Tag Archives: Reem Acra

Fall 2017 Favorites

 

When the first of the Fall 2017 shows stared rolling out I was excited to see that the colors I had been obsessing over the last few months were represented. Plenty of burnt orange, mustard yellow and navy blue playing together among the collections. And gold – gold was everywhere, especially paired with black, (which takes me back to my jr high dance so I don’t know about that one) There also seems to be more mixing of textures such as satins and wools paired together.  I was surprised however when the Paris collections began and there was a dominance of baby blue and pink. Weren’t those the colors for last year? I can’t figure that out other than perhaps they warmed up to the idea(?) though the French are not known for following so it’s perplexing. Regardless, there is always immense diversity which is the very best part. So many choices. Isn’t it wonderful to have CHOICES!

I also can’t help but notice a deliberate pandering to the millennial crowd. Heres a tip – putting Doc Martins on the model does not transform that dress. Nor does that tired slouchy knit hat or the alternately so ugly it’s cool socks with sandals trick. Just make the clothes and leave out the gimmicks please.

Alice + Olivia

I always want to love Alice + Olivia because in theory it very much my personal taste. A little rockabilly and a little cheeky with some sparkle and girlishness all mixed together. Yet oftentimes the collection seems to just miss the mark. This time around there were a more than a few that hit and it’s my pleasure to add them to the seasons list of favorites. Particularly the camo set minus the pants whose length is bothersome, but the top and jacket are awesome. See what I mean?  Just a little off. The bird skirt is great too though I’d prefer it with a tank, cropped jacket and a hip slung belt. The white sweater and skirt are perfect and I would put that on right now, go get some coffee and be admired for my easy cool style.The two dresses are lovely especially the last A-line allover print which is one of my favorite of the season so far. So nice to have a dress that you can’t see thorough!

 

Fay

I must say that I like this because it looks like my wardrobe from when I was in my early 20’s. Plaid bondage pants that I used to wear with oversized sweaters, box pleat mini skirts with cropped jackets. Snake skin pants – if I could’ve found a snake skin jacket a’la Nick Cage in Wild at Heart I would have been all over it.

This reemerging of the trends from 20 years ago goes back to a post I wrote regarding the cycle of fashion, where I theorized that the designers now taking over the houses are looking back to their youth for inspiration on their current collections. This is how we end up revisiting eras 20-30 years later. It simply takes that long for most designers to work their way up to the top, and when they do, they are nostalgic for a simpler time.

 

Cinq A Sept

I love the colors and prints and the way they have been styled to compliment each other in such a creative and unexpected way. Like the sky blue and brown coat with the blueberry and black dress or the peach cardigan with the bubblegum pink and burnt orange dress. There is such life in these colors that the clothes really become like candy to the eye.

 

Dice Kayek

There aren’t many designers playing with volume right now – at least not as many as there should be. Volume feels like the next big thing so I’m interested to see more from this designer going forward.

 

Gary Graham

Although this particular collection isn’t my style, I think it’s distinctive and uniquely cool. The layering of knits with brocades and leather is intriguing and unexpected yet it works. The prints are all working together with textures and embellished pieces to create this modern bohemian vibe that is very provocative. My favorite is the first look where the embellished shirts are layered together and dressed down with the casual pant. so much is happening but none of it fights – it’s so harmonic. Such a distinct voice here. Love that.

 

Jil Sander Navy

Wait…This is Jil Sander? But it didn’t bore me out of my chair. Intriguing.

 

Ann Demeulemeester

What can I say other than they are designing for the modern day goth. This is the goth aesthetic. Romantic, dramatic, emotional dark and complicated. The teenage goth in me can’t help but love that. I also love that when they do incorporate color they tend to use it as a dutch painter might – contrasting deep hues with barely there tints. Now that may not be what others see. Perhaps they see modern in the consistent black and white palette, or maybe edgy due to the interesting draping and choices of textures and creative styling. Demeulemeester straddles a line where costume meets contemporary always resulting in a performance worth catching.

Hiader Ackermann

SO I have to admit I was disappointed to see a predominance of black this season from Ackermann. I adore when he uses color but here there was only a small touch of blue – vibrant though it was. He did have his own take on the black and gold trend which was masterful, naturally. where the gold was painted in like a vein along a few choice garments and it was powerfully chic. Still a myriad of impressively tailored shapes and of course the exquisite jackets. There are 2 looks in here from the menswear show that I had to include because those pants are killer and that teal blue velvet is stunning.

