After drudging through the Pre Fall 2019 Collections seeing one after another of mixed up mash ups that all started to look the same for their differences, it became clear that the key to success in this fashion climate is to BE MEMORABLE. Whether the collection is tried and true, retro, modern, post modern, revival, whatever it is make it memorable. It used to be a safe bet that if you were outrageous enough or avant guarde enough or conversely, minimalistic enough that “memorable” would be in the bag. But not anymore. The market is saturated – at a time when the trends are so easy to replicate – like this current one of maximilist mixing and upcycling, layering and contrasting, it’s getting harder and harder to distinguish poseurs from talent. I can’t tell you right now of one collection that has stood out from the rest. That’s crazy. That is why there are so few collections in this post…
I love that this collection is chock full of clean lines and timeless simplicity. These are serious staples for any young, chic, sophisticate. The sequin is done tastefully and the gowns are clean so you can either go simple and elegant or add accessories to personalize them. I’m pretty sure this is what we are all looking for.
I love the treatment of the blazer in this collection, the lining with the leopard is cool (Dolce and Gabbana do this too) and the studs reference a classic DYI punk leather jacket. We did a small collection of upcycled vintage blazers for our in-house line enexile originals back in 2002 where we studded, patched and embroidered blazers and they remain one of my favorites. Wish I kept one for myself! I feel like it’s time for the vintage blazer to make a serious comeback – pushed up sleeves and all!
This line is always a bit hit and miss for me because often the idea overwhelms the clothes but sometimes the balance is just right and we get wonderful theatricality and gorgeous clothes to go with it. This is one of the later and we got a showstopper of burlesque meets the ancient Romans. Said to have been inspired by the films of Fellini there are references to Hollywood’s image of ancient Rome. But the standouts for me were the gold letter and motif embroidered coats and jackets. They feel special and unique while being easily wearable. The embroideries add richness with their heavy gold threads stitched into dark thick wool. And the beaded pieces inspired by the showgirls costumes are are flashy and joyful. Overall a solid showing from designer Jeremy Scott.
This collection had a whole lot of looks but not that many ideas. Overall you just get Ruffles. An exploration of the ruffle in fashion; a single ruffle, a deconstructed ruffle, and abstract ruffle, avant guarde ruf…you get the idea. Valentino is unquestionably the pinnacle of fashion when looking for elegance, sophistication and quality. The garments are beautiful and luxurious and that’s good. But I miss the great – the spectacular and outstanding! Beautiful though, no question.
Not the most exciting but certainly exquisite. Tailoring takes center stage in this collection of elegant and sophisticated high fashion garments. This is definitely the all grown up McQueen. These are highly wearable staples where any of these pieces will elevate a wardrobe.