Tag Archives: Tom Ford

Mens Fall 2019

Coats. There is an abundance of fantastic Coats. I can say there is at least one from each collection listed below I would kill for – and in several case many more than just one. You see a fantastic coat is the best investment (if your climate requires) because often times you wear it more than any other piece in your wardrobe. Many times it will be the only part of an outfit the world will see – therefore making the importance of its statement (of lack therof) even more so. This abundance of fantastic coats is no doubt the result of the epic shift we have seen happen in the last 2 years in menswear where for the first time in the mainstream womenswear is influencing menswear. About time really as menswear has been assisting the ladies since the 1920’s! Up until recently, rock and roll was the only place a guy could find outrageous togs – but now there are velvet and sequins and lace and satin, glitter and glam and embroidery and beading, color and print and texture across the board. It’s a good time to be a guy.

Ami

I like this because I could see myself dressing like this as a man. The 3/4 narrow coats in plaid speak to my affinity for 1950’s era London Fog staples. The pants come both pegged or wide – depending on your mood.  The creeper toed shoes that harken back to and go well with the zoot suit-y wallet chain that I still like the look of despite its past as a played out trend from the 1990’s. All in all I like the exaggerated length when its long, and the exaggerated width when its slouchy and the overall feeling of comfort. These clothes look as comfortable as they look cool. How I aspire to be.

Junya Watanabe

I like these Frankenstein jackets, a lot. We’ve seen the leather sleeves thing before but I can’t recall seeing the same treatment among the tweeds and the bomber jacket. Such a simple idea yet it looks so clever. It’s practically punk in it’s DYI.

Neil Barrett

There is a definite Rock and Roll thing happening over at the house of B and you know I cannot resist any genuine respect for the culture of rockers. They were the first ones to legitimize outrageous dressing and freedom from gender barriers. These clothes are nothing new but they are nicely made and built to last. So if you are looking for a long term old school punk rock piece that you can live in then here’s your chance. That plaid coat with the leopard collar would be my personal choice!

Etro

Etro has always been a favorite because they have built a brand based on colorful patterns and diverse textures. They skillfully mix and play with pattern and texture in a way that is inspiring. Here they do it again – just as they always have. Some standouts are guess what … the Coats! There are some beauties here, my favorite being the blue butterfly on the fair fellow.  Where many houses are trying to apply this technique to keep up with the trends set by brands like Gucci and ACNE – Etro already masters it. It must be gratifying for them to see their aesthetic become all the rage so they can really shine.

Tom Ford

Ford delivers again in his promise to personally dress all the men of the world as suave motherfuckers. This is to say, in his own image. All the suits are tailored to perfection and come in luxurious fabrics from rich textured wools to eye catching shiny silks. Some beautifully considered leather jackets are added this season in classic black and white, I’m certain they are the finest leathers available. When I think of Tom Ford I think of dashing men checking their cuffs with a tug and giving a knowing wink.

Dolce and Gabbana

This collection felt very 1930’s which was a transitional time in mens fashion. The pants were loose yet tailored, the suits were getting flashy and there was a feeling of whimsy. This collection has charming touches of art deco in the velvet suit collars and polo sweaters (the game not the collar). Then there are the quintessential D&G hallmarks of brocade and glitter – there was so much sequins in this show it brought a tear to my eye.  I’m not sure how many men would wear a sequin coat (god bless them bc they should!) but I know a hell of a lot of women, myself included who would kill for these patterned sequin jackets and coats and sweaters… The costume element is strong – perhaps a bit too strong but there are always collectible and covetable pieces that can be found among the pomp and circumstance. (emerald green striped and sequin velvet smoking jacket? Yes please!) And as always the shoes and accessories are phenomenal!