 

 

Maticevski

My take on this designer to date has been that they are about silhouette and volume. That is still true, but now they are crossing into sculptural design and the result is at times breathtaking. There are two looks in this collection – the white gown with the high slit and the black gown – that are so sculptural that the model in clothes actually looks like a sculpture. When fashion and art meet it isn’t always pretty, nor does it need to be by any means! But here truly, it is nothing short of beautiful.

Dolce & Gabbana

It’s funny how when I see the Dolce and Gabbana collections now I can’t help but think of what is showing at Gucci. There is certainly a shared affinity there, yet when I see Dolce I hear myself saying (out loud to no one) “See! This is how you do it!” There is a restraint at Dolce that has come with experience. They have the ideas and they know they have a lifetime to share them. They don’t have Gucci’s urgency to shove them all into a few dozen looks every season. I never would have used the word restraint in the same sentence as Dolce and Gabbana prior to this, just goes to show that context is everything. In any case, this is how it’s done. Allover sequins and insanely embellished accessories can be sophisticated and womanly. They don’t have to be hipster and loud. Adjust the volume back to 10, it doesn’t always need to go to 11.

Gucci

Well this time they take a bit of a Wes Anderson turn. I’m realizing that the Anderson type has always been there and feel silly that I didn’t notice before. Maybe now the dust is settling I can see the sweatbands and peter pan collars of The Royal Tenenbaums. In my defense there is just so much to see. There is less however of the trompe l’oiel, the snakes and crabs. Still animals though and still sequins, florals, prints and plaids, stripes and trimmings and satin and bows. It’s a lot. I still like all the glorious pattern mixing and over embellishment, but truthfully the excitement is wearing off. There is no more shock, no surprises. Now that wouldn’t even factor in to a collection normally, but when you start out so big and you keep at it, it can either get stale and the novelty wears off, or you go bigger or change it up drastically. So far it seems they are headed for the first of those. But we’ll see. Perhaps there is something up Michele’s sleeve…

 

Naeem Khan

Oh my god if Liza and Cher had a lovechild. These are some far out spangly getups. I especially enjoy that Khan really went for it with the styling too. Just because the dress in covered in beads and feathers doesn’t mean you can load on piles of necklaces and enormous earrings good Lord! That being said though there are some gowns in here that I could see showing up in a museum one day, like the one with the (is that a) bee belt. That’s a work of art.  It takes a big personality to pull off one of these outfits.  If you can, please do because we need this kind of go big glamour in our fashion.

Marchesa

I love the Celadon green, the cherry red, the chinoiserie, the trims of velvet ribbon and the fringe. It’s old Hollywood spit shined and dolled up. Hard to resist all that shimmer and shine.

Rochas

I really like this collection. The palette is paired down to basics and the prints are bold yet filtered into simple shapes. They are simply elegant and chic, with some great options for holiday.

Christian Dior

I was surprised to see the theme of outer space coming up so often during the shows. It’s not often spaceships as it is more celestial. It’s hard to make a spaceship chic. But here was more of a continuation from the tarot influenced collection of last season, with more of a focus on the moon and stars. Normally I would lean more in favor of the sparkly, embellished options, but here I really enjoyed the solid offerings. Where the cuts and shapes were the stars – no pun intended. The shapes brought to mind what Dior became famous for, new silhouettes and divine tailoring. These harken back to a time of simplicity and elegance with out all the fuss and tat. Perhaps seeing season after season of glittering sheer dresses covered in applique of everything from animals to, well spaceships, has taken its toll. These modern, clean elegant pieces say so much more and have more substance.

Alberta Ferretti

Pretty Pretty Pretty!!! A sucker for a flowing floaty dress. The colors are soft but there is a mystique to these clothes, like they are hiding a secret about the wearer. Film Noir clothes if Noir was in the 1930’s instead of the 40’s.

J. Mendel

From the first look I sucked in my breath. Oooohh! I love this. Love the textures together and the tiers and the black beading on the navy it all seemed so regal. The looks are grand and elegant and you can sense the richness and quality. These are heirloom garments.

