There was a notable shift on the runways for Fall 2015, from the prevailing “classic” man (the not too muscular debonair James Bond type) to more of a younger much more hip man. It really felt like the new poster boy for “Sexy” this season was The Geek. He was all over the runways in snug pants and black rimmed glasses, sometimes he was muscular and sometimes he was skinny. Either way he was everywhere. I get it, but it feels a bit late. I’m frankly surprised that this trend is just now becoming so popular with the designers because it really feels like this look was relevant a few seasons, if not years ago. It should have hit when Portlandia first came out, when popular music started including Banjos and Accordions. It feels passé, so for this post I skipped it.
The next most spotted type was the now super mainstream Rocker guy. Now it’s true that the Rocker look is a weakness of mine. I see it as one of the mainstays of cool because it is seasonless and timeless. And though I couldn’t resist pinning many of those looks, the sad fact was that none of them really said anything new. Just more tight leather pants – more lean shiloettes, more pointy shoes. Nothing that really made me say, “YES!” So for the first time ever – I’m not even going to include any in this post – I still love you John Varvatos, but Haider Ackermann is my new boyfriend.
Which leads me to the look that I feel is really refreshing. If you have been a follower or reader of this blog then you know my position on trends and how silly and predictable they are. Its been tight pants, tighter pants and tight little slim cut suits for so long. Naturally the most interesting and again REFRESHING thing on those catwalks was the slouchy, easy look of what I can best describe as The Slouch (it’s terrible I know). I have obviously struggled with what to call this look. It is definitely a reaction to the skintight dominance of the last decade – much the way it must have been in the 1980’s after the fit and flare decade of the 1970’s. Up to this point it has been Haider Ackermann in the forefront of this evolution though clearly more designers are staring to follow suit. Here are my favorites from Fall 2015 starting with one of the most pragmatic designers out there, Marc Jacobs:
Time to relax and enjoy having some room to breathe in your trousers fellas. You have earned it. Now all you hip young things can strut with a swing in your step. These pants weighted down by a sharp looking cuff will have a nice little swish when you walk. You will actually feel the cool coming off you. Love the ease, the drape and especially the flat front. (Definitely no need to bring back the pleat front trouser thanks) This guy looks comfortable and cool despite the look of distain on his face which I don’t really get, I mean you don’t have to smile but c’mon. What a sad sac. Geez
I had to throw this in because this image really kind of says it all. The styling and the attitude are right there. Not a fan of the collarless coat but other than that, Yeah.
What I love about this is the modern day Englishman I get from these looks. I realize it’s an Italian house and I get Italian as well. But at first glance I thought of 1900’s era street clothes and I dig it. I think it’s so charming and different from anything we have seen lately. This is probably the first double breasted blazer that makes me wonder why they were forsaken.
Here again is that same kind of look, the wooly blazer the hook laced boot, the fitted coat. They all have a rumpled, everyman 1900’s feel that is charming. Paired with the easy soft trousers it all feels so chic.
Moncler Gamme Bleu
I have to include Moncler Gamme Bleu. Thom Browne always does something different and interesting and totally without regard to trends. I love him for this. Here is my order: I would like one pair of the pants on the first model and the jacket and pants from both other models. I would wear the hell out of these. I think the inset stripe through the leg it so cool and sexy, and these crazy, loud, over the top blazers are so in your face they cannot be denied. Love love love – for me that is. I don’t know too many men who could pull these off, but I’d love to meet them.
Dries Van Noten
Another great visionary designer at Van Noten. I was really excited to see the Asian influence that I have been inspired by on this runway in Paris. Chinoiserie has been my latest obsession and this is just right. The totally modern interpretation of the classic Chinese costume. The suit is especially successful in it’s wearability. The jackets turned inside out is such a clever way to style them and I am so curious as to how they look from the outside even though I totally took them at face value before I realized the trick. The plaid pants are really cool in that they evoke a bondage pant, punk rock Asain hybrid of sorts. and the Silk jacket and shirt in the center are just hard to pin down – it’s like sloppy elegance? Provocative and totally inspired.
Even though this collection is not the epitome of the Slouch (ugh – I have got to do better), Ackermann was certainly the first. Check out the breakout collection from last year. Here is the evolution and it is such eye candy. The colors are rich as are the textures and the fabrics. As always the styling is everything particularly with Ackermann. I don’t know that the clothes would make any sense if you didn’t see them presented in the designers’ vision. This man is Johnny Depp in his heyday. The thrown together expensive luxury of it all. You can imagine the story of this man and it is romantic and captivating. This is totally brilliant and I want it all.