Ann Demeulemeester

If the idea in fashion is to take a bit of whats trending and sprinkle it over your aesthetic in order to stay current is the key then Demeulemeester has got it all figured out. There has been a turn toward punk and grunge revival lately and obviously houses like Brunello Cucinelli or Armani aren’t going to even try to hop on that one, but if you are Demeulemeester and you already have a foot in that door then why not? This season they have moved seamlessly (sorry) from the previous seasons pirate/18th century poet to pirate/punk rocker. The button cuff pant is still here but feels less costume when paired with the high ankle boot and the draping shirts feel less dramatic with a long jacket. It all really works here.

Alexander McQueen

You can always count on McQueen to outshine all the others.  Here we see exquisitely tailored suits in bright flower prints and oversize plaids which are a standard for Burton. Among boxy cut leathers and painterly prints she sneaks in a few choice lace print patterns that seem to speak toward those lace curtains you’d find at your Mom’s house. The last few coats with the beaded wings are breathtakingly beautiful and the final chandelier jackets are art pieces. Standout McQueen – you simply cannot do any less.

Advertisements

Mens Spring 2019

 

There seem to be two major trends happening on the menswear runways: 1. Activewear as sportswear 2. Womens inspired menswear. Neither of these are some big revelation as activewear has been encroaching on sportwear for a while now, but now it seems to have solidified its presence to where you can no longer find a sportswear collection that doesn’t include trainers and a puffy jacket… or 10. The colors are brighter, the fabrics are direct from the gym and the accessories are literal (duffel bags anyone?) Almost directly in contrast to this is the movement to bring womenswear for the men. We are seeing details as subtle as nipped in waists on jackets and as extreme as full on gowns with corsets. Women have been stealing from mens’ wardrobes since the 1920’s so why did it take so long for men to steal from them? In any case credit to the designers who can do it without looking lazy, as in, just put a boy in a dress. Those that borrow elements and use them thoughtfully have the most success in my opinion. Like Ann Demeulemeester, or Alexander McQueen – both who have made our very short list for favorites from the Mens Spring 2019 collections…

Tom Ford

I don’t think that Tom Ford’s reputation as a stylish MF has ever been up for debate. He can cut a suit that will stand out as the coolest, slickest, most expensive looking fellow in the room. By deftly using classic silhouettes and timeless fabrics he manages to make clothes that defy an era. They simultaneously subscribe to and transcend the 1950’s beetle era, the 1960’s jazz era, the 1970’s studio 54 era, the 80’s wall street – nineties mod, 2000’s hipster and on. Any of these suits would look just as sharp attending any of the parties in any of the hippest, most exclusive, most enviable homes in the hills of wherever, the penthouse of whatever. Timeless and of all times.

Yohji Yamamoto

It’s not often that I would describe menswear as beautiful. This collection by Yamamoto was just that. The clothes were fluid and thoughtfully draped to wear together.  The pieces with the screened florals were such a lovely contrast against the bleak darkness of the solid black. The pairing with leather and printed leather were just cool and had a bit of modern edge to an otherwise dreamy poetic collection.

Dries Van Noten

I absolutely always vibe with the colors used by Dries Van Noten. When I was obsessed with dusty colors against deep tones he validated me. (see it here on the old blog)

Currently I am obsessed with navy and deep greens against yellow and burnt orange, throw in some fuchsia and cherry red and now we’re talking! This collection goes a bit over wearable for mens though, in that the use of the bright color and the bold pattern can get a bit cartoonish – clownish even. I prefer seeing muted tones in the patterns and bright colors used as solids or as an accent.

Ann Demeulemeester

True to form Ann Demeulemeester has delivered another romantic collection for the modern day brooding poet. This time with a hint of beekeeper. The clothes as always are fluid and layered, gauzy and silky in an array of whites on black and minimal accent colors. This time a pale yellow and soft pink. The best bits are the pieced in satin stripe or lace details in the jackets making them unique and delightfully unisex. Lace for a man is particularly difficult to pull off but I don’t think anyone has come closer to doing it than here.  The lace sleeves still read as masculine on these jackets due to the broad cut and padding of the shoulder. Daresay sexy and not in a Prince wearing lace kind of overt way and more in a confident in his masculinity way. Nice

 

Alexander McQueen

OK this collection killed it. The mashup of a nerdy, straight-laced, dapper fellow with the edgy, tough guy and conceptual artist is brilliantly executed. Bringing together these personalities in one collection is an excellent representation of just what McQueen menswear is all about. There is always an element of punk, always a connection to nature and art through beauty and always the clothes are rooted by the bespoke nature of Saville row in London. It’s as if Burton has dissected these parts and shown them to us here, to say here are our split personalities because no-one is only one thing. It’s finding that balance of all our sides that makes us unique.