Reem Acra

The play of textures and volume while done with luxe rich fabrics and jewels is nothing short of regal. These garments evoke an aura of royalty in their execution of cut and form and fabrication. The fabrics are heavy and dense and you can imagine the decadent feel of them. The way she has created her shapes which have a avant-garde origin yet somehow seem completely organic. Only a master of draping can take volume to this extreme yet have it look so sophisticated with not a hint of pretentiousness. If you have ever had the opportunity to wear something from Reem Acra than you know these clothes are transformative. I can only imagine how amazing this collection would feel to wear. Queen for a day indeed.

 

 

 

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Resort 2018

Resort had a lot of clothes. And despite there being so many designers showing collections for this often skipped season,  there was not a lot of “fashion” happening. Perhaps it’s because designers are becoming more acutely aware of the need to be commercially viable? In any case most collections were full of reasonable options. Lots of pretty floral dresses, modern looking separates in black and white, some stripes, an occasional jumpsuit, some denim. Meh. Nothing to write home about, feels like we are waiting for the next big thing to hit. In the meantime, here are my favorites.

Chloe

I’m digging the  modern interpretation of a seventies sophisticate in this Chole collection. It’s not costumey or overly derivative. Modern and feels light, perfect for Resort.

 

Rochas

You know, I bet I’d like some of these looks if I could actually see them. This trend of action posing, dance poses, leaping, what have you is really annoying. This is the line sheet – meant to show the clothes. Theatrics work on the runway because the models are in front of an audience who can see the garments in 360, and photographers who are choosing the best angles to VIEW THE CLOTHES. It does not translate in singular 2 dimensional, conceptual photos. I can tell there is something on the front of the gold gown but all I see is the zipper. WTF? Save the artistic interpretation for the ad campaign.

Antonio Marris

I love that Marris clearly reveres vintage clothing. The collections always have a dusty, I found a trunk of grandmas clothes and costume jewelry in the attic, what a find! kind of feel, yet there is always a cheerful quirkiness and sense of mischief about them. The colors are subtle and always mix wonderfully together.  There are a lot of them too, so it’s quite a task to make all those patterns and colors and accessories harmonious, but they do it time and again. That’s the eye. A curated persona for an unusual and intriguing customer.

Johanna Ortiz

This is just a great collection for Resort. The fabrics are rustic where you’d want them, light where you’d want them with a touch of glam here and there.  There are playful dresses for dinner and great outfits for a day of sightseeing and shopping for souvenirs. The colors are mellow yet cheerful and the shapes imply a lighthearted playful vibe.

Alberta Ferretti

Another collection where Resort is dedicated to the idea of being at an actual Resort. (Which makes the most sense to me.) There are some charming safari prints and a cool color palette of mustards and olive greens set against white. I don’t usually go for safari themes but these are done in almost a chinoiserie style which I do love, well done.

 

Erdem

In this collection it’s easy to see that Erdem are masters of color coordinating and pattern design.  I especially like this group for the overall darker palette which allows the touches of bright to shine. The retro silhouettes are always a favorite and are done here beautifully with an air of elegance. The gloves get to be a bit much though and in some cases kind of look like the model is off to assist with the birth of a baby calf… Other than that there seems to be a Spanish feel in the ruffles and one shoulder looks and the florals have a Café in Spain appeal. All in all there is a cool, feminine quality that is perfect for Resort.

 

Elie saab

You can always count on Elie Saab to bring the drama. I’m really into burnt orange, navy and celadon green at the moment so this was pretty satisfying. Saab took full advantage of Resort to get extra glamorous and design for the fantasy vacation. A yacht in the south of France… perhaps the Tahian islands…? Decisions decisions.  However these are just a few from a large 48 look collection full of suits and jackets in leather, lace and knits, see the rest here.

 

Michael Kors

Easy, graphic and comfortable. These are great mix and match pieces with zero pretense. All the best sportswear pieces are represented including the crowd pleasing tunic, wide leg trouser and jacket and the quintessential halter dress.  Solid collection.

 

Reem Arca

Glamorous. Sophisticated. Elegant. Reem Arca stands firm here in her position as one of fashions premiere tastemakers. She has put forth an enviable collection of clothes worthy of seducing James Bond – or rebuffing his advances.

