Tag Archives: Roberto Cavalli

Fall 2016 Review

We really get to have the best time drooling over the fall collections. It is by far the biggest blowout of the year. The collections present complete wardrobes laced with epic backstories. Layers of sweaters and skirts, boots, jackets and coats and the gowns! Hooray for gowns;  impossibly extravagant gowns, clean sleek gowns, embellished, layered, draped and dramatic – this is their time.  This is fashions bright shining moment where designers bring us their earnest best. Day to evening, including outfits for every possible circumstance. The nail-biting, the ulcers and the sleepless nights all come down to that runway and it’s so exciting. There is so much to see this year, so much variation and so much great work that it was very difficult to edit it down to just these few.

Damir Doma

Deconstruction had its trendy heyday about a decade ago so when we see it nowadays, you know the designer is a true devotee. This is their aesthetic not just a gimmick. And here it really shows. The use of the technique is thoughtful and designed which keeps it looking elevated and not shabby. The layering is beautifully done and enhances the garments’ proportions. While the color palette of black and white, neutral and utilitarian is true to the genre. My favorites are the jacket and coats, especially the white which compliments the all black uniform underneath with a hip result. (The shoes and jewelry are cool too.)

damir-doma

Aganovich

Aganovich gets me again. It’s still in need of refinement – there is something that is keeping it looking like design school level – not quite elevated enough yet. But they are definitely on to something and I’m still waiting to see them evolve…

aganovich

Maticevski

The silhouettes shown in this collection are amazing. The volume is done with such precision that it doesn’t overwhelm the model even when that seems impossible. The proportions are perfect, the fit is impeccable, the result is ultra feminine and chic.

maticevski

Moschino

I love the subdued jewel tones and the theatric elements of this collection. Jeremy Scott is known for his unapologetic designs which are usually more satirical and pop culture centric. The pop culture collections don’t interest me much but this one gets me solely on its charred dresses. (Although the day of the dead tails are cool on their own) The Dresses themselves are pretty but then he stets them on fire and they are suddenly tragic and punk all at the same time. No doubt this is a very fun show to attend and though the theatrics and sparkle got me, but the rest of the collection was just meh.

moschino

Paule Ka

If you are in your 20’s and in search of the perfect cocktail dress than Paule ka has got you covered. Well crafted and cut just right to evoke a playful simple charm.

paule-ka

Les Copians

Who wants to be snuggly, adorable and chic as that girl walking on the bridge over the left bank in Paris on a drizzly fall afternoon? I do!

les copains

Alberta Ferretti

The dusty colors and soft fabrics are lovely. The first dress is delightfully unusual in the combination of its metallic base and matte rusty-red detail. There is a sense of antique to the whole group that evokes nostalgia for feminine softness. It’s romantic and poetic and I find that irresistible. I love when the clothes transport you to another time and place.

alberta ferretti

Erdem

So gloves have been making a comeback. Talk about nostalgia. They often look baggy and sloppy to me, and God forbid they be spandex ((chills)). I love these three looks though, despite the gloves. This is a confident woman and she means business. Erdem always has florals and this print is one of the coolest they have done. The metallic and the green against the matte black background is dangerously close to looking upholstery yet reads as very sophisticated here, especially in the Asian style dress. The coat is borderline muppet but is saved by the graphic pattern of the fur. The shoes are fantastic too!erdem

Antonio Marras

There is something very unique about this designer. Nothing he does looks derivative – at least of nothing I’ve ever seen. He has such an original point of view that I can’t help but be intrigued. Where does he get his ideas? How does he come to his design resolutions? The choices are not obvious. They are in fact distinctive in their obliqueness. Whoa, I am overdosing on the vocabulary words. Just goes to show what an inspiration a unique perspective can be.

antonio marras

Gucci

It’s still an embellishment bonanza over at Gucci and I can’t say I don’t like it. There are SO MANY IDEAS here, it’s insane. It’s as if the designer has just been holding all of these colors and patterns and images in his head until he finally just exploded all over the workroom. There is chinoiserie, there is disco, there is every conceivable era from the 1900’s all the way through to 2015. What can be said? There are pieces I love here and there and little jems hidden amongst the Where’s Waldoesque chaos. I cannot imagine wearing it all together but mixed into a wardrobe, paired with some basics. For example a black camisole with those sequins pants would still stand out without going over the top. Or the Jacquard coat with good old jeans.  And it may sound crazy but that tiger bag could be an everyday item. At least it would be if I got my hands on it.

guccigucci

Roberto Cavalli

I love this interpretation of bohemian. It feels very authentic and not like costume for once. It’s decadent and full of rich fabrics, sensual textures and jewel tones. The teal blue with the deep green is such a stunning and rich combination. And who can forget the stunning yellow Beyoncé gown which is now iconic?