 


Spring 2015

The collections for Spring 2015 didn’t really speak to me. I was looking for some 90’s era, grunge floral dresses mixed with bohemian layered lightweight separates. I hoped to see chinoiserie inspired prints and loads of color. Once again there were showings of entire white collections, entire black collections, beige, neutral etc. Though not what I was looking forward to – there were some great looks among those pallid palettes that I had to include. Not many designers were tapped into my frequency this season but thankfully there were a few.

Bottega Veneta

Being a cardigan kind of gal from way back it’s hard to pass these up. Effortless is always chic and it’s pretty clear why when you check out the styling here.

1 Bottega Veneta

Haider Ackermann

Now definitely a favorite designer. The styling is so important here yet it’s only as successful as the drape and proportion. The clothes are all cut to the exact right length to layer agreeably. The result is dialed in perfectly. This shade of pink was a color pick from Spring 2013 – still a favorite.

 1 Haider Ackermann

Etro

So here are some prints and some boho. More southwest than what I like for sure but Etro always does such an impressive job of layering prints. There are pieces in here, the white jacket, the blue button front dress the floaty skirt and the top of the white dress…These are all pieces you could work into a wardrobe and they look like things that would feel great to wear on a warm spring day. They evoke a feeling of Springtime. That’s probably what I like the most here.

2 Etro

Anna Sui

This is more what I was hoping for. The Asian inspired prints, the floaty fabrics and girly yet rock and roll attitude. (The boots are stellar.)

3 Anna Sui !

St. Laurent

I’m realizing as I’m clicking through the St Laurent Collection that I’m having a hard time with the head to toe looks – and a better response to the detail images. I suppose because head to toe they look like costumes from some low budget 70’s film starring Debbie Harry and Marc Bolan. It’s so damned derivate – it’s almost 70’s punk plagiarism. In fact I think that’s exactly what it is. A totally intact time capsule – a time machine for the hipster fashionistas of the now. They love this shit. Despite my condemnation I admit once again that he’s got me with some of this. I cannot turn my back on rock and roll so yes, I’d take a piece or two (or five)  here and there. It is straight up fashion victims who will wear this as shown – God help all those “it” girls to have some perspective.

3 St Laurent

Temperly London

I love the 1920 / 1930’s nod to nightgowns here. The colors, the fabrics, the rhinestones. It’s Hollywood glamour. I’d wear the dress with a cropped sharp blazer for evening or a shrunken leather jacket for day. The short robe over a beater and jeans, the sheer robe over a graphic slip dress or a camisole and cigarette pants. So much fun could be had with these pieces. I love them.

3 Temperly London 1

Ermanno Scervino

These work for different reasons. The shorts are cool because they look like 1930’s tap shorts – a little cheeky (no pun intended) and a little sparkly. The dress looks ethereal while still looking modern ,(two typically opposing distinctions) and the frosted sleeves of that beautifully draped jacket are just serious magpie bait. That is all.

5 Ermanno Scervino

Tory Birch

I love that this is linen, that it is simple and most of all that it has a big fucking sparkly feather across the front. Totally impractical but I like it anyway.

5 Tory birch

Alberta Ferretti

More nightgown inspired dresses. I will always include these despite how many times I see them because they will always represent the classic romanticism that we need from time to time. It cannot all be modern – it just can’t.

6 Alberta Ferretti

Mary Katrantzou

This was a really cool collection inspired very literally by the ocean. I love the intricate and beautifully crafted details. The colors are so soft and feminine yet hit with that contrast of black…stunning. The pleats and the lace, and sheers over the prints – love love love.

