Tag Archives: Markus Lupfer

Fall 2018 RTW

The Collections were all over the place, which is great in the sense that there isn’t really any overbearing trend that everyone is following. It seems that designers are feeling that they can experiment more. Perhaps they are under the influence of the runaway success of Gucci and the emergence of the Maximalist movement? There were tons of techniques on display;  abstract silhouettes in New York, fabric manipulation through layering and patchworking in London, color and texture in Milan and in Paris you’d have thought everyone just pulled ideas out of hat. If you saw all the collections and your general takeaway was,”What the fuck was that?” you aren’t alone. It’s a bit of a mess out there and the designers really need to regain their focus and tighten it up. Experimenting is fun, and they have a lot of ideas but they can’t ignore that part of their job is to work those ideas into a single presentation through tough editing and refining. Fashion should do one or more of the following; challenge, provoke, titillate, intrigue or dazzle – it should not be confusing or make one wonder whether something was done on purpose. On the bright side there was quite an abundance of expression which feels like the start of a revolution. Can’t wait to see where they go from here.

Alice + Olivia

 I always look forward to seeing the collections from Alice yet am often left feeling like they just missed the mark. But not this season, this time it was just pure unadulterated fun. It was flashy and unashamed, full of frills and rhinestones and color, pattern, prints and shine, fantastic! It is inspiring me to be playful and dress up like the little girl in me wishes I would. And how badly do I want those striped sequins boots?!? Badly. Very badly.

 

No.21

Clothes for the alternative girl that makes you wonder where does she get her clothes? In my experience she’s usually the girlfriend of one of my boyfriends friends and she’s not actually that cool but she has this style that is impossible to pin down. It’s not goth, but its gothy, not grunge but she’s grungy, not punk but there’s a note of it in there and not rockabilly but her hair totally is and the cat eye glasses she always wears… It’s that  eclecticism which is built in to this collection.  Now you can go out and purchase that cultivated wardrobe all in one place, (not over years of scouring thrift stores, cherry picking oddball pieces from friends, even occasionally splurging on a new item from that cheeky little shop in SOHO like she did). It’s kind of sad in a way, that a designer can appropriate a personal style – even if she’s an amalgam. But I guess that’s what many designers do now that I think about it. Hmm….epiphany.

 

For Restless Sleepers

I love this designer. The colors and prints are sumptuous as well as the fabrics and draping. It’s like dessert…before bed.

 

Max Mara

This collection had wearable clothes for either the cool girl or the chic lady, which is hard to do in one outing but here it is. The leopard pencil skirts, long coats and camel staples could go either way and were styled to just walk the line between either customer. Pretty savvy from a marketing perspective. And being Max Mara you know it will be well cut and fit with quality fabrics and craftsmanship. Something for everyone here.

Coach 1941

The wooing of the hipsters continues to be in full swing at the house of Coach 1941. This time it was by way of a 1970’s hippie shaman vibe. There was Native American inspired topstitching and fringe that led nicely into the patchworked leather looks of the 70’s. Not typically my taste on either account but it was fun and felt different from what everyone else is doing – though there are many doing a 70’s revival, AGAIN. This was a fresh take and offered up some modern vintage feeling pieces that are covetable.

Simone Rocha

This collection is fascinating in its layering and play with silhouette. There is no shortage of things to look at and each look feels more like a composition than an outfit. It may not seem avant garde upon first look but there are definite moments where this is forward thinking and pushing beyond the norm. I especially love the printed/embroidered sheer fabric layered over the printed silks where the effect is 3 dimensional. There are also interesting choices in putting the dresses over the coats yet still styling them as wearing dresses and putting necklaces (crossbody necklaces) which are so cool and reminiscent of the English royal garb with their regal sashes and adornments. Overall this collection has a pomp and extravagant quality mixed with a street and almost punk attitude which is very much in the style of Vivianne Westwood and I dig it.

 

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce and Gabbana are the Chanel of Italy. You can count on seeing variances of the corset dress in the same way you can count on the seeing Chanel suit. It is a perennial item in every collection and has solidified the idea of sexy when you think Italian fashion. There is always color, they are always bold and the accessories are a whole universe unto themselves. This world. is. defined. and continues to be exciting and inspiring every time we get a chance to glimpse it.


Rochas

Am I the only one who always get Rochas and Rodarte confused? They both always bring color and extravagance to the table but Rochas definitely brings the sophistication that (sorry) Rodarte is sometimes lacking. This collection had such a beautiful color palette; deep navy blue, rich celadon green, pale blush pink, gold, plum, and raspberry. I love these colors together and they played off each other brilliantly. The addition of glittering embellishments in floral motifs made the whole collection feel like it had a touch of otherworldly magic. Just lovely.