One of the best things about this collection is the styling. It is an excellent guide for how to dress something down. Yes, you can dress down sequins and you can dress down gowns. It can be one of the coolest cool girl secrets you’ll ever learn. The second look featuring the belted beaded gown paired with boots and a scarf is the perfect example. That dress on its own could go to the Oscars, but how many people are going to the Oscars… Styled this way, dressed down it can go out to cocktails or even an afternoon of shopping and a late lunch. Brilliant!

roberto cavalli

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Somehow Vivienne Westwood is always doing classic Vivienne Westwood. She has such a singular point of view which is never obstructed by trends or outside influence. It’s always just coming out of her head. It is so cool in there. I love that she shows slouchy yet tailored and masterly draped clothes time and time again. While not everything she designs is easily wearable, these four looks sure are.

vivienne-westwood-red-label

John Galliano

Ooooh there is a little glimpse of the Galliano dandy from the days of Dior. The cheeky Louis XIV rapscallion. Obviously not with the decadence of Dior Couture. This is more of a wearable – I’m guessing from the shoes – street style dandy perhaps? But those dresses do have the same feel as the stunning concoctions he showed on those ladies of the court in the 1990’s.

john galliano 6-john-galliano-1

Central Saint Martins

So these are student designs from the St Martins college, I don’t know who the designer is. That is a shame because these dresses are lovely and do not look like student work at all. The draping and cutting is perfect and in these shapes that it not easy to do. It takes a deft hand. Hope to see more from this designer – whoever they are!central saint martins

 

Rochas

I think my favorite thing about this collection is the color story. I’m dying to see burnt orange, teal blue and emerald green, navy and mustard yellow.  Here is more of a muted version of those colors, but I’ll take it. So satisfying! I also love the first three dresses because they require little thought, no special underwear or accessories. You could just throw it on and go.

rochas

Nina Ricci

I wasn’t sure I needed to include these dresses because they aren’t really anything special, yet here they are, included. Is it that they are kind of simple? We have definitely seen them before. Perhaps it’s that they are wearable party clothes. Most anyone could wear these shapes and these styles. They aren’t exclusive to a thin girl, a busty girl, a cool girl or a conservative. From left to right they are clean, playful, a bit flashy and a bit sexy. Wouldn’t one of these work for that night out you have coming up? I think so, and you would look really good. Easy! That’s why they are included.

nina ricci

Rodarte

The first time I saw this collection I thought, “My dream prom come true. A stunning, elevated, gothic prom complete with fishnets and live orchids.”

When I was editing the post I looked at this same collection and thought “Were they going for 1930’s French hooker?”

What a difference a few months makes! In either case I still really like these looks, they are so overdone in the best possible way. All the elements have been worked out and come together in the looks. Even with so much piled on there isn’t anything completing for attention. You get to see it all because it’s cohesive.

Rodarte

Haider Ackermann

This collection looks as if it is starting to borrow a bit from the menswear line – which  I love because as much as I like the menswear collection for men, I love it more for me! So this works out very nicely, very nicely indeed. Plus the added bonus of the very cool striped dresses mixed in amongst the infamously cool Ackermann cropped jackets. The colors as always are a perfect palette of brushed metallics, earthy base tones (in this case green) and a shock of electric color (here it’s pink). Do you want to look edgy and still be the picture of sophistication and impeccable taste? Do you want to look cool without looking trendy? I sure as hell do. My adoration for Ackermann is not secret and he does it true to form every single time.

haider ackermann 10-haider-ackermann

Alexander McQueen

I just recently watched the Documentary The First Monday in May ( I highly recommend it btw) and there is a section of the film devoted to The Met’s Alexander McQueen exhibit. I marveled at the images. I realized that I had adjusted to Burton’s vision of McQueen and had almost forgotten his genus. He was a master at showing beauty and nature in all its rough and raw glory. He reveled in Natures brutality and was fascinated by her adaptiveness and fierceness.  Burton is less dramatic and less in touch with that sense of awe and wonder for the world and now I feel almost disappointed. But is that fair? How do you follow a man who left no traceable path. He was truly inspired in the most pure form.

This collection by Burton for McQueen shows that she does honor his roots as best she or anyone most likely could. There are elements of romance, punk and natures wonderful display here and they are altogether cool and modern and spectacular. But I cant help but wonder how Alexander would have done it.

alexander mcqueen 11-alexander-mcqueen

Dries Van Noten

So many designers this season and the previous few actually, have been showing pajama sets and leopard prints. So it’s nothing unusual or particularly exciting to see them here. What makes this collection stand out from all the rest is class. The word “classy” has always stuck in my craw a bit because only classless folk use the term “classy”. It’s really more of a slang term so it seems to negate the credibility of the compliment simply due to the perspective of the user. Here though it feels like a perfect fit because so many of the pajama looks and leopard prints being shown by other designers are a trendy version: a rock and roll version, a club version or a quirky hipster version.  These clothes on the other hand, look elegant and expensive. They are high fashion, not trendy and marketable. No cheap commodities here – oh no. These are the clothes one aspires to wear. To be that park avenue woman who represents strength, intelligence and CLASS.

