite mini when everyone else says it’s “out“. Most likely it’s not the people that are on trend, but the people who are wearing what is “out“, (and WEARING IT WELL) that are the ones designers look to for inspiration. Be one who inspires, that is something to aspire to, and it will NEVER go out of style.


Speaking of never going out of style, here are my thoughts on what has been born from trend – yet has become timeless over the decades. I have kept fashion journals, I guess you could call them since high school and anything that I clipped from a magazine in 1989 that I look at today and still love – that is what I consider good design, good fashion and ultimately a good investment. These are my favorites from each decade…

From 1900 to 2010, here are my picks:

1900The Corset – at the time if you DIDN’T wear one you would have been shunned by proper society, yet ironically now it is considered risque. What a fantastic evolution. I certainly don’t suggest that you wear a corset everyday, but they are a beautiful piece when worked into a dress or jacket. They have never gone out of style.

The Original, the Modern and the Dolce & Gabbana

 

 

1910The Gowns -Now, obviously they had dresses prior to the 1910’s, but not yet like this. These were “gowns” not big fussy evening ensembles. This was a glorious era for intricately beaded, laced and trimmed gowns. If you look at old drawings of gowns from this decade, they are clear blueprints for the red carpet gowns of the generations that follow.

1920The Beads – beaded gowns, beaded bags, piles of long layered beaded necklaces. We can thank the flappers for all that beaded glory. Love it!!

 

From Coco Chanel to Louis Vuitton 2011

 

 

1930The Bias. The Bias cut was a revolution that hit in the 1930’s and draping was reborn. Fashion was changed forever, and my favorite example of the era manifested not in the evening wear, but in the nightgowns. Nothing says romance more to me than the silk nightgowns from the 1930’s, bias cut with touches of lace are so feminine, and just as sexy now as ever. I collect them fiercely whenever I can.

Jean Harlow to Donna Karen Spring 2011

Jean Harlow to Donna Karen Spring 2011

 

 

1940 – So much to offer – how does one thing stand out?
First and foremost is the amazing and classic hairstyles. Some of the most iconic looks come from the era of limited shampoo! Ironic. Veronica Lake, Rita Hayworth and many more of the glamour icons were featured in this decade. Versions of these hairstyles can be found easily in the decades that followed.

Veronica Lake and her iconic hairstyle

Veronica Lake and her iconic hairstyle

For clothing, this is a toss up between the Platform Shoe, and the Structured Suit. The Platform Shoe has been victimized by fashion many times over the years (hello 70’s – UGH!) but is best in it’s classic state – the platform peep toe is a definite classic. The structured suit for women will always be a staple, and we can thank the 40’s for some beautiful originals.

Carmen Miranda and her platforms, some lovely 1940's ladies off to work in their modern suits, and Dita Von Tease rocking the whole look today.

Carmen Miranda and her platforms, some lovely 1940’s ladies off to work in their modern suits, and Dita Von Tease rocking the whole look today.

 

 

1950 – Again I am torn, this time between the makeup and the clothing. First the classic 1950’s makeup. The big black false eyelashes, liquid liner and simple red lip are perfection. They will always look clean and fresh while looking youthful and feminine. For clothing – HANDS DOWN ICONIC – the blue jeans and the leather biker jacket. (Thank you Marlon Brando in “The Wild One”)

Who's a more perfect example of 1950's makeup than Marilyn?

Who’s a more perfect example of 1950’s makeup than Marilyn?