J.Mendel

So there was a lot of fur in this collection. We’re not ethically on board with fur but the collection was beautiful. Luxe fabrics draped expertly gave an overall feeling of opulence. There were some embellishments that took away from the elegance here and there (like feather hemlines and what looked like sheepdog fur trims, ick) but the long gowns were stunning and I suspect we might see a few at this years Oscars.

Oscar de la Renta

I cannot express how much I love what is happening over at the house of Oscar. It’s akin to the rekindling of spirit that is happening at another great house, Dior. These new designers,  Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia are doing such a beautiful and respectful job of reinterpreting the integrity, the grace, elegance and sense of absolute refinement that these houses were built on. This collection is another in recent seasons where there are old-fashioned techniques and classic silhouettes being reimagined for the modern woman who is seeking elegance.  She has the money to wear the best and she radiates sophistication. I love this. CONTEMPORARY ELEGANCE! At last!


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Resort 2017

Not sure what to make of the Resort collections. It has always been a season that is up for interpretation and here it continues to be like California Architecture – a mix of all styles.  Choosing favorites becomes even harder  because I am choosing between drastically different types of collections.  Some are chic and breezy for a vacation while others are showing outerwear and brocade. I tend to lean toward the more warm weather wear for this season as it just feels like the more natural definition of RESORT. That being said here are my favorites.

Antonio Marras

What I love about this aside from the sense of nostalgia, is the way the patterns are mixed and sewn. The dresses have a certain old timey feel that appeals to my desire to play dress up.

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ADEAM

As a big cardigan fan I can’t help but have a visceral response to cardigans looking cool and not conservative. Others often remark I look like a librarian or a teacher when sporting one of my many handy, lightweight layering pieces. So to see the cardigan shine here (not through embellishment or pattern) is pretty nifty. I also find the use of shape and proportion intriguing. The wide trousers, which are becoming more and more prevalent on runways are extreme yet still classic.  They choose a  pinstripe which is unusual for resort but it’s brilliant here where it acts as a more sophisticated seersucker. The touches of girlishness seen in the bows and flounces are paired with the more masculine stripe resulting in an easy, chic vibe.

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Elizabeth and James

This is truly a Resort collection. Wherever these girls are going I want to go too. This is elegant, breezy, sophisticated and cool. I’m feeling Belize, Cannes, the Spanish Rivera? A glistening aqua pool overlooking a magnificent vista. Sign me up – and pack these clothes.

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Nina Ricci

Ricci strikes the perfect balance between modern cool girl and retro 1930’s cool girl.

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Markus Lupfer

This looks more like Markus Lupfer for Target. It’s a decidedly commercial outing but that’s okay with me. Particularly for the resort season where you are supposedly shopping to supplement your transitional wardrobe or for a tropical vacation. Ahh the good old days when flying was a glamorous and exciting endeavor,  not like being on a city bus. Anywaaaaaaay, these are all solid items that work for either requirement. The palm print is a long time favorite of mine and I am pleased to see it come back into fashion. Showing it in navy/black is a nice variation on the classic green/white combo.

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Anna Sui

I guess I would consider my personal style somewhere between gothic and bohemian. With that in mind this collection offers some very wearable and practical items for either my pseudo goth vacation, or just a nifty new dress or cardigan to blend into that eclectic closet of mine. Love the nod to grunge in the dresses but not quite sure I could ever wear a choker again. Like a former hippie swearing off bellbottoms or a yuppie rejecting shoulder pads, sometimes you just can’t/won’t go back.

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Di$count Universe Australia

So apparently I need to go to Australia and get a job working with these two chicks. They are having entirely too much fun down there and it is blasted all over these clothes. The cut on the pink blazer is perfection and the leather shirt/jacket whatever that is – covered in studs is so obvious I cant believe I haven’t seen it before. The boots are outrageous and the color combinations are dead on. Rock and roll is alive and well in the upside-down.

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Gucci

Here is what resort looks like when you give absolutely no fucks about what season you are designing for. I continue my love hate relationship (one sided) with the latest incarnation of this iconic house. The embellishments are getting even more insane to the point where I almost get angry about the gall of this guy! How dare he pile it on with total abandon, doesn’t he know where he works? Its like a slap in the face to the history of the house. A once elegant and daresay preppy powerhouse is now known for its insane hipster/dork gaudiness. It irks me to see the association because it’s just too drastic, but I cannot look away. Worn all together makes me want to cover my ears it’s so loud but if you pull out items on their own they are just. so. cool. ARRRRGH! SO COOOOOOOL. Green leopard coat? Yes. Silk printed skirt? Yep. Sneaky snake and floral printed spring dress? Uh huh. Tartan, leopard, stripes, cats, tigers, roses? Yes! I give up! You win Mr. Alessandro Michele. As if I stood a chance…

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