dries van noten dries-van-noten

Valentino

My first thought in seeing this collection is “Oh my god finally some new silhouettes from Valentino!” Without question Valentino has positioned itself as the bellwether for high fashion. Most every designer has elements (let’s be kind and say) inspired by what has been shown on the empirically impressive runway at Valentino. We can trace the illusion dress, the long fitted gown, the narrow shoulder and the turtleneck seen of late all back to this house. Not to mention the entire embellishment trend. They have been showing variation on these established powerhouse designs for at least 6 seasons now so it’s refreshing to see some new offerings that go in an entirely different direction. I love these fuller flyaway skirts and the lightness they bring. In fact lightness seems to be the theme of this collection which features feathers and clouds as motifs. The illusion dress has run it’s course so I’m excited to see where they go from here.

valentino

 

 

 

 

 

 


Pre Fall 2016

It’s going to be so sad around here when the embellishment trend is over. It’s getting so gloriously out of hand that its doom is assured. Fashion cannot, will not tolerate anything to go too far for too long. Soon it we be a big swing toward *minimalism and modernity, wha wha wha.

Enjoying this as much as I do it’s fun to see what I think is an influence coming from the reemergence of Cuba into the consciousness. There are so many beautiful bold colors and patterns shown by the likes of Valentino and Andrew Gn. Then there is the ongoing extravaganza happening over at Gucci. It’s so fun to see all these designers just pile it on. This is also apparently the time to stock up on those grunge era floral dresses as they are in just about every other collection. I am enjoying it while it lasts!

*(Although as I go though the images I am realizing that I included a few that could be described as just that – minimal and modern, and they look great. I guess what I mean to say is the trend that seems to have stolen the spotlight is embellishments while other houses will always continue to follow their own point of view. As they should.)

Here are my favorites from Pre Fall 2016…

 Jil Sander

This is more of the slouch look that I really have been enjoying from the past year. This is also minimalist and modern – but that is the Jil Sander aesthetic so they would likely rather shutter their doors than stitch on a single sequins. I really like this though, the wide trouser is easy and cool and the coat is like a modern New Yorkers idea of a Navaho blanket coat. It’s cool girl – but it’s also easily cool woman. Now that is refreshing.

 Jil Sander

Adam Lippes

Moving on here we see a touch of the inevitable leopard jacket that almost everyone seems to be showing these days. Hey – a perennial favorite – no complaints here. I like this group because it’s full of essential separates and solid staples. It feels very collegiate sophisticate. A good solid base for a young woman just building a wardrobe.

Adam Lippes

 Michael Kors

Always super wearable and distinctly American in the best way. Kors has this unique ability to channel the best styles from eras of American fashion and funnel them into modern looks. I love a printed trouser because I love clothes that do the work for you. With a good print you can easily print match or just go with a basic solid on top and still look stylish. The dress is versatile which is the mainstay of sportswear, add a little jacket or cardigan and you can wear the hell out of it. The coat is a great cut, and would be just as cool for evening as dressed down with jeans. Good old American sportswear I tell ya.

 Michael Kors

 No. 21

I have been waiting for the floral dress to come back for so long. It really feels like we haven’t seen this since the 1990’s grunge era. I had at least 6 and loved to wear them more than any other look since then. I wish I still had them but sadly I actually wore through my favorite ones and must have sold the others. In any case about 10 years ago I was looking everywhere for a simple long dress that I could layer and wear with boots or sandals and there weren’t any. ANYWHERE. So hooray for the return of the printed floral dress. I love the classic colors here, and the pleating feels cool and swingy. The babydoll dress and coat are respectively charming and studenty. (I like to add the letter “y” to words.) The coat has that look like a fashion student would love it (in the best way) because it is actually pretty cool. The last look is a nice marriage of both and I dig it.

 No. 21

 Rochas

More of that grunge influence in the styling and the “house dress” element. Love the colors and the florals being mixed with plaids and leopard. These combos are an all time favorite ever since I saw my first Ralph Lauren campaign. The slouchy coats are hip and easy, and that thigh slit is genus. The gold dress is just the right amount of frumpy, kind of like,”It’s so ugly it’s cool” right? The leopard coat is a nice one for sure. I particularly like the print itself as the color is less golden and more beige. The last dress has got a little break at the floor like a men’s trouser and that’s a pretty nifty detail.

 Rochas

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

I included this one more for the ideas. The first dress is really feminine and pretty just begging to be worn with a masculine element like boots or a mens jacket/moto jacket. Just not a fan of the print. Same with the skirt next to it, I love the shape, the lightweight fabric and pairing it with the plaid shirt, just don’t like the print. The final look features a skirt that is probably one of the best skirts I have ever seen. I love the extra long length, the pleats down the front, the tie at the side, it is the epitome of cool girl. The possiblilites of looks is endless: a simple white beater and boots with a leather jacket or layer on a slouchy ivory sweater or tuck in a loose silk blouse sloppily and pair it with a strappy flat sandal. I just want it.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Erdem

Now these prints I love.