 


Pre Fall 2015 Review

I realize that as a retailer I should be concerned that my favorite looks from the collections are almost always the least shared on the interwebs. (It’s just more fun to say interweb)

I know the idea is to choose the most Pinned, Tweeted, Tumblered or whatever. But truthfully, most of the images I choose have something like 20 shares.  It is always the case that the items I love the most on the sales floor are the ones that end up on the sale rack (or in my closet) so I should be used to it. I am able to see a slam dunk seller when I see it, so that’s how I get by sales wise. But I’m still shocked most of the time at the ones with the 400+ shares vs the low scorers. Do I just not get it? I know I tend to lean toward more flashy, busy, statement pieces overall but am I that disconnected from the public? And is that good or bad?

Here’s what I liked best in Pre Fall 2015:

Burberry Prorsum

These little simple dresses are really something I strive to wear. I end up in pants – but I really want to be this ladylike coquette. I tell myself that if they were made this well and fit this perfectly then I would wear them. I’m holding to that. The coat I would wear with my pants 🙂 and everything else because it is the quintessential leopard coat. Not too anything, just right for Goldilocks.

Burberry Prorsum

Alexander McQueen

This jumpsuit is…yeah, it’s… wow.

  The fact that its slouchy and woolen, masculine and drapey all at the same time. It’s amazing that they were able to pull this off. I cannot imagine the original idea, “hmm, a draped, boat neck, wool jumpsuit with trouser pants.” That’s a conundrum, yet here it is. Bravo – the jumpsuit for people who don’t wear jumpsuits.

McQ Alexander McQueen

Just Cavalli

As much as I love Cavalli, I am not usually a fan of the sportswear line. Yet this round he served up a 1990’s Tom Ford Gucci meets Cavalli mash-up. The trouser Tux is surprisingly cool girl chic even with sequin polka dots. Imagine it on a French girl or Rhianna or whatever… see? That 1970’s hooker fur is not my favorite but the pants are channeling Tom Ford jetsetter which I find irresistible. Red snake-skin jacket? YES PLEASE – Rock and Roll ladies, Rock and Roll.

Just Cavalli

Rochas

So switching gears from real life to Paris. Rochas does something unique. They capture a myth. They design for this artistic, somehow wealthy young woman who walks the streets of Paris. Well heeled shoes clacking hollowly along the aged cobblestones. It’s an overcast day with a chill in the air that adds a natural blush to her cheek because this girl does not need makeup, oh no. She is tousled and lovely from the moment she lifts her head from her 5,000 thread count pillow, in her chic tiny yet affluent Parisian apartment. And you buy it. You buy it hook line and sinker. She exists and I want to be her for a day. Perhaps if I buy this impossible to wear dress with the strikingly charming boxy silhouette I can channel her. This gorgeous silk embroidered satin coat will bring me inspiration. This dress will show the world that I am complicated and unique. This stunning soft gown with the momentarily blooming wisteria print will say it all.

Sold.

Rochas

Valentino

For once Valentino is not the closing act of this blog! This time the collection – though beautifully crafted, got a bit too everything for me. There were references flying all over from camo to quilted, 70’s suede to grandmas attic. It didn’t really hold up overall and the themes felt a bit gimmicky. The solar system embroidered pieces were great I guess, but they seemed more Gymboree than high fashion. The boots though…These boots are so freaking cool. Wow wow wowie wow. These transcend era – I love that. Simple shapes, perfect proportions and inspired medium. The striped leather are fundamental statement boots that defy trends. The floral silk are classic and sophisticated and charming and romantic and could be in an oil painting from the age of empires.

Valentino 2

Valentino

Reem Acra

Known for her exquisite gowns, no question Reem Acra is one of the best designers of women’s high-end formal wear. Here you can SEE why. You do not need to try these on to know that they are cut within a millimeter of your body. Somehow magically improving your figure through the painstaking and evolved engineering of delicate, exceptional fabrics. You can see the way they enhance the figure with placement of details, proportion, where the seams fall, the embellishments. It’s all crafted to perfection. The result is stunningly beautiful. These pieces are flawless, exotic, feminine, strong and sexy but not overtly in any way.

Acra at her best. Perfect.

Reem Acra