NOBODY is cooler than Brando

NOBODY is cooler than Brando

 

 

1960The boots. Love a great pair of knee high boots! This is also the birth of the mini skirt. Two looks that will forever be in style, regardless of trends. Find me a man who doesn’t love a woman in a mini! (Not that we dress to please men – just stating a fact)

1960s boots

 

 

1970 – So many wonderful fashion moments happened in this era despite the events of the decade. Here are the highlights for me: (all the runway looks are of like minded Balmain Spring and Fall 2011 respectively)

The Americana – the 70’s are responsible for most all of the looks that have become associated with the badassery of America, the American flag jean Jacket, the aviator sunglasses, the beat up leather pants – basically anything worn in “Easy Rider” (I realize easy rider came out in ‘69 – but it’s fashion impact hit in the 70’s for sure)
americana

Punk – One of fashion’s greatest muses. Tight leather, brightly colored hair cut wildly, metal as an accessory, I could go on…but I know you get it.

punk collage

Glam – Which I personally credit to David Bowie. Thank you David Bowie for your contribution to fashion and music and all culture in general.

glam collage
1980Goth! The era where punk meets sweet misery, and Goth is born amongst the neon and Lucite in a moment of fashion history. A personal favorite of mine as I was walking proof in my teens. I love to see Goth revived over and over on the runways – though black has never been “out” in my wardrobe…

(Top) Siouxie and The Banshees circa 1980, compared to (Left) Givency 2009 and this shot of  the Chanel Runway 2011.

(Top) Siouxie and The Banshees circa 1980, compared to (Left) Givenchy 2009 and this shot of the Chanel Runway 2011.

 

 

1990Grunge. I said it! I’ll never get tired of the juxtaposition of feminine and tough. We saw it here first when the baby doll dress was paired defiantly with army boots and plaid was given it’s 15 minutes of fame. Beat up jeans were reborn at ridiculous prices for the trendy (but dirt cheap for those who actually had kept their jeans – perfect example of how fashion always repeats.)

Marc Jacobs did grunge most famously (left) in Vogue 1992

Marc Jacobs did grunge most famously (left) in Vogue 1992

 

 

2000 – This admittedly is a tough one. It’s so close that it’s hard to have perspective. But here is my best bet. The hipster…much of what the hipsters wore in the millennium was retro with a twist, which will continue to define the hip in their future manifestations as it has in the former. But there are always a few new ideas that come about in the mix that help tie that particular group to their decade. In the case of the “Y” generation hipster, the most sustainable ( to use a term from their era ) were:
1.The side slung belt, or the layering of belts. Textured, colored whatever…the belt was a necessity worn off center or backwards, often layered 2 or 3 deep. This look still works for me, and I think it’s
a keeper.

The band "The Kills" is a shining example of hipster styling

The band “The Kills” is a shining example of hipster styling

 

2. The Vest. Now I know what your saying…the vest is by no means new. It’s been around FOREVER, but the way it was vested…now here me out. Yes, we saw the vest over the tee in the 80’s on the likes of Debbie Gibson (who ruined hats in the 80‘s also BTW) but she wasn‘t the only one. They were worn open, loose, over tee shirts with big breast pockets, paired with bike shorts (UGH!!) and to make it even worse – baggy socks and patent leather shoes tied with a bow! TRAGIC. I was one of the guilty, I did it too and I am ashamed. After this trendy application I never thought vests could make a comeback, but come 2000 the hipsters proved me wrong! It was done well by the Y-Gen, they took the vest and gave it proper distinction by choosing the tweeds, the worn leathers, the dignified vests. Coupled with the hipster trademark thin tee and skinny pant ( and belts) maybe throw in a few jumbled necklaces, one of those loosely slung scarves and viola! Hipster! The point is that the vest triumphed, and I for one was impressed at it’s cool rebirth. I now give the vest it’s proper due. The Vest…Is cool.

vest collage

So all this leads me to the point.

Hang onto those skinny jeans – they will be back in 6 to 8 years. Hold onto everything actually – if it still fits, keep it – it’ll come back in style, and if it’s a good solid well made piece it’ll be a shining example of timeless. I guarantee this to be true. In fact, I challenge you to make a fashion time capsule, take all the clothes you feel are not in style, (if this is an issue for you at all, really you should just wear what you like and not worry about it) and put it in a box for 10-12 years and trust me, those pieces will be cool again. In some cases, you will be considered fashion forward! The only issue then will be if YOU have moved on, not fashion.