The first dress is just as simply pretty as it is ripe to be paired with a masculine element. It is so ready to be worn as a grunge dress just add boots and a leather jacket or oversized cardigan. The next looks are all about the print. Love dark colors contrasting against pastels.

Erdem

Just Cavalli

The First dress is a great throw it on to cover all sins dress – everyone needs one of those. The rest is just straight up grunge for the modern gal. The red leather insert on that jacket is clean and makes it special. The floral dress is just right, not too fussy or frilly, just enough length and transformable through accessories. Some good staples here.

Just Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli

Overall very costumey when styled all together like this. It’s as if you fell into an Aerosmith/Stevie Knicks acid laced smoothie. There are certainly some pieces you could cherry pick out of here that are amazing.  The jackets alone are outstanding and have so much potential of being your new favorite thing. The rest is just for fun.

Roberto Cavalli Roberto Cavalli

Gucci

Did someone say fuuuuun??? Yeah I know I hate that term unless you are talking to toddlers but really what else can I say? This is fucking fun. Here is a continuation of the theme from the last collection with the snakes and the trompe l’oeil… It’s iconic and great for the new designer to make his mark but I hope he moves on soon before it all starts to look like one long collection. That being said, whenever a designer goes full imaginarium there is always some amazing work to snatch up if you can. I am reminded of the original Moschino and his iconic surreal collections. These are investment pieces. And the gold pleated skirt is just really awesome and I really want it.

Roberto Cavalli

 Andrew Gn

Here is that Cuban look I was mentioning earlier. The colors, the styling and the vintage feel all take me to Cuba. I really love the sweet feminine designs with the bold colors. There is an energy to these clothes that is very unique. I especially love the lace inset blouses, they are so delicate and bold at the same time. Its exciting, truly.

 Andrew Gn

Valentino

Yet another stunning collection from Valentino. Full of energy and fantasy. The first group of looks have an Asian ethereal feel that is so calming yet have the energy of motion. Like a meditation by the water. I love the painterly colors – you don’t often see such colors, (for example in the skirt) in textiles they are more often seen used by artists. Subtle and powerful. The dresses are so lovely that it doesn’t bother me that they are the same silhouette and the same see through dress that has been done to death over the last few seasons. If you were going to wear one – wear one of these. The second group must be more of the Asian theme because of the dragon, but I just saw Cuba. The vibrant colors and graphic use of stars and explosive imagery. It is more in your face power as opposed to the earlier looks’ more subtle strength. I love these all, just inspiring!

Valentino Valentino


Men’s Fall 2016 Review

Men’s has been heading the way of more relaxed styles as a reaction to all the skinny suits and skinny jeans of the last big trend. Yet now we seem to be coming to find a tidy balance between the exaggerated and oversized, and the impossibly snug. This is great time in fashion when the trends aren’t swinging too far to one aesthetic. Sprinkle in a bit of Edwardian and Gothic and we’ve got Fall 2016. Here are our favorites.

Joseph

So here we have the moderate version of that slouch look. It’s an easy fitting pant with an easy fitting sweater and yes, an easy fitting jacket. It’s laid back, it’s cool and it’s surely a hell of a lot more comfortable than skinny jeans. (Always love a tuxedo pant.)

 Joseph
Costume National

I like how they have taken a bit of that Edwardian, Edgar Allen Poe Goth trend that is resurfacing and relaxed its often rigid aesthetic. You still have the costumey Edwardian vibe with the silk stripe pant and velvet vest but they aren’t quite so heavy nor so strict. The gothic peeks out in the form of pointy boots and zippers at the knee. Not too much, not too far, just right to work into an existing wardrobe.

 Costume National

Joseph Abboud

Here is an admittedly more subtle and decidedly English country version of the Edwardian trend. The Pants again are a bit more relaxed and the sweaters are easy. Love the relaxed feel of it all even in the velvet tuxedo.

 Joseph Abboud

Greg Lauren

Athleisure meets Ralph. The black on black vest and undershirt are a nice choice, keeping the vest from getting too hipster.  Then the jacket and loooooong shirt combo make a cool, albeit tough to pull off look.

Greg Lauren

Dolce & Gabanna

A really nice mix of the Italian houses’ signature flowers and appliques with the Edwardian influence. Love that leather jacket and excited to see a elegant little wallet chain. Believe it or not these pants are loose by D&G standards!

Dolce & Gabbana

 John Galliano

A little peek at the dandy with the flowers at the end. This is a cool guy who wants something distinctly different yet not gimmicky. Like most guys I know. The jacket and coat are just that, with distinctive design details which are enough to make them unique yet not subscribe to any trend nor specific era.

