Tag Archives: Ulyana Sergeenko

Couture 2015

Here we are again between Pre Fall and the blitzkrieg that is Fall. The notorious Couture shows in all their decadent glory. Not much I can say that I haven’t said before so lets just jump right on in.

Elie Saab

Couture is at the core of Elie Saab. The collection had many beautiful offerings worthy of adoration but this one stood out. The choice of the soft dove gray made it feel antique without looking like a doily. It is sexy and demure at the same time somehow, which is so intriguing. I love the handkerchief drape from the waist, how it carries the top down through the gown. It’s so delicate that it’s angelic. Lovely.

Elie Saab

Alexis Mabille

Okay, so yes the first dress is a bit Beauty Pageant with the sequins and the sweetheart neckline but hear me out. That gather in the center at the waist is very dynamic, it takes the taste level and the elegance to where the inventor of sequin probably intended. Get that lady on the phone ’cause she needs to see this. The second dress is Madame Butterfly dramatic. I love the fit and flare of the skirt with the almost casual drape of the neckline. I do wish the collar was a bit more narrow but it’s couture! They can fix that for you Madame! The sleeves are all drama and the colors are head turners. I’m sure the fashion police would tear this to shreds but I cannot resist the impact of those bright flowers and that huge scarlet lined sleeve.

Alexis Mabille

Ulyana Sergeenko

This is so – dare I say it? FUN. I usually hate when people use “Fun” as a verb but I am stuck here. These are just costume enough to be kitschy, and just real enough to be remarkable. I see Dita Von Tease.

 These are modern day Costume, albeit in the way that fashion is referred to historically as costume. They may not be modern but they are definitely charming and whimsical and yes, fun. All things that are absolutely appropriate for the genre of Couture.

Ulyana Sergeenko

Schiaparelli

 The collection as a whole harkens back to the days when continental women of means would go to their (design) house of choice to have their wardrobe created for the season. Can you image being able to go your favorite designer to have your measurements taken, then asked what your plans were for the season??

Oh a weekend at a friend’s château in the south of France followed by a month at the Paris apartment. A 2 week tour of Egyptian ruins, then a quick jaunt over to the Swiss Alps to visit my aunt at her Chalet… la de dah.

This feels like it has been designed for a charming, quirky yet cosmopolitan lady of leisure. Dare to Dream. You see – this is what couture is meant to do. This collection takes you there.

Schiaparelli

This green dress in particular is the one that everyone would remember. It’s the type of dress that you hand down to your daughters, generation after generation. It’s fantastic.

Schiaparelli 2

Valentino

These first two Valentino gowns in Velvet are very simple and very perfect. A simple couture gown should live forever, these will do that.

Valentino 1

I love the heavy traditional ethnic embroideries, especially on the boots where it is more unexpected. This is very much in the vain of the new Valentino where ethnic is the new modern. The colorful embroideries on the first look are what you can call bang for your buck . By definition “Couture” is hand sewn, if all that embroidery is hand sewn I cannot imagine how long it must have taken to complete. The result then is truly a work of very expensive folk art.

The second dress with the lace hearts is fascinating somehow. The lightness is intriguing and the lacework is truly spectacular.

The boots are killers and I am certain we will see knock offs of “embroidered” boots all over the market soon. It’s pretty remarkable that Valentino has managed to make something as demure as embroidery so egdy and yeah, cool.

Valentino

Zuhair Murad

…aaaand the Oscar goes to…

The little girl in me who wanted to be a “muse” after I first saw Xanadu squealed when I saw these. Not that they look like anything from that which is one of the best rollerskating mythos based 80’s movies of all time….But that these are gowns that are to be worn by this mytical creature. These are ethereal, twinkly, provocative, goddess gowns for the ages. Oh yeah, and the last look…its pants. Someone call Kate Hudson! Oh my God.

Only Couture ; )

Zuhair Murad

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Fall 2014 Couture Review

Its a well known fact that couture has suffered in the last few decades. The glorious wealth that was the lifeblood of the houses has dwindled dramatically. Those houses that have continued to offer a couture collection do so cautiously and as a result couture is no longer the showcase it once was. Sure there have always been elegant sophisticated offerings but historically couture represented the high art of fashion.  The evolution has been of the fittest and we have seen the shows become more for the clients and less for the designer. Sad for the artists but good for the investor.  It seems that the transition from fantasy to reality has changed the perception a bit as well. At least for myself who now sees a couture purchase as a commitment and an investment.  More so than ever, it is about truly outstanding garments that do one or both of the following things: Make a statement and Encapsulate a persona.

Giambattista Valli

Old Hollywood meet young Hollywood. It’s not often where you see clothes that would work on such different types as Rihanna and Cate Blanchett – but here they are. This is “Hollywood” in the most flattering meaning possible. These are Lucille Ball by the pool in her heyday or Claudette Colbert gliding into 21 for dinner with her latest producer. I love this. Gorgeous!

Giambattista Valli

Elie Saab

Saab always shows red carpet gowns and dresses in both couture and Ready to Wear. He has it down to a science and is instantly recognizable by any in the know. This dress however is practically a departure from the beaded intricate looks for which he is known. This ombre firecracker is stunningly simple, dramatic, sophisticated and daring.  Normally I would shy away from something as telling of an era like ombre, (which could end up being the synthesizer of fashion trends) but here it is done with such subtlety that it looks natural. Lovely.

Elie Saab

Ulyana Sergeenko

German Bombshell. This is like if Disney did a spy thriller. Totally dramatic, totally sexy, pure fantasy. Modern Day Garbo with just the right amount of edge. The fetish folks will dig it, the Retro Girls will covet it and the glamourous will applaud it. Someone call Dita Von Tease!

Ulyana Sergeenko

Armani Prive

Speaking of fetish right? There seems to be an element of the underground being celebrated in this collection. The fishnet swing coat and rhinestone encrusted netting are so elevated here that they almost slip under the radar. The result is a suspiciously kinky and sexy story from the usually tame Armani. Not a beige in the bunch nor a pastel to be seen.  And those shoes – the shoes are devastating! Such a great interpretation. It’s wonderful to see this genre being given an elegant treatment.

Armani Privé

Dior

I will never look at Dior with the googly eyes I had for them when it was designed by Galliano – no matter what he was an incredible creative.  That being said, I can almost see his influence (at long last) creeping in with the addition of these frock coats. Perhaps someone over there is looking into the archives? Nonetheless, these coats – the fantastical frocks and the practical navy’s, are great. They hold their own despite not really seeming to belong to the same collection. Maybe the frock coats are just an example of the evolution which led to the modern navy looks on the left? I’m not sure the path but the outcome offers some lovely, totally chic staples. That first coat is so solid and so necessary that it’s like a smack in the forehead.  And the second – there is so much personality in that coat that you don’t even need the girl.

Dior

Valentino

Couture! This is what it is all about. Range.

This collection has the clean modern looks on which you would be confidant spending thousands of dollars. This white off shoulder is so thoughtfully cut that you can see they knew just how to get out of the way that fabric. One of the hardest things in design is to just let the medium speak – let it become it’s most beautiful manifestation without complicating it to satisfy your ego.

Valentino 1

Then there are the fantasy looks – the dreamy romantics you hope to see gliding down the runways so you can sigh longingly at the beauty.

Valentino 2

Finally they wrap it up with this stellar intricately beaded and encrusted gown that just leaves you breathless. This is couture.  Stand up and applaud – this is the real deal.

Valentino 3

As always feedback would be appreciated 😉

Until next time – Cheers!