6 Mary Katrantzou 1

Diane Von Furstenburg

This. The chinoiserie I was hoping for. This coat is flawless. The fit through the shoulder is so soft and clean, the collar is just right, the length, the nipped in waist. Perfect. Love!

7 DVF

 Undercover

Hieronymus Bosch.  I would be surprised if every art student hadn’t had a love affair with the works of Bosch when they first discovered him. His fantastical creatures, disturbing and glorious yet depicted so storybook-like. He was truly connected to a dream though his hands. The images once seen stay forever with the viewer. When I saw this collection roll out I got increasing excited because what a challenge to tackle.  If you are going to dare to involve such a beloved artists’ work with your own you really take a huge risk. This could have gone in so many directions… Ultimately I think they took a tame perspective and it works. They paid tribute to the fantasy and the beauty without making it inaccessible.

8 Undercover

Dolce & Gabanna 

When I first became a fan of Dolce & Gabanna I was a fashion obsessed pre teen. It was the 1990’s and they were running their Chelsea Girls inspired ad campaign. I was hooked immediately and I have not been anble to free myself from their grip ever since – nor would I care to.

c4e9934437bbf8bae4ebe05d85cccbdb

1992 Ad Campaign

This collection is like a touchstone. It has elements of all the things that I have loved them for over all these years. The corsets, the religion, the Italian heroine, all topped with crowns! This is so the epitome of Dolce & Gabanna. Glorious!

9 D & G 1 9 D & G 2 9 D & G 3 9 D & G 4

Gareth Pugh

These three looks are sophisticated, startling, and evocative. I dream of seeing that harlequin dress spin. It is my favorite dress of the season.

10 Gareth Pugh

Tom Ford

Wow.

If those are indeed sheer and sequin striped jeans on the first model then just show me where to pay. Why are these not a staple? Like blue jeans or leather pants?? Best pants of the year – hands down. The coat also modern and cool and billowy and sexy and yes please. And yesssssss – black sequin cape ensemble!?!? Killing me!! Rock and Roll meet drama! Hooray!

10 Tom FOrd

Lanvin

Dragon Print Pants and Snakeskin bag. Boom.

11 lanvin

Gucci

Chinoiserie! Thank you Gucci for answering my prayer. And not just Chinoisere, ohhh nooo – they did beaded, mixed patterns chinoiserie. They did femme fatale disco chinoiserie! YES! This is so fantastic – I’m sure Ana Sui is dying over these… They are GEORGOUS!

12 Gucci 1

Erdem

I have heard (on Project Runway from Nina Garcia) that green is the worst selling color in fashion. Considering how flattering it is that surprises me. How could this green be a hard sell I wonder?

I love seeing the Asian inspiration of course, not to mention the floaty feminine draping and delicate details – all shown in colorful prints. These dresses are lovely – just what I was hoping for.

13 Erdem

~Sidebar~

So I couldn’t help but notice that Valentino is heavily influencing designers. The silhouette and exotic peasant persona that they single handedly introduced seasons ago has trickled down to so many other collections. Here are just a few that cannot be disputed…

Tadashi Shoji, Erdem and Honor


14 Val Rip

Valentino

The pinnacle. They are still so far ahead of everyone else here. They continued to use traditional cultural prints. Here they have evolved from the previous eastern European style to more of a Spanish? I can’t put my finger on it but it’s charming yet graphic and the colors are perfect. Then the move to the mystical ocean theme? I’m not sure how they got from one to the other but when you are showing  79 looks you can tell a hell of a long story. The coral painted jacket is surprisingly elegant. The embellished dresses are like stunning costumes from a glamorous old movie. They defy an era.  Classic Beauty. They have done it again.

Valentino 1 Valentino 7 Valentino 8

I have been furiously pinning from Pre Fall and it seems there are a lot of the bohemian looks I was hoping to see in Spring. Until then though – check us out on Pinterest. See you soon, Cheers!!