 John Galliano

Dries Van Noten

The French can thank Noten for keeping their name at the top when it comes to forward fashion. He often seems to take a cue from historic costume but always manages to completely make it his own. There has been a eastern influence in his work of late and here we see it again in the silhouette, the wrapped skirt and the buttoned up jacket of the worker. I don’t know if the embellishments are from a military or regal base. At face value though, they are very intriguing shapes and add a unique element of flair to the impeccably cut jackets.

 Dries Van Noten

Alexander McQueen

Edwardian Gothic is right in Burtons wheelhouse. She is a master at all things punk and Gothic especially if she has the freedom to make it a little femme at the same time. The prints are a gothic girls dream, all floral and butterflies in glorious black and white. The suits are so cool and the possibilities of mixing into a wardrobe are making my inner goth giddy. The long narrow black coats are stunning, especially the silver paisley. Finally, that rose print coat is like a dream come true. Oh that I had all the money in the world to spend on sublime flowery gothic fashion!

 Alexander McQueen

 Roberto Cavalli

This collection is like a smorgasbord of what is being shown by Gucci, St. Laurent and Marc Jacobs. Whether that is a good thing I don’t know, but I like what all those designers have been doing and I like what I see here too. Mostly the mash up of prints in dark colors and embellished velvet. The slouchy PJ’s and the leopard fur are all good fun. Not digging the chucks and the Aerosmith scarves but still some good buys here – mostly for me though, not so much my man.

 Roberto Cavalli

Haider Ackermann

Oh my God, a Misfits and Bauhaus mashup.

Misfits meet bauhaus

Ackerman answers to his own muse. This is not exactly on trend though it is undeniably gothic. This is rock and roll history in all its glammed out, hairless, skinny boy glory. These are rock and roll clothes and if you aren’t rock and roll at heart you just won’t understand and that is just fine.  If everyone liked it, it wouldn’t be special which is probably why it’s always leaned to the extreme – to keep the others out. When I started this review I had praised the designers for staying more toward the middle of the road on trends so I get the irony of closing on a totally extreme collection. I never said middle of the road was my favorite – just the most reasonable.

Haider Ackermann


Men Spring 2016

Has 2015 been this looooooong of a year?? These collections seem like they are from ages ago. I’m finally getting a chance to sit down and work on the review and most of the images don’t even resonate anymore. I’m really surprised by that. Usually I don’t flip a switch that quickly, maybe it’s just because this year has indeed been a long one with some major changes. Experiences can shift your point of view, proof is right here. But I’m going to stick to my guns on this and show the majority of the looks I had picked way back in September.

Gucci

So I had been really excited about Chinoiserie this time last year. I even had a chinoiserie themed Christmas tree.  I painstakingly hand made at least 75 paper cranes that were glittered and tucked into the branches of the tree, the garlands, the wreaths and all. It was my obsession. To see some of the Fall 2015 and forward collections featuring that same idea was really satisfying. Even 3 months ago I was still thrilled to see these exquisite bird and branch patterned fabrics and embellishments.

Gucci
Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Dolce & Gabanna

This is more of the Italian version but in the same vain. I love the Pajama influence in the suit, it goes with my whole slouch theory from last season.

Dolce & Gabanna

Marc Jacobs

Speaking of last season, here is that same drip of a model from Jacobs Fall outing. What’s the deal Jacobs?

These pants are what it’s all about – these are very similar to the drop dead killer pants that started my obsession with Haider Ackermann (see below).

Marc Jacobs

Third pair…Still love this.

Haider Ackermann Spring 2015

Haider Ackermann Spring 2015

Haider Ackermann

Speak of the devil. In this new season Ackermann evolves the Asain influence. The center look most notably as well as other moments through the collection. This one was my favorite though, it is very wearable despite the potentially costume-y nod to traditional robes. Leave it to Ackermann to push forward with the idea successfully all the while making the designing seem effortless. The other two looks reference a 1980’s hipster which could go so very wrong yet it doesn’t. It looks cool enough to make me question why I would ever turn my back on a drop shoulder coat.

Haider Ackermann

Ermenegildo Zegna

More oversized, softened styles here and I’m really surprised that I love the colors. Normally all these pastels would be a huge turn off.  The coats themselves feel very 1960’s business man but the colors are so humble that you get this charming kind of sheepish he’s a gentleman but he’s earnest? I need a thesaurus and a poet to help me express myself here. I just find it charming in a rosy cheek kind of way. I try – I do.

Ermenegildo Zegna

Lanvin

In keeping with the theme, here are some more exaggerated shapes – note I don’t say “baggy” which would be a direct reference to the 1980’s. (Despite the model in gray bearing a striking resemblance to Al Pacino in Scarface) These are carefully tailored clothes, simply cut wider and fuller but the lines are still strong. Nothing sloppy here which makes all the difference. This red coat is outstanding I would share it (maybe) and wear it!

