Tag Archives: Sacai

Fall 2018 RTW

The Collections were all over the place, which is great in the sense that there isn’t really any overbearing trend that everyone is following. It seems that designers are feeling that they can experiment more. Perhaps they are under the influence of the runaway success of Gucci and the emergence of the Maximalist movement? There were tons of techniques on display;  abstract silhouettes in New York, fabric manipulation through layering and patchworking in London, color and texture in Milan and in Paris you’d have thought everyone just pulled ideas out of hat. If you saw all the collections and your general takeaway was,”What the fuck was that?” you aren’t alone. It’s a bit of a mess out there and the designers really need to regain their focus and tighten it up. Experimenting is fun, and they have a lot of ideas but they can’t ignore that part of their job is to work those ideas into a single presentation through tough editing and refining. Fashion should do one or more of the following; challenge, provoke, titillate, intrigue or dazzle – it should not be confusing or make one wonder whether something was done on purpose. On the bright side there was quite an abundance of expression which feels like the start of a revolution. Can’t wait to see where they go from here.

Alice + Olivia

 I always look forward to seeing the collections from Alice yet am often left feeling like they just missed the mark. But not this season, this time it was just pure unadulterated fun. It was flashy and unashamed, full of frills and rhinestones and color, pattern, prints and shine, fantastic! It is inspiring me to be playful and dress up like the little girl in me wishes I would. And how badly do I want those striped sequins boots?!? Badly. Very badly.

 

No.21

Clothes for the alternative girl that makes you wonder where does she get her clothes? In my experience she’s usually the girlfriend of one of my boyfriends friends and she’s not actually that cool but she has this style that is impossible to pin down. It’s not goth, but its gothy, not grunge but she’s grungy, not punk but there’s a note of it in there and not rockabilly but her hair totally is and the cat eye glasses she always wears… It’s that  eclecticism which is built in to this collection.  Now you can go out and purchase that cultivated wardrobe all in one place, (not over years of scouring thrift stores, cherry picking oddball pieces from friends, even occasionally splurging on a new item from that cheeky little shop in SOHO like she did). It’s kind of sad in a way, that a designer can appropriate a personal style – even if she’s an amalgam. But I guess that’s what many designers do now that I think about it. Hmm….epiphany.

 

For Restless Sleepers

I love this designer. The colors and prints are sumptuous as well as the fabrics and draping. It’s like dessert…before bed.

 

Max Mara

This collection had wearable clothes for either the cool girl or the chic lady, which is hard to do in one outing but here it is. The leopard pencil skirts, long coats and camel staples could go either way and were styled to just walk the line between either customer. Pretty savvy from a marketing perspective. And being Max Mara you know it will be well cut and fit with quality fabrics and craftsmanship. Something for everyone here.

Coach 1941

The wooing of the hipsters continues to be in full swing at the house of Coach 1941. This time it was by way of a 1970’s hippie shaman vibe. There was Native American inspired topstitching and fringe that led nicely into the patchworked leather looks of the 70’s. Not typically my taste on either account but it was fun and felt different from what everyone else is doing – though there are many doing a 70’s revival, AGAIN. This was a fresh take and offered up some modern vintage feeling pieces that are covetable.

Simone Rocha

This collection is fascinating in its layering and play with silhouette. There is no shortage of things to look at and each look feels more like a composition than an outfit. It may not seem avant garde upon first look but there are definite moments where this is forward thinking and pushing beyond the norm. I especially love the printed/embroidered sheer fabric layered over the printed silks where the effect is 3 dimensional. There are also interesting choices in putting the dresses over the coats yet still styling them as wearing dresses and putting necklaces (crossbody necklaces) which are so cool and reminiscent of the English royal garb with their regal sashes and adornments. Overall this collection has a pomp and extravagant quality mixed with a street and almost punk attitude which is very much in the style of Vivianne Westwood and I dig it.

 

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce and Gabbana are the Chanel of Italy. You can count on seeing variances of the corset dress in the same way you can count on the seeing Chanel suit. It is a perennial item in every collection and has solidified the idea of sexy when you think Italian fashion. There is always color, they are always bold and the accessories are a whole universe unto themselves. This world. is. defined. and continues to be exciting and inspiring every time we get a chance to glimpse it.


Rochas

Am I the only one who always get Rochas and Rodarte confused? They both always bring color and extravagance to the table but Rochas definitely brings the sophistication that (sorry) Rodarte is sometimes lacking. This collection had such a beautiful color palette; deep navy blue, rich celadon green, pale blush pink, gold, plum, and raspberry. I love these colors together and they played off each other brilliantly. The addition of glittering embellishments in floral motifs made the whole collection feel like it had a touch of otherworldly magic. Just lovely.

