I didn’t even bother to do a review of Couture last season because there were so few offerings and of them not enough favorites to warrant a post. Typically Fall has more players and also more looks per show, so this time around we are in business! Here are the favorites from Fall 2017.
Iris van Herpen
How cool is this? It makes me think of 3D printing. Art in fashion goes hand in hand with couture and this is such a beautiful expression of line and form.
This is the show I look forward to the most during couture. They have always been a couture titian because they lean toward the artistic side while still being wearable. There is always a nod to surrealism which somehow goes hand in hand with couture in my mind. Perhaps because its such an easy transition from surreal to avant garde which also seems to find an outlet in couture. It was Picasso who was honored this time around which was not as interesting to me but I’m sure will find an audience with the buyers. It also features some beautiful an unexpected color combinations like this burnt orange and burgundy. And I loved the addition of the ultra sheer, net opera gloves. This group did not have as many of the exciting surrealist moments but I still enjoyed the masterly crafted gowns and moments of artistic expression when they came.
There is something happening over at Dior that is silently exciting. Its been a real snooze over there ever since the ousting of Galliano but in the last few seasons a new designer has taken the helm and is slowly breathing life back into the line. The clothes are reserved and not flashy at all which is why I say, “silent” there is nothing loud here. It’s all very graceful and elegant, sophisticated and refined. It’s beautiful and I’m so excited to see more and more. These full skirted coats are an affectionate nod to classic Dior. Dior was all about playing up the feminine while maintaining grace. These full coats have graceful movement and feminine sensibilities which makes them perfect. These are going to start a big trend over the next few seasons. There were many other reworked looks from the archives including the epic petal ball gown from the 1950’s shown here in grays with ruffles rather than beads, not a success for me but the reference is distinct. There are also pinched waists in fitted jackets and draped, off shoulders here and there. So much respect for the history of the house which I love to see. It’s not so much about some new hot shot designer as it is revitalizing the integrity of a revered and beloved label. I suspect Dior will be the new Bellwether now that Valentino has run out of steam.