Lanvin

John Varvatos

Consistent. Varvatos delivers for his customer there is no doubt. This man will always have a sharp new suit every season that will be clean, fitted, and cool. If he wants to get crazy there is a version of the oversized coat thrown in there too. It’s so nice to have a designer at this level – in this rock and roll world who just gives you what you want.

John Varvatos

Roberto Cavalli

This collection actually looks more like his womenswear than what he usually delivers for the guys. I was a little surprised that the silhouette was so lean when he usually goes more broad – more beefy if you will. I know there is a new designer for the women’s, I don’t know if the men’s has been taken over as well but it does feel different. The women’s latest collection was horrible and felt like a very different house. In fact it’s the similarity to the original womenswear that leads me to believe that this was still by Cavalli’s hand. In any case I do like the clothes but more for me! Hah!

Roberto Cavalli

Thom Browne

Thank God for Thom Browne! Circling back to the chinoiserie influence by way of Edwardian gothic! I think this is incredible. By far the most stunning collection of the season. These are art. This is art.

Thom Browne


Fall 2014 Ready to Wear

The Fall collections are the most anticipated of the year. It is here where you will see the strongest work of the season (hopefully) from the designers. Collections can be anywhere from 10 looks to 50 (if you are Karl Lagerfeld).  Every designer shows for Fall so there are hundreds of shows to see and likely thousands of collections to review. Here we have widdled them down from merely hundreds to just a simple few of the most impressive. In no particular order,  here they are:

No. 21

Always a fan of sparkle for the daytime. I love the dressed down styling here which lets you see just how easy it is to wear glitter in the afternoon. The pants are ca-razy and I would wear them all the time everywhere with a wife beater and an army jacket.  Also love a piece that does all the work for you like this coat for example – which could be thrown over anything and look like an outfit.

 No. 21

Diesel Black Gold

We used to carry Diesel at the shop.  We sold the hell out of the jeans and leather pants but never had much success with the rest of the line. This is because most of the time garments were trying too hard to be street and just came off kind of cheesy. There were lots of neon trims and graffiti style randomness on the clothes. This always made me crazy because they were cut well and fit well so they didn’t need all that nonsense. It makes me happy to see clean, wearable pieces that aren’t loaded up with trendy gimmicks. These are all great pieces here and I bet I could sell the hell out of them.

aa Diesel Black Gold

Michael Kors

I love this collection. Kors just keeps getting better or at least maintaining his high standard.  This is the sophisticated lady that is achievable for women. His clothes are priced well and he cuts with more sizes than most which is awesome because not all women with class and style are rocking a 26″ waist.

The fringe bags are cool without being western or overly bohemian. The suitings are drapey and easy not stiff and straight. It all looks so classic and charming, flawless.

B Michael Kors bags

b Michael Kors

Haider Ackermann

This is one of the best modern designers. I mean he designs modern. The clothes have a timelessness that seems to be of the future. They are designed utilizing all our modern techniques and fabrications with out feeling forced. He really has an innate insight into what it means to design clothing for now – without being derivative.  He has a true vision all his own that speaks to today – truly a designer who was born at the exact right time.

c.Haider Ackermann

Prabal Gurung 

I don’t always like experimental because often times it steps into art and thus no longer functions. This designer often manages to make something that could easily be classified as such look totally chic and wearable.

e Prabal Gurung

Roberto Cavalli

Once again there are just too many to choose from. I love Cavalli – clearly – as I probably have pinned more of his looks than any other designer.  I want to live in this world. These are clothes for living the fantasy and what would fashion be without the dream? This is where I would go for the killer dress – the knockout suit – the drop dead scene-stealer. This collection has some awesome moments – for instance, the leather studded fringe that somehow manages not to look like something Versace would do and make cheesy. The 1920’s glamour puss flapper dresses with the art deco beading that transition from “Angel” to “Devil” and the (holy fuck!) Flame coat with the fur collar… Yes.

ee Cavalli suits eee Cavalli black eeee Cavalli white dresses eeeee Cavalli red

Jason Wu

This is 1998. I wore these draped bias cowl neck dresses in burned out velvet and the plum patent leather witch shoes. I rocked them then and I would do it again. They are not original, not modern and not classic. They are pretty clothes and I really want those T-Straps at the end.

eeeeee Jason Wu

Salvatore Ferragamo

Ombre Crocodile? I give, you got me. I know Ombre is a crazy trend right now and I know it’s probably going to look like rainbow suspenders in hindsight but it’s just so cool.

eeeeeee Salvatore Ferragamo

Erdem

The clothes in this collection were beautiful and had some really gorgeous details.

The shoes blew them all out of the water.