J.Mendel

So there was a lot of fur in this collection. We’re not ethically on board with fur but the collection was beautiful. Luxe fabrics draped expertly gave an overall feeling of opulence. There were some embellishments that took away from the elegance here and there (like feather hemlines and what looked like sheepdog fur trims, ick) but the long gowns were stunning and I suspect we might see a few at this years Oscars.

Oscar de la Renta

I cannot express how much I love what is happening over at the house of Oscar. It’s akin to the rekindling of spirit that is happening at another great house, Dior. These new designers,  Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia are doing such a beautiful and respectful job of reinterpreting the integrity, the grace, elegance and sense of absolute refinement that these houses were built on. This collection is another in recent seasons where there are old-fashioned techniques and classic silhouettes being reimagined for the modern woman who is seeking elegance.  She has the money to wear the best and she radiates sophistication. I love this. CONTEMPORARY ELEGANCE! At last!


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Pre Fall 2018

This new frontier of showing collections is driving me crazy. Used to be there was a set schedule of when the collections would roll out so you’d know when to check the postings of the shows. Fashion weeks dictated the blocks of time, you could count on Fall fashion to be over a series of 3-4 weeks; New York, Paris, London,  Milan etc. Now with so many designers showing off runway, through lookbooks, galleries or private events, it’s anything goes. Fall can show anytime of year – same with Resort, Pre-Fall, Spring and so on until I’m not sure what season I’m looking at until I read the fine print. Not to mention running the risk of missing something incredible because I wasn’t checking in that day. Hopefully soon there will be a resolution to create some order amongst the chaos because I cannot be the only one who feels they may be missing out and certainly the designers cannot afford to be missed! The result I’m afraid is a rather patchy group of blog posts, where I may have missed some, or posted too early for others, leaving me only the option of adding updates to posts as necessary. SO all that being said, here is Pre Fall 2018!

 

Ermanno Scervino

There are two personas that resonate with me here, the ultra feminine, lacy, floaty dresses and the punk rock leopard and plaid. They have somehow combined the two and added in a military nod for good measure and come up with one kooky collection. I cant say I really get what they are going for, perhaps duality? I’m sure they have a whole explanation but it’s not entirely clear from the outside. It does however have some pieces that I love including almost all of those girly dresses and overcoats.

Sacai

This collection was striking. Each look was a collage of fabrics and prints, texture and shape. They garments have been arranged as if the designer had pieces that he was moving about until he found the right balance – always asymmetric. The eye is forced to move the way it would looking at a piece art with excellent composition.

Michael Kors

I am a fan of the rose print. Not gonna lie, especially when it’s mixed with an animal print. The lengths here are also right on, leaving a blurred line between day and evening which for sportwear is key.

 

Andrew GN

I look forward to seeing what GN is going to bring to the table each season. My favorite collections are always the ones with the heavy ethnic reference. Much like the former incarnation of Valentino in the early 2010’s there is always a sort of Russian doll or Eastern European traditional costume element in the clothes that I find kinda irresistible. It’s the modern take of either the traditional sihlouette; like a peasant sleeve or a print; like this oversized rose here as a lace applique – that feels like an honoring of cultures long past. A connecting of generations, a respect for tradition in a disposable fast fashion world.

Delpozo

First of all – STYLING! The styling of this collection is so wonderfully fantastical and reminiscent of classic painted portraiture. Does this creative styling make me like the clothes more…YES, yes it does. Give that photographer a raise. This collection isn’t really what you’d normally find on our page. But its undeniably good. The color story is playful and charming while also managing to be sophisticated. The shapes are structured yet soft and feminine. The contrast isn’t just in the dynamic pallette, but in the fabrications and silhouettes. So maybe this is our style after all, we do love a clever contrast.

Sachin & Babi

This is clean and modern feeling despite all the sequin and fringe. There is a hero in the styling here, where the modern is played up through hair and accessories making the clothes feel more sophisticated and elegant. The killer here has to be the white topped sleeveless gown with the embellishments. Perfect balance of modern utilizing the geometric shape and glamour with those deep colored stone embellishments. Stunning, a best piece of the season.

Oscar De La Renta

I love what is happening at La Renta, there is a definite honoring of the house and it’s done with such vision! There are modern cuts and shapes in modern fabrics that express both grace, elegance and a little humor. This is exactly how a modern version of a classic house should be run. Follow the original ideals while always moving them forward. The tulle dresses are charming and the separates are high style sophisticate. Love!

Christian Dior

I am loving the new design direction at Christian Dior. This is the first time since Galliano that the line has been so memorable. This particular collection feels distinguished – as Dior ought to be – and yet youthful. This time there is a touch of that 1960’s London, Mary Quaint style, in the shoes and caps. It’s youthful but in a retro way which is refreshing as most designers appeal to the party girl youthmarket via slick party dresses and overt sexiness. Dior here, feels fresh and bright while retaining a sense of dignity.