Erdem

Vera Wang

I don’t think anyone could possibly argue the talent of Vera Wang. She is always experimenting with technique which is the mark of a true artist. The fact that she consistently turns out wearable clothing is a testament to her savvy . I also love that her accessories’ are always part of the designs – no afterthought. You can tell the jewelry has received the same scrutiny as the garments. In this collection she has once again shown us something new with the fabric treatments and details. There is always a sense of romance in her collections  (I say fully aware of her Bridal notoriety) that mixes dare I say; dangerously, with the darkness that is always right at the surface.

I think she is awesome – a true businesswoman in black leather gloves.

g Vera Wang g Vera Wang details

Hugo Boss

I never think of Hugo for women. Just suits. Nice men’s suits that you get at Nordstrom where they throw in free tailoring. These two looks caught my attention though because they have successfully accomplished something where many have tried and many have failed. These are both charming examples of the schizophrenic look we are seeing EVERYWHERE. The half pant / half dress of the she male from old timey freakshows has apparently been inspiring fashion.  Rarely is it successful and usually just looks like what it is – two looks cut in half and sewn together. I can see the designer in the fittings insecurely tilting his head to the side while the entourage all nod and say, “it’s fabulous!” Bullshit. It’s dumb.

But here, here it actually is done quite gracefully and it’s not too forced. It doesn’t look off balance at all. In fact the movement of the chiffon gives the feel that a full skirt has just blown open from the breeze to reveal the shimmery pencil skirt underneath. The fluidity adds a softness and mystique to the looks. Success! At last someone does it right.

gg Hugo Boss

John Rocha

I don’t know what this fabric is. Some kind of coated lace? It’s probably the best party dress I have ever seen.

h John Rocha

Talbot Runhof

I can only hope that they didn’t mess this up by featuring an open back or something predictably daring like that. This is like the hip yet obnoxious maxi dress you’d expect to see in some stock footage from the 1970’s. It was cool then for the same reason it’s still cool. It’s bold.

j Talbot Runhof

John Galliano

 What John Galliano did for Christian Dior was outstanding. He was/is by far the most fun, exciting, inspired madman of fashion. His disgrace is tragic as he is a true genius of fashion. He is what makes fashion so fun to watch. Apparently this line that goes under his name is not even designed by him.  This  is apparent even if you are not that familiar with his work and that too is disappointing. All things considered, I really like these two looks whoever they came from.  There is a bit of apocalyptic freedom in them that I really enjoy and they look comfortable. I do wish Galliano would design his own line though.

k John Galliano

Anna Sui

I have always looked forward to seeing the collections of Madam Sui. We carried her line in the store and the day her collection would arrive was one filled with the delighted squeals of shop girls. Always bohemian and always rock and roll – you can count on that. This is an awesome group inspired by a 1920’s starlet which is a muse that is always dear to my heart. The leopard, the chinoiserie, the silks and the fringe!!! Oh my oh my! I wish we could still put in a big fat order as I would defiantly be taking a few pieces home for myself. I miss you Anna.

l Anna Sui comp

Ladies in Lace

Lace was a big deal this season and it came in many manifestations. Here are some of the best.

Alexandre Herchcovitch and Tadashi Shoji both had their own version of this demure and delicate lady in white lace. Both are stunning.

Lace

Luisa Beccaria

Almost evoking Alice in Wonderland, when I first saw this I thought Temperly London. It’s just so pretty.

m Luisa Beccaria

Marchesa

How cool is this? The way they treated the lace with the dye and the texture, it’s like a doll that has faded and been worn out from years of play. It tells such a romantic and mysterious story. I love that, there is art here.

Marchesa

Alberta Ferretti

These are just light and pretty and feminine and very editorial. The lace overlay on the layers of sheer netting(?) is lovely. There is a kind of Victorian nightgown, 1930’s film noir dressing gown thing happening that is irresistible. These will be beautiful in the campaign photographs. I see a dimly lit Italian parlor with models strewn over fainting couches looking forlorn and melancholy.

mm Alberta Ferretti

Valentino

Another showing featuring dramatic prints, elaborate details and exquisite craftsmanship. I mentioned in a previous post that these are truly collectable garments. These pieces will without question be in museums in the near and far future. What is happening in the house of Valentino is as close to ready to wear couture as you can get and it is amazing. Oh and the shoes – wow. Wow wow wow.

n Valentino n V3

Alexander McQueen

This collection immediately made me think of Arthur Rackham. It is dark and fanciful – a Goth girl just loves that kind of thing. The detail smacks of couture in the best way possible. These clothes are obviously not meant to be practical but Lee McQueen was sure to dismiss any notion that his house existed in order to be practical in his earliest of collections. His successor has surely done him proud in her continuation of the fantasy that he clearly loved and strove to manifest. Not an easy act to follow by any means ( how do you  follow a tortured artist??? ) but Sarah Burton seems to be the exact right protégée for the job.

o Alexander McQueen

Wendy Nichol

I don’t think we have featured this designer before but if there is more where this came from we are sure to feature her again! These two dresses in particular are so beautifully considered. They have been designed just to the point where one more detail would be too much. Seaming georgette (?) is a tricky task and can cause all kinds of pulling, shifting, throwing off the whole drape – altering lengths and on and on.  They have achieved something very special here in the way the dresses fit that is admiable and quite lovely. These are gorgeous gowns that wink at the 1930’s and the invention of the bias cut. They feel timeless – my favorite thing.

Wendy Nichol

Iris Van Herpen

This is the only look I pinned from this collection. Normally that wouldn’t warrant being included in the favorite looks of the season, however this dress stands out. It is so simple and fluid yet the fabric looks modern while also looking ethereal. It’s like part dressing gown part resort kaftan. I would love to style this with some long beaded necklaces in dark red or pyrite or even tourmaline…hmm. You see? It inspires the wearer to make it their own. You could go heavy or light, dress it up or down – heels, boots, sandals – the possibilities! So great – I love it even more.

www Iris van Herpen

Kaufmanfranco

These gowns are fitted perfectly. The proportions are exact. These each represent an updated version of an era – the first the 1970’s, the second the 1950’s and the 3rd the 1990’s.  Here you have three looks that speak of classic decadent glamour but with a contemporary feel. The beading and sequin are expertly handled resulting in elegance – which is not always easy when dealing in sparkle.  You must be young, you must be fit, you must be privileged to wear these gowns. Not gonna happen for most of us but wouldn’t it be sad if they stopped designing for the dream?

wwww Kaufmanfranco

Would love to hear your thoughts – agree or disagree, who did we miss, who should have been included? Comments are welcomed!

See you again for resort!


Men’s Fall 2014 Review

Men’s certianlly isn’t as fun as women’s. The more outrageous the Menswear the more silly it usually seems. Where with women’s outrageous can be art – the gateway to the next big trend and so on.  My take is that men’s should be real, should make the Man the best version of himself – whether that’s a rocker, a gentleman or a dandy for example. That in mind, here are the standouts from the Fall 2014 runways:

 

Belstaff

The quintessential Biker from whatever era – the best of all? This man wears only the finest. This is the top of the line for Leather and the styling is dead on.  Another great showing.

 

 

Belstaff

 Haider Ackerman

This is a total throwback to the 80’s for me. When I first saw this I flashed on Men without Hats – Safety Dance… anyone else? But then I realized, I don’t mind as a matter of fact these guys look  pretty cool in that, I don’t care I just threw this together way. Not for everyone, but I see the next hipster here.

Haider ackerman

 

Alexander McQueen

Another revival here. The rocker will like this and so will the hipster. It’s classic punk from the vantage of a suburban bedroom window. Familiar and comforting in a way, not to mention extremely high quality. If your looking for your last shredded sweater look no further! (anyone else see Nick Cage from Valley Girl?)

McQueen

Shoes

So lets take a break here and look at one of the accessories that are easiest for men. Shoes can do so much to an ensemble. They are often beloved by their owners when they find that perfect pair and for good reason. Shoes can notoriously say a lot about their wearer. Here are some cool characters we spotted this season.

Dolce & Gabanna

D & G

Saint Laurent, Prada, Bottega Veneta and  Thom Browne

shoes

Ralph Lauren

The Great Gatsby. This is simply beautiful. Lauren has clearly taken from the 30’s 3 piece here, which are my favorites because this is a man who is DRESSED. The collection also showed some nice looking clean casual pieces that make good solid staples in any man’s wardrobe.

 

ralph Lauren

Roberto Cavalli

Lets forget about the headbands here. That red jacket is such a standout and the snake print coat is so cool you should have to pass a coolness test to wear it. I don’t get the styling here at all, but who cares. Those 2 pieces are amazing.

Cavalli

Saint Laurent

So people have been going gaga over this new designer for Saint Laurent and I really honestly don’t get it. It’s derivative  and not really in a very successful way. Both the Men’s and Women’s lack polish and lack class. It all seems very sleazy and at the price you are paying that just doesn’t compute. So – yeah – I don’t get all the accolades. That all being said, these are Rocker clothes, and I cannot resist the rocker. Period.

St laurent

I think it’s obvious to see that many designers can’t put down that torch they have for the past. Many creative people began noticing the world in fine detail at the time of puberty. Whatever they saw at that crucial time has burned into their psyche the same way a first taste of rock and roll does to a musician – that Chuck Berry or The Beatles will always be an influence on thier style. Here we see it is no different for fashion. It’s probably the explanation for why fashion goes in 30 year cycles. As the preeminent designers at the time will likely be in their 30’s or 40’s doing throwbacks to their youth – making that era come alive all over again for a new crop of aspiring artists. SO are we doomed to repeat fashion over and over every 30 years? I don’t think doomed is the right word…

Certainly in Menswear, the classics are classic for good reason.